Location/Temperature induced issues

[Quince]

So I picked up the 2000 Valkyrie 1500 in VA at 48F. Started up and drove it on the trailer. Got home and rolled the bike off the trailer into the garage at about 30F with zero issues. One week later and temps in lower 20's I can hardly move the bike. Pulling back, the front lifts up and I had to jerk it 10 times to move back 6-7 ft to make room in case I need to hang a deer. I am 220 lb and the bike IS IN NEUTRAL. This never happened to my 2003 ZZR1200. So I am asking for advice: what should I look at first or in what sequence and since on the subject, what would be the best brake pads? I expect I'll have to get a new set and flush. I saw somewhere here that DOT4 LV is a better brake fluid. What about pads? Thank you.

[Jess from VA]

The number one thing leading to difficulty rolling the bike is old, low pressure tires.

You didn't hear brakes dragging did you?

You want only Honda OEM pads.

Dot 4 is great. 

[Quince]

I did hear brakes dragging when I jerked it first only. Humidity freezing between pads and disk? Had freezing rain, I can skate in my trailer, 1/4" of ice. Bike is in the garage so.

[da prez]

  As Jess said. B A S I C S. Tire pressure and check date codes. Pick up front end and see if wheel spins. Then do rear. If bike has been sitting , I would suggest a thorough inspection and service. Take no chances. When the bike is properly serviced , you will need a wide load permit for the grin.

                                             da prez

[Jess from VA]

Even if the pads are worn (not shot), I have always found that that a hot water wash and hard scrubbing with a mild corrosive spray and stiff bristle brushes (and a long skinny bottle brush) of every bit of the brakes, wheels and rotors you can reach on the bike, then good rinse and gas blower dry, gives me an instant new and very noticeable 'brake job' from the seat.  Use eye protection (and polycarb eyeglasses don't like corrosives at all).  And my rotors are all worn (cupped), but don't need replaced yet.  

I keep my bikes pretty clean all the time, but when I do a thorough wash (wax) up on the lift (so there's not so much crawling around to do, and the wheels can be spun), I always finish with this brake scrub detail, before blowing the bike off (then a wipe down).  I use S100, but all auto parts corrosive wheel cleaner sprays should work.

[pancho]

The pistons are probably hanging up in the front caliper. over the years the dust builds up and causes problems that the brakes will not retract after releasing grip. It is worse when cold, never figured out why.  If you remove calipers one at a time and push pistons out MOST of the way out, they can be cleaned and get you by for awhile. The correct fix is to push pistons out and clean or replace, clean bores and replace seals,, refill and bleed system.

[Hook#3287]

"It is worse when cold, never figured out why."

Contraction, we've all experienced it.

My guess would be the seals in the caliper contract just slightly to not allow the cylinders to move freely.

[pancho]

My guess would be the seals in the caliper contract just slightly to not allow the cylinders to move freely.

Maybe... I've wondered if the lip on worn rotors can catch the edge of the pads when the pistons don't retract fully, as the rotors will decrease in size slightly as they get colder. I don't think I've noticed any symptoms of it since I put new rotors on the bike, or had to clean the calipers, and I sometimes ride in the cold...?


Contraction, we've all experienced it. Speak for yourself!

[Peteg]

You might just jack the bike up and see if its front or rear. My calipers retract really well so I a can just grab them and tell they're disengaged - they float. If all 3 calipers are floating nicely look at the drive train. Once you jack it up things should get more obvious.

[98valk]

Even if the pads are worn (not shot), I have always found that that a hot water wash and hard scrubbing with a mild corrosive spray and stiff bristle brushes (and a long skinny bottle brush) of every bit of the brakes, wheels and rotors you can reach on the bike, then good rinse and gas blower dry, gives me an instant new and very noticeable 'brake job' from the seat.  Use eye protection (and polycarb eyeglasses don't like corrosives at all).  And my rotors are all worn (cupped), but don't need replaced yet.  

I keep my bikes pretty clean all the time, but when I do a thorough wash (wax) up on the lift (so there's not so much crawling around to do, and the wheels can be spun), I always finish with this brake scrub detail, before blowing the bike off (then a wipe down).  I use S100, but all auto parts corrosive wheel cleaner sprays should work.

Jess, I use spray nine,
 https://www.spraynine.com/products/degreasers/spray-nine-heavy-duty-cleaner-1gal/

smells just like S100, It works better and is much much lower cost.

First time I used S100 the smell hit me and I said, I know that smell, where do I know that from?, and then it hit me same as spray nine. went to the storage locker and there was a half filled bottle there. It is definitely the same cleaner. check it out, I've been using the spray nine for over a decade. Still use the S100 bottle filled with spray nine.

[Jess from VA]

I keep a half dozen bottles of spray nine all over the house and sheds (for years).

I didn't know it was the same stuff.

I'll do my own test next brake clean time. 

[98valk]

I keep a half dozen bottles of spray nine all over the house and sheds (for years).

I didn't know it was the same stuff.

I'll do my own test next brake clean time. 

that will be a good comparison test to see the results. please post the results.

 

[Jess from VA]

I keep a half dozen bottles of spray nine all over the house and sheds (for years).

I didn't know it was the same stuff.

I'll do my own test next brake clean time.  

that will be a good comparison test to see the results. please post the results.

 

Sure if I remember.  I won't do a jack assist scrub and cleaning until this winter crap is all gone.

My gut feeling is if S100 and Spray9 are indeed the same stuff, the S100 is probably a bit higher concentration or corrosive.  The only reason for this thought is that in scrubbing my bike brakes barehanded before, little nicks/cuts in my fingers really burned (leading to full time nitriles), but using Spray9 bare handed all the time, I remember no such burning.

Not exactly scientific.  But neither is a smell test.   

[Quince]

Finished the lift adapter. Front wheel locked up. Took apart right front caliper, came out easy, clean all components, lubricated... put back all parts together torque back in place. Left side locked up, had to pry it out. Dirty and some funny fiber and like other build up around one of the pistons but it all cleaned up nicely and went back in smooth, lubricated, anti-seize threads put back together, pumped brakes to push all pistons out, lift up front wheel and it's dragging; looks like I also have a tighter spot on about 90 degree of revolution. I do have a dial indicator but can't find my magnetic base so I ordered one to see run-out. I'll find it after I have two. Manual said .012" or .3 mm. I should have done this with the front wheel up in the air and spin it after I did first caliper but that's part of progress through stupidity. The brake pads are OK for wear, noisy EBC sintered but disks, base on what I was told here are original since they have oval holes. Disks are also .02" over manual minimum. I also order new pads. Do you need to ride the bike some 50 yards or so for the brakes to adjust? Before I get the magnetic base I'll get the two mounting bolts out a bit and wiggle calipers to see if I get rid of the drag and I plan to get new brake fluid in the system. Any advice on the subject will be appreciated.

[Valker]

Check that the axle is completely flush with the fork leg.

[Quince]

Same left caliper locked. Had to pry it out again. One piston comes out first, the other too once I block the first and both go back in under C-clamp. Question is, should I get new fluid in now or should I take that caliper apart first, see if with no hydraulic back pressure piston goes back in by hand? The other caliper is good, wheel spins freely.

[pancho]

I think I would go ahead and push the pistons out at this point and inspect.  I don't think spending time changing the fluid at this point is going to fix your problem.

[Quince]

I fixed front brakes and got new fluid, work like a charm...still on the lift. Congratulate myself for pumping the rear a few times just to find out wheel is locked. Clean everything out and works beautiful again but: the Caliper Pin Bolt, the one with a 12 mm hex was rusted bad; cleaned with wire wheel and it's so pitted it looks like it came out of an Egypt pyramids artifacts museum. It will work for now since the rubber boot is full with lubricating grease but the memory of it will depress me every time I see it. This brings me to the next brain pop-up window: "Is There A Kit?", pins boots and maybe springs for rear and front calipers, and if so, where? Rubber while OK, didn't present any freshness (neither do I at 3 times the age) so I may as well replace them. Springs and all other pins and pistons are good. Any supplier lists available?

[Pluggy]

I have not seen a list of brake suppliers, but there are quite a few.  Valkyrie brake parts are easy to get as they are also used on other Hondas.  Kits are available, but may not have the exact combination of parts you want.  An example:

https://brakecrafters.com/collections/2001-honda-valkyrie-1500-gl1500cf-interstate

You will also find individual parts available from suppliers like this:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2003/gl1500cd-a-valkyrie/front-brake-caliper

[Quince]

I have not seen a list of brake suppliers, but there are quite a few.  Valkyrie brake parts are easy to get as they are also used on other Hondas.  Kits are available, but may not have the exact combination of parts you want.  An example:

https://brakecrafters.com/collections/2001-honda-valkyrie-1500-gl1500cf-interstate

You will also find individual parts available from suppliers like this:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2003/gl1500cd-a-valkyrie/front-brake-caliper

Thank you Pluggy. I have parts on order with Partzilla.

[Jess from VA]

Temperature induced issues

Speaking of temperature induced issues, please refresh my recollection guys (I know it's been talked about here before many times).

One of my bikes has dripped a bit of coolant/water on start up (in this cold weather) twice, never happened before.  Not much (third/quarter cup?), and quits entirely after warm up and riding (got off and looked 4 times riding yesterday, and nothing, bone dry).  I wish I could say the same thing for my old man prostate, I had to pee once going out, and three times coming back, and I drank nothing on that 3hr ride.

Before leaving, I got down there and tried to tighten the lower radiator hose clamp, but that thing was tight as hell and would not go one bit tighter.  Little wet down underneath there, but I can see no leak point.

I checked the coolant reservoir and only needed to add a cup and a half to top up.  It looks like maybe the water pump drain plug washer may be very slow dripping, I snugged it one MM (and no more).  The water pump housing seems tight and leak free.

What else should I be doing?

[Hook#3287]

Temperature induced issues

Speaking of temperature induced issues, please refresh my recollection guys (I know it's been talked about here before many times).

One of my bikes has dripped a bit of coolant/water on start up (in this cold weather) twice, never happened before.  Not much (third/quarter cup?), and quits entirely after warm up and riding (got off and looked 4 times riding yesterday, and nothing, bone dry).  I wish I could say the same thing for my old man prostate, I had to pee once going out, and three times coming back, and I drank nothing on that 3hr ride.

Before leaving, I got down there and tried to tighten the lower radiator hose clamp, but that thing was tight as hell and would not go one bit tighter.  Little wet down underneath there, but I can see no leak point.

I checked the coolant reservoir and only needed to add a cup and a half to top up.  It looks like maybe the water pump drain plug washer may be very slow dripping, I snugged it one MM (and no more).  The water pump housing seems tight and leak free.

What else should I be doing?

I'd try ignoring it till it's an issue.  I doubt it will be.

[Jess from VA]

Temperature induced issues

Speaking of temperature induced issues, please refresh my recollection guys (I know it's been talked about here before many times).

One of my bikes has dripped a bit of coolant/water on start up (in this cold weather) twice, never happened before.  Not much (third/quarter cup?), and quits entirely after warm up and riding (got off and looked 4 times riding yesterday, and nothing, bone dry).  I wish I could say the same thing for my old man prostate, I had to pee once going out, and three times coming back, and I drank nothing on that 3hr ride.

Before leaving, I got down there and tried to tighten the lower radiator hose clamp, but that thing was tight as hell and would not go one bit tighter.  Little wet down underneath there, but I can see no leak point.

I checked the coolant reservoir and only needed to add a cup and a half to top up.  It looks like maybe the water pump drain plug washer may be very slow dripping, I snugged it one MM (and no more).  The water pump housing seems tight and leak free.

What else should I be doing?

I'd try ignoring it till it's an issue.  I doubt it will be.

Thanks Bill.  Ignoring things is probably my best mechanical ability.   

I'm hoping as things warm up (with less temp swings) and I ride more often, this will stop happening.   

[h13man]

Seeing brakes are being done at this garage also, Rural King farm store sells Lucas Synthetic DOT 4 for $9 a qt.

Going to get her on the lift today and do me some replacing all brake lines and maintenance and overall deep clean. My niece expressed interest in purchasing the bike to point of saying "Don't sell it." so the saga begins. I have 71' CL100 to get cleaned up to sell also. I sure love it but out of 11 Gkid's nobody once expressed the desire to want to ride it over the years.

[old2soon]

   Jess check both hose clamps on that radiator hose. For some reason some of those clamps Will loosen up some just cuz they can.  You Might git 1/8 maybe a 1/4 turn But that just may correct that little leak. RIDE SAFE.