New guy here, picking up my grandfather's Valkyrie.

[ryno9100]

On further inspection, I think it's a vacuum line for the intake tube.

If so, that would be the rear most intake tube (runner) on the right bank. The tube originates from the fuel valve and is the vacuum line for the fuel valve diaphram.

Below, apparently the fuel tank's vent line is there. Also its translucent.

That makes sense, except that I'm fairly certain it was on the left bank. I found this forum post:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=120019.0

It mentions that cylinder 6 (left bank, farthest back, I think) goes to the fuel petcock, cylinders 3 and 4 go to the T hose up to the PAIR system (assuming the bike hasn't been desmogged, and it looks like this one has not). Am i mistaken on that? Trust me, I won't be offended if you tell me I'm wrong. I know I'm a millennial, but I'm not sensitive. Lol.

Oh, btw, that Mean Green® was a recommendation from a forum member and is amazing on the Valk engine's silver areas. Available at the dollar store. I get mine at Walmart. 

Gotcha! Yeah, I had just sprayed a little carb cleaner to get the worst of it off. Once I have it all back together, I plan to use a pressure washer from a good distance away and get as much gunk off as I can. Obviously cover the Corbin seats and plug the exhaust. That's how I wash my Versys anyways. Keeping some mean green on hand might be a good plan anyways.

[RonW]

whoops, yes the left bank. Mines on the right bank because I'm experimenting if it's easier to install.

(I never heard the intake tubes referred to as intake runners, but that's the nomenclature they use here. For years. When in rome.)

[gordonv]

I can't remember, do you have the shop service manual? A PDF copy should be able to find here.

https://web.archive.org/web/20210507002851/http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

There is pages with the routing of wires/cable/hoses. Worth knowing to find out where things should go.

[RonW]

..... cylinders 3 and 4 go to the T hose up to the PAIR system (assuming the bike hasn't been desmogged, and it looks like this one has not). Am i mistaken on that?

By your pics, I mistakenly thought it was desmogged because the PAIR valve wasn't there but realized the PAIR valve is bolted to the carb rack. If it was desmogged, the filtered air supply spout for the PAIR valve on the bottom of the airbox would have been plugged.

[ryno9100]

I do have a shop manual, but I apparently didn't see the part that shows you all the hoses. I saw the wiring section.

One quick question. The petcock I ordered came with a fuel strainer I had assumed was just too big for the tank. Upon further inspection, there seems to be something almost rubbery stuck in the hole the petcock goes in. I'll try to grab a picture of it later. Could this be the old fuel strainer stuck to the tank? If I got that our, it looks like my replacement strainer would fit.

Edit: got the picture.


Shining a light down there, it definitely looks like it could be the old strainer. Just got to try to get it out without ripping it to shreds. Lol

[da prez]

It will rip . Try soaking with WD40. PB blaster will dissolve some plastic. Put a small screwdriver in center and pry up and go side to side. Other way ,  carefully push a small screwdriver in one side and collapse it in. It will loosen it and then pull it out.  Tank looks like it will need a serious cleaning.

                                         da prez

[ryno9100]

It will rip . Try soaking with WD40. PB blaster will dissolve some plastic. Put a small screwdriver in center and pry up and go side to side. Other way ,  carefully push a small screwdriver in one side and collapse it in. It will loosen it and then pull it out.  Tank looks like it will need a serious cleaning.

                                         da prez

I managed to get lost is it out, but there's still a small piece that feel back in. I'll fish it out before I reassemble, just not today.

Also, the tank is significantly cleaner than that picture makes it look. I'm guessing that's still dirty because of the old strainer being stuck there. I'll give that little area a really good once over as well.

[ryno9100]

Took me 2 hours to get the damn air box back on. Lol. I tried the zip tie method and it helped, but getting all 6 of the hoses lined up and on the carbs was painful.

Gonna remove all 6 spark plugs and run the starter to make sure no gas is left standing in the cylinder, then hook up the gas tank and see what happens.

[RonW]

Some days the snorkles goes on quick. However there are a lot more days that it doesn't. I use a radiator hose pick to make sure they're fully seated on the carbs.






---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I posted the graphic below earlier, but forgot to explain what it was for. Kinda late because I don't imagine you'll be taking off the airbox again for the life of the bike.
Anyways, while you had all the stuff off the top of the engine, it's a good opportunity to get rid of the rubber vacuum tubes.



The PAIR valve will be disabled without the vacuum tubes but plug its vacuum inlet. 



A step further would be discarding the PAIR valve and plug the reed valves' inlets. You'll have to plug the spout (and here) for the PAIR valve's filtered air supply located
at the bottom of the airbox. I wouldn't remove the reed valves because you'd be left with 6 air injection tubes to plug versus two plugs for the reed valves if left in situ.

[ryno9100]

Bike is together and it runs! But it's POURING gas out. I couldn't get a good picture, so I snagged a screenshot from D Ray's youtube videos.



These two have fuel coming out for days. I've done a decent bit of digging and can't find the names or uses for these tubes. I assume they're supposed to attach to something, but I have no empty tubes anywhere. Partzilla's diagrams aren't doing me much good, as I can't parse what goes where without seeing where it connects on the carbs.
(To be clear, it's the two smaller tubes, not the bigger tube that attaches to the PAIR system.)

Also, minor issue, but it seems cylinder 6 is not pulling enough vacuum to actually make the petcock work. I've replaced the line and ensured it's the right size and clamped on both ends, but no luck.

Honestly, I'm just happy it's running, and it sounds fairly smooth. I may try to air  up the old tires and see if it'll handle a VERY short trip down my neighborhood's road once the rain stops and the roads dry up.

EDIT:
After posting this for help, I found the answer.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=44592.0

I tapped on the right bank, where the fuel was coming from, and it stopped. Still trying to figure out my vacuum leak issue. Is there something else involved in the vacuum between Cylinder 6 and the petcock?

[RonW]

The vacuum tube plugs into Item 5 at A. The internal diagphram may have developed a tear preventing a vacuum from pulling the fuel valve open.

[98valk]

Bike is together and it runs! But it's POURING gas out. I couldn't get a good picture, so I snagged a screenshot from D Ray's youtube videos.



These two have fuel coming out for days. I've done a decent bit of digging and can't find the names or uses for these tubes. I assume they're supposed to attach to something, but I have no empty tubes anywhere. Partzilla's diagrams aren't doing me much good, as I can't parse what goes where without seeing where it connects on the carbs.
(To be clear, it's the two smaller tubes, not the bigger tube that attaches to the PAIR system.)

Also, minor issue, but it seems cylinder 6 is not pulling enough vacuum to actually make the petcock work. I've replaced the line and ensured it's the right size and clamped on both ends, but no luck.

Honestly, I'm just happy it's running, and it sounds fairly smooth. I may try to air  up the old tires and see if it'll handle a VERY short trip down my neighborhood's road once the rain stops and the roads dry up.

EDIT:
After posting this for help, I found the answer.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=44592.0

I tapped on the right bank, where the fuel was coming from, and it stopped. Still trying to figure out my vacuum leak issue. Is there something else involved in the vacuum between Cylinder 6 and the petcock?

those two tubes which are installed in the correct location are the carb bowl vent/overflow lines. installed correctly and not clogged prevent hydro-lock.

[ryno9100]

Thanks Ron and 98valk!

I ended up putting around the neighborhood for around ten minutes yesterday and things went surprisingly well. The engine really started to smooth out after the first minute or so.

Next step is an oil change and coolant flush. My dad and my grandpa both recommend changing out the timing belt. Then I'll go grab my registration, then new tires! I'll still need to do some fine tuning on the syncing, but things are looking up for getting this old garage abandoned bike back on the road!

[98valk]

Thanks Ron and 98valk!

I ended up putting around the neighborhood for around ten minutes yesterday and things went surprisingly well. The engine really started to smooth out after the first minute or so.

Next step is an oil change and coolant flush. My dad and my grandpa both recommend changing out the timing belt. Then I'll go grab my registration, then new tires! I'll still need to do some fine tuning on the syncing, but things are looking up for getting this old garage abandoned bike back on the road!

manuals for GL1500 engines require inspection of timing belts at 100k miles. failing inspection is cause for early replacement. They are actually Gates industrial drive belts designed to run 24/7 at much higher loads than the 90lb springs on the camshafts. honda uses them as timing belts, and since per states and Fed laws timing belts are required to last 100k for emissions.

[ryno9100]

Thanks Ron and 98valk!

I ended up putting around the neighborhood for around ten minutes yesterday and things went surprisingly well. The engine really started to smooth out after the first minute or so.

Next step is an oil change and coolant flush. My dad and my grandpa both recommend changing out the timing belt. Then I'll go grab my registration, then new tires! I'll still need to do some fine tuning on the syncing, but things are looking up for getting this old garage abandoned bike back on the road!

manuals for GL1500 engines require inspection of timing belts at 100k miles. failing inspection is cause for early replacement. They are actually Gates industrial drive belts designed to run 24/7 at much higher loads than the 90lb springs on the camshafts. honda uses them as timing belts, and since per states and Fed laws timing belts are required to last 100k for emissions.

Gotcha! I found the bit in the manual about how to do it, and because the engine is so exposed, it seems like it's extraordinarily easy to get the cover off and check the belt. I'll try to get that done this weekend. If it looks fine, I'm well under that 100k mile mark and will probably just leave it.

Unfortunately, tires are not an optional replacement, and my budget is already shot. Lol. My local dealer is quoting me $418 for a set of Shinko SE890s, including labor and replacement valve stems (which are leaky, so I'm okay with them being replaced). That's about $200 above my budget right this second, so the bike is getting put on the back burner for a couple of paychecks, unfortunately. Unless I just get extremely impatient and reallocate funds from elsewhere.

I'm open to recommendations on tires, too. I'm used to riding a sport touring bike, so I want some that I'll feel confident leaning on. I know this is a cruiser, not a sport bike, so I'm not expecting my tires to perform on the razors edge of traction. I just want confidence knowing I can lean the bike as far as I might need to. I've the Metzeler ME888s are really good too. Obviously, Michellin's Pilot Road 5s or 6s are amazing, but they're WAY out of my price range right now. Been doing a lot of looking around these forums on different tires, but there aren't a lot of more recent posts about it.

Fortunately, the pads are in good shape, and my grandfather gave me some coolant, oil and brake fluid to get the bike in tip top shape.

Short video for attention of the bike running for the very first time. It's VERY rough in this video, but it is idling on it's own!

https://youtube.com/shorts/T2f6NHK9btM?feature=share

[Willow]

Almost any tires recommended for the Valkyrie will lean just fine.  Valkyries are known to have the underside edge of the pilot pegs to show scrapings.  Many of us run tires not made for motorcycles on the rear and scrape pegs easily.

For valve stems I would highly recommend moving away from the bendable (rubber based) OEMs to a fully metal set.  I get mine from Patchboy.com and they cost around $2 each (plus shipping).  OEMs cost $11 each and recommend they be replaced at alternating tire changes.  Metals will last the life of the machine and will not be susceptible to ruin from pressing back during pressure checking or airing.  Thus they do not need the support of the element on the OEMs.

[..]

Thanks Ron and 98valk!

I ended up putting around the neighborhood for around ten minutes yesterday and things went surprisingly well. The engine really started to smooth out after the first minute or so.

Next step is an oil change and coolant flush. My dad and my grandpa both recommend changing out the timing belt. Then I'll go grab my registration, then new tires! I'll still need to do some fine tuning on the syncing, but things are looking up for getting this old garage abandoned bike back on the road!

manuals for GL1500 engines require inspection of timing belts at 100k miles. failing inspection is cause for early replacement. They are actually Gates industrial drive belts designed to run 24/7 at much higher loads than the 90lb springs on the camshafts. honda uses them as timing belts, and since per states and Fed laws timing belts are required to last 100k for emissions.

Gotcha! I found the bit in the manual about how to do it, and because the engine is so exposed, it seems like it's extraordinarily easy to get the cover off and check the belt. I'll try to get that done this weekend. If it looks fine, I'm well under that 100k mile mark and will probably just leave it.

Unfortunately, tires are not an optional replacement, and my budget is already shot. Lol. My local dealer is quoting me $418 for a set of Shinko SE890s, including labor and replacement valve stems (which are leaky, so I'm okay with them being replaced). That's about $200 above my budget right this second, so the bike is getting put on the back burner for a couple of paychecks, unfortunately. Unless I just get extremely impatient and reallocate funds from elsewhere.

I'm open to recommendations on tires, too. I'm used to riding a sport touring bike, so I want some that I'll feel confident leaning on. I know this is a cruiser, not a sport bike, so I'm not expecting my tires to perform on the razors edge of traction. I just want confidence knowing I can lean the bike as far as I might need to. I've the Metzeler ME888s are really good too. Obviously, Michellin's Pilot Road 5s or 6s are amazing, but they're WAY out of my price range right now. Been doing a lot of looking around these forums on different tires, but there aren't a lot of more recent posts about it.

Fortunately, the pads are in good shape, and my grandfather gave me some coolant, oil and brake fluid to get the bike in tip top shape.

Short video for attention of the bike running for the very first time. It's VERY rough in this video, but it is idling on it's own!

https://youtube.com/shorts/T2f6NHK9btM?feature=share

Front tire. Look at Shinko.

Rear tire. Champiro VP1.



Brake pads. Look at sixity.com

https://www.sixity.com/search?q=2000+valkyrie+brake+pads

[ryno9100]

Thanks Ron and 98valk!

I ended up putting around the neighborhood for around ten minutes yesterday and things went surprisingly well. The engine really started to smooth out after the first minute or so.

Next step is an oil change and coolant flush. My dad and my grandpa both recommend changing out the timing belt. Then I'll go grab my registration, then new tires! I'll still need to do some fine tuning on the syncing, but things are looking up for getting this old garage abandoned bike back on the road!

manuals for GL1500 engines require inspection of timing belts at 100k miles. failing inspection is cause for early replacement. They are actually Gates industrial drive belts designed to run 24/7 at much higher loads than the 90lb springs on the camshafts. honda uses them as timing belts, and since per states and Fed laws timing belts are required to last 100k for emissions.

Gotcha! I found the bit in the manual about how to do it, and because the engine is so exposed, it seems like it's extraordinarily easy to get the cover off and check the belt. I'll try to get that done this weekend. If it looks fine, I'm well under that 100k mile mark and will probably just leave it.

Unfortunately, tires are not an optional replacement, and my budget is already shot. Lol. My local dealer is quoting me $418 for a set of Shinko SE890s, including labor and replacement valve stems (which are leaky, so I'm okay with them being replaced). That's about $200 above my budget right this second, so the bike is getting put on the back burner for a couple of paychecks, unfortunately. Unless I just get extremely impatient and reallocate funds from elsewhere.

I'm open to recommendations on tires, too. I'm used to riding a sport touring bike, so I want some that I'll feel confident leaning on. I know this is a cruiser, not a sport bike, so I'm not expecting my tires to perform on the razors edge of traction. I just want confidence knowing I can lean the bike as far as I might need to. I've the Metzeler ME888s are really good too. Obviously, Michellin's Pilot Road 5s or 6s are amazing, but they're WAY out of my price range right now. Been doing a lot of looking around these forums on different tires, but there aren't a lot of more recent posts about it.

Fortunately, the pads are in good shape, and my grandfather gave me some coolant, oil and brake fluid to get the bike in tip top shape.

Short video for attention of the bike running for the very first time. It's VERY rough in this video, but it is idling on it's own!

https://youtube.com/shorts/T2f6NHK9btM?feature=share

Front tire. Look at Shinko.

Rear tire. Champiro VP1.



Brake pads. Look at sixity.com

https://www.sixity.com/search?q=2000+valkyrie+brake+pads

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll take a look at those for sure.

Almost any tires recommended for the Valkyrie will lean just fine.  Valkyries are known to have the underside edge of the pilot pegs to show scrapings.  Many of us run tires not made for motorcycles on the rear and scrape pegs easily.

For valve stems I would highly recommend moving away from the bendable (rubber based) OEMs to a fully metal set.  I get mine from Patchboy.com and they cost around $2 each (plus shipping).  OEMs cost $11 each and recommend they be replaced at alternating tire changes.  Metals will last the life of the machine and will not be susceptible to ruin from pressing back during pressure checking or airing.  Thus they do not need the support of the element on the OEMs.

Gotcha! It's got metal valve stems on it right now. I thought they were leaking, but I just checked the PSI and the tires are holding air now. Aired them up to 40 PSI front and back and they're still sitting at 40 PSI. I'll try to snag a picture of them later.

Unfortunately, the timing belt is shot and the gasket around it completely disintegrated when I removed it, so I've got both of those on order now. Explains some of the noise I was hearing. Definitely going to have to delay the tires now, but I should still be able to crank the bike and putz it around the neighborhood to keep fluids flowing consistently once I get these belts and gaskets in. Bummer, but I can be patient with it. I've still got the Versys to ride around. Lol.

[Willow]

Gotcha! It's got metal valve stems on it right now. ...

I guess I took it wrong when you said the cost would include stems.  Metal stems don't get replaced.  OEMs look like they re metal but they are rubber where they pass through the rim.  If you press on the stem where the air goes in and it moves at all it isn't a full metal stem.

The metal stems do have rubber washers to seal them at the rim but the stems themselves are all metal.   

[RonW]

Hmmm, oem valve stems are metal when you think about it. The seal is 100% rubber.

'Metal stems' are like below. I prefer the nuts on the outside of the wheel.

[RonW]

Unfortunately, the timing belt is shot and the gasket around it completely disintegrated when I removed it,


Something like this keeps the bolts organized.




The top Bolt 22 requires sealant, per manual (8-29). Bolts 22 are the longest bolts. It passes the water jacket, oil passage, or sumpthin.

[Savago]

> Unfortunately, the timing belt is shot and the gasket around it completely disintegrated when I removed it, so I've got both of those on order now.

I would pay *extra attention* while replacing the timing belts, there are so many reported cases of people damaging the engine (i.e. bent valves) by *not* ensuring that everything is properly aligned.

Spent the time studying the subject as that can save both time and money.
:-)

[Jess from VA]

Timing Belts

Gates # 275

Napa # 250275

Goodyear - #40275

Savago is right; you can't be one tooth off. 

Also, the belt idler pulleys are often in need of replacement before the belts (2) are.  There is a way to make your own for cheaper than OE parts.  I saw it done, but don't know the process. 

[gordonv]

Where to get the stems.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/myers-90%C2%B0-tubeless-chrome-valve-stem-p

They have maybe 4 sales a year with no shipping charge. A good time to buy a few sets and give some away to friends.

A how-to on timing belt replacement, ignore all the stuff specific to the GW.

https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9774

Basic, remove the plugs so the compression doesn't try to turn/hold the crank. Verify your timing is right 1st, before you remove the old belts.

The belt part # was given, you can buy them cheap almost anywhere, but you've already ordered yours. I bought mine from an auto store in like 2010, and paid $45 for the pair.

[ridingron]

Timing Belts

Gates # 275

Napa # 250275

Goodyear - #40275

Savago is right; you can't be one tooth off. 

Also, the belt idler pulleys are often in need of replacement before the belts (2) are.  There is a way to make your own for cheaper than OE parts.  I saw it done, but don't know the process. 

Some pictures may be missing.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,110100.0.html

[ryno9100]

Thanks for the mod advice.

I think I'm going to go with my gut for now and keep the bike as stock as I can, including sticking with motorcycle tires, rather than going darkside. I'll re-evaluate once I'm used to riding a bigger, heavier bike than my Versys. I can already crank out solid uturns at 10MPH on really crappy, old and hard tires.

As for the other bits, I'll definitely take a look at the timing belt mod, though, again, I'm probably going to wait on any mods for now. My main goal is to get this thing running well and experience it as is.

[ryno9100]

Looks like Cylinder 6 isn't firing. I replaced all the spark plugs, no change. They needed replaced anyways. The ignition coil sparks and the spark plug is wet. I'm getting fuel and seemingly spark. That leaves air. I've read I can check the air diaphragm or check the throttle set screw.

More digging and troubleshooting. When it stops being 105 degrees and 70% humidity out, I'll dig into it again. Lol

[ryno9100]

Okay! It's been a minute since I updated, so here I am. Lol.

My dad came by and helped me take a look at this. We did a compression test. Cylinder 6 tests at around 60 PSI, while all of the others test around 95PSI. We did a leakdown test on the cylinder and it doesn't seem to leak anywhere.

The spark plugs are brand new, the ignition coil sparks and works and the spark plug is getting wet when the bike runs.

My dad is worried about a bend rod. TDC on the left bank all visually look the same, but I know it can be a very small amount of difference. Some other folks have suggested bent valves, but Dad is certain that's not it, since there was no leak at all. My next step is to remove the valve cover and take a look at everything a bit closer.

Once I get this sorted out, I'll change the timing belt, change the tires and get to riding!

[Timbo1]

I've never seen a bent valve pass a leak down test so I wouldn't consider that to be the problem.  I cant imagine a slightly bent rod causing low compression either so I'd move on from that possibility.  I would put a dial indicator on each of the pistons to verify the stroke is the same on each cylinder if you think it's bent enough to increase the displacement to the degree of the decreased compression.  If a rod is bent the stroke would be slightly less than the others.

I'd be more inclined to think stuck ring especially since the bike sat.  I'd try soaking the cylinder with Marvel mystery oil, diesel or similar then run it through a few heat cycles to see if compression has improved.

I would think even at the lower compression it should be firing.  I'd probably try swapping plug wires and coils one at a time to see if the firing problem moved to another cylinder.

Once I confirmed electrical side is for certain working as it should I'd focus on fuel supply.  Perhaps the carb is flooding the cylinder.

[Cracker Jack]

I've never seen a bent valve pass a leak down test so I wouldn't consider that to be the problem.  I cant imagine a slightly bent rod causing low compression either so I'd move on from that possibility.  I would put a dial indicator on each of the pistons to verify the stroke is the same on each cylinder if you think it's bent enough to increase the displacement to the degree of the decreased compression. If a rod is bent the stroke would be slightly less than the others.

I'd be more inclined to think stuck ring especially since the bike sat.  I'd try soaking the cylinder with Marvel mystery oil, diesel or similar then run it through a few heat cycles to see if compression has improved.

I would think even at the lower compression it should be firing.  I'd probably try swapping plug wires and coils one at a time to see if the firing problem moved to another cylinder.

Once I confirmed electrical side is for certain working as it should I'd focus on fuel supply.  Perhaps the carb is flooding the cylinder.

Don't believe a bent rod by itself would decrease the stroke as it's determined solely by the geometry of the crankshaft. It would simply move the piston travel range closer to the crank thereby reducing the compression by increasing the compressed volume. 

[Timbo1]

Don't believe a bent rod by itself would decrease the stroke as it's determined solely by the geometry of the crankshaft. It would simply move the piston travel range closer to the crank thereby reducing the compression by increasing the compressed volume. 

Your right.  The way I stated it is wrong.  The intent of my statement was to measure the rise of the piston in relation to the head which would indicate a larger area or not.  A jig with a dial indicator across one bank of cylinders perhaps.  There may be other ways to measure it without pulling the head but idk what they are. Plastigauge perhaps?

[ryno9100]

I've never seen a bent valve pass a leak down test so I wouldn't consider that to be the problem.  I cant imagine a slightly bent rod causing low compression either so I'd move on from that possibility.  I would put a dial indicator on each of the pistons to verify the stroke is the same on each cylinder if you think it's bent enough to increase the displacement to the degree of the decreased compression.  If a rod is bent the stroke would be slightly less than the others.

I'd be more inclined to think stuck ring especially since the bike sat.  I'd try soaking the cylinder with Marvel mystery oil, diesel or similar then run it through a few heat cycles to see if compression has improved.

I would think even at the lower compression it should be firing.  I'd probably try swapping plug wires and coils one at a time to see if the firing problem moved to another cylinder.

Once I confirmed electrical side is for certain working as it should I'd focus on fuel supply.  Perhaps the carb is flooding the cylinder.

I did soak the cylinder in seafoam for 3 days, then in 2 stroke oil for a few hours. I cranked the bike, let it run for a few minutes then touched each exhaust pipe on the left side. 2 and 4 were scorching hot, while 6 was uncomfortable, but I could wrap my hand around it without burning it.

I know the ignition coil is fine. I tested it out. I haven't moved the wires, just due to the pain of moving them, but it definitely sends spark to the plugs. I did move the plugs around with no change.

The tip of the plug is just barely dark, like it's trying to spark but not sparking well enough. A floodeing carb was my best guess, but that doesn't explain the low compression.

I did redo my compression test after the seafoam soak, and it was still at 60psi.

[RonW]

I did soak the cylinder in seafoam for 3 days, then in 2 stroke oil for a few hours. I cranked the bike, let it run for a few minutes .....

I still think it's better to hand crank the engine a few revolutions before hitting the start button. Imho.

[ryno9100]

Figured it out.

After soaking the inside of the combustion chamber, I redid the compression test and the leakdown test and it passed both of them! But the cylinder wasn't firing properly still. I was getting a LOT of very white smoke with no odor and no burning of the eyes. Me and Dad were puzzled, but my grandfather suggested a sticky exhaust valve. So I removed the exhaust, slapped some duct tape over the cylinder and drenched it in even more seafoam. Let that sit for a day, drained it and reassembled the bike, put a little 2 stroke oil in the gas to help lube everything on the top end up, and aired up the tires for a test ride.

It ran a little rough, then I got to the straight part of my neighborhood and let the throttle open. I got a LOt of white smoke out of it, several backfires, and suddenly the bike was insanely smooth. No more shaking in the bars, no more backfiring. It looks like the old gas had just gunked up on the valve so bad that it was sticking and not not working properly.

This bike is amazingly smooth. It's smoother than my P-Twin Versys by far, which isn't a shaky bike to begin with.

Now it just needs new tires and for me to sort out the registration, and this Valkyrie will be back on the road!

[Valker]

Figured it out.

After soaking the inside of the combustion chamber, I redid the compression test and the leakdown test and it passed both of them! But the cylinder wasn't firing properly still. I was getting a LOT of very white smoke with no odor and no burning of the eyes. Me and Dad were puzzled, but my grandfather suggested a sticky exhaust valve. So I removed the exhaust, slapped some duct tape over the cylinder and drenched it in even more seafoam. Let that sit for a day, drained it and reassembled the bike, put a little 2 stroke oil in the gas to help lube everything on the top end up, and aired up the tires for a test ride.

It ran a little rough, then I got to the straight part of my neighborhood and let the throttle open. I got a LOt of white smoke out of it, several backfires, and suddenly the bike was insanely smooth. No more shaking in the bars, no more backfiring. It looks like the old gas had just gunked up on the valve so bad that it was sticking and not not working properly.

This bike is amazingly smooth. It's smoother than my P-Twin Versys by far, which isn't a shaky bike to begin with.

Now it just needs new tires and for me to sort out the registration, and this Valkyrie will be back on the road!

Well done. Have a blast!

[ridingron]

...
 Let that sit for a day, drained it and reassembled the bike, put a little 2 stroke oil in the gas to help lube everything on the top end up, and aired up the tires for a test ride.

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One of the members here suggest running 1 oz of 2 stroke water craft oil for each 5 gal of gas, constantly.

[ryno9100]

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 Let that sit for a day, drained it and reassembled the bike, put a little 2 stroke oil in the gas to help lube everything on the top end up, and aired up the tires for a test ride.

...

One of the members here suggest running 1 oz of 2 stroke water craft oil for each 5 gal of gas, constantly.

That's probably not a terrible plan. I'm already planning to add a few cap fulls of seafoam every tank for the first few tanks of gas. After that, I might start doing this.

Got videos of it running. The white smoke in the first video is just leftover seafoam and water burning off.
https://youtu.be/89Fu6-i9E3Q?si=iamOJyBX80gWD19k

https://youtu.be/w5ZzK3GGiPQ?si=WTrteIkU_t5pEcYY

New tires are ordered and awaiting arrival. Once those are installed, I'll get registration sorted out, then ride it out to my dad's house to have him help with the timing belt (nervous to do an interference engine on my own, no matter how simple it looks). Between now and then, I'll flush the front and rear brake fluids and the clutch fluid and tie up all the loose hoses under the bike (old airhorns grandpa installed that no longer work), and probably clean up a bunch of the lighting/wiring that no longer functions.

[da prez]

  Belt change is easy , screwing up is easier.  After I do a belt change , I bar the engine over at least two full revolutions.  Use the center timing bolt. If there is an issue , it will be felt before starting. On each full revolution , check the timing marks. Over kill? I do not think so.

                                        da prez