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Author Topic: Clutch questions  (Read 1666 times)
Peteg
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Posts: 221


« on: April 03, 2023, 01:29:08 PM »

I'm riding a 98 standard. Do clutches typically last the life of the bike for riders who are not overly abusive to the machine? If you do need to replace a clutch, is it typically done on the machine, or is it typically done with the engine removed?
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sandy
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Posts: 5376


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2023, 02:32:27 PM »

I sold a Valk with 155K and the original clutch. Also pulled a 400 lb tent trailer for over 20K of those miles.
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14756


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2023, 03:09:59 PM »

From my own experience and what I believe. The clutch lasts the life of the bike in many cases. Mine has 186k miles and the clutch is perfect. However the early models the 97 and some 98 models are prone to rivet failure on the pressure plate. A pet peeve of mine is that I personally believe it is too hard on the clutch to use downshifting and clutch work to slow the bike. I let engine braking in 5th gear to assist in slowing but when down shifting would be needed, I pull the clutch lever and go with brakes the rest of the way. Brake pads are cheaper than a new clutch.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30395


No VA


« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2023, 03:33:32 PM »

I had the sheared rivets in one of my '99 Interstates.  I DID NOT EVER ABUSE THE CLUTCH.  Or pull hole shots or wheelies.

I have two '99 interstates; the one with 108K has no issue, the rivets sheared in the other with 58K. 

So it's more than just 97-8s.

This just randomly happens, sometimes.

Repair with some or all parts is done on the bike (taking things apart).  Parts (I used all new) and labor about $1K. 
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Peteg
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Posts: 221


« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2023, 06:17:40 PM »

Good information thanks. I won't be doing as many miles as most so I'll likely never have a problem. I doubt I'll give up down shifting, but I guess I'll try to be as gentle as possible and use the throttle to match revs.
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Flat 6 man
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Posts: 71


Washington state


« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2023, 07:50:20 PM »

I've been downshifting to slow since I started riding 47 years ago and have yet to replace a clutch. You just have to use the throttle to raise the revs before reengaging the clutch. It's especially useful on long downgrades. Why waste money on brake pads when you can use free engine braking? It's also safer since you are in the right gear if you need to suddenly accelerate. Of course, don't overdo it - my dad used to rev it to redline when downshifting, which I don't do. I have to admit the most miles I've ever put on any one bike is about 50k (I've owned 11 bikes over my lifetime so far).
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1998 Valkyrie with Cobra exhaust and optional two-tone paint
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2023, 10:59:16 PM »

The Valkyrie clutch is pretty stout. The dampener plate is its weak point. I doubt downshifting or getting on the throttle has much effect on them. Even when the rivet plates do give way, they do little damage. I’ve got maybe 120k on 2 bikes. 99 and 01, ridden the same. 1 damper plate down, 1 master cylinder kit, 1 slave rebuild.
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6426


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2023, 02:50:14 PM »

Out of the 5 Valkyries I've owned and the 4 or 5 I've worked on, my 99 Tourer is the only girl that's been apart for clutch work.

Rivets self-destructed at somewhere around 35K.  I blame myself for being slightly aggressive in both acceleration and deceleration. Roll Eyes

I did replace a clutch slave cylinder.
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