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Gearhead24
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« Reply #40 on: February 19, 2024, 02:34:50 PM » |
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I’ll be sure to keep that in mind. My plan was to route the hoses and valve so that the valve rests on the same spot that the emission system used to mount to. For now I’ll most likely use zip ties to secure it but in the future I’ll figure out something more refined
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #41 on: February 21, 2024, 07:28:07 PM » |
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So far I’ve got almost everything put back together. Wingrider, you were right, the valve was too big to fit where I had it. I found screw holes on the bottom of the valve and mounted it to the top of the rear stay plate on the carburetors. This ended up running into the air box but I already had the valve in and lines ran so the air box had to compromise. Cut around it to fit everything, but if mounted upside down it would work without any cutting I was just too lazy to take the carbs back out. All that’s needed right now is to put exhaust back on, fuel tank, and wire in the valve. I just need to find a wire that’s constant 12v when the key is on to splice into. My 6into6 pipes are filthy as all hell but I put a polishing pad on my grinder and got one of them to shine nicely. Took 2 hours and most of my polish so I’m debating putting on the stock exhaust for now. Hoping the motor will turn over tomorrow
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« Reply #42 on: February 21, 2024, 07:33:29 PM » |
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So far I’ve got almost everything put back together. Wingrider, you were right, the valve was too big to fit where I had it. I found screw holes on the bottom of the valve and mounted it to the top of the rear stay plate on the carburetors. This ended up running into the air box but I already had the valve in and lines ran so the air box had to compromise. Cut around it to fit everything, but if mounted upside down it would work without any cutting I was just too lazy to take the carbs back out. All that’s needed right now is to put exhaust back on, fuel tank, and wire in the valve. I just need to find a wire that’s constant 12v when the key is on to splice into. My 6into6 pipes are filthy as all hell but I put a polishing pad on my grinder and got one of them to shine nicely. Took 2 hours and most of my polish so I’m debating putting on the stock exhaust for now. Hoping the motor will turn over tomorrow
There is an accessory plug under the right side panel. It’s on with the key, rated at 5 amps, which is plenty for the fuel shutoff. |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #43 on: February 23, 2024, 04:24:29 PM » |
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I think I found that plug, it’s a light green/red wire and a green wire both on single bullet connectors right? I’ll hook that up in the next couple days, accidentally shorted the valve while trying to test it since all I have is black wire. Getting a new one sent that should be here tomorrow. Will update when there’s news
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« Reply #44 on: February 23, 2024, 07:00:15 PM » |
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I think I found that plug, it’s a light green/red wire and a green wire both on single bullet connectors right? I’ll hook that up in the next couple days, accidentally shorted the valve while trying to test it since all I have is black wire. Getting a new one sent that should be here tomorrow. Will update when there’s news
Its been so long, I honestly don’t remember the colors. But if they are unused wires with female ends encased under a rubber boot, that is likely them. I’d check them with the key on and off to verify. |
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ridingron
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« Reply #45 on: February 24, 2024, 01:53:57 PM » |
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I think I found that plug, it’s a light green/red wire and a green wire both on single bullet connectors right? I’ll hook that up in the next couple days, accidentally shorted the valve while trying to test it since all I have is black wire. Getting a new one sent that should be here tomorrow. Will update when there’s news
Its been so long, I honestly don’t remember the colors. But if they are unused wires with female ends encased under a rubber boot, that is likely them. I’d check them with the key on and off to verify. I would check them on and off with a meter not the pump.  |
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« Reply #46 on: February 24, 2024, 05:04:09 PM » |
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I think I found that plug, it’s a light green/red wire and a green wire both on single bullet connectors right? I’ll hook that up in the next couple days, accidentally shorted the valve while trying to test it since all I have is black wire. Getting a new one sent that should be here tomorrow. Will update when there’s news
Its been so long, I honestly don’t remember the colors. But if they are unused wires with female ends encased under a rubber boot, that is likely them. I’d check them with the key on and off to verify. I would check them on and off with a meter not the pump.
correct, I should have been more specific. |
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Joe333x
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« Reply #47 on: February 24, 2024, 10:06:28 PM » |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #48 on: February 25, 2024, 11:51:39 AM » |
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Unfortunately I can’t see the pic, it just takes me to the main Facebook page. These two are the only two unused wires on the right side so I would guess that’s it, but none of my meters pick up any voltage. Already checked and replaced fuses and checked continuity for both wires. Ground is good and the light green/red is good from the plug to the fuse box where there is power coming in there. I just can’t seem to get a good reading on the plug end. The only stable reading I get is on dc setting touching the green to the engine reads 7.8v. That’s the only reading that’s consistent. Every other combo just gets readings all over the place
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« Reply #49 on: February 25, 2024, 12:12:29 PM » |
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Unfortunately I can’t see the pic, it just takes me to the main Facebook page. These two are the only two unused wires on the right side so I would guess that’s it, but none of my meters pick up any voltage. Already checked and replaced fuses and checked continuity for both wires. Ground is good and the light green/red is good from the plug to the fuse box where there is power coming in there. I just can’t seem to get a good reading on the plug end. The only stable reading I get is on dc setting touching the green to the engine reads 7.8v. That’s the only reading that’s consistent. Every other combo just gets readings all over the place
Maybe this will help. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,33087.0.html |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #50 on: February 25, 2024, 12:27:43 PM » |
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Thanks, and yeah those are the wires I was looking at. Just tried cranking the bike for a couple minutes and I think it’s safe to say for this application this valve is worthless. Not even a drop in the carbs which tells me it’s not getting past the valve. Got everything wired up right and even tried touching the leads right to the battery while cranking and I still got nothing. Gonna go get some new fuel line and rip out this valve. Maybe in the future I’ll look into getting an inline pump
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« Reply #51 on: February 25, 2024, 01:20:54 PM » |
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Thanks, and yeah those are the wires I was looking at. Just tried cranking the bike for a couple minutes and I think it’s safe to say for this application this valve is worthless. Not even a drop in the carbs which tells me it’s not getting past the valve. Got everything wired up right and even tried touching the leads right to the battery while cranking and I still got nothing. Gonna go get some new fuel line and rip out this valve. Maybe in the future I’ll look into getting an inline pump
What fuel shutoff did you get ? |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #52 on: February 25, 2024, 04:45:09 PM » |
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I got it from Amazon sold by US Solid. Their valve comes with limited instructions and it states that their valves need pressure to actuate. I think the angle of the fuel line doesn’t allow for any pressure to build up while initially fueling. If I get a fuel pump it should act the same way as the valve while also pushing the fuel to the carbs
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #53 on: February 25, 2024, 07:47:53 PM » |
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I got it from Amazon sold by US Solid. Their valve comes with limited instructions and it states that their valves need pressure to actuate. I think the angle of the fuel line doesn’t allow for any pressure to build up while initially fueling. If I get a fuel pump it should act the same way as the valve while also pushing the fuel to the carbs
I don’t know about doing that. Seems like a lot of unnecessary stuff to go wrong. This is the fuel shutoff I’ve been using for many years without one problem. https://12voltfuelvalves.com/product/12-volt-14-orifice-multi-purpose-shut-off-valve/ |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #54 on: February 25, 2024, 07:53:19 PM » |
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Down the road I’ll get one of those. For the meantime I just ripped out the valve and ran a new line straight to the tank. Did a lot of cranking and got a couple of sputters so I’m letting the battery recharge and will get back to it in about half an hour
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #55 on: February 25, 2024, 09:39:57 PM » |
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After getting everything reset I finally got the bike to run for a second. Even with choke pulled all the way it was running slow and the air vent tubes (3way tubes on the topside of the carbs) started puking fuel. At first I couldn’t tell what was doing it but I hooked up a hose to each one leading out of the bike and it was pouring out good. I tried posting a video of it running but the website freaked out on me
UPDATE: Just removed the air box and tried it again and it fired right up and sounded great (at least to me). Not too sure how removing the air box worked but it did and I won’t question it.
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« Last Edit: February 25, 2024, 09:52:37 PM by Gearhead24 »
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ridingron
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« Reply #56 on: February 25, 2024, 11:01:39 PM » |
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I've lost track of all you've done and what is still in place. If you have the stock fuel valve in place, it is operated by vacuum. It takes a bit of turning over to keep the valve open and fill 6 carbs (if they were empty).
As for the air box, unkinked a tube? Enough fuel got to the carbs to start and run (coincidental timing)?
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #57 on: February 25, 2024, 11:29:42 PM » |
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Sorry for being all over the place but in summary. The stock petcock is still in place but this bike sat outside for idk how long so I don’t really trust it. Tried putting an electric valve on but it was too big and didn’t work with the angle of the fuel line. Got rid of it and was able to barely get the motor to turn over. Took out the air box and it fired right up and sounded good on throttle
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #58 on: February 27, 2024, 04:36:38 PM » |
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Been running the bike on and off the last two days hoping I can clear the engine out. Even with the garage door open all the way my garage still gets filled with smoke so I can't run it for too long. At this point the left bank does not smoke at all anymore except when it's cold, right bank is smoking like crazy. Initially both carb banks were leaking fuel only when running with the petcock set to open, then the left side stopped leaking and only carb 3 leaks now under the same condition. I tried turning the petcock off and letting the bike run out of fuel but it just wasn't happening. I'll be ordering a cbr600 petcock as soon as I'm done writing this, and will be taking the carbs off to inspect that #3. I'm curious as to how the SE valve works differently from a traditional choke. I was wondering why my idle was so low and I found out I don't have a throttle stop screw to adjust my idle. Hopefully by next week I can start road tests
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #59 on: March 03, 2024, 10:59:37 AM » |
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Fuel is no longer leaking, but it is pouring out of the carb vent tube whenever the gas is set on and the bike is running. If it’s a float valve sticking, could a hammer and a stick giving light taps to the side of the carb do anything to unstick it?
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« Reply #60 on: March 03, 2024, 01:24:20 PM » |
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Fuel is no longer leaking, but it is pouring out of the carb vent tube whenever the gas is set on and the bike is running. If it’s a float valve sticking, could a hammer and a stick giving light taps to the side of the carb do anything to unstick it?
Yes, it could. But, would you trust it, is the issue. |
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« Last Edit: March 03, 2024, 05:00:44 PM by The emperor has no clothes »
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #61 on: March 04, 2024, 10:48:40 AM » |
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Fuel is no longer leaking, but it is pouring out of the carb vent tube whenever the gas is set on and the bike is running. If it’s a float valve sticking, could a hammer and a stick giving light taps to the side of the carb do anything to unstick it?
Yes, it could. But, would you trust it, is the issue. Didn’t try it. Just went ahead and removed the carbs yet again. Upon inspection of the float bowls, the #6 float had broken in two and the valve was almost completely out of its hole. I saw another thread on here about this situation but there wasn’t a definite answer between the carb floats or the petcock being the cause. My petcock should be fine. I tore it open and cleaned everything and put it back together, now it won’t flow unless there’s vacuum. Tried hooking it up without the vacuum line and I killed my battery cranking forever without a drop in the carbs. Don’t know when the new peacock will show up but I’ve got new taillights coming today and as soon as new floats get here I should be doing road tests |
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« Last Edit: March 04, 2024, 10:52:20 AM by Gearhead24 »
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #62 on: March 10, 2024, 01:33:15 PM » |
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I don't believe I read anywhere that you had a Service Manual yet?
I run with both a PDF gotten from online, and a paper copy for my trips.
I know you're past it now, but it would show the vacuum hose routing, along with a bunch other things.
I wasn't fully reading your posts, I'm just trying to catch up on missed posts, but it seems you have a fuel delivery issue.
Do you still have the stock OEM vacuum petcock? If so, you can manually pull (such) a vacuum to let fuel through, or even take a bigger step and reverse the petcock diaphram to a manual operation for testing.
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« Last Edit: March 10, 2024, 01:36:26 PM by gordonv »
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #63 on: March 11, 2024, 02:53:40 PM » |
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I do have a service manual. I got a pdf copy before I signed up here. The peacock is still OEMbut I have one from a cbr in the mail but that may have gotten lost because it’s taking way too long to get here. OEM still works for the meantime but the last issue I had was fuel coming out through the air vent tubes in the carburetor. The bike has no problem running on any rpm with an open choke, but fuel is dumping out of that hose. If I’m having a fuel delivery issue then the issue is too much fuel is being delivered. Opened the carbs again and the #6 float has broken completely. I ordered a new float from partzilla (thought to be reliable) and just got it today to find it was completely the wrong part. This new float is far heavier and bigger than the oem, it won’t even fit in the carb body.
Really disappointed because I ordered this part a week ago, it said it was in stock, paid extra for fast shipping, took an entire business week just to process the order, just for it to be worthless to me. Was hoping I could’ve actually ridden this thing today but maybe next week.
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16590
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #64 on: March 11, 2024, 07:22:19 PM » |
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... OEM still works for the meantime but the last issue I had was fuel coming out through the air vent tubes in the carburetor.
...
Once more, if you have fuel flowing out of the "vent tubes" the issue is not with the petcock. |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #65 on: March 12, 2024, 03:09:08 PM » |
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... OEM still works for the meantime but the last issue I had was fuel coming out through the air vent tubes in the carburetor.
...
Once more, if you have fuel flowing out of the "vent tubes" the issue is not with the petcock. I know that. I’m changing out the petcock because personally I hate the vacuum safety/operation of it, along with decreasing the chance of another hydrolock. Those two reasons are the only reasons why I’m changing that. I guess I could’ve worded it better but in my last post I was simply trying to say that the amount of fuel in getting in the carbs proves I don’t actually have a delivery issue like GordonV was suggestin. Tomorrow I am going to the closest Honda power sports dealer to get a new float since the one I received yesterday doesn’t work. Most likely I’ll be busy until Sunday with work picking up again so hopefully I can get everything put back together then |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #66 on: March 12, 2024, 03:36:29 PM » |
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... OEM still works for the meantime but the last issue I had was fuel coming out through the air vent tubes in the carburetor.
...
Once more, if you have fuel flowing out of the "vent tubes" the issue is not with the petcock. I know that. I’m changing out the petcock because personally I hate the vacuum safety/operation of it, along with decreasing the chance of another hydrolock. Those two reasons are the only reasons why I’m changing that. I guess I could’ve worded it better but in my last post I was simply trying to say that the amount of fuel in getting in the carbs proves I don’t actually have a delivery issue like GordonV was suggestin. Tomorrow I am going to the closest Honda power sports dealer to get a new float since the one I received yesterday doesn’t work. Most likely I’ll be busy until Sunday with work picking up again so hopefully I can get everything put back together then I hope you ordered it ahead of time. The chances of them having one in stock is pretty slim. |
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ridingron
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« Reply #67 on: March 12, 2024, 09:04:05 PM » |
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[/quote]I hope you ordered it ahead of time. The chances of them having one in stock is pretty slim. [/quote] WOW!!! "pretty slim"? That has got to be the most optimistic post I think I have read on this forum!  |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #68 on: March 15, 2024, 04:38:35 PM » |
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Turns out they didn’t have it in stock but a dealer in Southern California had it and they shipped it up. Glad to finally have the right part. I’ll be reinstalling everything and if this new float fixes me fuel overflow (99% sure but you never know for sure) then I’ll finally be able to test ride it
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #69 on: March 16, 2024, 06:30:01 PM » |
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Update. No more fuel leak, air vent tube is dry and everything is good now. The last thing I got to do before I ride is bleed the clutch. However this is my first hydraulic clutch, all my other bikes had cable clutch. I found the bleed valve on the backside between the starter and the alternator, but I’m not sure how a hydraulic is supposed to feel. Right now it doesn’t have much of any pressure but is pushing fluid out of the bleed valve
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #70 on: March 16, 2024, 06:39:55 PM » |
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Update. No more fuel leak, air vent tube is dry and everything is good now. The last thing I got to do before I ride is bleed the clutch. However this is my first hydraulic clutch, all my other bikes had cable clutch. I found the bleed valve on the backside between the starter and the alternator, but I’m not sure how a hydraulic is supposed to feel. Right now it doesn’t have much of any pressure but is pushing fluid out of the bleed valve
It’s going to be the same procedure as bleeding the brakes. |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #71 on: March 16, 2024, 07:24:35 PM » |
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I saw that in the manual and have been at it for about 40 minutes of pumping and quick bleeding but I can still see bubbles rise up in the master cylinder. The last test I did had no clutch. I tried putting the bike in first with the clutch pulled and it stalled right away. It has a little bit of pressure on the handle, if I had to guess I’d say maybe 5 lbs of pressure
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« Reply #72 on: March 16, 2024, 08:21:11 PM » |
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I saw that in the manual and have been at it for about 40 minutes of pumping and quick bleeding but I can still see bubbles rise up in the master cylinder. The last test I did had no clutch. I tried putting the bike in first with the clutch pulled and it stalled right away. It has a little bit of pressure on the handle, if I had to guess I’d say maybe 5 lbs of pressure
You may have a leaking slave cylinder. |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #73 on: March 16, 2024, 09:18:30 PM » |
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I finally got pressure to build up and now the clutch handle is heavy to pull but the bike still stalls out. I checked the oil and the level is good but I haven't done an oil change yet since getting the bike so I'm not sure if any additives are in it. The only serious thing I'm worried about is the plates being warped but id rather explore the slave cylinder. Once I got good pressure in the handle, trying to put the bike in gear still stalled but no longer jerked the bike. Will be looking into the slave cylinder tomorrow, maybe a couple good Orings and a cleaning will get it back in action.
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #74 on: March 18, 2024, 09:24:26 AM » |
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I read somewhere else on this forum that tying the clutch handle overnight might work so I tried that. Let it sit all day and night yesterday. Just closed up the master cylinder and untied the handle, now the clutch works as it’s supposed to. No fluid leaks from the slave cylinder either
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #75 on: March 18, 2024, 03:35:25 PM » |
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Lurching when putting in gear? If not, kick stand switch may be killing it if not working correctly. Bike won't run with bike in gear if kick stand switch indicates kick stand down.  |
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #76 on: March 21, 2024, 06:33:19 PM » |
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The problem was that there was still a lot of air inside the slave cylinder. I had the clutch handle tied for a whole 24 hours after I was getting good pressure at the bleed valve. Clutch works great now, I actually need to adjust my idle down a good bit.
Work picked up again so it’s been a busy week, finally got time to ride but I just went to the gas station to fill up and back. Ultimately, I love this bike and yet I am terrified of it. I wouldn’t say I am an experienced rider at all and now I know that you need experience to handle this beast. I’ve gotten so used to my old and slow pos truck that being taken back by the throttle is almost a new feeling to me. Did accidentally biff once but crash bars saved it with no damage. Signing up to get a license right now
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16590
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #77 on: March 21, 2024, 07:48:36 PM » |
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In our area there are motorcycle riding classes offered over a weekend at a couple of community colleges. That may help if you need it. A Valkyrie is generally not a good starter bike.
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Gearhead24
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« Reply #78 on: March 21, 2024, 08:09:30 PM » |
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Yeah I just signed up for one next week, mostly to get the license easier but to also get me back into riding. The biggest bike I had before was a 78 Honda cb400, rode it a lot but entirely different. Just need to get it out a few more times to get it. Speed is new to me lol
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #79 on: March 21, 2024, 08:12:12 PM » |
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Yeah I just signed up for one next week, mostly to get the license easier but to also get me back into riding. The biggest bike I had before was a 78 Honda cb400, rode it a lot but entirely different. Just need to get it out a few more times to get it. Speed is new to me lol
Be careful. Practice your emergency stopping. |
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