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Author Topic: final drive installation  (Read 1454 times)
DannyP
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*****
Posts: 23


Snarfle the Garthug

Western North Carolina


« on: April 06, 2024, 06:02:59 AM »

Hey guys I am trying to instal the final drive and cannot get the driveshaft into the ujoint is there a trick to it. It slide right out without any problems. I have looked at the rear end service and in the book but am have a difficult time getting them together. any hints would be great
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Do what you were made to do. If you don't know what that is, find out. We all have that one thing.
2000 Honda Valkyrie CT.
2012 Harley Ultra Limited
Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6422


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2024, 06:11:09 AM »

Yeah, I went down this road a couple decades ago. Smiley

The swing arm should be as level as you can get it.

A little finagling and it should pop in.  Hopefully.
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DannyP
Member
*****
Posts: 23


Snarfle the Garthug

Western North Carolina


« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2024, 06:19:06 AM »

The drive shaft just popped right in. I have no explaination of why after about 30 minutes of doing the same thing. Maybe the prayers maybe the cursing I don't know......
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Do what you were made to do. If you don't know what that is, find out. We all have that one thing.
2000 Honda Valkyrie CT.
2012 Harley Ultra Limited
Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30393


No VA


« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2024, 06:28:36 AM »

Edit: Well I'm late again.  (30 minutes isn't bad)  Smiley cooldude

It's always a PITA Danny.  (not as big a PITA as the Ujoint boot replacement, and the trick with that is to use spray silicone and fold the lips back on the bigger end that goes on the swingarm when installing.)

The advice for the shaft is to lift the swingarm up level (maybe tie it up), so the shaft is making a straight(er) shot at the ujoint.  Twist, stab, wiggle, repeat.  (same advivce on installing the boot)

And find a short stool so you can sit while fishing around for a while.

This was a very nice link with step by step pictures of rear end service and assembly that I actually printed out years ago.  It's now disabled, but maybe one of our computer gurus can find it on a Wayback Machine thingy.  Each picture enlarges nicely when clicked.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

Another piece of advice from this forum (Ricky-D)

Most damage to the bearing cup can be attributed to bad mechanical practice.

Namely allowing the swingarm to come to stop (bottom out) after removing the rear shock absorber bolts.

The edge of the cups are extremely fragile due to the machining for the seals.

Many threads have warnings about supporting the swingarm when disconnecting the shocks.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2024, 06:30:24 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
98valk
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*****
Posts: 13439


South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2024, 06:48:23 AM »

"and the trick with that is to use spray silicone"

don't use the spray which has other additives including petroleum distillates which can deteriorate the boot.

so best to use silicone grease in the tube without the bad additives.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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old2soon
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*****
Posts: 23391

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2024, 06:50:34 AM »

      Sorta kinda like when I was an Aiorcraft mech in The Navy. Fiddle fart around with something either on removal or install and no joy!  tickedoff An olvd ganarly Chief-E 7 thru 9-told me walk away go git a cup a coffee and a smoke then come back and tackle it again. Usually THAT worked!  Wink What til ya gotta R & R an altenator!  Roll Eyes RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
da prez
Member
*****
Posts: 4354

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2024, 01:00:19 PM »

  As was said , swing arm level , trans in gear and turn the flange while doing the wiggle push.  When it goes in to easy , pull it out , have a beer and do it again. crazy2

                                                          da prez
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Joe333x
Member
*****
Posts: 142


Boston


« Reply #7 on: April 06, 2024, 11:34:27 PM »

Edit: Well I'm late again.  (30 minutes isn't bad)  Smiley cooldude

It's always a PITA Danny.  (not as big a PITA as the Ujoint boot replacement, and the trick with that is to use spray silicone and fold the lips back on the bigger end that goes on the swingarm when installing.)

The advice for the shaft is to lift the swingarm up level (maybe tie it up), so the shaft is making a straight(er) shot at the ujoint.  Twist, stab, wiggle, repeat.  (same advivce on installing the boot)

And find a short stool so you can sit while fishing around for a while.

This was a very nice link with step by step pictures of rear end service and assembly that I actually printed out years ago.  It's now disabled, but maybe one of our computer gurus can find it on a Wayback Machine thingy.  Each picture enlarges nicely when clicked.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

Another piece of advice from this forum (Ricky-D)

Most damage to the bearing cup can be attributed to bad mechanical practice.

Namely allowing the swingarm to come to stop (bottom out) after removing the rear shock absorber bolts.

The edge of the cups are extremely fragile due to the machining for the seals.

Many threads have warnings about supporting the swingarm when disconnecting the shocks.



Here you go. I learned how to use the way back machine after getting my Valkyrie since so much info is now in dead links.
https://web.archive.org/web/20160523032210/http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html
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Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30393


No VA


« Reply #8 on: April 07, 2024, 04:23:18 AM »

Thanks.   cooldude
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