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Author Topic: WTB Prop shaft  (Read 2894 times)
Teach
Member
*****
Posts: 14


Rome, NY


« on: April 06, 2023, 06:00:44 AM »

Does anyone have a prop shaft (drive shat) for 19987-2003 Valk that they would b willing to part with?  I spun the shaft in the pinion cup on the way back from Bike week and it is back ordered from Honda.  Part #40201-MZ0-A00.  Thanks!
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16768


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2023, 06:27:51 AM »


If you end up getting a used shaft, try to get the matching pinion cup,
they'd be worn in together...

-Mike
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Teach
Member
*****
Posts: 14


Rome, NY


« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2023, 05:40:50 AM »

Thanks Mike.  I have a new pinion cup, an am working with Honda to try and get the new shaft.  If all else fails, there's one on ebay that the guy is charging 2.5x new with a pinion cup, but I hate to support "gougers".  Larry
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98valk
Member
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Posts: 13439


South Jersey


« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2023, 06:35:07 AM »

Does anyone have a prop shaft (drive shat) for 19987-2003 Valk that they would b willing to part with?  I spun the shaft in the pinion cup on the way back from Bike week and it is back ordered from Honda.  Part #40201-MZ0-A00.  Thanks!

I had that failure two yrs ago with only 17k miles after last maintenance tire change.

Re: Broke down yesterday
« Reply #56 on: May 24, 2021, 06:21:35 PM »
   
So my conclusion is to make sure the U-Joint splines are correctly lubricated, to prevent the drive shaft to final drive splines aka spline coupling (SC) from wearing out. I also install a new driveshaft to spline cup seal every other tire change.

The SC in a perfect application would have zero forward/rearward movement and would be submerged in oil which would result in zero wear and fretting. Fretting is a type of corrosion which gives that rust powder look. Is not from water intrusion. In some applications they actually glue the splines together to stop movement.

Honda provided the locking spring clip on the SC end of the drive shaft to help reduce movement of the SC, but it is still not a solid zero movement connection. So this is where the lubricated U-joint splines come into effect, thereby doing all of the movement, to reduce or actually eliminate any SC movement.

In a few of the links I provide it is stated that the SC splines should be hardened to greatly reduce wear.  Did Honda do this to the parts?, it doesn't seem like they did, since that would have been a much higher cost.

In my case I inadvertently mixed greases with different bases for the u-joint splines, by re-greasing and not cleaning off the old grease.
My fault, at the time, I didn't realize they had different bases. So what happened the greases started to dry out and not provide the easy sliding movement as needed and the SC failed in 17k miles.

For re-installing the U-Joint boot I coated the inside lips with silicone grease and it pops on with zero problems. suggest not to use a silicone spray which has petroleum products in it and other things which could degrade the boot material.

So to bring this all together, proper lubrication of the u-joint splines is extremely important and should be done every tire change to protect the SC. 
This time I used moly bearing chassis grease for the U-Joint for even more friction reduction and easier sliding.

For the SC I mixed TS-70 moly paste with some high temp grease so there would be about a 50/50 moly to grease ratio as recommended by the Dan Foss pdf which is a much higher percent of moly than the 3% moly grease the Honda manual calls for.

The following documents have some very good info about SCs and lubrication requirements.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/693/fretting-wear

https://www.powertransmission.com/issues/0214/spline-couplings.pdf

https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/76142/AI152986482538en-000304.pdf

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=423609

https://gearsolutions.com/departments/tooth-tips-a-brief-overview-of-splines/

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=383504
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Teach
Member
*****
Posts: 14


Rome, NY


« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2023, 06:18:16 AM »

Wow! Thanks for all the great info!  I'll start checking out the links this morning.  The only obvious thing I found was rust in the swing arm and cup and the oil seal was destroyed.  The only time I had any work done by a dealership was the last time I had the rear tire changed after a blow out in a pretty remote location.  I suspect that it was a misalignment issue, but who knows.  I have been using BMW TS60 spline grease.  Anyway, I guess I'll source a used one with matching cup and play the waiting game.  Glad I have other bikes! 
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Pappy!
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Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2023, 07:12:50 AM »

Guys, the splines on both the cup and shaft are broached splines. If you know your cup splines are in good visual condition and you purchase a good used shaft. Install it and go on with life!
When doing a spline service, If you are really concerned about matched wear patterns then you would also have to time and insert the shaft into the splines exactly as they were each time you do a rear end service, wouldn't you!
« Last Edit: April 08, 2023, 07:15:18 AM by Pappy! » Logged
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13439


South Jersey


« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2023, 07:46:42 AM »

Wow! Thanks for all the great info!  I'll start checking out the links this morning.  The only obvious thing I found was rust in the swing arm and cup and the oil seal was destroyed.  The only time I had any work done by a dealership was the last time I had the rear tire changed after a blow out in a pretty remote location.  I suspect that it was a misalignment issue, but who knows.  I have been using BMW TS60 spline grease.  Anyway, I guess I'll source a used one with matching cup and play the waiting game.  Glad I have other bikes! 

the BMW grease is from the TS-moly company and was the guard dog spline grease.

https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-spline-grease-p-367.html

https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-moly-grease-contact-beemershopcom-info-p-251.html
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16768


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: April 08, 2023, 01:15:34 PM »

Guys, the splines on both the cup and shaft are broached splines. If you know your cup splines are in good visual condition and you purchase a good used shaft. Install it and go on with life!
When doing a spline service, If you are really concerned about matched wear patterns then you would also have to time and insert the shaft into the splines exactly as they were each time you do a rear end service, wouldn't you!

I'd hate to put a half worn-out drive shaft into a brand new pinion cup... unless
that was the only way I could roll...

-Mike
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98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13439


South Jersey


« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2023, 01:31:14 PM »

Guys, the splines on both the cup and shaft are broached splines. If you know your cup splines are in good visual condition and you purchase a good used shaft. Install it and go on with life!
When doing a spline service, If you are really concerned about matched wear patterns then you would also have to time and insert the shaft into the splines exactly as they were each time you do a rear end service, wouldn't you!

100%  cooldude   manual would state to such a thing matching up wear patterns and it does not.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Pappy!
Member
*****
Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2023, 06:35:55 AM »

Guys, the splines on both the cup and shaft are broached splines. If you know your cup splines are in good visual condition and you purchase a good used shaft. Install it and go on with life!
When doing a spline service, If you are really concerned about matched wear patterns then you would also have to time and insert the shaft into the splines exactly as they were each time you do a rear end service, wouldn't you!

I'd hate to put a half worn-out drive shaft into a brand new pinion cup... unless
that was the only way I could roll...

-Mike

That's why I said "if you know your splines are in good shape". Where did I say you can use half worn out splines??  Why try and change what I clearly did not write?? 
« Last Edit: April 09, 2023, 06:39:40 AM by Pappy! » Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14756


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2023, 04:07:32 PM »

If you’re still looking for a new driveshaft. I have one you can have for shipping if you send me the one you have on order once it comes in. Pm me if you need it

Jeff aka ChrisjCMA
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