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xsexcess
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« on: March 31, 2024, 09:57:41 AM » |
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Working to wake the Interstate up from a long nap today and am having electrical issues. Swapped in a good battery, everything seemed to work fine. Instrument cluster woke up, starter was spinning fine. No hydrocarbons to ignite it seemed so I grabbed some starter fluid to try that. When I turned the key, cluster lit up, pushed the start button and everything went dead. I've checked battery connections, the ground wire to back of engine, the 30 amp (main?) fuse. Can find no issues. Have not found the 'fusible link' I hear about. At first I thought maybe the kill switch, so cycled that back and forth a few times.....but that wouldn't de-power the instrument cluster I think. When I rotate the key from accessory to off the T1 relay gives a faint click (maybe normal) otherwise no sound. Jumped the starter wires with a screwdriver and only get a faint spark (no rotation of starter). Any ideas what would component/connection could cause a single point electrical failure like this? The only benefit of having aged motorcycles like these is that someone somewhere has already experienced every failure that can happen.... This bike does not sit in the elements, so corrosion is less likely than some.
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xsexcess
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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2024, 10:07:51 AM » |
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I found the fusible link, it is intact, correct voltage is present. Could this be the ignition switch?
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f-Stop
Member
Posts: 1810
'98 Standard named Hildr
Driftwood, Texas
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« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2024, 06:29:19 PM » |
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Sure does sound like the starter switch from your description. It's easy enough to get to. I had similar symptoms as you. I opened my switch and it looked like this...  The contacts looked worse...  Cleaned 'em up, re-lubed with dielectric grease and all has been well since...   |
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  Had my blinker on across three states! |
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xsexcess
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« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2024, 04:55:07 AM » |
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Thanks, I'll check that. I did something similar with my Tourer. One thing that occurred to me at that time was the need for someone (with CAD skills) to create PDFs of the little plastic giblets in the starter switch (and fog light switches and many other places I'm sure) so we can have the no longer available and now quite aged parts 3d printed.....I did find a thread elsewhere that seemed to point to the starter relay. If available from Honda these will be spendy. There is an equivalent part available on Amazon for under $10 though (and similar 'repro' parts for many other Hondas). I bought a couple of those as Just in Case spares and will try that too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007473OWI?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsYou never know when items like this disappear out of the supply chain. |
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Rocketman
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« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2024, 10:25:39 AM » |
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The starter circuit is different between the standard/tourer and the I/S. The I/S is far less vulnerable.
If you're confident in the battery, I would start checking grounding points and contacts.
If you hit the starter button, it should kill everything (cluster, radio, etc) while it tries to start, but all that should come back up after you let off the button. The only times I've had it not recover is when I had a dead battery or a bad ground.
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Valker
Member
Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2024, 10:51:10 AM » |
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One note for dielectric grease: it is an INSULATOR. If you apply it too liberally or in the wrong places, it will cause electrical components to NOT work.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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john
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« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2024, 11:28:29 PM » |
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i tired of mess'in around with the switches ... i replaced both switch housings with new ones from honda .. i would rather spend the money than continue to chase the gremlin ... problem solved
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vrcc # 19002
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turtle254
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« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2024, 07:20:42 AM » |
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i tired of mess'in around with the switches ... i replaced both switch housings with new ones from honda .. i would rather spend the money than continue to chase the gremlin ... problem solved
What was price and part no. ? Where did you buy them from? Thanks |
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TTG53#1717
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« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2024, 08:26:20 PM » |
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Just a bit of advice with your new switch… A heavy key ring bouncing around can cause the switch to deteriorate rapidly. I use these S-Biners to allow the easy removal of a single key for my bikes.  You just have to remember to pull that key ! |
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‘97 Standard Purple/White
‘13 XL Seventy Two
‘54 KHK
VRCC 1717
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john
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« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2024, 11:09:10 AM » |
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« Last Edit: May 23, 2024, 11:14:01 AM by john »
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vrcc # 19002
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john
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« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2024, 10:41:58 PM » |
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vrcc # 19002
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