Brake System Fluid Replacement

[carolinarider09]

I don't think I have ever drained (removed) the brake fluid on my 2003 Valkyrie Standard.   I don't think I have done anything to the clutch fluid either. 

What I would like to do is to drain and refill both the brake fluid and the clutch fluid.   

Can someone direct me to a good resource for accomplishing this task.  I do have a Mityvac vacuum brake bleeder I have used on my Goldwing.  Just never used it on the Valkyrie.

A YouTube video would be nice and yes, I could just look it up, but I'd like a reference from someone here.

Thanks in advance.   

[98valk]

Disclaimer; The following is my own statement and not from any other written source including the manufacturers product link to their product.

suggest you use DOT 4 LV.  has higher wet boiling point which means it extends change out from 2-3 yrs to 3-4 yrs, maybe longer in a low humidity environment than DOT 4. It also provide a firmer brake lever feel over a wider range of ambient temperatures.

Napa sells Pentosin DOT 4 LV and its in a metal can which extends self life. It is what I've used in all my vehicles for yrs.
 Funny you should ask, brake fluid is very hygroscopic and actually does absorb moisture in the ambient atmosphere right through the plastic container bottle. Read that over a decade ago so I don't know if they improved the plastic bottles or not to prevent that from happening. However top level brake fluid is still sold in metal cans.

https://crpautomotive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Pentosin-Product-Data-Sheet-Brake-Fluid-DOT-4-LV.pdf

[carolinarider09]

Disclaimer; The following is my own statement and not from any other written source including the manufacturers product link to their product.

suggest you use DOT 4 LV.  has higher wet boiling point which means it extends change out from 2-3 yrs to 3-4 yrs, maybe longer in a low humidity environment than DOT 4. It also provide a firmer brake lever feel over a wider range of ambient temperatures.

Napa sells Pentosin DOT 4 LV and its in a metal can which extends self life. It is what I've used in all my vehicles for yrs.
 Funny you should ask, brake fluid is very hygroscopic and actually does absorb moisture in the ambient atmosphere right through the plastic container bottle. Read that over a decade ago so I don't know if they improved the plastic bottles or not to prevent that from happening. However top level brake fluid is still sold in metal cans.

https://crpautomotive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Pentosin-Product-Data-Sheet-Brake-Fluid-DOT-4-LV.pdf

 

[Hook#3287]

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91Mrra7+HOL.pdf

Pages 21-22

Kinda confused on what your looking for.  You state you've used the Mityvac on your wing, but want direction to a good resource for directions on the Valk?

Anyways, above is from the Mityvac web-site and is a great resource.

Good luck.

[PSUbag]

I highly recommend Speed Bleeders. Makes the job a cinch.

[mello dude]

I highly recommend Speed Bleeders. Makes the job a cinch.

Definately I like Speed Bleeders, esspecially on the clutch line.  But also an alternate is the Motion Pro inline mini bleeder, very useful. I have used on my car too.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

[carolinarider09]

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91Mrra7+HOL.pdf

Pages 21-22

Kinda confused on what your looking for.  You state you've used the Mityvac on your wing, but want direction to a good resource for directions on the Valk?

Anyways, above is from the Mityvac web-site and is a great resource.

Good luck.

I guess I could have stated it better.  I don't remember the exact steps I did on the Wing with the Mityvac.  I may have had some DVDs that a gentlemen who frequents the GL1800 Riders Forum developed.  I was sort of hoping for a YouTube video reference.  I think I know the process but..... it's always nice to have some actual instructions. 

I will go out and see if those videos would work.  Process is probably close to the same but.. I just wanted some reassurance. 

[carolinarider09]

I highly recommend Speed Bleeders. Makes the job a cinch.

Definately I like Speed Bleeders, esspecially on the clutch line.  But also an alternate is the Motion Pro inline mini bleeder, very useful. I have used on my car too.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

That "check valve" thing may have crossed my mind one day but I was not aware someone actually had it going.  Cool.  I will have to get one just because its cools (but first I have to make sure I don't have one and forgot I purchased it)..... Old age is like that.

[RonW]

You can diy your own with a check valve & tubing but it's easier just buying a Speed Bleeder®. inventer's website.




These bags and vinyl tubing are available at the Speed Bleeder® website. The bags are reusable and very very handy.



The 'L' long bleeder (middle pic), is for people who won't install the nipple permanently on the caliper at the risk of the longer nipple getting knocked off. The threaded section is the same length for 125 & 125L. The right-most bleeder 125LL is for the clutch. The threaded section is longer and I don't think a bleeder would work on the clutch spout without a deeper threaded section.

[h13man]

I gravity bleed with assist of the levers being careful not to run dry for obvious reasons. DOT 4 is the spec fluid for all reservoirs. No issues in 15 yrs./3 bikes doing it this way. Slower but pretty much fail safe. When I bleed I "snap" the bleeder open/close quickly thus not allowing piston/pressure to bottom out so to speak. Clear hose on the bleeder the whole process to monitor the fluid.

[Chrisj CMA]

“Drain and Refill”  Don’t even say it that way. If you actually drain it first and then try to refill YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS

The easiest way is to suck all the old dirty fluid out of the master cylinder with a syringe (or similar) then use a q-tip to catch all the grime from the corners and edges. Then fill with clean fluid.  

AT THIS POINT YOU HAVE NOT SQUEEZED THE HANDLE

Now attach a hose to the bleeder that ends in a container with a little brake fluid in it.

NOW squeeze, open, close, release. Squeeze, open, close, release. Keep the master cylinder full and repeat until clear fluid comes out. BOOM. EASY

[Willow]

What Chrisj said.   

[f-Stop]

Yep, I'll second that → "What Chrisj said." 

[mello dude]

The easiest way is to suck all the old dirty fluid out of the master cylinder with a syringe (or similar) then use a q-tip to catch all the grime from the corners and edges. Then fill with clean fluid.  

I have a turkey baster I use for this job, and do it every spring. Then every other year or 2nd year, do the full bleed out.

[RonW]

Agreed don't let the reservoir run dry. That's an advantage of reverse bleeding, I suppose. Also, discard any cloth with brake fluid on it. I reused a rag with brake fluid on it, and even with the brake fluid dried up after several months, the fluid residue still reactivated and took off paint before my very eyeballs to my absolute horror, well the alledged rag just so happened to be within easy reach, moral being don't keep a rag with old brake fluid on it within a mile of your bike.

[carolinarider09]

“Drain and Refill”  Don’t even say it that way. If you actually drain it first and then try to refill YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS

The easiest way is to suck all the old dirty fluid out of the master cylinder with a syringe (or similar) then use a q-tip to catch all the grime from the corners and edges. Then fill with clean fluid.  

AT THIS POINT YOU HAVE NOT SQUEEZED THE HANDLE

Now attach a hose to the bleeder that ends in a container with a little brake fluid in it.

NOW squeeze, open, close, release. Squeeze, open, close, release. Keep the master cylinder full and repeat until clear fluid comes out. BOOM. EASY

 

[carolinarider09]

“Drain and Refill”  Don’t even say it that way. If you actually drain it first and then try to refill YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS

The easiest way is to suck all the old dirty fluid out of the master cylinder with a syringe (or similar) then use a q-tip to catch all the grime from the corners and edges. Then fill with clean fluid.  

AT THIS POINT YOU HAVE NOT SQUEEZED THE HANDLE

Now attach a hose to the bleeder that ends in a container with a little brake fluid in it.

NOW squeeze, open, close, release. Squeeze, open, close, release. Keep the master cylinder full and repeat until clear fluid comes out. BOOM. EASY

I sort of did the above.  I decided to use the Mighty Vac again.   I fired it up to make sure I remembered how it worked.  Went to the store and got some Synthetic DOT-4 brake fluid, some paper towels (I have some but always like to keep ahead of the curve), and some cotton swabs.

Only did the front brakes. 

Opened the reservoir for the front brake (after some confusion) and sucked it almost dry, leaving just a little at the bottom.  removed the little metal "thingy", forgot what its called, at the bottom and then cleaned the reservoir with the swabs. 

One of the main reasons I wanted to do this was to clean the little sight glass on the front (well the back) of the reservoir.   It was really hard to see the level.  The stain was a red color and after a lot of work, nothing much changed.  So.... I will have to see what else might be doable.

Put the title metal thing back in the reservoir and filled the reservoir with DOT-4, connected the Mighty Vac and proceeded to suck fluid through the right and then left caliper all the while keeping the reservoir full. 

Put the innards back inside the reservoir and put the cover back on.  We shall see.

Tomorrow the rear brake and the clutch.  Probably the clutch first.

[2KVISRiderDan]

I use speedbleeders and do it using Chrisj's method but without having to open & close the bleeder each time you pump the lever. Much quicker for one person when you have the speedbleeder.

[carolinarider09]

I use speedbleeders and do it using Chrisj's method but without having to open & close the bleeder each time you pump the lever. Much quicker for one person when you have the speedbleeder.

It's the same with the Mighty Vac.  You connect to the bleeder, turn on the air (in my case an Ingersoll Rand air compressor), open the bleeder and you get constant suction.  Just have to keep the reservoir full.  And you can throttle the air on the Vac to slow the flow.

I did get the speed bleeder (I think that was the one mentioned above) but in looking at the connecting tubbing I would have had to do some more stuff to make it work.  The Mighty Vac was already configured.

The only issue with the Vac, is that the connection to the bleeder can get a little loose depending on where the bleeder is located.  I suspect I do waste a lot more brake fluid doing it my way.

[mello dude]

I use speedbleeders and do it using Chrisj's method but without having to open & close the bleeder each time you pump the lever. Much quicker for one person when you have the speedbleeder.

It's the same with the Mighty Vac.  You connect to the bleeder, turn on the air (in my case an Ingersoll Rand air compressor), open the bleeder and you get constant suction.  Just have to keep the reservoir full.  And you can throttle the air on the Vac to slow the flow.

I did get the speed bleeder (I think that was the one mentioned above) but in looking at the connecting tubbing I would have had to do some more stuff to make it work.  The Mighty Vac was already configured.

The only issue with the Vac, is that the connection to the bleeder can get a little loose depending on where the bleeder is located.  I suspect I do waste a lot more brake fluid doing it my way.

Curiousity kills the cat... waht version of Mity Vac do you have that uses compressed air? 

[Chrisj CMA]

I use speedbleeders and do it using Chrisj's method but without having to open & close the bleeder each time you pump the lever. Much quicker for one person when you have the speedbleeder.

Exactly, me too. But I didn’t think the OP had speed bleeders

[carolinarider09]

Curiousity kills the cat... waht version of Mity Vac do you have that uses compressed air? 

It says, on the manual I have on line. Mityvac. MV6830.  And yes, I keep thinking it was Mighty Vac but it is Mityvac

Basically you connect the air line to the vac bottle and then attach the "drains" to the bike.  The air creates a vacuum via the Venturi effect.   It does use a lot to air but.... it does have a push valve to control how much air you use.

Actually it's pretty cool to use.   

[carolinarider09]

I completed the task today.  Did both the front brakes, the rear brake, and the clutch.   Drained each reservoir using the Mityvac, leaving a little in the bottom to maintain some semblance of a liquid seal, cleaned them with the cotton swabs, trying not to get any cotton left behind and then refilled them.

Attaching the Mityvac to the bleeders and opening the bleeders allows the vac to pull the fluid down.  You just have to make sure the reservoir is maintained full.   

So, will have to take it out for a ride tomorrow and see how things work out. 

I already did the Goldwing last year when I had an "issue" changing the pads.   I have done the ST1300 at least once in the past (why I got the Mityvac).   

As I said elsewhere I was not really concerned with the brake/clutch operation on the Valkyrie I just did not like the dirty reservoir "sigth glasses".   And I only got one clean enough to easily see the fluid Level.

Turns out the rear brake reservoir was not really that dirty but it got cleaned anyway.   

[carolinarider09]

Pictures of the Mityvac being used on the wing.   I did not take any when I did the same work on the Valkyrie.

[Big Rig]

PATIENCE!!!!! Lots and lots of patience...also the banjo fitting for the clutch, loosen it will hold a bubble...back to top....

Good luck