Not great find need direction to go from here help (think solved for now)

[Jackl0426]

Well 90 percent of vibration gone now with pinion cup driveline change rear wheel dampers shock mount. Went out ran great felt pretty good. Rode about 35 miles. Pulled in garage.

Fired back up loud clack under left valve cover. Just clacks one time then instantly quits
 I hear no unusual noise while running reving nice and quiet. Shut it of start it and clack one time then quiet. So weird ghost in this machine. Anyone experience this. I’ve never heard such  a thing. Let sit for 10 and stops doing it ride for another 20 pull in garage it does it. So only doing at full operations temp

[Jims99]

Could it be your exhaust, maybe a heat shield?

[Jackl0426]

its really weird. only does it one time. clack after its hot and first start i can actually feel it under the valve cover. it will do it i hit the starter clack. then it starts. turn it off. hit start button clack one time starts runs no noise. let it cool 10 min it stops. heat it up clack one time starts then purs like a kitten. i hope this isnt the beginning of a boat adventure. you know the two happiest days the day u buy it and the day you sell it lol.

[Mooskee]

Maybe you should pull the valve cover and perform a visual inspection to either reveal or eliminate an issue.

[Jackl0426]

Yeah that will most liikely happen later today. Valve cover gasket reusable? I thought maybe someone may have experienced this issue before I pull off to inspect.

[Jackl0426]

Well not great news all valves in spec there are no metal chunks. But grey sludge in vale cover left side something wearing not good rockers all look ok. Pulled others side all clean I hear no bad noise from that side when running so maybe big issue. Don’t know iwhat to do next. Well update not all the lobes on cams are shiney anymore both cams so I assume it was run low on oil or something bad. Now what I would have to pull heads I’m sure and huge price on Parts’s cams bearings rockers well at least I feel like I’m going to throw up now. Sell and  take the loss find used engine wow what heart break

[Jackl0426]

So. No advice scrap it or

[Willow]

It might be good to do a compression check to see if you really do have an issue.

Incidentally, a used engine from a wrecked Valkyrie normally goes for about $500.  Please don't ask me how I know.

[Timbo1]

Kind of having a hard time following you, but if you were looking for a clack and all valves are in spec although cams are not shiney... what are you attributing to the clacking?  

You might be able to have the cams polished or replace used from ebay if necessary but I'd try to identify exactly what is making the noise before swapping out parts.

I would think anything wearing abnormally would be distributed throughout the engine and caught in the oil filter.  I'd probably drain the oil and cut the oil filter apart and inspect it for metal / shiny particulate etc...  Pictures of the grey sludge would give us a better idea of what your seeing.  Remember the left valve cover doesn't drain back into the engine completely when set on the kickstand so it makes sense that it would hold more particulate over it's life compared to the right.

[Jackl0426]

been a mechanic for a long time. ill do a compression check but i know dull cam lobes are not a good sign. this engine is probably toast. sucks i just bought it. owner seemed like a good guy never know now a days if he knew or not. he just spent a ton of money on rebuilding carbs i have recieps. why spend money on something if you know its bad. ugggggg.

[Jackl0426]

sorry guys frustrated as h..ll now. sorry i know im probably not making much sense late im tired. so yes i was trying to find ths mysterious clack it happens when its hot on the first start only then all sound normal. let it cool it does not do it.again till its hot then does it again on first start. it definatly sounds like a clack sound right under that left valve cover. so i pulled the left valve cover. checked all the valves. all in spec. no metal flates or chunks but grey sludge wearing. so i glanced at the cam and only one shiney lobe left. i can run my finger acrossed them and get the grey coler nickel or chrome or what ever gone. so i pulled the right valve cover. and same deal no grey sludge in cover but cams are dull worn bad so rockers heve to be to and probably bearings too. im not sure but heads probably have to be pulled to remove cams and replace bearings etc. i dont know how it happened not something i did. i checked oil bifore i bought it was full and is now. just a shock right now. and now i would have to wonder how this happened. and how are rod and crank bearings now. oil appears clean. just shocked right now i know things happen but suck to think if this guy knew. never found clack issue maybe cam brearing. i hope this makes sensce any questions please ask really wanted a valkyrie for ever now all this. i cleaned them now i can get pics of cam tomorrow i put it back together ran it for a few.

the grey sludge looked like moly paste. like oil full of metal not aluminum all the shine is definatly gone off cams one shiney lobe left so its got to be metal to metal on worn cams and rockers.

[Jackl0426]

oh yeah pics of cams on ebay etc like any other cam shoud be all nice shiney lobes thes cams are toast now wonder why? was run low on oil? would be my guess. cant continue to run it. guess i have a choice to make try to make repairs. hope rod bearings and main bearings are ok. find another engine. or sell and cut my loss not screwing the next guy sell it for parts damn what a bummer

[HayHauler]

To pull the cams, you don't have to remove the head.  I have done this while looking for an oil leak.  I replaced both seals on the front and back of the cams.  You just have to remove the pulley on the front, the cover behind the pulley, remove the plate on the back of the head, the valve cover, then the bolts holding the valve train on.
Sadly, there are no cam bearings to replace.  The journals are part of the head.    If the cam and rockers are shot, you will need replacement heads.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Jackl0426]

May end up cutting my loss at this point. No telling what rest of engine looks like inside. I won’t know about journals unless I tear it down more if they are bad to I will let it go. Buy an engine off eBay probably run into same things. I don’t know this sucks that’s what we get into when we buy used bikes.

[John Schmidt]

It might be good to do a compression check to see if you really do have an issue.

Incidentally, a used engine from a wrecked Valkyrie normally goes for about $500.  Please don't ask me how I know.

This blonde gal I know was reading this over my shoulder and I heard an evil giggle...followed by "ok, you have to ask just to bug him." 

[Willow]

It might be good to do a compression check to see if you really do have an issue.

Incidentally, a used engine from a wrecked Valkyrie normally goes for about $500.  Please don't ask me how I know.

This blonde gal I know was reading this over my shoulder and I heard an evil giggle...followed by "ok, you have to ask just to bug him." 

LOL!  She does have an evil streak.   

[Jackl0426]

video links
https://youtu.be/EUGpENhLHxI
https://youtu.be/pNXj_DdepVM

here are a couple vids. i just dont understand what happened i hadnt done anything to the engine other than check the oil. had to have already been going on when i bought it. when i pulled valve cover plenty of oil came out so its getting oil up there. dont know what to do next.

[Timbo1]

I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary on either of those videos other than when you pulled on #2 rocker seemed like a lot of gap,  going from memory of 20 or so yrs ago I was thinking the gap was something like .006?   You might want to double check on the valves. 

With all the contamination in the engine it's hard to know from what for sure, and flushing the engine might help clean some of it out but it'll continue until you fix what's wearing.

If it were me I would flush the engine, pull the cams and inspect the bearing journals, rockers etc.  I'd probably find the best cams or heads I could on ebay or call Pinwall cycle to see what they have.  They used to have videos of the bikes running before dismantling them so they know what the condition of the parts are for the most part. It probably comes down to how much you want to spend or how much sweat equity you want to put into it.  Replacing the cams or heads would probably cost about as much as replacing the engine with a used one.   Wish I had better suggestions for you.  I do suggest be careful with those valve covers on the concrete, if you get it running properly you wont want those scratches in the covers and they are somewhat expensive in good condition.

[Jackl0426]

yes they are not loud when cold niose is when fully warned up. only on a first start. i dont want to fully warm it up any more the more i run it the more damage that is ocurring im sure. i dont know if you could see 4 out of the 4  cam lobes are completly bare metal no chrome nickel or hardened materil left that is where the wear is. i cant run it much  or drive it for sure. you see when i run paper towel across them it turns black steel now that hardened metal is gone cams will fail fast. rockers probably toast. i wont know for sure unless i tear down and remove at least the one cam if journals bad then i will need heads also so yeah exactly depends if i want to put more money into it or not. good call on the valve cover. thanks. i would think buying an engine off ebay would be pretty risky also end up with same or worse engine someone on here much more trust worthy if anyone had one. and fireing it up once or twice a week for a few minutes too keep carb jets flushed etc. i dont want carb problems one good thing no carb isues knock on wood.

[Timbo1]

Maybe someone else with more head experience will chime in and give better suggestions.   You might also try to contact the Attic Rat.  Last I heard he was trying to retire but if you could get a chance to chat with him he could probably give you some options.  I think his banner with contact info still pops up on the forum.

[Jackl0426]

HI all
New turn of events. i had a very nice gentleman named sandy hit me up local. he wanted to come by put a second set of eyes on it. he stopped by today and calmed me down. i had let the idea i wasted a bunch of money and who know it happens when we buy used stuff. anyway. pulled valve covers and assured me cams are fine hes been into nothing but valkyrie for many years. im a mechanic but not a valk mechanic been working on bikes for many years but this is a whole new beast. i dont know what the grey matter is or was. i will keep my eye on it. he also said he encounters the same clank on forst hot start too. i dont know maybe because its so especially hot here in phoenix will keep eye on it also. i cut a filter absolutly perfectly clean. not a sighn of metal or grey matter. changed the oil and it looked normal seemed not changed for a long time changed oil shined her all up gonna ride once it cools off and just keep my eye on things. thank u all if anything changes will let you know i still get a slight vibration at around 54 to 56 miles an hour so i will back order a ujoint maybe it will come in at some point incase. for now gonna ride come halloweeen still way to hot here.

thank you all and thank you so much sandy for contacting me.

[Timbo1]

Glad he was able to come help you.  There's some super people on this forum.  If it were mine I'd still flush the engine, maybe a  couple times to get as much of the contamination out of it.  The contamination is like abrasives and will cause other moving parts to wear quicker than it should.

[Jackl0426]

yes im thinking another oil change in near near future. put a few miles on her change again and new filter to further get out any contaminates.

[h13man]

Well this "sound" is usually made by older/looser high mileage vehicles. Just a thought, how do you check your oil level? Loose stick on top the threads is the correct procedure. This alone can cause a lack of oil or slowing the cold feed on start up or after being warmed up.

[Jackl0426]

Yes always check oil with bike upright. Stick top of threads. I’ve only owned this bike for 3weeks.

[F6Dave]

For further peace of mind, you might want to have the oil analyzed the next time you change it. I use Blackstone Labs, and they measure several wear metals including iron, copper, lead, tin, and chromium. The report will compare your results with other GL1500s, which helps determine if your bearings, rings, and other components are wearing normally. They'll also check for things like coolant intrusion and fuel dilution. Visit their website (https://www.blackstone-labs.com/) to request a free postage paid test kit.

Here's a test of my '98 Tourer run at 176,592 miles:

[Jackl0426]

Nice I will do that thank u

[F6Dave]

I just noticed something in my oil analysis: the test showed 77 PPM of molybdenum. I run Mobil 1 15W-50, which doesn't have the 'Energy Conserving' label on the bottle. 77 PPM is similar to the amount of moly in the 5W-30 oil I run in my car and truck. So apparently 'Energy Conserving' does NOT necessarily mean moly-free. And in nearly 200,000 miles, a significant about of moly hasn't caused any clutch slippage in my '98 Tourer.

For further peace of mind, you might want to have the oil analyzed the next time you change it. I use Blackstone Labs, and they measure several wear metals including iron, copper, lead, tin, and chromium. The report will compare your results with other GL1500s, which helps determine if your bearings, rings, and other components are wearing normally. They'll also check for things like coolant intrusion and fuel dilution. Visit their website (https://www.blackstone-labs.com/) to request a free postage paid test kit.

Here's a test of my '98 Tourer run at 176,592 miles:

[Jackl0426]

That’s interesting. I’m gonna pull one next oil change I’ll be nervous.

[98valk]

I just noticed something in my oil analysis: the test showed 77 PPM of molybdenum. I run Mobil 1 15W-50, which doesn't have the 'Energy Conserving' label on the bottle. 77 PPM is similar to the amount of moly in the 5W-30 oil I run in my car and truck. So apparently 'Energy Conserving' does NOT necessarily mean moly-free. And in nearly 200,000 miles, a significant about of moly hasn't caused any clutch slippage in my '98 Tourer.

For further peace of mind, you might want to have the oil analyzed the next time you change it. I use Blackstone Labs, and they measure several wear metals including iron, copper, lead, tin, and chromium. The report will compare your results with other GL1500s, which helps determine if your bearings, rings, and other components are wearing normally. They'll also check for things like coolant intrusion and fuel dilution. Visit their website (https://www.blackstone-labs.com/) to request a free postage paid test kit.

Here's a test of my '98 Tourer run at 176,592 miles:

SAE 961217 report, states 500-700 ppm of moly and at higher temps causes slippage and then the report alluded more to starter clutches and varible transmissions in scooters than main engine clutches.
Torco does or used to have at least 500ppm in the their motorcycle oil. Mobil motorcycle oil has had 70-90ppm of moly last time I checked.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/moly-levels-in-motorcycle-oils.240692/

[F6Dave]

I had oil from my F-150 (with the Coyote V8) analyzed and it had 83 PPM of moly. I was running Mobil 1 5W-30. That's so close to the 77 PPM in the Valk's 15W-50 test that I have to assume all M1's automotive oils use similar amounts of moly. Based on those numbers I doubt it's close to the 500 PPM the SAE report warns about, unless the moly somehow gets depleted.

SAE 961217 report, states 500-700 ppm of moly and at higher temps causes slippage and then the report alluded more to starter clutches and varible transmissions in scooters than main engine clutches.
Torco does or used to have at least 500ppm in the their motorcycle oil. Mobil motorcycle oil has had 70-90ppm of moly last time I checked.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/moly-levels-in-motorcycle-oils.240692/

[Rio Wil]

i'M guessing the rocker arm assy is loose or the cam timing gear is loose to make the one time clack.....
The cam gear has a surprising amount of wiggle in it even tho it is keyed.....kinda makes a clack.

[Jackl0426]

hi thanks for your input. rocker assembly was torqued to spec not loose at all. i will  check timing pulley on that cam when i check the belts.