Enrichers

[Peteg]

So I tend not to use my enrichers. I live in North Texas and my shop tends to stay above 40 degrees even on very cold nights. The bike tends to start cold or hot first time every time. If anything the enrichers seem to make the first start of the day a little more difficult, so on my bike I arrived at don't use them at all. So my mileage started dropping; pulled my plugs badly fouled; and I noticed my enricher linkages were no longer seated. So I tied the linkages shut with zip ties - problem solved, as I don't use them anyway. Before I tied them off, I tried to make them come unseated by turning my handle bars full lock both ways, but they stayed closed. My question is, is it normal for enrichers to come off seat while riding? If so is there a recommended solution?

That ends my RFI and serious post. If you've ever lain awake at night wondering if Honda got the little arrow pointed in the right direction on your handle bar choke lever; maybe wondering if Honda got the cold start procedure correct in the operating manual, or possibly were wondering what would happen if you rode around with your enrichers open all day long, you may want to read on. So when I realized my enrichers were hanging open. I immediately went out and bought new plugs and tied my enrichers wide open. Hadn't used the enrichers in almost a year but I was sure how they worked. Why would I look at Honda's labeling??? With the new plugs the bike actually ran ok except it wouldn't idle. Tended to hang at 1500 rpm's then finally try to settle around 400 or 500 rpms. So this was actually pretty logical to me. I really killed a lot of brain cells back in the 70's. I assumed I was chasing 2 issues, the first being my enrichers stuck on & fouled plugs, and the second being a fouled idle jet or 2, hiding out behind the stuck open enrichers. So I logically gassed up and added seafoam to the tank and tried to clean those slow jets. It wasn't until I stopped for gas and calculated 25 mpg that I realized I had tied the enrichers open. So my advise is, if your plugs are fouled,  your mileage drops by 10 mpg, and you have a nasty hanging idle, check to make sure your enrichers aren't wide open.

[WintrSol]

I adjusted mine so that they don't move until the lever is pushed nearly all the way down, but still reach full open position, on both banks. Never had a problem with them moving when I didn't push the lever down. I also made sure they were properly lubed, so they slide easily back to the 'home' position.

[Timbo1]

So I tend not to use my enrichers. I live in North Texas and my shop tends to stay above 40 degrees even on very cold nights. The bike tends to start cold or hot first time every time. If anything the enrichers seem to make the first start of the day a little more difficult, so on my bike I arrived at don't use them at all. So my mileage started dropping; pulled my plugs badly fouled; and I noticed my enricher linkages were no longer seated. So I tied the linkages shut with zip ties - problem solved, as I don't use them anyway. Before I tied them off, I tried to make them come unseated by turning my handle bars full lock both ways, but they stayed closed. My question is, is it normal for enrichers to come off seat while riding? If so is there a recommended solution?

That ends my RFI and serious post. If you've ever lain awake at night wondering if Honda got the little arrow pointed in the right direction on your handle bar choke lever; maybe wondering if Honda got the cold start procedure correct in the operating manual, or possibly were wondering what would happen if you rode around with your enrichers open all day long, you may want to read on. So when I realized my enrichers were hanging open. I immediately went out and bought new plugs and tied my enrichers wide open. Hadn't used the enrichers in almost a year but I was sure how they worked. Why would I look at Honda's labeling??? With the new plugs the bike actually ran ok except it wouldn't idle. Tended to hang at 1500 rpm's then finally try to settle around 400 or 500 rpms. So this was actually pretty logical to me. I really killed a lot of brain cells back in the 70's. I assumed I was chasing 2 issues, the first being my enrichers stuck on & fouled plugs, and the second being a fouled idle jet or 2, hiding out behind the stuck open enrichers. So I logically gassed up and added seafoam to the tank and tried to clean those slow jets. It wasn't until I stopped for gas and calculated 25 mpg that I realized I had tied the enrichers open. So my advise is, if your plugs are fouled,  your mileage drops by 10 mpg, and you have a nasty hanging idle, check to make sure your enrichers aren't wide open.

Where did the linkage become unseated?  Having a hard time understanding what it is / was that became unseated. 

The enrichers are controlled via the cable attached to a plate that slides onto each individual enricher and is captive by the end caps of each enricher, 3 per side.  Those plates slide forward and rearward when the Choke is pushed up or down.  There are two bolts that hold down the plates with plastic spacers somewhat clinching the plate but allowing them to move forward and rearward to operate the enrichers. 

The linkage as far as I recall the end barrels are also captive by the design of the plate and length of the cable where it attaches to the plate and is not able to become unseated unless the cable attachment point is unsecured.   There are also small return springs under the slide plate that assists in closing the enrichers. 

The only way I can think of the enrichers becoming unseated is if the bolts holding the plates in place have come loose or come out.

[Jess from VA]

Lube is generally good, but on the choke (enrichener) cables, it can lead to the cable slipping back off full choke, so it has to be held down with your thumb to work properly.   

[Peteg]

Timbo, based on the responses I'm getting, my question is pretty well answered. My enricher linkage is working normally as you describe it should.

So when I'm referring to unseated - I'm indicating that the slide plates, held on by two plastic sleeved screws that allow them to slide until they stop at travel slot end - I found them no longer at the end of the slot.  I also noticed when I pushed the choke lever full on or off the slide bars would move to end of travel slot in opposite directions and stay that way even when I turned the handle bar full lock. So linkage working correctly, but when I noted my mileage / fouling issues the slot screws were not at full closed position. My mileage had been dropping off for about 4 months and I had not used or looked at the enrichers at all.

During that 4 months I removed and reinstalled the handle bars without removing any cables.  I also squeeze by the bike a lot in my shop to get to storage. So either everything is right on the bike and I'm the enricher ghost, or maybe I'm missing the small return springs. I specifically looked for springs when  I removed the cover plate and zip tied the the slide bars in the closed position, but my guess is I missed them since they are under the slide bar.

Thanks for your input.

[Timbo1]

Timbo, based on the responses I'm getting, my question is pretty well answered. My enricher linkage is working normally as you describe it should.

So when I'm referring to unseated - I'm indicating that the slide plates, held on by two plastic sleeved screws that allow them to slide until they stop at travel slot end - I found them no longer at the end of the slot.  I also noticed when I pushed the choke lever full on or off the slide bars would move to end of travel slot in opposite directions and stay that way even when I turned the handle bar full lock. So linkage working correctly, but when I noted my mileage / fouling issues the slot screws were not at full closed position. My mileage had been dropping off for about 4 months and I had not used or looked at the enrichers at all.

During that 4 months I removed and reinstalled the handle bars without removing any cables.  I also squeeze by the bike a lot in my shop to get to storage. So either everything is right on the bike and I'm the enricher ghost, or maybe I'm missing the small return springs. I specifically looked for springs when  I removed the cover plate and zip tied the the slide bars in the closed position, but my guess is I missed them since they are under the slide bar.

Thanks for your input.

Ok, I think I follow.  If I recall correctly the Choke on that bike worked the same as mine.  Takes some thumb effort to open or close it.  I've never lubed the choke cables as I've read folks doing that had issues where they had to stay at the bike with their lever pushed down while warming up.  I'd guess the lever got moved when you removed & reinstalled the bars.  I do recall someone posting that they had made a lever down on the carb banks and did away with the handlebar lever.

[WintrSol]

I lubed the cable between the banks, so that they move in unison.
When the slides are in the full off position, are the brass enrichener controls moving back into the carbs, or must you push them back in? Seems to me that, if the slides are moving through the full range, but the mixture at/near idle is still too rich, the valves aren't closing as they should.

[DragonRdr]

I know I'm probably going to get flamed for saying this, but another reason I wish the Valk was fuel injected. 

[John Schmidt]

You want a trouble free choke system and get rid of the long cable? Do this! Using nyloc nuts and wave type washers, you can adjust the tension so as to keep the choke at whatever position needed...partial or full choke, and it doesn't move until you move it. Lubed the cable one time joining the two sides, haven't touched it since. Been on there for at least 15 years, maybe longer. Easy to make and install.

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_18944/Choke%20control2.jpg

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_18944/New%20choke%20control3.jpg

[98valk]

You want a trouble free choke system and get rid of the long cable? Do this! Using nyloc nuts and wave type washers, you can adjust the tension so as to keep the choke at whatever position needed...partial or full choke, and it doesn't move until you move it. Lubed the cable one time joining the two sides, haven't touched it since. Been on there for at least 15 years, maybe longer. Easy to make and install.

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_18944/Choke%20control2.jpg

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_18944/New%20choke%20control3.jpg

in top Five of all time mods to do.
Plus it allows the OEM radiator carburetor heat shield to be added to for blocking the heat from getting on the front carb.
Thanks John.