A suggestion on Valve Stems

[Glaserbeam]

This BikeMaster angled metal valve stem works really well in the confined space in Valkyrie wheels. Very solid, so you don't have to hold the back of the stem when using the air chuck. My original rubber valve stem ripped at the base while I was riding 65 mph+ on the highway ... luckily the tire didn't lose all its air till I got to my exit.  If you don't have a metal valve stem, you should replace the rubber one every time you change your tire ... my local bike shop didn't do that last time ...

p.s. I see Jess from VA recommended this particular metal valve stem in 2020.

[gordonv]

I also bought the same for my 1st Vakyrie, but have never installed it (wrote the bike off).

Since then, most have gone with the solid replacement stem, instead of that expensive billeted one.

Many post on the subject.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/myers-90%C2%B0-tubeless-chrome-valve-stem-p

$2.50 each, and they used to have a no shipping sale a few times a year, so wait for one, and buy extras. Good giveaways.

[Willow]

Your link shows the right angle stem which is the same as I use (and distribute) but it also shows the 45 degree angled one on the "other" display.

I get mine from patchboy.com.  They are the same price that yours displays.  I do prefer the ones with the nut on the inside for appearance sake.  I know many are scared that will loosen but mine don't.

Yes, everyone should convert to steel stems.  They're more dependable than OEM and less expensive.

[Jess from VA]

Different companies make them than when I got mine, but as far as I know they are all well made billet aluminum with rubber Orings against leakage.

They lay flat on the wheel and are super sturdy (and reliable).

However, to orient them to the high side of the bike (both front and rear) (the right), you have to cut the T's off the Valk wheels so they will properly fit (the T's the OE plastic elbows attach to).  Dremmel cutter does it fine.  You would never go back to OE rubber stems and elbows again, so no problem cutting them off.  It's not a big deal to point the stem to the low side (left) on the front wheel, as that's easy to reach.  But pointing them to the low side on an Interstate, Tourer, or Standard with hard bags means laying down on your stomach to get the gauge and air chuck on them, which sucks. (or getting the stem right where you can reach it from the back of the bike)

All my T's are gone, and good riddance.  Never going back to stock.

They come in many colors, but obviously the silver/chrome look best.

[OttawaWill]

It's funny that this popped up as I was looking for Alloy valve stems 90 degrees to be installed when I have the new Dunlops installed. 
Jess just to be clear when you refer to the high side you're referring to the high side of the wheel when the bike is resting on the kickstand... On my Magna it had stubby straight stems and it was a PITA to check and adjust... not a task that I like to ignore so making it less cumbersome is essential!
I leaning towards the style that Gordnov shared with the thought that it may weigh less but the thought of the sturdy/low profile design that Glaserbeam shared seems appealing as you can just stick a tire pressure chuck on it without applying counter pressure....  Decisions, decisions decisions..

[Jess from VA]

Jess just to be clear when you refer to the high side you're referring to the high side of the wheel when the bike is resting on the kickstand.

Yes that's what I meant.  

I believe the ones that lay flat on the wheel are better quality than the patchboy 90* stems (those clear the T's so no cutting required).  Once mounted they have no movement whatsoever; gauge or air chick one hand operation.  Billet aluminum with orings in the billet caps.  Not just stamped steel.

But they cost more too.   

[98valk]

all valve stem rubber, O-rings, etc., is EPDM rubber per DOT law and is required to last a minimum 60k miles.  Petroleum distillates which is in most waxes and polishes deteriorates EPDM.
I use the myers valve stem which puts the main sealing rubber inside of the wheel.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/myers-90%C2%B0-tubeless-chrome-valve-stem-p

[Willow]

I believe the ones that lay flat on the wheel are better quality than the patchboy 90* stems ...

We would disagree on that with the caveat that if they are "better" quality it is unneeded.  My patchboys are over ten years old and over 100,000 miles.

And, yes, the patchboys do not require any mod to the wheel.

[Valker]

I ran the "higher quality" flat ones. The first time I used a gas station air chuck on them, they bent at the inlet so the core wouldn't come out. They started leaking after that. I went with the steel ones over 100K miles ago.

[luftkoph]

Every time I get new tires on an automobile, new stems are put on, same with bike, problem solved

[hubcapsc]

Every time I get new tires on an automobile, new stems are put on, same with bike, problem solved

I guess... ida know... a new fragile $15 OEM valve stem with every tire?

I recently had a problem with the stainless steel ones that everyone likes.
The nut on the inside got loose.  I fixed it by tightening it enough
and put loctite on it. So... when you reuse the stainless ones,
don't forget to check that it is tight enough when you change
tires...

-Mike

[98valk]

Every time I get new tires on an automobile, new stems are put on, same with bike, problem solved

a shop can buy 100 valve stems for less than $20.  big profit for any shop to push replacement even when not needed per govt regulations.  don't clean wheels with products that have oil in them and valve stems will not wear out.  OTR wheels need to last 100k miles an d are made of same EPDM synthetic rubber.

[h13man]

This BikeMaster angled metal valve stem works really well in the confined space in Valkyrie wheels. Very solid, so you don't have to hold the back of the stem when using the air chuck. My original rubber valve stem ripped at the base while I was riding 65 mph+ on the highway ... luckily the tire didn't lose all its air till I got to my exit.  If you don't have a metal valve stem, you should replace the rubber one every time you change your tire ... my local bike shop didn't do that last time ...

p.s. I see Jess from VA recommended this particular metal valve stem in 2020.

Mine done the same thing after a tire change as its only style available locally. This was in the 1st. year of ownership. Like you I just going up a ramp when it went flat within 10 seconds thus got stopped in time w/o issues. Pulled back down the ramp with a assistance of a local GW couple heading to Wisconsin that night and parked at a closed BP and along comes local Sheriff and he said he keep an eye on it overnight. I also found that the "tombstone" valve stem support was gone also. Next change I went to metal stem and I still use the support. I got a good deal on a quantity of them online if anybody needing any.

[Willow]

My wife's OEM failed before I changed it out.  Fortunately it was a relatively slow leak so we got it to my brother's place where we could replace it.

Friends don't let friends ride on OEM valve stems.

[F6Dave]

The full size GL1800 Goldwings had TPMS, with a fancy internal sender and external metal stem. However, my 2016 F6B, which is basically a GL1800 without a trunk, had the very same valve stems as the Valkyrie, plastic clip and all. I eventually replaced them at a tire change, but apparently Honda still thought they were safe, or at least hadn't been sued.

[Willow]

... but apparently Honda still thought they were safe, or at least hadn't been sued.

Honda's recommendation is that the OEMs be replaced at alternating tire changes.  The choice becomes valve stems that need to be changed every other tire change at $11 each or metals that will last more than 100,000 miles at $2.50 each.  It is truly a no brainer.

Most riders don't change them at the frequency Honda recommends.