good mechanic

[cookiedough]

finally found a shop local who does tires, suspension, and brake pads/rotors mostly.  Only charges 50 bucks an hour and to do the rear rotors/pads only charged me 75 bucks labor.  Plus, the same Carquest rotors/pads as I could get thru Carquest, he passed on some of the discount he gets from them onto me as well saving me another 10 bucks.   For basically 86 bucks extra, well worth my time to NOT fiddle with them any longer myself. 

The previous auto shop I went to for brakes/rotors was 80 per hour about 4 years ago, now they charge 120 per hour - NO thanks. 

Hard to find good local honest auto shops nowadays without breaking the bank.  Should be set on 2 cars now for next 60K miles or longer.  Other car he charged me 90 labor since knew the rear rotors had to remove the lower rear swing arm and rear shock bolt in order to remove the rear brake caliper one bolt - dumb design.  I do not mind doing it myself, but time is limited now on weekends since winter is coming.

[Robert]

While I'm glad you found someone you can work with, I hope that its not a case that you get what you pay for. Most dealers are anywhere between 150. to 225. an hour. Audi is at 289, Bentley at 375, Porsche at 275, and most shops are anywhere between 135, to 175 an hour. 
 

[cookiedough]

While I'm glad you found someone you can work with, I hope that its not a case that you get what you pay for. Most dealers are anywhere between 150. to 225. an hour. Audi is at 289, Bentley at 375, Porsche at 275, and most shops are anywhere between 135, to 175 an hour.  
 

yah a mfg. car dealer is around 120 to 150 hr around here to go to and so far have never used them for anything mfg. related outside of warranty.  This independent small shop unbeknown to me is in nearby town right off the main square of the city and has been doing this for about 30 years he said.  I peeked inside and only like 2 service bays sharing one garage door so mom/pop shop.  

I brought once my other older car into my hometown YOUNG age 23 guy whom I know in town neighbor kid down the street went to school with my kids, starting up his own shop outside of town for what I thought a somewhat simple front strut and sway bar link change.  Got it back and instant LOUD RATTLE over every bump.  He forgot to tighten up VERY loose one sway bar link bolt was barely on.  Could not figure it out drove it like that 1 full day before had to raise BOTH front tires off the ground to get the sway bar link to SHAKE SHAKE loosely very jiggly.  Called him up ASAP to fix it right, tighten the darn bolts - geesh...  Not going back there again.

The VERY few times in my life (under 10 times) I have had my oil changed at a car mfg. dealer who is usually higher priced, screw up simple oil changes either overfilling or making a mess or forgetting to put on the plastic skid plate covers. So, not always the case of get what you pay for, car dealer service bays for simple oil changes can be no good either.

[Robert]

So, not always the case of get what you pay for, car dealer service bays for simple oil changes can be no good either.

All of it,  so true.

[cookiedough]

So, not always the case of get what you pay for, car dealer service bays for simple oil changes can be no good either.

All of it,  so true.

yah, am HOLDING my breath at my local Toyota dealer for my 2021 near new tundra recall on power steering unit replacement under a recall.  Apparently the mfg. claims about 3 months worth had bad power steering units that could leak fluid out somehow or fail having no power steering.  Apparently it is a 5 hour project to replace.  Getting recall done the 15th at a Toyota dealer.  I hope I do not loose power steering AFTER they are done or develop a leak AFTERwards since has been fine past 6000 miles since new.   Why Toyota would change things up the last model year that design was built since 2007 is beyond any common sense to me on why?