Throttle Sticks

[Baca]

I'm having problems with the throttle on my Valk sticking. Is there and easy way to lube the cables?

Baca

[hubcapsc]

I'm having problems with the throttle on my Valk sticking. Is there and easy way to lube the cables?

Here's how I do it...

Loosen your handlebars... protect your tank with a thick layer of blankets or towels or something, the loose
handlebars want to flip down and put a big dent in it... and slide them to the left.

Sliding your handlebars to the left is the key to having enough slack in your throttle cables to loosen
the switchbox and slide all that mess off the the right. Then, with a little disassembly,  you can get the
cable ends loose and start putting some kind of good lube (I use Tri-Flow) down the cables. When
lube comes out at the other end and drops back on your motor behind the carbs where it is hard to
clean, you're done...

If I remember, you have to unhook your brake light wire from where it plugs in at the lever-base before
you can pull the switch housing off, but it's an easy plug/unplug kind of connection.

Clean and put some lube (not heavy grease, too much stiction)  inside your grip-tube.

There's a lot of good kinds of lube, I mentioned TriFlow. Probably don't want to use WD40, it'll work great
at first but probably not last long enough to justify the hassle. Probably don't want to use silicone spray,
that was what we had over at my buddy Gary's house when we did it, and it didn't even seem all that
good at first, much less later...

When I first lubed mine like this, the throttle return action went from lousy to great.

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

I'm having problems with the throttle on my Valk sticking. Is there and easy way to lube the cables?

Baca

Although a sticking throttle is a potential problem and lubricating it can surely be the cure, it is important to insure you have a bit of freeplay in the system.

There are instances where attempting to remove a bit too much freeplay, will have a negative result of causing binding in the component parts.

It is important to certify the throttle action smoothly returning when the steering is full turned each way (left & right) lock to lock.

***

[hubcapsc]

It is important to certify the throttle action smoothly returning when the steering is full turned each way (left & right) lock to lock.


That bears repeating...

-Mike

[fudgie]

Did you add a throttle lock or grips?

[1fastbob]

Mine did the same thing....throttle sticking.  I lubed the cables and checked the routing, no help.  Then I checked the throttle lock and it was just a little too tight.  I losened it only slightly and fixed my problem. If you have a throttle lock loosen it a bit.

[9Ball]

are you sure you don't have a broken cable?  I've seen this happen when one of the bushings breaks off at the grip end. Motion Pro makes a throttle lube kit..

[Robert]

Cables are not expensive replace them they are mission critical parts. If they needed lubrication once they will need it again its a temporary fix. Cable usually have a Teflon coating on the inside and if the cable is sticking and you have done all what the previous posts have said to do then this coating may either be broken or just plain have rust or dirt in it. The cable has also started the rusting process and that's the real rub. The rust from the cable is built up enough to cause chaffing inside the cable. How much of the cable did the rust destroy? This will never come out lubrication may lessen it but it wont come out. The angle of throttle cables is such that water usually doesn't sit in them either. So in not knowing how much cable has been eaten away and that it will happen again and you dont want the throttle to stick or break at a critical moment I say replace it. But I would check the freeplay the linkages on the carb and see if there is any visible signs of cracking on the outside cable cover or any physical damage too.

[Duct Tape]

I added 5" risers and had to move my cable routing from the front of the triple tree top clamp to the rear of it.  This puts much too tight of a radius on the cables -- especially in a right turn.  So, I get slow spring back of the throttle in full left and center position, but no spring snap back of the throttle in full right.  In all positions manual rollback with virtually no resistance is fine.  With my fingers on the cable at the radius turn I can feel a very slight kink in the cable.  I measured and it looks like I need about 3" longer cables to route back to the front of the triple tree.  I've had a few people tell me the I/S cables are longer.  But, I'm not seeing any difference in the part numbers that I've found and all seem to show that they fit "all" valkyries.  Can someone confirm whether or not the I/S cables are longer than the OEM cables on the 98 Tourer?  If so, are they at least 3" longer?  If the I/S cables won't help me what is my next best source?

[MP]

I would go with custom length stainless cables.  Barnett, motion pro, a couple others make them.  Find a place that can order.  Then, tell them how much over stock you want.  +2", +3", or whatever.
Usually takes 2-3 weeks, but some have faster service for extra $.

MP

[fudgie]

Duct tape, I added risers to my 98 Tourer and had to reroute cable, even tho I was told I wouldn't need to.  After a year or so they were kinked enough that the plactic outter was gone and was rusty. Kind like your situation. It tried to measure for new cables but it was to hard. I just went with 8" longer for the hell of it. I could get by with 5". The cables round at the shield and did leave a wear mark on the shield. With the bat wing on all is fine. I got mine from motion Pro. I was 2 weeks out from Sturgis and wanted them by then. He was a month out when I called. 6 days before I left he called me and said they are done and we worked out a shipping. Good to deal with.

[alph]

I just replaced my cables.  The old ones were fine, I found that some sand or something like it had gotten in the tube and handle bar causing it to stick.  Don’t ask me how it happened!  When I put the new cables on I also noticed that if I adjust the slack, it would turn better.  Also, when the steering was turned to the right all the way, the cables would bind up if they were too tight and didn’t have enough slack.

[Duct Tape]

hondadirectlineparts was willing to order them from Barnett at about $72/cable (wound SS housing) -- 6-10 wks.  I contacted Motion Pro directly and they would do it for $37 (OE Black vinyl housing) -- 2-3 wks.  I ordered Motion Pro.