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Tx Bohemian
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« on: February 15, 2010, 08:17:21 AM » |
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My ’99 Standard has a clicking/squawking type sound coming from the rear with every revolution of the rear wheel. Doesn’t’ change with either one or two people on the bike. I can only hear it when I’m in a parking lot rolling and cut off the engine. (reason being a mix of 6-6 exhaust and a bit hard of hearing) Didn’t have a lot of time to look for the cause after our ride yesterday.
It kinda sounds rubbery why I call it a squawking sound.
This bike did sit up for about 2 ½ years and I’m not sure if it was on a bike jack or not. It has 17.5K miles.
Is there some common known problem these might have I should look for first?
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2010, 08:24:52 AM » |
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Sounds like the rear brake.......could just need cleaning and make sure the pistons are free and the pins are lubed.
Other things that can click are bearings (usually L rear) but that would act up onder load and on turns. Or the spline teeth being dry (especially pinion cup), but check the brake first
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Larry
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« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2010, 08:34:38 AM » |
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Ditto what Chris said. Have you done any rear "maintenance" on the bike?  |
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To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2010, 08:49:31 AM » |
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Yep to what the boys said.. From your 'squawk' description I'm kinda leaning towards the drive splines.. But, if its either bearing or dry splines the wheel has to come off..
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2010, 09:22:56 AM » |
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Check the air pressure in your tire. See if different tire pressure changes the sound!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Pete
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« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2010, 09:58:30 AM » |
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If you really think is has to do with rubber?
Some wear patterns on tires will give off a sound at low speed on smooth pavement.
One way to test is to hand roll the bike(engine off) on smooth clean concrete, to see if the sound is there.
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Quicksilver
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« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2010, 03:56:10 PM » |
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I had the left rear bearing sieze on mine and spin in the hub. This might be a similar problem. Can't tell until you pull the rear wheel off and check.
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1997 Standard   |
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Robert
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« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2010, 05:29:41 PM » |
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Sounds similar to mine that turned out to be the dampers in the wheel a touch of grease and the noise went away.
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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Tx Bohemian
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« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2010, 09:53:47 AM » |
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Thanks for the help fellas, a lot of good suggestions. Got my work cut out for me.
The rear has been pulled, probably when it was pretty new, to have the housing chromed. Not sure if it was greased or not then but I'm sure it's due by now. I'll be able to check the bearings, splines, damper, etc... when I get it off.
Thanks again.
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Logged
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
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jarob
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« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2010, 10:49:33 AM » |
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New to the board. I have a 98 standard that is experiencing something similar. The noise I get is more of a clunk. It came about last fall after a flat tire emergency in Virginia. The Honda dealer in Roanoak put the new tire on and on my way back to Michigan the noise started. I can feel it though the foot pegs. Took it to a local dealer (Roanoak shop busted a header bolt when removing pipes to change tire) to get the header stud replaced and investigate the clunk. Not to sure they did much investigating. They had no clue. Put the bike away for the winter and will dive into it this spring. Tx, I would be really interested in what you find when you tear it down. Any body have problems with the CV joint on the drive shaft?
Jarob
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Jarob
1998 Valkyrie Standard
2009 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2010, 06:45:25 AM » |
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Jarob, The exhaust really doesn't have to be removed to get the wheel off, there are ways around that.. A u-joint doesn't usually become a problem until the mileage starts building up.. A noise in the rear is generally a bearing or drive splines.. Its pretty easy for some one not familiar with these monsters to not check the bearings, not grease the drive splines, over-tighten the axle retainer or loosen and re-set the 4 rear drive/differential retainers when they have had the wheel off..
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jarob
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« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2010, 07:48:22 AM » |
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It was late on a Saturday afternoon when my rear tire blew. Plugged it and headed off to the closest dealer. It was close to closing time and the regular mechanic didn't want to do it. They put a rookie on the job and it took him forever. When I went back in shop so he could show me the stud he busted, the other mechanic told him he didn't have to take the pipes off. My guess is that he didn't do something he was supposed to do when he put the wheel back on. I was almost back to Michigan before the noise started. Oh, had to pull over to tighten the exhaust along the way home too. The noise almost sounds like a rock in a clothes dryer.
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Jarob
1998 Valkyrie Standard
2009 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager
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Challenger
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« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2010, 09:02:25 AM » |
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Jarob: Here is my experience, When I first got my used I/S it had a new tire on it, after about 100 miles or so it started clicking and grinding in the rear end, only on turns, the slower I drove the worse it got, I rode around in a parking lot for a while and it sounded horrible, going straight it was OK, When I removed the rear wheel I found the Rh spacer that sets against the RH wheel brg was not seated into the groove in the differential. Had to clean up the bore a little, reseat the spacer and reassembled. Been fine for over 25,000 miles now. I bring this up because a lot of people don't know that spacer can move when you remove the rear wheel. Good Luck!
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jarob
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« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2010, 10:54:51 AM » |
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Thanks, Challenger. I have put over 20,000 miles on the bike since I got it and this is the second rear tire I have bought. Took my bike to a dealer here in Michigan for the other tires with no problem. They even made mention that they also did all lubrication requirements with the tire change. My noise started out suttle going straight down the interstate at around 70 mph. I also felt it through the foot pegs. The noise was getting worse right before I put it up for the winter. I will find out for sure this spring when I get the bike over to a friend where he has all the tools and equipment to tackle it. When I get it figured out I will post my findings. I am getting the itch to get going as it is finally over 40 degrees here and the sun is shinning.
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Jarob
1998 Valkyrie Standard
2009 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2010, 11:38:14 AM » |
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I would not discount the possibility of a bad universal joint.
Hearing the cracking sound and feeling the vibration in the foot pegs certainly would indicate the possibility!
Remove the foot brake assembly (move it out of the way) and pry loose the rubber boot at the motor and you can easily inspect the universal.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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jarob
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« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2010, 12:34:22 PM » |
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Thanks for all the info. Just wish all the snow and salt were gone so I could get the bike to where I can tear into it.
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Jarob
1998 Valkyrie Standard
2009 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2010, 04:19:49 PM » |
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I had a similar feeling in the footpegs under light throttle. The u-joint was beginning to go on mine. I also replaced the wheel dampers at the same time as the u-joint. No more footpeg vibrations.
Shaun, sorry to steal your post. Hope you find your problem too. Yours sounds more like bearings to me.
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