SUGGESTIONS and Information Needed - Thanks!

[RobH]

Hi, All.  I'm new to the forum, and could definitely use some help.  I just got a 1998 Valkyrie Tourer at an auction, and am trying to get it up and running.  It obviously had been parked for a while (24k miles on it) - original tires dry rotted, etc. - but had no sign of going down at any point.  Interior of the tank is spotless.  I changed the oil, got a new battery, and cranked it to check for spark.  No problem, turns over smoothly and sparks fine.  I added gas and cranked it - nothing.  Still turns over and the plugs are getting spark, but it's not catching at all.  I'm assuming that means that it isn't getting gas, right?  The idea of pulling and trying to clean and adjust 6 carburetors is more than a little daunting.  I just found out that the only Honda dealership in the area closed during the two years I was out of country, so I don't have a shop I can trailer it to nearby, leaving me pretty stuck.

What would you suggest I do or try to do?

Also, the petcock leaks fuel steadily, so I need to rebuild it with new o rings, etc.

Another question - and please pardon my ignorance:  when I crank it, the headlight immediately goes off, coming back on as soon as I stop cranking.  Is that a normal process for the Valkyrie?

Thank you for any and all assistance you can give me!

Rob cduinv@yahoo.com

[John Schmidt]

What I've done in the past to see if it's a fuel delivery issue is rather simple but may not work if the carbs are fully plugged up. The bottom of the airbox has a couple hoses attached underneath, I took one off(a bit of a challenge but easier than removing the tank) using long needle nose pliers. Then add some small hose to the end of the little tube that comes with a can of starter fluid, poke the tube up the place you removed the hose from the airbox and give it a couple good shots. You can also get some in by spraying from the front under the tank but never seemed quite as effective for me plus to gain access that way the windshield got in the way. Try starting the bike...if you get results like it's trying to fire, you might be looking at a carb overhaul. But before getting into all that, try rebuilding/replacing the petcock.

I have a small plastic one gallon external tank I can hang on the handlebars and run that tube to a direct connection with the tube coming from the petcock. It takes the petcock completely out of the process for testing fuel delivery issues created by it. If it acts like it wants to start now, that kinda narrows it down.

Just a couple ideas to try, keep us posted cuz others will have stuff to add.

[Pluggy]

Off goes the tank!  Removing the petcock will allow you to remove and clean the fuel filter.  That filter may be clogged with dried up gasoline varnish.  Rebuilding the petcock is easy.  Honda calls the rebuild kit a "cover set". There are kits available as aftermarket parts that cost less.  

https://www.partsgiant.com/p388180-parts-unlimited-fuel-petcock-diaphragm-only-rebuild-kit?m=17367126&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4MSzBhC8ARIsAPFOuyVttpEWbwVk7mX878jZNeVdblN4ItJe7eKoWzgIr9VTJBkN0NkZ_0waAgk0EALw_wcB

Just be careful to route the hoses the exact same way when you put the tank back on.  And, the headlight is OK.

[WintrSol]

But first, check that fuel is reaching the carbs by opening the bowl drains on each, one at a time, and apply a low vacuum on the petcock control hose, which should connect to #6 'manifold'. A leaking petcock may make this impossible, and you have to pull the tank to fix that. If you have an aux fuel tank you can connect to the line from the petcock to the carbs, you can use that to see if the valves in the carbs are blocked using the bowl drains.
You could also have an electronic fuel valve to prevent hydro-lock; it will likely be between the carbs, so finding it without a camera on the end of a bendy probe would mean air cleaner box off. That's tricky to get back on. I use silicone grease on the rubber tubes to help.

[RobH]

Guys, thank you so much!  I truly appreciate it.  I went ahead and ordered a replacement petcock assy; a new aftermarket was cheaper than the OEM "cover set".  I pulled off the petcock and looked at the filter - crystal clean!  I've been amazed by how clean the tank is as well.  The petcock assy seems to be pretty slow in coming, but hopefully it will be here by Saturday.  I'll definitely try the starter fluid action to get more info.

I pulled and changed the plugs last night in preparation, and found some strangeness.  There were 3 different types of plugs in the engine - 1 NGK, 1 Champion, and 4 Autolite!  That was very strange, as I found 12 brand new Autolite spark plugs in the saddlebags when I got the bike.  The other thing was that every plug was in finger-tight, literally!  I could place the socket on the plug and unscrew it with my fingers.  Not sure why that was the case....  In looking at the plugs, there was a wide variety of deposits.  One had pretty severe carbon blackening (though no crud), a couple had normal coloration, one had light tan coloration on the ceramic, one had a deeper brown/yellow coloration on the ceramic, and one looked like it had never met gasoline. 

When I checked for spark, I only checked one plug; I'm guessing I should check each one?

Regarding the coloration differences, am I correct that such could indicate a problem with the mixtures in the individual carbs?

Again, I really, really appreciate all the help and guidance!  Thanks so much!

Rob

[RobH]

And thanks for the information about the headlight!

[Glaserbeam]

I had also purchased one that had been sitting for a while, low miles but dry rotted tires that were hard like plastic. Three of the low speed Jets were clogged so it only idled on three cylinders, but when I cracked the throttle open it went to the main Jets and it ran perfectly. Try starting it with the throttle wide open, But ultimately you will need to pull the carbs, take the float bowls off, and between a thin wire (carefully) and carb cleaner, clear out the Jets. There are some good YouTube videos, it took me 2 hours to pull the carbs and remove the float bowls, but 4 hours to put them back in because especially with the California model all the hoses can only go in one way, and trying to get that darn air filter box in while aligning all six rubber intake hoses to the carburetors, that probably took an hour and a half all by itself!

[WintrSol]

In case you haven't found it in the manual yet, there are 3 ignition coils, and two plugs fire at the same time, left and right.
The difference is spark plug colors could be due to the randomness of the types, from replacement at different times. After it starts, fresh plugs should show what is going on.

[Chrisj CMA]

Many have tried several different spark plugs. Most (including myself) recommend sticking with the OE plugs. NGK DPR 7EA-9

It is possible the petcock is your problem. However from what you described it sounds more like clogged jets in the carburetors.

[RobH]

Great information, all - thank you!  I've watched a number of really good videos on YouTube about pulling/cleaning the carbs, and it looks like a true beast!

Hopefully the new petcock assy arrives this weekend, and I can hopefully get a better assessment of what's happening or not.

Here's a stupid question - and please pardon my ignorance:  assuming I can get it started, would running a little Seafoam in the gas help clean out clogged jets?

Thank you all!!

Rob

[Chrisj CMA]

Great information, all - thank you!  I've watched a number of really good videos on YouTube about pulling/cleaning the carbs, and it looks like a true beast!

Hopefully the new petcock assy arrives this weekend, and I can hopefully get a better assessment of what's happening or not.

Here's a stupid question - and please pardon my ignorance:  assuming I can get it started, would running a little Seafoam in the gas help clean out clogged jets?

Thank you all!!

Rob

Your thinking isint wrong but in that scenario you would be better served using Chemtool B12

[WintrSol]

Any carb cleaner you put in the tank, Seafoam, B-12, etc., require some fuel flowing. If the jets are not completely blocked, the cleaners will work, given time. Really blocked, not so much. You might be able to use a fine wire through the jets without pulling the carbs, but don't get your hopes up.

That said, I would try a B-12 or Seafoam to start, and go from there. The 'choke', fully deployed uses the same jets to start the engine as the idle, so if it starts with the enrichers on, leave them on until it lets you know it doesn't like it that rich. Just so you know, many don't push the lever far enough down (I didn't, at first), so make sure you push the thumb lever until it won't move any more.

[Hook#3287]

I'd put $ on the jets being completely plugged.
B
If you have basic mechanical  skills, pulling the carbs is not all that difficult and removing the bowls to inspect and replace the jets is just another easy task.

I'd suggest replacing over cleaning jets and I'd suggest changing out the 35's with 38's.

You could send them out for rebuild by Attic Rat or others.

Don't know if I'd trust a aftermarket petcock over any OEM product unless it was one tested and recommended by others on this board.  I've rebuilt several with the "cover set".

Good luck, enjoy your ride and post a picture or 2.

[h13man]

No need to replace original jets with OEM exhaust. Just clean them thoroughly. Replacing the float needle and all rubber components in the whole fuel system. Berryman B12 is an excellent cleaner. A set of #80-#61 micro drills work very well to help cleaning the jets.

 https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01690205?cid=ppc-google-&mkwid=%7Cdc&pcrid=&rd=k&product_id=01690205&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwps-zBhAiEiwALwsVYbcUCxSpBdqBkzOXm2xopoKoLjtkLHfsFdae_CqD0tXhQdDxVmhMlRoCce0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[RobH]

Finally got a picture that I could upload!

[Timbo1]

That's one of my favorite colors.  Hope you get her back on the road.  You might update your profile to include your location, there may be some knowledgeable folks in your area that could help out.

[RobH]

Thank you!  I'm currently in SW Va., but will be leaving for a teaching gig (can't afford to retire!) in Asia in a few weeks.

[WintrSol]

Taking the Valkyrie with you?

[RobH]

Taking the Valkyrie with you?

Sadly, no.  I'm trying to get it up and running to leave with a Buddy while I'm gone.  It would probably be cheaper to charter the QE II than to ship this monster to Asia!  I'll be picking up one of the local 150's to ride around the city/countryside once I get there.

[gordonv]

That said, I would try a B-12 or Seafoam to start, and go from there. The 'choke', fully deployed uses the same jets to start the engine as the idle, so if it starts with the enrichers on, leave them on until it lets you know it doesn't like it that rich. Just so you know, many don't push the lever far enough down (I didn't, at first), so make sure you push the thumb lever until it won't move any more.

My first choice is the choke (enricher), and maybe a little throttle. It can be a trick to start some bikes.

A good working charged battery for a strong crank is helpful too. Never a jump from a running vehicle.

I would leave it on till you smell gas, then off. Then try a few different amounts of the throttle.

Also as suggested, confirm fuel is leaving the tank. Either learn the petcocks operation or bypass it.

Raw fuel/starter fluid, to see if you get any coughing out of the bike is helpful.

[crow]

No need to replace original jets with OEM exhaust. Just clean them thoroughly. Replacing the float needle and all rubber components in the whole fuel system. Berryman B12 is an excellent cleaner. A set of #80-#61 micro drills work very well to help cleaning the jets.

 
There are three kinds of American drill bits.  Fractional, Letter, and Numbered.  The number drills go very very small in diameter.  When using number drills buy a. "pin vise" for handling them.  Starrett company makes the best ones.

[RobH]

No need to replace original jets with OEM exhaust. Just clean them thoroughly. Replacing the float needle and all rubber components in the whole fuel system. Berryman B12 is an excellent cleaner. A set of #80-#61 micro drills work very well to help cleaning the jets.

 
There are three kinds of American drill bits.  Fractional, Letter, and Numbered.  The number drills go very very small in diameter.  When using number drills buy a. "pin vise" for handling them.  Starrett company makes the best ones.

Thank you!  Great information, and much appreciated!

Rob

[h13man]

There are three kinds of American drill bits.  Fractional, Letter, and Numbered.  The number drills go very very small in diameter.  When using number drills buy a. "pin vise" for handling them.  Starrett company makes the best ones.

Yeah I forgot to mention that as I assumed everybody has one.  though there are less expensive brands but...
I've had this variant for 25 yrs. for hand and use in a vertical mill doing small hole drilling. Drilling, you need the rpm as a vertical mill usually produce up to 3,000 rpm.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06569040?cid=ppc-google-&mkwid=%7Cdc&pcrid=&rd=k&product_id=06569040&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-O6zBhASEiwAOHeGxZyd4Tpg8Nt_lQIRBSfcZbd0FDvTifq_GgOKbz9btvB_zv2QwzjaPBoC20EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[ridingron]

There are three kinds of American drill bits.  Fractional, Letter, and Numbered.  The number drills go very very small in diameter.  When using number drills buy a. "pin vise" for handling them.  Starrett company makes the best ones.

Yeah I forgot to mention that as I assumed everybody has one.  though there are less expensive brands but...
I've had this variant for 25 yrs. for hand and use in a vertical mill doing small hole drilling. Drilling, you need the rpm as a vertical mill usually produce up to 3,000 rpm.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06569040?cid=ppc-google-&mkwid=%7Cdc&pcrid=&rd=k&product_id=06569040&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-O6zBhASEiwAOHeGxZyd4Tpg8Nt_lQIRBSfcZbd0FDvTifq_GgOKbz9btvB_zv2QwzjaPBoC20EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think he was referring to something more like this.

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/vises/2166767?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_campaign=organic-shopping

[ridingron]

If you do end up in Asia, be sure your buddy rides or at least runs the bike. Otherwise you'll end up back where you started. 

[RobH]

If you do end up in Asia, be sure your buddy rides or at least runs the bike. Otherwise you'll end up back where you started. 

Excellent point!  After sinking what I'm putting into this bike financially to get it up and running, I definitely don't want that happening!

[clanky]

Just so you know.  You bought one hell of a machine as we all on this website can attest.
She rarely will leave you stranded once you get all the carb stuff straightened out(old gas, rotted hoses ect, ect).
Many of us have well over 100,000 miles.  I personally have 206,000+ miles on my 1998 standard.
She will put a smile on your face once you get her running !!!!!

[ridingron]

Keep in mind the fuel valve is vacuum operated. If it is working correctly, fuel only flows when the motor is turning over. If the carbs are empty, it'll take a bit of cranking the first time to fill the 6 carbs and start it. Be sure you have a battery that can maintain power (volts and amps) to start it.

[RobH]

Just so you know.  You bought one hell of a machine as we all on this website can attest.
She rarely will leave you stranded once you get all the carb stuff straightened out(old gas, rotted hoses ect, ect).
Many of us have well over 100,000 miles.  I personally have 206,000+ miles on my 1998 standard.
She will put a smile on your face once you get her running !!!!!

Thank you.  My dear Friend Dan is riding it, and sends glowing responses.  I  think my favorite was:  "I have no doubt that God rides a Valkyrie."     He says it's amazing.  I miss it, and I've never even ridden it!