Sharkey
Member
Posts: 567
GOT CURVES??
VRCCDS0184
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« on: February 14, 2010, 07:17:17 AM » |
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I am having trouble with my Moms dryer. It is a Whirpool WED5540SQ0. The timer stoppped working, and the element is not heating.
I checked the element and it is good with a 12 ohm reading. I have also checked the temp limit switches and they all have a 0 ohm reading when cool. All of this is leading me to believe the timer is bad.
Here is where my confusion sets in I was reading many timers will not advance if the dont get signals that the dryed is heating, thus making the dryer timer go through stages? It said times were the most returned items, people purchased them and it was not the problem. He stated the do 3 to 4 dryer calls per day and have only replaced a few timers in a five year time span. Any Ideas.
The dryer is fairly new and only dryes clothes for one person, so hate to buy a new one. $90 for a timer sounds a little better
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czuch
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« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2010, 08:14:03 AM » |
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How old is the dryer? The timers are the weak link.
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Aot of guys with burn marks,gnarly scars and funny twitches ask why I spend so much on safety gear
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Sharkey
Member
Posts: 567
GOT CURVES??
VRCCDS0184
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« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2010, 12:22:28 PM » |
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How old is the dryer? The timers are the weak link.
The dryer is about 3 years old. $100 for a timer that might be a problem or $350 for a new one ? I'll do a little more testing when I get home |
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bassman
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« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2010, 01:34:48 PM » |
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NOT a guru by any means but have used this site and found them helpful....might try to contact them and see what they have to say about your problem and perhaps offer a viable solution or direction to go..... http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/RepairHelp.aspxGood luck..... |
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Jess Tolbirt
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« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2010, 02:01:18 PM » |
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make sure that the breaker is not triped on one side...some 2 pole breakers will trip one side and the other remains hot.
the motor in a dryer is 120 volt as is the timer,,,its possible that the motor is running and the timer is not seeing the heat because there is none because the heating element does not have 220 going to it,,,
hope i made that at least clear as mud...
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Mickey Runie
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« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2010, 07:04:15 AM » |
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Door switch ohm out ok too?
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Big Rig
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« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2010, 09:30:08 AM » |
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Had the same problem with my whirlpool a couple of months ago...it was the second time. There is a thermal couple (small plastic tab) that you will need to replace. Cost me about $20. If you remove the back panel you should be able to acess it without a problem. it is white plastic and is about 1.25 inches long and about 3/8 inches wide. If you have access to a small appliance store, they should have them there.
I am not a guru...but have been down the road a couple of times.
Good luck.
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Sharkey
Member
Posts: 567
GOT CURVES??
VRCCDS0184
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« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2010, 03:33:32 PM » |
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Thanks for all the replies. It appears to be the cycling thermostat. It kicks off at high temps, but also tells the timer when to start. The high limit part of the thermostat worked, but not the low temp coil. $15 for a new one. She picked it up today, and Ill put it in tomorrow. Thanks again. This was the culprit  |
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Mickey Runie
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« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2010, 06:24:29 AM » |
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 All's well that ends well.
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HotRod
Member
Posts: 909
2001 I/S First one was a 1999 I/S
Henderson, NV
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« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2010, 11:08:49 AM » |
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Make sure it is venting properly,timers will stall if the vent is clogged. Disconnect the vent hose and run it,if it works that's your problem,if it don't make sure your double breaker that both breakers are reset,sometimes one of the breakers can trip and its hard to tell,so turn both off and get a good reset,on an electric dryer the unit can still run on one side of the breaker but no heat.
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