Hydrolock Concern

[Invetteve]

OK brand new member and first post so please be kind. 

I purchased a 1997 Valk at auction. It has sat for many (?) years. Tank is bad, Carbs are bad. Brakes are bad. Tires bad. No battery. Needs much TLC ... other than that it is good to go!

I am sending my carb set to Valkyrie Flat Six (VFS) soon for rebuild.  As part of that they will install an electric shutoff valve and fuel filters. I am also purchasing from VFS a ventless Honda replacement petcock (orig also bad, yeah!).

I am cleaning tank already ... mostly done to good level.

I have desmog ... removed all parts and JB Welded plugs top & bottom to seal. I am thinking that is complete except I will need to run tubing from 3 to 4 carb and possibly seal 6 or ? that ran from petcock vent.

Once above is complete I want to install carbs set, tank & stuff to start the engine ... no idea if will run but although this is my first Valk I have owned GW's and engine is usually good to go ... except this hydrolock issue.

I also did oil, oil filter, coolant, rear end fluid, and spark plugs.

Should I remove spark plugs before starting for first time?  Any way to know whether hydrolock has already happened without trying to turn over and waiting for clunk noise? Anything else I need to do before first crank? Other than prayer?

Any help or advice is appreciated.  VFS/SixPackMan has been great help for this newbie but I don't want to overwhelm him with probs.

Thanks for your time!

[98valk]

Fuel filters?  there is one in the tank and all that is needed.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Generally speaking in a hydro lock experience the gears driven by the starters are broke. You can remove the starter and look down in there to see if that has happened.

[f-Stop]

Howdy Invetteve!

Sounds like you're on the right track.  One thing to think of while you have the carbs out would be to adjust the valves and maybe go ahead and replace the timing belts.  You'd be removing the plugs to do those procedures. 

Also, I think that with freshly re-built carbs and an electric cut-off fuel valve you won't have a hydro-lock issue.

One more thing to consider would be to replace your wheel bearings.  The '97 Valks had smaller sized rear bearings and have a tendency to wear out kinda quick. 

Anyway, good luck and hopefully you can post some pics of your new ride soon!

 

[Willow]

...
Should I remove spark plugs before starting for first time?  Any way to know whether hydrolock has already happened without trying to turn over and waiting for clunk noise? Anything else I need to do before first crank? Other than prayer?
...

I think your responders have not paid attention to your question. 

What you are doing should certainly remove the possibility of a future hydrolock.  What you're not knowing is whether the fluid is already in the cylinder(s).  Yes, removing the plugs before turning over the engine will answer that question.

Also if you just tap the starter it will go into lock with no damage if hydrolock is there but I do like your suggestion of removing the plugs to be absolutely sure.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Howdy Invetteve!

Sounds like you're on the right track.  One thing to think of while you have the carbs out would be to adjust the valves and maybe go ahead and replace the timing belts.  You'd be removing the plugs to do those procedures. 

Also, I think that with freshly re-built carbs and an electric cut-off fuel valve you won't have a hydro-lock issue.

One more thing to consider would be to replace your wheel bearings.  The '97 Valks had smaller sized rear bearings and have a tendency to wear out kinda quick. 

Anyway, good luck and hopefully you can post some pics of your new ride soon!

 

I think it was the front wheel bearings that were smaller on the 97’s. I also got the impression he was more concerned about a possible previous hydro lock.

[f-Stop]

↑ Thanks of the correction.  ↑

[John Schmidt]

If you're desmogging I'm not sure why you need the lines at #3 & 4. Once you remove the PAIR valve unit there is no need for anything but #6 for the petcock if OEM. Just cap everything off, including #6 since you're going manual on the petcock. Plus, I'd turn the motor over by hand first and yes...pull the plugs first.

[Mooskee]

Yes. Pull the plugs and turn it over. Best done outside so if cylinders are full of fuel,  it won't spray all over your garage.

What F6 is doing will prevent future hydrolock. He removes the vacuum function from the petcock and replaces your float needle valves, and adds a fuel shutoff solenoid.

If you desmog correctly, you will be removing the PAIR valves, and F6 is removing the vacuum hose for #6. You can cap all the intake nipples. What I do is use 5mm bolts and crush washers in place of the vacuum nipples. Store the nipples for when you need to sync the carbs again, if ever. I store mine in the back of the battery box.

The last thing is do not be afraid to ask Wilder or Jared any questions. They are in business to rebuild carbs and modify Valkyries. They are also friendly guys that like answering your questions. I know when I am doing this work for clients, I spend a lot of time answering questions and keeping them updated on progress. I don't mind at all.

[Jims99]

Another simple but necessary step. Don’t use cheap vacuum caps. The automotive caps dry out and crack easily. Before riding to much, you’ll also want to check rear end. When you pull off back wheel, need to check and regrease splines. There are differences between the Valkyrie and the wings. You’ll figure them out as you go.  There is no fuel pump, keep the fuel lines as straight and short as possible. Once she’s running good, you’re going to love riding again.

[topgunfs]

Welcome to the VRCC !! There is a great deal of experience here and you seem to be more knowledgable than a new owner.  My Valkyrie is also a 97, mine for 26 years.
A few suggestions, first a question, is yours a California DeSmog, if it is they are slightly different.  Valkyrie tanks are prone to corrosionespecially  if you store with the poor quality of fuel we have these days, consider purchasing 5 gal of aviation fuel as it will not attract H20 or form the waxy goo that ethanol blends do.
definately remove the plugs, check the valves and replace all fluids including brake fluid.
You may need a vacuum line to the air solinoid valve that connects the right and left air channels.
When you get  the carbs serviced , make sure they test or replace the air cut off valves as they go bad after 10 to 20 years. 
Enjoy the ride once your done, good luck.

[Invetteve]

I have some good news. I pulled the starter today and the flywheel and starter gear teeth look great.

Now I am waiting on carbs to return from VFS/six pack. Probably by end of February. I will be interested to know how bad they are inside. If anything like the tank, the gas is no longer gas.  The gas turned into very foul smelling molasses ... A chemical transformation I had not seen before. 
Desmog done.
Not continuing with further work other than some cleanup of everything. If she runs than get into brakes, clutch drain, tires, and spline review.
Thanks for everyone's input.

[Chrisj CMA]

While you are waiting for the carbs. It would be good to verify (if you haven’t already) that the vent tube at the rear of the tank is clear. If that is clogged the bike will hardly run and not for long