Starting fresh

[Quince]

Got my 2000 Valkyrie 1500 acquisition home after 790 mile drive. 39k miles, no maintenance records, bike is running (engine - I still have plenty of snow on the ground). I need advice identifying suppliers. Plan to change air and oil filters, oil, final transmission oil, maybe brake and clutch fluids, timing belt and tensioners, spark plugs, maybe (don't know yet) brake pads....did I miss anything? What are good places to get all this from? Also, anybody has a Honda service manual that does not cost an arm and a leg? Thank you.

[WintrSol]

Check the date codes on the tires, and think about the brake lines. Originals are getting spongy about now, and stainless-wrapped Teflon are better, anyway.

Have you gotten the service manual? https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7v2ek5k4yjzz4cw2bmgs9/Valkyrie-GL1500.pdf?rlkey=47ylb91liia26r3xw2cjqyaxc&st=cc2s61nu&dl=0

[Chrisj CMA]

You need to remove the rear wheel final drive and driveshaft. Inspect re-grease and be sure to learn the specific assembly sequence for the rear end if you are doing it yourself.

[sandy]

Where are you that you have snow on the ground? Someone nearby might be able to help.

[Jess from VA]

Welcome Quince.

[Quince]

Where are you that you have snow on the ground? Someone nearby might be able to help.

I am in Solon Ohio, just south of Cleveland.
Except for led headlight that I assume was not available in 1999-2000, I don't see any modifications.
I ordered engine and final drive oil, air filter and spark plugs. Engine oil filter, I noticed some are regular and some have a riveted cap with a hex head on them so I wanted to ask details. As about rear wheel and final drive, I think it's too cold to attack now. Gee, a week ago we had -12F at night and probably oil won't even come out of the drive housing. I'll save that for my first ride, worm it up, drain it and based on how the oil looks like decide the next step. What is a good source for brake and clutch hydraulic lines? Thank you, everybody.

[Quince]

And thank you WinterSol for the .pdf manual.

[Chrisj CMA]

I made this slide show to help guys like you learn how to do it right

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

[Jess from VA]

Gee, a week ago we had -12F at night and probably oil won't even come out of the drive housing.

If it's cold (and been cold), and you're reluctant to run the engine to hot (because of crummy or unknown oil), a trick is to take one of those little 110 space heaters and put it under the engine aimed up a bit and warm it up so it will drain well.  It takes a while.

[fgtex]

Attending the excellent tech classes than Daniel M puts on at Inzane is a great reason for a new owner to attend. I did last year and learned a lot.

[Quince]

I made this slide show to help guys like you learn how to do it right

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

Thank you Chrisj. Power point is great. I wish you had a sketch of the wood adapter you use for lifting with dimensions. Hard to evaluate location of center of gravity with the rear wheel on and when both drive and wheel are off. I think I have the same lift 1500lb from Harbour Freight and I thought it's too flimsy for this bike.

[Quince]

Could I get more details or a link to this Inzane Daniel M course? I feel like a sponge ready to absorb all available knowledge. Could be the "Cabin fever" experienced by beekeepers and bikers for the same reason.

[Jess from VA]

I wish you had a sketch of the wood adapter you use for lifting with dimensions.

Here's (several versions of) your low tech lift adapter and dimensions.  Mine is old and chipped and greasy and still works like a charm.  (I did use all pressure treat)

The one-by baseboard will work better than two-by.  It's squeezed between the lift and the bike and doesn't need two-by strength, and it's easier to slide it in place and position it on top the jack and under the bike.

The way you avoid the bike tipping forward on the jack when the wheel/tire is dropped off the rear (which can quickly get exciting), is one good jack stand under a front engine guard.  

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

[Chrisj CMA]

I wish you had a sketch of the wood adapter you use for lifting with dimensions.

Here's (several versions of) your low tech lift adapter and dimensions.  Mine is old and chipped and greasy and still works like a charm.  (I did use all pressure treat)

The one-by baseboard will work better than two-by.  It's squeezed between the lift and the bike and doesn't need two-by strength, and it's easier to slide it in place and position it on top the jack and under the bike.

The way you avoid the bike tipping forward on the jack when the wheel/tire is dropped off the rear, is one good jack stand under a front engine guard.  

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Thanks Jess. Now I don’t have to find that link. My adapter is one of those pictures. The one resting on the back of the couch lol

[Jess from VA]

I haven't looked at that link in years Jeff.  And I remembered your pictures on it.  

The funnier part of them is not the adapter on the couch, it's the bike in the living room.  

I try to always do bike work in warm weather (out in my bike shed), but getting it in the house in the cold would be great. With only standard width doorways, I'd have to build a short ramp and hit the doorway at about 30 mph to blast it through the narrow opening.   

[DanB]

New to Valkyrie and the forum
Ill be 73 this month and just bought my first Valkyrie, (38th bike).  Just wanted to say hello and THANK the many outstanding contributors.

[WintrSol]

New to Valkyrie and the forum
Ill be 73 this month and just bought my first Valkyrie, (38th bike).  Just wanted to say hello and THANK the many outstanding contributors.

Welcome aboard, DanB. I bought my Valk when I was 65, 75 now. As long as the legs hold out, I'll ride it into the sunset.

[Timbo1]

New to Valkyrie and the forum
Ill be 73 this month and just bought my first Valkyrie, (38th bike).  Just wanted to say hello and THANK the many outstanding contributors.

Hello DanB,  welcome to the forum.  It is a great resource of information with many very knowledgeable folks willing to assist.  Perhaps our paths will cross.  What did you get? color / model?  I've seen a few for sale local in the past 6 months or so at reasonable prices.

[fgtex]

Could I get more details or a link to this Inzane Daniel M course? I feel like a sponge ready to absorb all available knowledge.

The classes take place at the annual Valkyrie Riders get together called Inzane.
 
https://valkyrieriders.com/Inzane/

On the left side of the page linked above you will see a button called Schedule of Events. That will show the classes.

[Quince]

New to Valkyrie and the forum
Ill be 73 this month and just bought my first Valkyrie, (38th bike).  Just wanted to say hello and THANK the many outstanding contributors.

And I thought I am the oldest, 72 this year. Thank you for proving I am not out of...order.

[Quince]

Anybody can explain the Shifter Buddy I see being used/installed on 1500's? The machines I designed are on 4 continents but I do not see this Shifter Buddy fixing what it appears to be a week mechanical design. Did anybody had issues that required a Shifter Buddy installation?

[Chrisj CMA]

Anybody can explain the Shifter Buddy I see being used/installed on 1500's? The machines I designed are on 4 continents but I do not see this Shifter Buddy fixing what it appears to be a week mechanical design. Did anybody had issues that required a Shifter Buddy installation?

I agree with you on some of the copy cat units. This one bolts securely to the crash bar mount. It makes shifting sure and crisp especially neutral. Supposed to reduce stress on the shift seal

[Quince]

Anybody can explain the Shifter Buddy I see being used/installed on 1500's? The machines I designed are on 4 continents but I do not see this Shifter Buddy fixing what it appears to be a week mechanical design. Did anybody had issues that required a Shifter Buddy installation?

I agree with you on some of the copy cat units. This one bolts securely to the crash bar mount. It makes shifting sure and crisp especially neutral. Supposed to reduce stress on the shift seal

This makes mechanical sense. The one I've seen, two pieces and a pin are an aberration. Who is selling the one in your picture?

[Chrisj CMA]

Who is selling the one in your picture?

These were designed and sold by a member here. They aren’t available new anymore but every once in a while one is available on the classifieds

[Jess from VA]

I think I have one.  You can have it if I do.  Remind me if I forget to look.

This is not a negative on the unit. I only run heel toe shifters, and didn't know I would have to cut one up to install the shifter buddy, and I won't do that. 

[Cracker Jack]

I have a new one never installed because it will not fit my Interstate. Only fits a Standard or Tourer. Paid $75.00 for it. Will sell for $50.00 shipped. PM me if interested.

Cracker,

EDIT:

I've had it for a good while. Maybe my problem was the heel/toe shifter. Don't remember for sure. In any case, it wouldn't fit my Interstate with a heel/toe shifter.

[Pluggy]

I wish you had a sketch of the wood adapter you use for lifting with dimensions.

Here's (several versions of) your low tech lift adapter and dimensions.  Mine is old and chipped and greasy and still works like a charm.  (I did use all pressure treat)

The one-by baseboard will work better than two-by.  It's squeezed between the lift and the bike and doesn't need two-by strength, and it's easier to slide it in place and position it on top the jack and under the bike.

The way you avoid the bike tipping forward on the jack when the wheel/tire is dropped off the rear (which can quickly get exciting), is one good jack stand under a front engine guard.  

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Jess, we know a weak point is the stud bolt that holds the sidestand spring.  Using a pair of 2x4's for the base of the adapter allows the "left arm" of my Craftsman jack to pass under that stud.  If I had made the adapter with 1" lumber, the jack probably would have run into the stud and broken it. 

[Jess from VA]

I wish you had a sketch of the wood adapter you use for lifting with dimensions.

Here's (several versions of) your low tech lift adapter and dimensions.  Mine is old and chipped and greasy and still works like a charm.  (I did use all pressure treat)

The one-by baseboard will work better than two-by.  It's squeezed between the lift and the bike and doesn't need two-by strength, and it's easier to slide it in place and position it on top the jack and under the bike.

The way you avoid the bike tipping forward on the jack when the wheel/tire is dropped off the rear (which can quickly get exciting), is one good jack stand under a front engine guard.  

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Jess, we know a weak point is the stud bolt that holds the sidestand spring.  Using a pair of 2x4's for the base of the adapter allows the "left arm" of my Craftsman jack to pass under that stud.  If I had made the adapter with 1" lumber, the jack probably would have run into the stud and broken it. 

Well many years of use on mine with 2 Interstates never did that.  (And one of those studs and a spring is always carried in the on-board tools)

But I always lay down on my side, with eyeballs on the work, and slowly work the lift foot pump by hand and use the other to wiggle the adapter into just the right position as it comes up (paying close attention to the deployed kickstand) for perfect lineup, before getting up and pumping it to elevation with my foot.   Otherwise, the stud could have gotten damaged.

[Pluggy]

I wish you had a sketch of the wood adapter you use for lifting with dimensions.

Here's (several versions of) your low tech lift adapter and dimensions.  Mine is old and chipped and greasy and still works like a charm.  (I did use all pressure treat)

The one-by baseboard will work better than two-by.  It's squeezed between the lift and the bike and doesn't need two-by strength, and it's easier to slide it in place and position it on top the jack and under the bike.

The way you avoid the bike tipping forward on the jack when the wheel/tire is dropped off the rear (which can quickly get exciting), is one good jack stand under a front engine guard.  

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Jess, we know a weak point is the stud bolt that holds the sidestand spring.  Using a pair of 2x4's for the base of the adapter allows the "left arm" of my Craftsman jack to pass under that stud.  If I had made the adapter with 1" lumber, the jack probably would have run into the stud and broken it. 

Well many years of use on mine with 2 Interstates never did that.  (And one of those studs and a spring is always carried in the on-board tools)

But I always lay down on my side, with eyeballs on the work, and slowly work the lift foot pump by hand and use the other to wiggle the adapter into just the right position as it comes up (paying close attention to the deployed kickstand) for perfect lineup, before getting up and pumping it to elevation with my foot.   Otherwise, the stud could have gotten damaged.

I made two short bungee straps.  One goes over the oil filter and hooks to screws on the adapter's front.  The other goes around the frame crossmember and hooks to the adapter rear.  I have to get on the floor to attach these things.  With the adapter strapped to the bike, I can stand and pump the jack while tilting the bike vertical.  Once up, a jackstand slips under each engine guard. 

[WintrSol]

I have a steel lift adapter made by a member here, that accommodates my belly tank, and attaches permanently. I believe it's less than 1", but my HF lift barely fits under. So, I put a board under the side stand to right the bike enough to fit it easily, watching the stand's bolt. At 75, it's getting harder to roll around on the cold concrete, so the extra room helps.

[Jess from VA]

There are various ways to lift the bike on the jack, given each guy's particular lift and adapter and other variables.

As long as it's done without mishap it's all good.

The double marine grade 3/4" plywood floor in the bike shed is perfectly flat, but it's crowded and dark(er) in there, and just outside on my good concrete driveway (poured to the door) where I prefer to work, it's gently sloped and I have to deal with that too.

[Chrisj CMA]

There are various ways to lift the bike on the jack, given each guy's particular lift and adapter and other variables.

As long as it's done without mishap it's all good.

The double marine grade 3/4" plywood floor in the bike shed is perfectly flat, but it's crowded and dark(er) in there, and just outside on my good concrete driveway (poured to the door) where I prefer to work, it's gently sloped and I have to deal with that too.

The concrete floor in the family room is gently sloped, I don't even think about it anymore.  its not enough to change how the lift balances the bike.

[Jess from VA]

There are various ways to lift the bike on the jack, given each guy's particular lift and adapter and other variables.

As long as it's done without mishap it's all good.

The double marine grade 3/4" plywood floor in the bike shed is perfectly flat, but it's crowded and dark(er) in there, and just outside on my good concrete driveway (poured to the door) where I prefer to work, it's gently sloped and I have to deal with that too.

The concrete floor in the family room is gently sloped, I don't even think about it anymore.  its not enough to change how the lift balances the bike.

Same with my driveway Jeff, though the natural way I set up, the lift wheels are always crosswise to the slope.

The other way, I did have the jack start creeping a bit when pulling hard on wrenches once or twice.

Course there's no carpet on my driveway.  (though I keep two carpet remnants out in the shed, to lay down each side of the bike to cushion the old body while working)


One other thing we haven't talked about, is to keep all tools under or on the bike when working on a lifted bike.  Stepping on a screwdriver can have you slipping and falling into the bike while up on the lift with calamitous results.  

Happened to me just once, and while nothing bad happened, I learned my lesson.

[Chrisj CMA]

Jess. I don’t worry about stepping on tools I put cardboard down to protect the floor. All tools stay on the cardboard and I don’t step on cardboard. Stepping in grease would spread it inside the house. I usually work barefoot and I hate grease between my toes. lol

[Jess from VA]

It occurs to me, you probably don't work indoors to avoid the cold, but rather the FL heat and sun (even the Panhandle).

I bought one of those portable folding frame sunshades that permanently sits right in front of my bike shed.  With skin cancer cut off my face, head, neck, arm and back over the years, the sun is not my friend.  After high winds blew the damn thing clear across the back yard, it's now anchored with screws and the base of an old concrete birdbath (no bags for sand came with mine).

Mine doesn't look this good with weather, birds and sun (and every 10 years or so, I have to get a new cover), but it gives me shade.  And I center up the lift underneath it.

 

[Quince]

Could I get more details or a link to this Inzane Daniel M course? I feel like a sponge ready to absorb all available knowledge.

The classes take place at the annual Valkyrie Riders get together called Inzane.
 
https://valkyrieriders.com/Inzane/

On the left side of the page linked above you will see a button called Schedule of Events. That will show the classes.

Tank you. Looks like is no update yet for 2025. I'll check on a regular base.

[Quince]

Check the date codes on the tires, and think about the brake lines. Originals are getting spongy about now, and stainless-wrapped Teflon are better, anyway.

Have you gotten the service manual? https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7v2ek5k4yjzz4cw2bmgs9/Valkyrie-GL1500.pdf?rlkey=47ylb91liia26r3xw2cjqyaxc&st=cc2s61nu&dl=0

Tires manufactured sec half of 2017, about 5-6k miles on them. Gives me time to learn how to take wheels off.

[Quince]

I made this slide show to help guys like you learn how to do it right

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

Chris, do I understand right that by removing the rear shocks and jacking up the swing-arm/wheel into the rear fender the axle will raise above the exhaust? If that is correct, do you by any-chance have a dimension for holes diameter and center to center distance of the holes in the "solid short bar"?

[Chrisj CMA]

the one in the slide show is 10" center to center.  I feel like it would be better a little longer  I think 10.5 would be good

[Quince]

the one in the slide show is 10" center to center.  I feel like it would be better a little longer  I think 10.5 would be good

Thank you !