Soil Aeration - Mechanical Device (non Valkyrie Related)

[carolinarider09]

The acres we purchased to build our house on was, when we made the purchase, basically forest land, pines, oaks, elms, and sweet gums.  There were some open areas (at the front of the property on the main road way) that were apparently once considered a place to build a house and a "road" down one side of the property. 

Due to our location we had to have a septic tank and drain field installed.  Due to the soil conditions, the drain field was fairy deep (five or six feet if I remember, but....). The location of the drain field, the way 240 VAC power is supplied to the house and main water line, has left an open area on one side of the house. 

In general the part over and down hill from the drain field is easily covered in wild grass.  But there are a couple of areas (see one in the picture below) that I would like to get grass to grow in. 

I believed the soil is mostly clay in this area but, after rain and when the temperatures are not that hot, grass does grow in this area. 

Since grass grows, that means I should be able to help grow more grass if I aerated the soil. 

So, I am considering the purchase of a manual device to pull behind the lawn mower to aerated the soil. 

I understand it might work but, given the clay, it would seem that I might need to do something more then just aerate. 

So, two questions.

1.  Will soil aerating provide a pathway for more green grass?

2.  Beside soil aeration, what other steps should I take to get more green grass?

Thanks for reading. 

[Oldfishguy]

Hmmmmm.  Clay and sand are tough to grow grass on.  It will grow with irrigation but never be thick.  Think about hauling in enough black dirt so you have at least 3 inches and preferably 6 inches of nice soil.  Use minimal equipment on the new soil so as not to compact it.  Mix in a bunch of good seed with a rake and then you will have a nice thick lawn.  Best of luck.

[DIGGER]

I have a pull behind device that has big spikes on a rolling drum that
I pull behind my 4 wheeler.  It has a platform that you can put weights or bricks to help drive the spikes down in the soil.  I go over and over the yd each spring with this device then go over the yard with fertilizer spreader.   Them water the yard well.   The spiked holes allow the fertilizer to be washed off into the holes which gets the fertilizer down to the root system.   I dont use weed and feed fettilizer as most of my yard is just mowed pasture grass.    I use 13 13 13.   But other people i know use different numbers fertilizers.

[Jess from VA]

I've been fighting for a lawn on hard clay for 30 years.  Tall fescue is best (VA), but still suffers in heat and drought.

What Oldfishguy said is good.  But put down some top soil, then run your aerator over the hard clay and topsoil together.  Do it several times.  It makes a big mess, but will pay off later.

The other good amendment with clay is lime ('course, you can run some soil PH tests).  And that lime comes in 1) the old peletized (at a very high application rate, so many bags), and 2) fancy new chemical lime where one bag is rated for 15sq feet.  I've used both, and the old peletized works better, and especially helps break up the hard clay soil (and lets more moisture in, instead of running off).

So put some top and some peletized lime down, then run the aerator over top of it.  Water it in good.

Do the soil anytime, but no seed in summer or autumn heat, wait till fall (or early spring).  And add more water.  I've also gone half application rate seed, and ran the aerator over that too.  Then the other half of the seed on top.  

If the birds raid new seed in mass, rig up a wide swath sprinkler right from the house, and give them a shower.  

EDIT: Now Bill all of my aerating was done with a gas powered one from the equipment rental (on a third acre), not a pull behind tractor one, so I know nothing of those.  I did it every Spring and Fall for many years.  Never again for a long time though, my arms and shoulders can't take that kind of abuse anymore.

And I used to go after all weeds, but with this summer's heat, crabgrass and clover is about the only green thing in my yard.  Even with watering.  

[old2soon]

    I on the other hand could care Less if the grass grows here-it duz-cuz that just means ya gotta cut it due to city regulations!  And I've NEVER enjoyed cuttin the grass mowing the lawn etc etc. RIDE SAFE.

[Jersey mike]

I’m no grass expert by any stretch, but with the clay and new topsoil, (I’ve seen topsoil wash away from the surface of clay) would it be beneficial to use a small roto-tiller maybe with 4 or 6 inch blades to first chop the clay and then mix in the topsoil (or pest moss) and roto-till it again to bend it in and then cover with say 2-3” of topsoil? I know it’s extra work but maybe it could help.

[Jess from VA]

My repeated use of the gas aerator (in a checkerboard fashion), with amendments, was similar to using a rototiller, only less of a mess and a quicker comeback.  And a rototiller would have dug up what good grass I did have.

[da prez]

Raw unpainted drywall.  Lay it on the ground and let it weather. Till it in. It is supposed to break down the clay and loosen the soil.

                                                   da prez

[carolinarider09]

I have read all the comments and appreciate the feedback.  It has fueled my own thoughts on the steps to take.

The process of aeration with new topsoil is a workable solution.  But I cannot put down more than a few inches. The drawback of this process comes when it rains and tends to wash the light stuff away, unless there is something growing there to keep the soil. 

What Digger has said above is what I was considering.   

Also, we have never ever watered any of the areas where grass grows.  The front yard, discussed above, gets moisture and other "elements" from the septic tank. 

However, I might consider watering the areas that I would like to "get grass to grow in" but not permanently. That might change.  We have the necessary hoses, just not a "sprinkler".  That's  not a hard thing to purchase if I can purchase the soil aerator.   

Again thanks and I will keep reading and thinking.

[Jersey mike]

I just remembered, on new planting of grass in certain areas around here a mesh of some type is laid on the ground, it looks like some type of nylon, but I’m not certain.

It may be something that’s degradable over time. The mesh is put down and staked in somehow to keep it in place and seed is laid down and then straw or hay is laid on top, I’m guessing to keep moisture in and stop runoff. It’s used quite often on highways after construction and seems to work real well even on very steep banks and slopes near bridges and overpasses. They do use hydro-seeding in these applications though.

[LadyDraco]

I  have  clay and  rocks  being a  mountain.
My lower neighbor  has  bottom land .
I told  him he  needs  to bring my top soil back to me  LOL   

 But you need  a  grass seed that will like  shade.
I  have  lots  of that type of grass growing here on the  mountain 

[carolinarider09]

I will do some research on the mesh

And LadyDraco - the seed was going to be a research project.  There is grass growing in the area now when it gets rain.

Since we have the hurricane/tropical storm passing through here (well nearby) we will get some rain, steady and so far light.  I am curious to see if the grass in the area "expands" as the soil is moistened.  It will be on the surface but, as I underpants it, that's were things have to start.

 

[Timbo1]

I'm no grass expert and don't know types of grass that grows in certain conditions.  But have you considered laying sod down in the troublesome areas?  That would somewhat eliminate the need for top soil and mesh I'd think.

We had our yard dug up for water service a couple years ago some of it in the wash path of the storm sewer.  They laid sod down and it's really helped in the area's that were being eroded previously.

[Jess from VA]

But I cannot put down more than a few inches. The drawback of this process comes when it rains and tends to wash the light stuff away, unless there is something growing there to keep the soil.

A few inches is all you need Bill.  

Run the aerator on the clay soil to break it up some.

Then add the topsoil.

Then run the aerator again over all of it to mix the clay and the topsoil.

Then garden rake clumps and level things out a bit.  Or run the tractor over it, or drag something behind the tractor like a small harrow rake or even a piece of chain link fence.

Then water it in good.  

Nothing should wash away now (short of a flooding monsoon).

Overseed later when it's cool.  However, the seed will do better if you seed soon after the soil prep.

And keep the seed wet.  Straw really helps keep things moist if you need it, but it's a mess to cleanup, and you can't be raking up the straw with new seedlings coming up, you have to wait to clean up the straw until the grass is pretty well established.

From the web:  Selecting the best turfgrass for your lawn in the south depends on two factors: how much sun your lawn will receive and its geographic location within the warm season grass region. The primary grass choices for southern lawns are: bermudagrass, St. Augustine, centipedegrass, zoysia, tall fescue, and buffalograss.
 
The tall fescue works best in No VA.  

I wish I lived closer, I like this work and would be glad to help you with it.

[LadyDraco]

I avoid  fescue  because  of  the  livestock..
Too many issues.. On the  stock , not worth the  worry ..


I know  a lot of  people  that use  it...
And like  it in their  yards.

[carolinarider09]

Jess, LadyDraco,   

Good information.  Jess's comments confirm some of my thoughts, not about process but about 'concerns'.   The process mentioned would might mitigate some concerns. 

I do have a "thing" like a chainlink fence but it's where the chains would have been linked there are squares.  I think it's about four feet wide and maybe eight feet long.  I used it to level out the gravel on my driveways. 

Only majo issue is that it does disturb gravel making it a little tough for the dog to walk on but it will settle down over time. Have a Land Plan I also use for major events on the roads (like rain erosion from heavy rain). 

Sounds like fescue is my "goto" grass.   

Then I looked it up and got this website.

https://www.evergreenseeds.com/when-to-plant-fescue-in-sc/

Always something.