Alternator or carbs

[Gearhead24]

Just got stranded on my way home from work today. Was cruising the freeway at 90 and all of a sudden throttle would not exceed 4000 rpm and the motor wanted to cut every time I pulled the clutch. Pulled over and tried starting it. It would fire and stumble with no choke but once I put the choke on it fired up and stayed running. Desperate to get home I got back on the freeway but only made it one exit before it did it again even worse. Bike started sputtering as if it was out of gas even though I filled up this morning and can still see liquid fuel in the tank. The second time it died I tried cranking it over again and the battery went dead within 10 seconds of cranking. Battery is from this spring. I did put a 6 inch led light bar on it but I almost never use it so I cannot see that having too much draw and killing the alternator. Got a buddy coming with a trailer to get me home and the next two days to get this solved. Any thoughts are appreciated

[98valk]

petcock diaphragm might have failed stopping fuel flow. just rebuild it. good luck

[Gearhead24]

After letting the bike sit for over an hour I tried starting it and it cranked and fired. The bike idled for a minute but I shut it off. I think the fuel line from the petcock has gotten clogged from my failing tank liner. Once I get it home I’m rebuilding the carbs and will rebuild the petcock as well. Once I get everything for the shock and brake rebuild I’ll also get a tank liner kit

[Joe333x]

After letting the bike sit for over an hour I tried starting it and it cranked and fired. The bike idled for a minute but I shut it off. I think the fuel line from the petcock has gotten clogged from my failing tank liner. Once I get it home I’m rebuilding the carbs and will rebuild the petcock as well. Once I get everything for the shock and brake rebuild I’ll also get a tank liner kit

You can also buy a manual petcock instead of rebuilding the stock one that uses vacuum. Pair it with an electric fuel shut off and you reduce your risk of hydrolock. Honda part number 16950-mal-603 will work.

[Hook#3287]

Sounds like fuel starvation to me.

[old2soon]

    MAYBE  fuel tank vent line. Sometimes mud daubers-wasps-like to build nests there. RIDE SAFE.

[John Schmidt]

Those are all good suggestions, but my first thought was "what's the purpose of running 90mph?" If you see blockage 200 yards ahead that bike better turn into a helicopter. Most freeways simple have too much traffic to running that fast, especially at quitting time.

[Gearhead24]

Pulled the petcock and had to pry the filter out from the tank. The top of the filter had been cut by PO so any fuel coming in through the top was unfiltered. Because of this I already got the carbs out and will be running through those. Took the petcock apart and it looked clean inside with nothing clogged. The filter did have degraded tank liner all over the sides so it was definitely starving of fuel. Still doesn’t explain the battery going dead almost immediately. Once carbs and petcock are good I’ll test alternator. To respond to John Schmidt, in Sacramento even the slow lane is holding 70. The carpool lane is almost always running 85 and these drivers are too aggressive for me to sit there and do whatever speed I feel like

[98valk]

Pulled the petcock and had to pry the filter out from the tank. The top of the filter had been cut by PO so any fuel coming in through the top was unfiltered. Because of this I already got the carbs out and will be running through those. Took the petcock apart and it looked clean inside with nothing clogged. The filter did have degraded tank liner all over the sides so it was definitely starving of fuel. Still doesn’t explain the battery going dead almost immediately. Once carbs and petcock are good I’ll test alternator. To respond to John Schmidt, in Sacramento even the slow lane is holding 70. The carpool lane is almost always running 85 and these drivers are too aggressive for me to sit there and do whatever speed I feel like

each carb body fuel inlet has a none removable filter screen which is a larger micron rating than the in tank filter screen.

[Gearhead24]

When I got the carbs off I removed the bowls and sprayed carb cleaner through every single port in both directions, along with the fuel lines and the breather lines. Used compressed air to clean out the lines even further then put it all back together. Disassembled the petcock and drenched everything in carb cleaner, then put that back together. I replaced the fuel lines with proper 3/8 and not 5/16 which was on prior and installed an inline filter for extra peace of mind. After all that was done I was still having trouble getting it started. Battery would click like it was dead or just super slow crank, culprit was the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay. The fuse had not blown but the plastic around the fuse had melted. Relay was fine, replaced the fuse and the bike fired right up. Have it on a tender for tonight just to make sure the battery gets reconditioned properly

[Joe333x]

When I got the carbs off I removed the bowls and sprayed carb cleaner through every single port in both directions, along with the fuel lines and the breather lines. Used compressed air to clean out the lines even further then put it all back together. Disassembled the petcock and drenched everything in carb cleaner, then put that back together. I replaced the fuel lines with proper 3/8 and not 5/16 which was on prior and installed an inline filter for extra peace of mind. After all that was done I was still having trouble getting it started. Battery would click like it was dead or just super slow crank, culprit was the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay. The fuse had not blown but the plastic around the fuse had melted. Relay was fine, replaced the fuse and the bike fired right up. Have it on a tender for tonight just to make sure the battery gets reconditioned properly

Be careful not to get carb cleaner in the air cut off valves. A better way to clean them if you have to again is to separate each carb from the rack and use an ultrasonic cleaner then blow out the water with an air gun.

[98valk]

When I got the carbs off I removed the bowls and sprayed carb cleaner through every single port in both directions, along with the fuel lines and the breather lines. Used compressed air to clean out the lines even further then put it all back together. Disassembled the petcock and drenched everything in carb cleaner, then put that back together. I replaced the fuel lines with proper 3/8 and not 5/16 which was on prior and installed an inline filter for extra peace of mind. After all that was done I was still having trouble getting it started. Battery would click like it was dead or just super slow crank, culprit was the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay. The fuse had not blown but the plastic around the fuse had melted. Relay was fine, replaced the fuse and the bike fired right up. Have it on a tender for tonight just to make sure the battery gets reconditioned properly

"inline filter for extra peace of mind" very bad idea. gravity feed system,  inline filters will restrict fuel flow causing lean condition under certain operations.  even if u used an inline filter for a gravity system, they are usually a large micron filter designed for a max 50 hp lawn equipment engine and can't support a 100HP. lean condition will also occur.

[Joe333x]

This is my setup, courtesy of David at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services. It uses an electric fuel shut off and then two inline filters one for each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3. I'm running 105 main and 38 pilot jets and have no issues with fuel starvation.

[Avanti]

If you really want to check a fuel filter system for fuel starvation, ride two up pulling a 450 lb trailer up US 14a Wyoming in 85 to 90+ degree temperatures which has a 10 percent grade climb, blind turns, and winding stretches covering 9 to 10 miles.  If you do not run short of fuel or vapor lock than your fuel system is up to any task.

[98valk]

This is my setup, courtesy of David at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services. It uses an electric fuel shut off and then two inline filters one for each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3. I'm running 105 main and 38 pilot jets and have no issues with fuel starvation.

Jet size has zero to due with fuel starvation. fuel starvation due to fuel supply will cause a lower fuel level in the bowl resulting in an incorrect air/fuel ratio.
"each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3" there are also non-removable fuel filter screens in the bowl inlet of each carb.

Those jets are way too rich for a stock engine. results in less power, more carbon buildup on piston tops, and less mpg.
I have air box mods, viking headers, and ported/polished high velocity heads, and it needs 38 pilot jets and 102 mains front two carbs, and 105 mains for the other four.

"It always is what the engine wants and not what we think it wants"  Marc- FactoryPro owner.

[Joe333x]

This is my setup, courtesy of David at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services. It uses an electric fuel shut off and then two inline filters one for each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3. I'm running 105 main and 38 pilot jets and have no issues with fuel starvation.

Jet size has zero to due with fuel starvation. fuel starvation due to fuel supply will cause a lower fuel level in the bowl resulting in an incorrect air/fuel ratio.
"each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3" there are also non-removable fuel filter screens in the bowl inlet of each carb.

Those jets are way too rich for a stock engine. results in less power, more carbon buildup on piston tops, and less mpg.
I have air box mods, viking headers, and ported/polished high velocity heads, and it needs 38 pilot jets and 102 mains front two carbs, and 105 mains for the other four.

"It always is what the engine wants and not what we think it wants"  Marc- FactoryPro owner.

My point on mentioning jet size is that I am supplying more fuel than stock with larger jets with no starvation issues. Once again you chime in with theoretical information without first hand experience. Obviously I do not have a problem with fuel starvation with my setup which was the point of me posting it. I'd much rather have any debri stop at the inline filters than make it into the carbs. A hell of a lot easier to replace or clean the inline filter than take the carbs apart. My jets are larger because I am running straight piped 4 inch truck stacks. I tuned the carbs with a Colortune and the combustion is nice and blue as is it should be so no I am not running rich.

[98valk]

This is my setup, courtesy of David at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services. It uses an electric fuel shut off and then two inline filters one for each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3. I'm running 105 main and 38 pilot jets and have no issues with fuel starvation.

Jet size has zero to due with fuel starvation. fuel starvation due to fuel supply will cause a lower fuel level in the bowl resulting in an incorrect air/fuel ratio.
"each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3" there are also non-removable fuel filter screens in the bowl inlet of each carb.

Those jets are way too rich for a stock engine. results in less power, more carbon buildup on piston tops, and less mpg.
I have air box mods, viking headers, and ported/polished high velocity heads, and it needs 38 pilot jets and 102 mains front two carbs, and 105 mains for the other four.

"It always is what the engine wants and not what we think it wants"  Marc- FactoryPro owner.

My point on mentioning jet size is that I am supplying more fuel than stock with larger jets with no starvation issues. Once again you chime in with theoretical information without first hand experience. Obviously I do not have a problem with fuel starvation with my setup which was the point of me posting it. I'd much rather have any debri stop at the inline filters than make it into the carbs. A hell of a lot easier to replace or clean the inline filter than take the carbs apart. My jets are larger because I am running straight piped 4 inch truck stacks. I tuned the carbs with a Colortune and the combustion is nice and blue as is it should be so no I am not running rich.

not theoretical info. u really don't understand how carbs work by what u write.
 try talking to racing carb experts like Marc of Factorypro.
 restricting fuel flow to carbs is just less available fuel and lower fuel level in the bowl, using larger jets does nothing for less fuel flow. It seems u have never read about engines blowing up on the drag strip due to loss of fuel flow.
are u using third world dirty gasoline full of debris? u have an excellent filter inside of the tank.
unless u are allowing more air in via air box modifications with the larger pipes u don't need bigger jets.
the filters u are using, are they gravity feed filters? which have a very large micron rating and aren't stopping much debris, they are designed for power equipment.
 Colortune only works at idle and does not show air/fuel ratio under load and/or at higher rpms.
u really need to get on a factorypro aka mustang dyno with gas analyzer to see how wrong u really are.

I did. due to ethanol in fuel which does lean out the mixture plus my air box mods and viking exhaust I use a larger main jet.  on the dyno found out I was 3 jet sizes too rich. so dropped down the mains the bike really woke up. The dyno operator who is a Pro-stock motorcycle drag racing champion, told me i had the right idea but just went to rich. He said just do your initial testing from now on in third gear on the highway.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html

suggest u also read this fluid flow book.
https://www.cranebsu.com/en/news/view/new-flow-of-fluids-tp-410-2018-edition-now-available

Good Luck.

[Joe333x]

This is my setup, courtesy of David at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services. It uses an electric fuel shut off and then two inline filters one for each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3. I'm running 105 main and 38 pilot jets and have no issues with fuel starvation.

Jet size has zero to due with fuel starvation. fuel starvation due to fuel supply will cause a lower fuel level in the bowl resulting in an incorrect air/fuel ratio.
"each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3" there are also non-removable fuel filter screens in the bowl inlet of each carb.

Those jets are way too rich for a stock engine. results in less power, more carbon buildup on piston tops, and less mpg.
I have air box mods, viking headers, and ported/polished high velocity heads, and it needs 38 pilot jets and 102 mains front two carbs, and 105 mains for the other four.

"It always is what the engine wants and not what we think it wants"  Marc- FactoryPro owner.

My point on mentioning jet size is that I am supplying more fuel than stock with larger jets with no starvation issues. Once again you chime in with theoretical information without first hand experience. Obviously I do not have a problem with fuel starvation with my setup which was the point of me posting it. I'd much rather have any debri stop at the inline filters than make it into the carbs. A hell of a lot easier to replace or clean the inline filter than take the carbs apart. My jets are larger because I am running straight piped 4 inch truck stacks. I tuned the carbs with a Colortune and the combustion is nice and blue as is it should be so no I am not running rich.

not theoretical info. u really don't understand how carbs work by what u write.
 try talking to racing carb experts like Marc of Factorypro.
 restricting fuel flow to carbs is just less available fuel and lower fuel level in the bowl, using larger jets does nothing for less fuel flow. It seems u have never read about engines blowing up on the drag strip due to loss of fuel flow.
are u using third world dirty gasoline full of debris? u have an excellent filter inside of the tank.
unless u are allowing more air in via air box modifications with the larger pipes u don't need bigger jets.
the filters u are using, are they gravity feed filters? which have a very large micron rating and aren't stopping much debris, they are designed for power equipment.
 Colortune only works at idle and does not show air/fuel ratio under load and/or at higher rpms.
u really need to get on a factorypro aka mustang dyno with gas analyzer to see how wrong u really are.

I did. due to ethanol in fuel which does lean out the mixture plus my air box mods and viking exhaust I use a larger main jet.  on the dyno found out I was 3 jet sizes too rich. so dropped down the mains the bike really woke up. The dyno operator who is a Pro-stock motorcycle drag racing champion, told me i had the right idea but just went to rich. He said just do your initial testing from now on in third gear on the highway.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html

suggest u also read this fluid flow book.
https://www.cranebsu.com/en/news/view/new-flow-of-fluids-tp-410-2018-edition-now-available

Good Luck.

You're absolutely wrong and always show it when it comes to carbs because you're the same guy who goes on and on about tightening bolts to fix leaks and says o rings last forever. I'll take the advice of David Wilder and Jared Hinkle over the most hated person on this forum. I wish there was an ignore function on here so that you could just be blocked by since you provide no actual helpful information and just post ignorant comments then the mods have to come through and delete posts. The Colortune does not just work at idle you can use it all through the RPM range in order to make sure you are burning blue the entire time. Please stop making comments on posts about things that you have no first hand experience with. I have completely tore down and rebuilt the carbs, colortuned and digisynced them and they absolutely are not starved of fuel my setup is the exact same that Hinkle and Wilder provide and if you know absolutely anything about carbs you know they know what they are doing.

You constantly post links to information but thats the problem, you are book smart, you read and read and regurgitate what you read to the forum but you don't actually listen to people who have worked on, rebuilt and tuned these carbs. Once again you are the engineer that tries to tell the guy actually doing the job that hes wrong when hes the one with the experience doing it and all you have is the blueprint.

[98valk]

This is my setup, courtesy of David at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services. It uses an electric fuel shut off and then two inline filters one for each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3. I'm running 105 main and 38 pilot jets and have no issues with fuel starvation.

Jet size has zero to due with fuel starvation. fuel starvation due to fuel supply will cause a lower fuel level in the bowl resulting in an incorrect air/fuel ratio.
"each side of carbs so each filter only serves 3" there are also non-removable fuel filter screens in the bowl inlet of each carb.

Those jets are way too rich for a stock engine. results in less power, more carbon buildup on piston tops, and less mpg.
I have air box mods, viking headers, and ported/polished high velocity heads, and it needs 38 pilot jets and 102 mains front two carbs, and 105 mains for the other four.

"It always is what the engine wants and not what we think it wants"  Marc- FactoryPro owner.

My point on mentioning jet size is that I am supplying more fuel than stock with larger jets with no starvation issues. Once again you chime in with theoretical information without first hand experience. Obviously I do not have a problem with fuel starvation with my setup which was the point of me posting it. I'd much rather have any debri stop at the inline filters than make it into the carbs. A hell of a lot easier to replace or clean the inline filter than take the carbs apart. My jets are larger because I am running straight piped 4 inch truck stacks. I tuned the carbs with a Colortune and the combustion is nice and blue as is it should be so no I am not running rich.

not theoretical info. u really don't understand how carbs work by what u write.
 try talking to racing carb experts like Marc of Factorypro.
 restricting fuel flow to carbs is just less available fuel and lower fuel level in the bowl, using larger jets does nothing for less fuel flow. It seems u have never read about engines blowing up on the drag strip due to loss of fuel flow.
are u using third world dirty gasoline full of debris? u have an excellent filter inside of the tank.
unless u are allowing more air in via air box modifications with the larger pipes u don't need bigger jets.
the filters u are using, are they gravity feed filters? which have a very large micron rating and aren't stopping much debris, they are designed for power equipment.
 Colortune only works at idle and does not show air/fuel ratio under load and/or at higher rpms.
u really need to get on a factorypro aka mustang dyno with gas analyzer to see how wrong u really are.

I did. due to ethanol in fuel which does lean out the mixture plus my air box mods and viking exhaust I use a larger main jet.  on the dyno found out I was 3 jet sizes too rich. so dropped down the mains the bike really woke up. The dyno operator who is a Pro-stock motorcycle drag racing champion, told me i had the right idea but just went to rich. He said just do your initial testing from now on in third gear on the highway.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html

suggest u also read this fluid flow book.
https://www.cranebsu.com/en/news/view/new-flow-of-fluids-tp-410-2018-edition-now-available

Good Luck.

You're absolutely wrong and always show it when it comes to carbs because you're the same guy who goes on and on about tightening bolts to fix leaks and says o rings last forever. I'll take the advice of David Wilder and Jared Hinkle over the most hated person on this forum. I wish there was an ignore function on here so that you could just be blocked by since you provide no actual helpful information and just post ignorant comments then the mods have to come through and delete posts. The Colortune does not just work at idle you can use it all through the RPM range in order to make sure you are burning blue the entire time. Please stop making comments on posts about things that you have no first hand experience with. I have completely tore down and rebuilt the carbs, colortuned and digisynced them and they absolutely are not starved of fuel my setup is the exact same that Hinkle and Wilder provide and if you know absolutely anything about carbs you know they know what they are doing.

You constantly post links to information but thats the problem, you are book smart, you read and read and regurgitate what you read to the forum but you don't actually listen to people who have worked on, rebuilt and tuned these carbs. Once again you are the engineer that tries to tell the guy actually doing the job that hes wrong when hes the one with the experience doing it and all you have is the blueprint.

 

I've had a colortune for decades, the instructions are very clear it only works Easily for idle.
so here are a bunch of people stating the same thing.
https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/483977/does-a-color-tune-work-anyone-used-one

unless u can put a load on the engine up to 5k rpms, SAFELY while keeping ones foot on the rear brake to see the spark flame. Is that what u did? Or did u just free rev your engine up to 5k rpms with zero load?
"up the rev range to 5000 (5000 rpm is the limit
on the Colortune) "    So the upper RPM range of the Valkyrie engine is over 1k rpms more than 5k rpms.  So without going to say 6500 rpms under load You do not know if the main jet is correctly sized, which must be right so all the other circuits of the carb can be correctly tuned.
I know more than u think, been there done that.
Good Bye.
as talked about by David Vizard here.  u do know who Mr Vizard is don't u?
https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/proper-use-of-the-gunson-colortune.78611/

[John Schmidt]

SNIP..."To respond to John Schmidt, in Sacramento even the slow lane is holding 70. The carpool lane is almost always running 85 and these drivers are too aggressive for me to sit there and do whatever speed I feel like"

I understand, sounds like the last time I rode through Chicago near quitting time. Never again! 

[rug_burn]

Someone may have said it before me, I didn't read all those posts, but for sure:
  Clean, maybe with a small fine file, that that female side of that spade terminal which receives the fuse and was corroded and probably overheated.   Also, take a pair of duckbill or needle nose pliers and squeeze it tighter before reinserting the fuse, and apply some decent oil, like 3 in 1 or LPS2 to give it a little corrosion protection.   
   Sounds to me like maybe this is the root problem, but it's hard to tell from here.   

[Joe333x]

 

I've had a colortune for decades, the instructions are very clear it only works Easily for idle.
so here are a bunch of people stating the same thing.
https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/483977/does-a-color-tune-work-anyone-used-one

unless u can put a load on the engine up to 5k rpms, SAFELY while keeping ones foot on the rear brake to see the spark flame. Is that what u did? Or did u just free rev your engine up to 5k rpms with zero load?
"up the rev range to 5000 (5000 rpm is the limit
on the Colortune) "    So the upper RPM range of the Valkyrie engine is over 1k rpms more than 5k rpms.  So without going to say 6500 rpms under load You do not know if the main jet is correctly sized, which must be right so all the other circuits of the carb can be correctly tuned.
I know more than u think, been there done that.
Good Bye.
as talked about by David Vizard here.  u do know who Mr Vizard is don't u?
https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/proper-use-of-the-gunson-colortune.78611/

There is no RPM limit on the Colortune. Here is the manual.
http://www.gunsontools.co.uk/items/pdf/Products/G4074_Instructions.pdf
If the combustion on each cylinder is blue at 3000rpm in neutral its tuned just fine you dont need to have a load on the engine to use the Colortune. I trust the guys like Jarded Hinkle and Dave Wilder at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services who have rebuilt and tuned more Valkyries than probably anyone else and Dave is an extremely knowledgeable and helpful guy and I followed his advice on jets and tuning, and what do you know, my bike bike runs amazing. First hand experience will always win over theoretical information.

[rug_burn]

And, in those photos, that black thing which the fuel line goes into:   what is that?    Mines only got a T there.   Aftermarket filter what?  Is that basically just an aluminum T?

[Joe333x]

And, in those photos, that black thing which the fuel line goes into:   what is that?    Mines only got a T there.   Aftermarket filter what?  Is that basically just an aluminum T?

That is an electric fuel shut off, an AFC-121. The filters are the clear circle pieces on each line heading into the carbs.

[98valk]

 

I've had a colortune for decades, the instructions are very clear it only works Easily for idle.
so here are a bunch of people stating the same thing.
https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/483977/does-a-color-tune-work-anyone-used-one

unless u can put a load on the engine up to 5k rpms, SAFELY while keeping ones foot on the rear brake to see the spark flame. Is that what u did? Or did u just free rev your engine up to 5k rpms with zero load?
"up the rev range to 5000 (5000 rpm is the limit
on the Colortune) "    So the upper RPM range of the Valkyrie engine is over 1k rpms more than 5k rpms.  So without going to say 6500 rpms under load You do not know if the main jet is correctly sized, which must be right so all the other circuits of the carb can be correctly tuned.
I know more than u think, been there done that.
Good Bye.
as talked about by David Vizard here.  u do know who Mr Vizard is don't u?
https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/proper-use-of-the-gunson-colortune.78611/

There is no RPM limit on the Colortune. Here is the manual.
http://www.gunsontools.co.uk/items/pdf/Products/G4074_Instructions.pdf
If the combustion on each cylinder is blue at 3000rpm in neutral its tuned just fine you dont need to have a load on the engine to use the Colortune. I trust the guys like Jarded Hinkle and Dave Wilder at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/services who have rebuilt and tuned more Valkyries than probably anyone else and Dave is an extremely knowledgeable and helpful guy and I followed his advice on jets and tuning, and what do you know, my bike bike runs amazing. First hand experience will always win over theoretical information.

amazing.  colortune is good for idle and gets one in the ballpark for higher rpms. it seems u are stating u rev your engine to 6500 rpms unloaded and hold it there at that rpm to read the colortune? not healthy at all for an engine.  the engine needs a load to be an accurate tune. that's why racers use a dyno with a load to be in the ballpark. perfect real world tuning is done on the track with a load and ambient air conditions including the mass of air that has to be pushed. Mikuini states that a perfect carb tune with the correct main jet max power is only good for +/- 25F. wow, how do I know that?
here u can see some of the first hand experience I've done. lots of carb tuning since the heads pulled so hard I had to down size the jets and then figure out how to adjust the bowl fuel level when the floats are non-adjustable.
this is how one correctly tunes a carb.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html
I could write all day but u have your mind set up against me.
Jesus stated never to hate anyone, yet u hate me and think others do also. take a poll and find out.

you are like others, I proved that with a picture that the floats internal spring has nothing to do with the floats needle sealing in an over flow condition which prevents hydrolock. I even proved Moody a very good mechanic who builds turbo valkyries who was using an extra spring for the needle to close the float needle was wrong. it just doesn't work that way. basic carburetor float needle and seat design.(I've rebuilt motorcraft and holley carburetors decades ago). I know how they work including CV carbs. (I have plenty of hands on experience with vehicles and at a Marine industrial level, where I worked with and oversaw mechanics all of the time including electricians. some of the new young engineers would get mad at me esp when I would yell at them because for the third warning they kept breaking the plane of an open energized electrical control box with 440 and 115 with their hand. funny when one engineer complained to the boss about me yelling at him, the boss said good, he saved your life for the future doing something dumb like that and now you will remember. yes I know u care less about I just wrote).
yet many still disbelieved me, although the adding an extra spring or using needles with stronger springs threads to prevent hydro lock did eventually stop. maybe they did believe me?
u can see my post here and the picture.
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,93751.msg931886.html#msg931886

ps: the picture of your carbs shows the bowl vent hoses incorrectly installed which are a major cause of hydrolock.

God Bless

[rug_burn]

BTW: 
   What is 'colortune'?       
   Maybe I should try that in my tuning/synching efforts.     I gotta go through mine, replace the timing belts, adjust the valves, vacuum synch and then maybe attempt to 'synch' the mixtures... That last one is what takes time, with my bike.

[98valk]

BTW: 
   What is 'colortune'?       
   Maybe I should try that in my tuning/synching efforts.     I gotta go through mine, replace the timing belts, adjust the valves, vacuum synch and then maybe attempt to 'synch' the mixtures... That last one is what takes time, with my bike.

lets one see the actual combustion color

https://www.gunsonshop.com/contents/en-us/p209_G4074-G4171-G4172-Gunson-Colortune-See-Through-Spark-Plug-Kit.html

[Joe333x]

amazing.  colortune is good for idle and gets one in the ballpark for higher rpms. it seems u are stating u rev your engine to 6500 rpms unloaded and hold it there at that rpm to read the colortune? not healthy at all for an engine.  the engine needs a load to be an accurate tune. that's why racers use a dyno with a load to be in the ballpark. perfect real world tuning is done on the track with a load and ambient air conditions including the mass of air that has to be pushed. Mikuini states that a perfect carb tune with the correct main jet max power is only good for +/- 25F. wow, how do I know that?
here u can see some of the first hand experience I've done. lots of carb tuning since the heads pulled so hard I had to down size the jets and then figure out how to adjust the bowl fuel level when the floats are non-adjustable.
this is how one correctly tunes a carb.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html
I could write all day but u have your mind set up against me.
Jesus stated never to hate anyone, yet u hate me and think others do also. take a poll and find out.

you are like others, I proved that with a picture that the floats internal spring has nothing to do with the floats needle sealing in an over flow condition which prevents hydrolock. I even proved Moody a very good mechanic who builds turbo valkyries who was using an extra spring for the needle to close the float needle was wrong. it just doesn't work that way. basic carburetor float needle and seat design.(I've rebuilt motorcraft and holley carburetors decades ago). I know how they work including CV carbs. (I have plenty of hands on experience with vehicles and at a Marine industrial level, where I worked with and oversaw mechanics all of the time including electricians. some of the new young engineers would get mad at me esp when I would yell at them because for the third warning they kept breaking the plane of an open energized electrical control box with 440 and 115 with their hand. funny when one engineer complained to the boss about me yelling at him, the boss said good, he saved your life for the future doing something dumb like that and now you will remember. yes I know u care less about I just wrote).
yet many still disbelieved me, although the adding an extra spring or using needles with stronger springs threads to prevent hydro lock did eventually stop. maybe they did believe me?
u can see my post here and the picture.
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,93751.msg931886.html#msg931886

ps: the picture of your carbs shows the bowl vent hoses incorrectly installed which are a major cause of hydrolock.

God Bless

Nope definitely did not state that I bring the engine to 6500rpm at all. Simply said if you are burning blue at 3000rpm you are good to go. Using a colortune is way more than Honda ever told you to do, they just have you turn each screw a certain amount of turns, even if you just adjusted the screws to blue at idle with colortune its still better than the way in the service manual. Nothing is installed incorrectly on my carbs. Do listen to yourself? Racers tuning under load and perfect tuning on a track at certain temps? We are tuning a Honda Valkyrie not a race bike, calm down, my bike is tuned well past what Honda specifies in the manual, no need to go and tune it at a race track lol.

BTW:  
   What is 'colortune'?      
   Maybe I should try that in my tuning/synching efforts.     I gotta go through mine, replace the timing belts, adjust the valves, vacuum synch and then maybe attempt to 'synch' the mixtures... That last one is what takes time, with my bike.

Colortune is a sparkplug with a clear window that allows you to see the combustion. White is lean, orange is rich and blue is perfect. Its about as precise as you can get with carb tuning.

[98valk]

so there are four basic fuel circuits of a CV carb and you only tune two of them? 
 sounds great for less max HP and MPG.

[SCain]

Just got stranded on my way home from work today. Was cruising the freeway at 90 and all of a sudden throttle would not exceed 4000 rpm and the motor wanted to cut every time I pulled the clutch. Pulled over and tried starting it. It would fire and stumble with no choke but once I put the choke on it fired up and stayed running. Desperate to get home I got back on the freeway but only made it one exit before it did it again even worse. Bike started sputtering as if it was out of gas even though I filled up this morning and can still see liquid fuel in the tank. The second time it died I tried cranking it over again and the battery went dead within 10 seconds of cranking. Battery is from this spring. I did put a 6 inch led light bar on it but I almost never use it so I cannot see that having too much draw and killing the alternator. Got a buddy coming with a trailer to get me home and the next two days to get this solved. Any thoughts are appreciated

Something similar happened to me many years ago, I had filled up at a Gas Station that morning, riding home after work the bike started stumbling bad, turned out that I got a tank of bad gas. Something to consider.