Fork rebuild seals

[Gearhead24]

Hello,

Finally getting around to rebuilding my front forks, but am also going to replace the springs with progressive. I found a good price on a set here https://www.denniskirk.com/progressive-suspension/front-fork-springs-40-70-spring-rate-lbs-in-11-1513.p581835.prd/581835.sku#rev-cont and at the moment I am looking at the OEM seals from Honda. Looking at the parts list I see the oil seal and the dust seal marked together under item named Seal Set. I can click the dust seal individually but not the oil seal.

I'm wondering if this "seal set" is both the oil seal and the dust stopper. I also have the top O-rings and the bottom washer seal in my cart so there is no concern about that. All in all the price of the "seal set" and the remaining seals is a lot lower than initially thought, but what about tools to do the job? I'd like to have everything needed to remove, dismantle, powder coat, reassemble, and reinstall all in one shot and not have to jerry rig absolutely everything like I always do.

[98valk]

u will need a lock nut wrench tool

an electric heater element wrench is the same ID and OD needed. just need to notch the round end to work. large socket other end for torque wrench.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/heater%2520wrench?NCNI-5

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,70292.0.html
from my org post from '06

Posted By: 98valk
Date: 6/26/2006 at 05:30:06

In Response To: any fork tools in rockhill area (draino)
u can use an electric heater element removal tool from home depot for $6, it has the required ID and ODs. Modify the round end per Chet's website http://www.rattlebars.com/vtx/forktools.html
and u will need a 6 point 1 3/4" socket and 2-3 large washers to fit inside of the socket. The washers are to keep the socket from hitting the triple clamp while pressing down to remove the inner fork nut. It will also be easier to remove if a 2x4 is put under the front wheel and then lower the bike which raises the inner nut whereas the washers are not needed.

[NE valkrider]

The "seal set" has both the oil seal and the dust seal.  You will need two sets, one for each fork.

[Joe333x]

Hello,

Finally getting around to rebuilding my front forks, but am also going to replace the springs with progressive. I found a good price on a set here https://www.denniskirk.com/progressive-suspension/front-fork-springs-40-70-spring-rate-lbs-in-11-1513.p581835.prd/581835.sku#rev-cont and at the moment I am looking at the OEM seals from Honda. Looking at the parts list I see the oil seal and the dust seal marked together under item named Seal Set. I can click the dust seal individually but not the oil seal.

I'm wondering if this "seal set" is both the oil seal and the dust stopper. I also have the top O-rings and the bottom washer seal in my cart so there is no concern about that. All in all the price of the "seal set" and the remaining seals is a lot lower than initially thought, but what about tools to do the job? I'd like to have everything needed to remove, dismantle, powder coat, reassemble, and reinstall all in one shot and not have to jerry rig absolutely everything like I always do.

I just did the same job, also replaced the sliders while I was there, probably didnt need it but figured might as well. The hardest part about the job is getting the bolt on the bottom of the fork out that holds the damper rod, it just keeps spinning. I ended up getting it out with an impact though. I recommend going an ounce or two less on fork oil. I measured exactly how the manual stated but it was a super harsh ride, I took out one ounce each and it made it a bit better, I will probably take another ounce out of each one next time I get the chance.

[Gearhead24]

Thanks for the tips, I'll be coming back through here if there's any trouble but it seems pretty straight forward.

[longrider]

I've had progressives for 20 years or more.  I did short the oil by and ounce.   Not sure I'd do it again.   Ride is super stable but rough.

[Gearhead24]

I've never done forks before so I'm just going to ask this, does having more oil make the ride softer or harder? I am more fond of a softer ride, but on these terrible california roads maybe harder is better. These forks have been leaking since day one for me, but riding up and down a private road in the boondocks with almost no lights made me hit a few unmarked speed bumps at 25-35 mph. Not a good idea but what's done is done, already looking at lighting solutions on the low end for now. My brother's 03 shadow has a cobra light bar on the front so I was considering making a "duplicate" out of cast aluminum, but that's for another thread if it works at all.

[98valk]

https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

https://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/

[h13man]

Using the correct amounts 10w per each leg with single wound Race Tech springs, no difference in ride after fork rebuild. No need to totally tear down unless you're changing springs. OEM only seals etc.

[Gearhead24]

Unrelated to the suspension rebuild, but I plan to powder coat the steering stem and top bridge as well as the forks. Looking through the shop manual, the only special tool called for is the steering stem socket. When it gets to bearing replacement other tools are mentioned, however I do not want to replace any bearings since they are working fine. As for that steering stem socket, I cannot find it anywhere for less than $50 so does anybody know what size that nut is? I can buy a standard socket and cut it into a locknut socket easily, would not be the first time.

[98valk]

Unrelated to the suspension rebuild, but I plan to powder coat the steering stem and top bridge as well as the forks. Looking through the shop manual, the only special tool called for is the steering stem socket. When it gets to bearing replacement other tools are mentioned, however I do not want to replace any bearings since they are working fine. As for that steering stem socket, I cannot find it anywhere for less than $50 so does anybody know what size that nut is? I can buy a standard socket and cut it into a locknut socket easily, would not be the first time.

I used another heater element wrench for the stem nut. after notching for the four teeth I had to shave about a 1/64" from the inside diameter so it with fit. worked great.