petcock

[groundpounder01]

Where is everyone getting the manual petcock that will fit the valkyrie tank thread? I also am interested in the electric solenoid due to the fact my dad will come over and take ownership of may bike when he gets the itch.

[fudgie]

Got mine from Pingel. Dont know about a shut off.

[X Ring]

Got my Pingel 1311CH from www.Easternperformance.com for $90.

Marty

[BOZ]

Anybody wanna sell your old OEM petcock (cheap)? I need one for a project I'm doing. 

barrybosNOSPAM@optonline.net

[paul]

....Plus one with X  Ring.....Same theads as Halrey,,I think...Both H/D,s    (hundred dollars)   

[John Schmidt]

Where is everyone getting the manual petcock that will fit the valkyrie tank thread? I also am interested in the electric solenoid due to the fact my dad will come over and take ownership of may bike when he gets the itch.

I got rid of the OEM petcock after messing with it twice, installed a Pingel manual after extending the pickup tube to match the OEM. That gives you the same amount of reserve as OEM. Installed an inline filter and the electric shutoff. Here's where most of us bought the electric shutoff:

http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html

[Madmike]

Where is everyone getting the manual petcock that will fit the valkyrie tank thread? I also am interested in the electric solenoid due to the fact my dad will come over and take ownership of may bike when he gets the itch.

If you click on the search tab at the top of the page you can go back and see some of the past discussion on this .... most guys seem to use the pingle and there has been discussion on the merits of different specific model numbers.  Someone, (perhaps user CA exhaust coatings??) has posted part numbers and sources for the electric shutoff and install tips (....in my dim memory).  When searching you can select whether you want to search all boards or just a specific one.. tech, general, Texas.  

If you click the link for "old tech archives" you can access some of the discussion from the old board and may find something there as well.

[asfltdncr]

Whether your petcock is vacuum, electric, or manually operated, it still comes down to whether the fuel will shut off when it is supposed to.
Does anyone   know   that the electric solenoid is more reliable than the OEM?
Are you any better off with an electric than the vacuum-there's still a chance of mechanical malfunction and you won't know it till you hit the starter?
With a manual valve, at least you will know when you forgot to shut it off and at that point, you can decide whether to chance hydrolock or not.

[Friagabi]

Do you install two electric valve? One in the fuel line and one in the vacume line? Or do you just leave the vacume line alone so if the valve pin-holes it can still leak fuel into #6 cylinder?

[John Schmidt]

Do you install two electric valve? One in the fuel line and one in the vacume line? Or do you just leave the vacume line alone so if the valve pin-holes it can still leak fuel into #6 cylinder?

My fuel line runs from the Pingel, to an inline filter, to the DanMarc electric valve, to the "Y" connection where the fuel lines go to either side to the carbs. Been in there a couple years now with no trouble. I still use the manual shut off if the bike is going to sit for a while. But if I'm just out running errands, then no....just kills it with the ignition key. I plan on installing a quick disconnect and run the fuel line through an inline shutoff instead of a petcock, I want to install a barbed nipple directly to the tank....still in the "thinking it through" stage. 

[Friagabi]

Understand, while thinking, think about a under swingarm tank, with a lift pump to feed the carbs. If you use a airplane pump then the fuel will not just run through the pump unless it is running.

[John Schmidt]

Understand, while thinking, think about a under swingarm tank, with a lift pump to feed the carbs. If you use a airplane pump then the fuel will not just run through the pump unless it is running.

The belly tank a number of members had installed would fit that description. But, since I already have an I/S tank and run well over 200 miles between refills, the belly tank really isn't an option for me. I don't need the extra mileage between refills....and neither do my older bones.    What I'm looking for is an inline petcock I can use to simply turn the fuel off, and use it in conjunction with a bypass for the elec. shutoff should it ever fail. The DanMarc I have installed now has had rigorous testing and the expected time to failure based on the testing should take me well past my riding days....understanding all manmade things will fail unexpectedly per Murphy's Law. Which is why I carry a spare when traveling.

[asfltdncr]

Do you install two electric valve? One in the fuel line and one in the vacume line? Or do you just leave the vacume line alone so if the valve pin-holes it can still leak fuel into #6 cylinder?

My point was that the chance of failure may be the same but I guess what you're saying is that if the vacuum petcock fails, the fuel will enter via the vacuum line.  I thought the risk of the diaphram failing was that it could flow past the carb and into any cylinder that has a needle valve failure.
I wonder how many failures have occured WITHIN the recommended maintenance time frame?
Can you tell me for sure that the fuel typically travels down through the vac line to no. 6?

[fstsix]

It seems that the reason the fuel ends up in #6 is that is the leaning side from the kick stand. i am still curious how many have really had bad float needles, or was it just a split diaphragm ?

[Sodbuster]

I have a question .... when doing the install of a Pingel does it match up directly with existing hose diameter ??

Thanks

[Patrick]

The Pingle is 5/16" while the Honda hose is 8mm..

[Sodbuster]

That's only like .003" difference .... so it should hook up no problem with a hose clamp I'm guessing ??

[Chrisj CMA]

That's only like .003" difference .... so it should hook up no problem with a hose clamp I'm guessing ??

Yes a mini screw type hose clamp is perfect.  No more struggling to get the fuel line off or on, loosen the screw and she popps off.....easy

[Friagabi]

I keep an eye on this subject. So far all that I have done is to add a in-line fuel filter and a cleanout of the tank at each air-filter service. Once each year or year and a half.

Most (if not all) reports of hydrolock deal with the damage and the costs of replacement of the rear engine cover. Not any detailed evaluation as to the cause. Not that I have read. And no detailed reports from those who survived and only had to pull the plugs and vent the liquid except a few who rebuilt the carbs. Read one report on having a repeat and that was corrected with a new pingle but no detail. Leads one to look to see why the good float bowl valves did not correct the condition. How did fuel lock up the engine without going through the carbs? and why did the pingle seem to correct the problem when the bowl valves should have been enough. Did the carb rebuilder do something wrong? Or did the fuel come down the vac line to #6 cylinder? I sort of like the features Honda built in so I added a fuel filter to protect the carbs (for many reasons) and try to keep a spotless fuel system. Beyond that it's hard to engineer what Honda already did a good job of. Best wing built in its time. Wish they had done multi port injection on a 1520 F6 before the 1800 came out.

[asfltdncr]

I keep an eye on this subject. So far all that I have done is to add a in-line fuel filter and a cleanout of the tank at each air-filter service. Once each year or year and a half.

Most (if not all) reports of hydrolock deal with the damage and the costs of replacement of the rear engine cover. Not any detailed evaluation as to the cause. Not that I have read. And no detailed reports from those who survived and only had to pull the plugs and vent the liquid except a few who rebuilt the carbs. Read one report on having a repeat and that was corrected with a new pingle but no detail. Leads one to look to see why the good float bowl valves did not correct the condition. How did fuel lock up the engine without going through the carbs? and why did the pingle seem to correct the problem when the bowl valves should have been enough. Did the carb rebuilder do something wrong? Or did the fuel come down the vac line to #6 cylinder? I sort of like the features Honda built in so I added a fuel filter to protect the carbs (for many reasons) and try to keep a spotless fuel system. Beyond that it's hard to engineer what Honda already did a good job of. Best wing built in its time. Wish they had done multi port injection on a 1520 F6 before the 1800 came out.

If the vac line can drain fuel to the #6 cyl, would a simple check valve in the vac line  :-\be a solution?

[fudgie]

I keep an eye on this subject. So far all that I have done is to add a in-line fuel filter and a cleanout of the tank at each air-filter service. Once each year or year and a half.

Most (if not all) reports of hydrolock deal with the damage and the costs of replacement of the rear engine cover. Not any detailed evaluation as to the cause. Not that I have read. And no detailed reports from those who survived and only had to pull the plugs and vent the liquid except a few who rebuilt the carbs. Read one report on having a repeat and that was corrected with a new pingle but no detail. Leads one to look to see why the good float bowl valves did not correct the condition. How did fuel lock up the engine without going through the carbs? and why did the pingle seem to correct the problem when the bowl valves should have been enough. Did the carb rebuilder do something wrong? Or did the fuel come down the vac line to #6 cylinder? I sort of like the features Honda built in so I added a fuel filter to protect the carbs (for many reasons) and try to keep a spotless fuel system. Beyond that it's hard to engineer what Honda already did a good job of. Best wing built in its time. Wish they had done multi port injection on a 1520 F6 before the 1800 came out.

If the vac line can drain fuel to the #6 cyl, would a simple check valve in the vac line  :-\be a solution?

Thats a good idea but not sure if it would work. Vac is pulled towards the engine. I dont know if gas got into that line if it would open the check valve due to its weight..

[asfltdncr]

I keep an eye on this subject. So far all that I have done is to add a in-line fuel filter and a cleanout of the tank at each air-filter service. Once each year or year and a half.

Most (if not all) reports of hydrolock deal with the damage and the costs of replacement of the rear engine cover. Not any detailed evaluation as to the cause. Not that I have read. And no detailed reports from those who survived and only had to pull the plugs and vent the liquid except a few who rebuilt the carbs. Read one report on having a repeat and that was corrected with a new pingle but no detail. Leads one to look to see why the good float bowl valves did not correct the condition. How did fuel lock up the engine without going through the carbs? and why did the pingle seem to correct the problem when the bowl valves should have been enough. Did the carb rebuilder do something wrong? Or did the fuel come down the vac line to #6 cylinder? I sort of like the features Honda built in so I added a fuel filter to protect the carbs (for many reasons) and try to keep a spotless fuel system. Beyond that it's hard to engineer what Honda already did a good job of. Best wing built in its time. Wish they had done multi port injection on a 1520 F6 before the 1800 came out.

If the vac line can drain fuel to the #6 cyl, would a simple check valve in the vac line  :-\be a solution?

Thats a good idea but not sure if it would work. Vac is pulled towards the engine. I dont know if gas got into that line if it would open the check valve due to its weight..

You mean that had I thought it through, it would not be much of an idea at all.I just think that maybe the OEM might have a better success rate than my memory may with the manual.Is it always #6 and therefore the fuel always enters through the vac line and not faulty needle valves in one of the carbs?   

[lee]

This has been posted before.  For fuel to flow down the #6 vacuum hose from the OEM
petcock the following has to happen:

1. The manual part of the valve must be in the open or reserve position.
2. The vacuum valve seal must be broken.
3. The DRAIN between the vacuum valve seal and the vacuum diaphragm must be plugged.
4. The vacuum diaphragm must be broken.
5. The fuel pressure would have to overcome the check valve.

Ain't saying it can't happen,  but its not likely.
If the fuel got past 1 and 2 above the entire tank of fuel would flow out the DRAIN between
the valve seal and vacuum diaphragm before the cylinder filled.
JMO