Borescope recommendations.

[John Schmidt]

Before starting the engine swap with the Wing motor(with reverse) to my Valkyrie(no reverse), I'd like to take a look at the bottom end through either the oil fill hole or through the oil drain hole. I've never owned or used a borescope so have no idea how much they cost or the complications of use. The reason for doing this is rather simple, the engine apparently had a hydrolock event due to the small idler to the left of the starter gear was missing. I need to know if there is any debris sitting in the bottom or elsewhere just waiting to cause trouble upon first startup. When I removed the rear cover to replace that gear/shaft, there was no damage to the casing and I didn't see any debris at that level, something that can often happen if someone continues to hit the start button. So my question is...are there any good units out there that anyone has experience with and won't break the bank?

My plan is to get a ceiling mounted garage heater of adequate output so I can make this a winter project without freezing my much less cold tolerant keester off. I also want to line the inside of the garage door with some sort of insulation that is light enough weight so as to not burn out the opener motor. TIA for any suggestions or advice.

[sandy]

Line the door with styrofoam sheets. Either 1" or 1.5" thickness. Whatever fits best. I did thid with decent results but years later, I replaced the whole door with an insulated one with metal skins on both the inside and out.

[clar1jam]

I have a NIDAGE Borescope that I bought at an Auto Value Parts store that
connects to my IPhone.  I really like how clear it is.  You can go to:
www.nidageo.com for more information.

[3W-lonerider]

i use a bore scope for work, have also bought them as christmas gifts. depstech is what i use, it is best to either get one with a swivel head or a endoscope that has a side camara.
either one of those will be nessesary if you wanna see the valves.


https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Lens-Endoscope-DEPSTECH-Borescope-Waterproof/dp/B0CT2CX59S/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3AKPTASUNIF4A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.PYogvg0nsRuZSHC-o-RdGe9AN2nQlx7YO52w5xhD7RJGvetweR3pBKTf7KYMOHdCh0_CQ3rEQ0LHw_Z3ufCqbQWN7JAcF0vRFbHBzdozc8hDSM7ynYpOMpAzlc6sG0oBsth7dh9HxyD1Buu933Dp3h_depvWGWG-Cpwg78DI-YDjRXFo_eopZGakVf4AgBnao8SnIPltIZPYOOVfdBO-HQ.sZ-AvKVfjw118lKekRZDCxMXLRoVObIOdNXfwxEBsko&dib_tag=se&keywords=borescope&qid=1725227594&refinements=p_123%3A394076&rnid=85457740011&s=industrial&sprefix=borescope%2Caps%2C620&sr=1-1

[John Schmidt]

Just ordered the Depstech on my daughter's Prime acct., delivery scheduled for Tuesday. $55.99 + tax.

[John Schmidt]

Got my new toy yesterday and been experimenting with it which included bugging Nancy with it. Laughing, she finally asked "what are you, 14?"  So far it seems to work ok, probably ought to read the instructions though. 

[John Schmidt]

Well, today I used the new borescope to take a look at the innards of the Wing motor. Cylinders look fine but the top of the pistons are coated with a lot of carbon, as are the back of the intake valves. I don't relish the thought of pulling the heads to clean things up so looking for suggestion based on personal experience.

[Pluggy]

You have access to several "good runner" Valkyries.  Why not examine those and see what's inside?
Maybe what you see in that wing engine is typical and OK.  Might not be worth taking the engine apart.

[John Schmidt]

You have access to several "good runner" Valkyries.  Why not examine those and see what's inside?
Maybe what you see in that wing engine is typical and OK.  Might not be worth taking the engine apart.

Yes, I'm thinking of looking at a couple cylinders on the two Valks I have, but that doesn't give me access to the back side of the valves without removing the intake runners. They run really good so hesitating to mess with them.

[Pluggy]

Removing the intake tube on #5 takes a minute.  You can see what a good running engine looks like.  There's bound to be some amount of carbon.  Compare the wing engine to your two good runners.  A lot more carbon?  About the same?  This will help determine the next step, if any.

[Jersey mike]

I’m no mechanic but perhaps a good dose of sea foam or Techron or maybe a couple doses depending on how much you ride. I don’t know how difficult it was to scope the engine to check again after a few tanks of fuel.  Does a de smog help in that area?

[Skinhead]

An old trick I've used in the past was to get the engine good and hot, and and then add cold water through the carb with the engine running.  Did this on cars, but on the valk, you should be able to attach a hose to the vacuum port on each cylinder and put the open end of the hose in a container of water to draw it into the intake/cylinder.  SMALL AMOUNTS OF WATER, YOU DON'T WANT TO HYDROLOCK BY ADDING TOO MUCH.  The vacuum ports are small holes, so should work, but be ready to pinch of the hose or remove it from the water, until you get a feel for how much water is drawn in.  The thermal shock causes the carbon to break up and crack off.

[John Schmidt]

Giving some thought to simply pulling the heads and removing the valves. Then I can clean them all up real nice, reseat them by hand assuming there's good contact already, replace the valve seals and button it up. That would also give me a chance to clean the top of the pistons while I'm at it. Any thoughts on this? I have done this a time or six before, just trying to decide if I want to dig into the motor that far. From about November 1st to April 30th we're in a deep freeze up here anyway so this would give me something to do, assuming I can get someone to run a 220v line for me, apartment management won't allow me to do it myself. That's badly needed for a good sized space heater hung from the garage ceiling.