Acv clamp

[GL15Brewer]

Curious, before I put this carb bank back together, if anyone has ever felt it necessary to put some kind of clamp on the hose from the acv? It seems loose at the acv itself.
Thanks

[Mooskee]

You should replace the ACV hoses, and the new hose is tight. You buy it in bulk. If you only need enough for the ACVs, you can buy ithe precut hoses and new screws as a kit on my website.

[GL15Brewer]

Darn, i just ordered a bunch between you and redeye. LolWhat size tubing should I purchase? I'll see if I can snag it local since I have everything else to get the bike finished this weekend?

[GL15Brewer]

Also wondering if anyone puts any sort of anti-seize or an assembly lube on the rods holding the carbs together. Those were not fun to get out.

[Mooskee]

3.5mm ID
95005-35008-10M is the Honda part number. The -10M is 10 meters length. You can find it in shorter lengths using the number minus the -10M.
The OEM tubing is nitrile I think.

On the connecting rods galvanic corrosion can make them difficult to get apart. The bodies are an alloy, the inserts are steel and the rods are chromed. That causes an EMF which corrodes the metal. So I polish the rods and grease them on assembly. Neversieze would work great, but it seems to get everywhere. I only use it to lubricate the idle adjust knob threads and contact point.

If you have other questions or concerns, I will do what I can to help.

[GL15Brewer]

Thanks David! Got it the rest of the way put together last weekend and started it up drove it for a bit and tuned it yesterday. It feels so much better now. Just need to check valve clearance, oil chance, and fork seals and I'm in the clear. Appreciate yr help and yr shop. Makes keeping this beautiful bike running so much easier.

[Avanti]

If I am checking valve clearance, I due it before tuning.

[98valk]

3.5mm ID
95005-35008-10M is the Honda part number. The -10M is 10 meters length. You can find it in shorter lengths using the number minus the -10M.
The OEM tubing is nitrile I think.

On the connecting rods galvanic corrosion can make them difficult to get apart. The bodies are an alloy, the inserts are steel and the rods are chromed. That causes an EMF which corrodes the metal. So I polish the rods and grease them on assembly. Neversieze would work great, but it seems to get everywhere. I only use it to lubricate the idle adjust knob threads and contact point.

If you have other questions or concerns, I will do what I can to help.

""That causes an EMF which corrodes the metal"" 
 This is completely Wrong!
 EMF corrosion only applies when an electrical current is running thru the metals. there isn't an electrical current running thru the carbs!

the metals involved would be strictly galvanic corrosion, however the metals on the carbs, ones you mentioned are not causing any galvanic corrosion those metals are all only a couples steps away from each other on the galvanic corrosion charts.
 Honda engineers and any engineer knows about galvanic corrosion and wouldn't put dissimilar metals together esp a motorcycle that can be in all weather conditions.

Its just the aluminum corroding all by itself which isn't normal except when certain instances happen.

""Aluminum is the perfect choice for many conditions. The oxide layer on its surface remains unaffected in a wide pH range of 4.0 to 8.5. Additionally, the layer can repair itself, which allows aluminum structures to continue to function even if they are exposed to harsh environments for short periods of time. (Further reading: A Look at Self-Healing Metal Oxides as a Corrosion Prevention Method.)

There are, however, some instances where aluminum is susceptible to corrosion if left untreated; these include:

    Extreme acidic/alkaline conditions (pH below 4 and above 9)
    Constant exposure to humidity
    Unventilated and enclosed indoor spaces
    Marine environments""

https://www.corrosionpedia.com/aluminum-corrosion-5-incredible-facts-you-must-know/2/7170

"The OEM tubing is nitrile I think."

Honda uses as do most manufacturers use Buna-N aka Nitrile. there are 5 grades of buna-n last time I checked, I'm sure Honda used one of the higher grades, after reading each grade.

[Mooskee]

3.5mm ID
95005-35008-10M is the Honda part number. The -10M is 10 meters length. You can find it in shorter lengths using the number minus the -10M.
The OEM tubing is nitrile I think.

On the connecting rods galvanic corrosion can make them difficult to get apart. The bodies are an alloy, the inserts are steel and the rods are chromed. That causes an EMF which corrodes the metal. So I polish the rods and grease them on assembly. Neversieze would work great, but it seems to get everywhere. I only use it to lubricate the idle adjust knob threads and contact point.

If you have other questions or concerns, I will do what I can to help.

""That causes an EMF which corrodes the metal"" 
 This is completely Wrong!
 EMF corrosion only applies when an electrical current is running thru the metals. there isn't an electrical current running thru the carbs!

the metals involved would be strictly galvanic corrosion, however the metals on the carbs, ones you mentioned are not causing any galvanic corrosion those metals are all only a couples steps away from each other on the galvanic corrosion charts.
 Honda engineers and any engineer knows about galvanic corrosion and wouldn't put dissimilar metals together esp a motorcycle that can be in all weather conditions.

Its just the aluminum corroding all by itself which isn't normal except when certain instances happen.

""Aluminum is the perfect choice for many conditions. The oxide layer on its surface remains unaffected in a wide pH range of 4.0 to 8.5. Additionally, the layer can repair itself, which allows aluminum structures to continue to function even if they are exposed to harsh environments for short periods of time. (Further reading: A Look at Self-Healing Metal Oxides as a Corrosion Prevention Method.)

There are, however, some instances where aluminum is susceptible to corrosion if left untreated; these include:

    Extreme acidic/alkaline conditions (pH below 4 and above 9)
    Constant exposure to humidity
    Unventilated and enclosed indoor spaces
    Marine environments""

https://www.corrosionpedia.com/aluminum-corrosion-5-incredible-facts-you-must-know/2/7170

"The OEM tubing is nitrile I think."

Honda uses as do most manufacturers use Buna-N aka Nitrile. there are 5 grades of buna-n last time I checked, I'm sure Honda used one of the higher grades, after reading each grade.

WELL EXCUSE ME for trying to help. I. Stand corrected, and have learned my lesson. Which is if I reply, even in a helpful way, I will get blasted by some sanctimonious jerk. This is why I try not to comment on Fakebook. It is fully of rude people who can't say anything without it being condescending. This forum has gone downhill straight towards hell.

[Jess from VA]

Please don't throw out the baby with the bathwater Mooskie.

You clearly have good skills and knowledge and I am glad you are a contributing member.

I learn something from every one of your posts, so keep them coming please. 

[Avanti]

One thing I learned in engineering from my instructor that I always remember, it always looks good on paper but it is only right when it works in the real world. So I tend to go with the person with the most knowledge by experience and not the guy with the book.

[98valk]

One thing I learned in engineering from my instructor that I always remember, it always looks good on paper but it is only right when it works in the real world. So I tend to go with the person with the most knowledge by experience and not the guy with the book.

well I have book training and real world experience from working in the ship salt water industry for decades. There are even instructions out there on how to correctly size zinc anodes.

[98valk]

3.5mm ID
95005-35008-10M is the Honda part number. The -10M is 10 meters length. You can find it in shorter lengths using the number minus the -10M.
The OEM tubing is nitrile I think.

On the connecting rods galvanic corrosion can make them difficult to get apart. The bodies are an alloy, the inserts are steel and the rods are chromed. That causes an EMF which corrodes the metal. So I polish the rods and grease them on assembly. Neversieze would work great, but it seems to get everywhere. I only use it to lubricate the idle adjust knob threads and contact point.

If you have other questions or concerns, I will do what I can to help.

""That causes an EMF which corrodes the metal""  
 This is completely Wrong!
 EMF corrosion only applies when an electrical current is running thru the metals. there isn't an electrical current running thru the carbs!

the metals involved would be strictly galvanic corrosion, however the metals on the carbs, ones you mentioned are not causing any galvanic corrosion those metals are all only a couples steps away from each other on the galvanic corrosion charts.
 Honda engineers and any engineer knows about galvanic corrosion and wouldn't put dissimilar metals together esp a motorcycle that can be in all weather conditions.

Its just the aluminum corroding all by itself which isn't normal except when certain instances happen.

""Aluminum is the perfect choice for many conditions. The oxide layer on its surface remains unaffected in a wide pH range of 4.0 to 8.5. Additionally, the layer can repair itself, which allows aluminum structures to continue to function even if they are exposed to harsh environments for short periods of time. (Further reading: A Look at Self-Healing Metal Oxides as a Corrosion Prevention Method.)

There are, however, some instances where aluminum is susceptible to corrosion if left untreated; these include:

    Extreme acidic/alkaline conditions (pH below 4 and above 9)
    Constant exposure to humidity
    Unventilated and enclosed indoor spaces
    Marine environments""

https://www.corrosionpedia.com/aluminum-corrosion-5-incredible-facts-you-must-know/2/7170

"The OEM tubing is nitrile I think."

Honda uses as do most manufacturers use Buna-N aka Nitrile. there are 5 grades of buna-n last time I checked, I'm sure Honda used one of the higher grades, after reading each grade.

WELL EXCUSE ME for trying to help. I. Stand corrected, and have learned my lesson. Which is if I reply, even in a helpful way, I will get blasted by some sanctimonious jerk. This is why I try not to comment on Fakebook. It is fully of rude people who can't say anything without it being condescending. This forum has gone downhill straight towards hell.

Dude whats with the name calling?  trying to be helpful with incorrect information is not helpful.  
In my opinion when it comes to corrosion and longevity of our Valkyries correct information is required esp., when it comes to parts that are now no longer readily available.

[Oss]

We have heard the expression measure twice cut once

The same can be said about replies on boards

"I don't agree with xyz because of the following......"

is perhaps less inflammatory than the original response

We are a shrinking group, lets try to keep it together as imho all of youse have good
intentions and have more bike knowledge than I ever will

Oss

yeah I cut twice and measure once incorrectly

[Jess from VA]

I don't agree with xyz because of the following......"

is perhaps less inflammatory than the original response

OR 'I think you may be mistaken because......'

You can disagree, and still be nice and polite about it.