5 suggestions for customization

[Squatch71]

I have owned my valkyrie now almost a year and i've popped in from time to time asking questions and I was just wondering. if you could do it all over again, what would be the first five things that you would do to update or customize your valkyrie? For reference, I have a 1999 interstate.

[98valk]

depends if u want, engine performance, visual looks, handling, and/or reducing maintenance.

maybe one of the first things to do of all.  https://evanscoolant.com/

brought my leftover '98 new in '00.  installed evans in '01, its still in there.

[-mike-]

I'd first adressing the only two things Honda did not so well :

Improve shifting by Shifter Buddy installation (get it there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/474127493287210/) Get a new shaft seal, too.

Add progressive springs for front fork for a much better ride and it will stop bottoming out.

The rest is just a matter of taste and personal preferences.

The waterless coolant isn't really top prio, just a gimmick for lazy people.
25% less cooling capability, so quite the contrary to beneficial if your cooler isn't in top shape and has a lot of folded fins in the cooler.

-mike-

[Hook#3287]

Slow jets to 38's
Interstate carb springs
Handle bar risers
Blinker buzzer or light upgrade
Swap out OEM seat.

[Jess from VA]

Heel-toe shifter (and I like mine with Cobra floorboards instead of pegs).

Clearview windshield (5" wider than stock, not taller, but depends on your height).

Stick a Standard/Tourer taillight in the Interstate rear fender knockout for a good increase in rear lighting over those little trunk lights (taillight fixture, lens, and a short piece of OE wiring harness to plug and play).

205 60 Michelin Cross Climate II rear tire (for a tremendous increase in traction, braking and longevity, with almost no car tire effect on handling).

And a better seat (Ultimate Lowboy, one-inch under stock seat height, or Bigboy, one inch over stock) (and if you do this, it can effect how tall you want a new windshield, which ideally puts your eyes at the top of the shield).  

Unless you've recently changed them, 2 new 55/60 halogen headlight bulbs.  I absolutely hate changing those bulbs (and the engineers who designed them), but waiting for them to burn out is a mistake, they get dim over time but may not burn out for years.  I wanted to go to LEDs for lower power draw, but the issues of fan or fanless, cheap drivers, RF interference with the radio, and whether my choice would even fit up in there, made me give up on them.    

[98valk]

The waterless coolant isn't really top prio, just a gimmick for lazy people.
25% less cooling capability, so quite the contrary to beneficial if your cooler isn't in top shape and has a lot of folded fins in the cooler.

-mike-

not true at all. where are u getting your info?

[98valk]

Slow jets to 38's
Interstate carb springs
Handle bar risers
Blinker buzzer or light upgrade
Swap out OEM seat.

zero reason for 38 pilot jets vs the OEM 35s unless u like less MPG.  a stock engine has zero need for 38s

[Jess from VA]

A new Valkyrie was ideal for a rider 6 feet tall weighing 200 pounds. 

I don't think I've heard that before, but think it's spot on. 

At 5'9" 175/now 155, I had to do some changes.  Good upper body strength helps too.

The 12.5" shocks on one of my bikes is so much better for my short legs than the OE 13's.  You would't think so.  I do fine on the other with 13s, but.... 

[-mike-]

The waterless coolant isn't really top prio, just a gimmick for lazy people.
25% less cooling capability, so quite the contrary to beneficial if your cooler isn't in top shape and has a lot of folded fins in the cooler.

-mike-

not true at all. where are u getting your info?

That's what in this case a seller won't tell you freely, hmm?

Let's look at the data sheets....
Thermal conductivity at 100° C
Evans: 0.27  W/m·K. (from their own web page)
Water: 0.677 W/m·K.
Water/glycole 50/50: 0.41 W/m·K

Means Evans has only 65.85% thermal conductivity compared to regular cooling fluid.

Read carefully the manufacturers texts...
They do know because they emphasize Evans having better performance at the both extreme conditions.
That is: compared to (over)boiling water and frozen coolant. Which is obviously not a miracle.... Lol.

Not a single word for the regular temperature window a motor usually runs.

There are some other facts that make Evans not as good for a motor system designed for water based coolant mixtures. I hope you won't find out the hard way. You most probably won't, just because Honda made their homework and built an excellent motor that is damn near bullet proof.

[98valk]

The waterless coolant isn't really top prio, just a gimmick for lazy people.
25% less cooling capability, so quite the contrary to beneficial if your cooler isn't in top shape and has a lot of folded fins in the cooler.

-mike-

not true at all. where are u getting your info?

That's what in this case a seller won't tell you freely, hmm?

Let's look at the data sheets....
Thermal conductivity at 100° C
Evans: 0.27  W/m·K. (from their own web page)
Water: 0.677 W/m·K.
Water/glycole 50/50: 0.41 W/m·K

Means Evans has only 65.85% thermal conductivity compared to regular cooling fluid.

Read carefully the manufacturers texts...
They do know because they emphasize Evans having better performance at the both extreme conditions.
That is: compared to (over)boiling water and frozen coolant. Which is obviously not a miracle.... Lol.

Not a single word for the regular temperature window a motor usually runs.

There are some other facts that make Evans not as good for a motor system designed for water based coolant mixtures. I hope you won't find out the hard way. You most probably won't, just because Honda made their homework and built an excellent motor that is damn near bullet proof.

I've been running it for 24 yrs, I have a tru-tel oil temp gauge and an autometer water temp sensor gauge. only saw a 1-2 degree difference which is basically nothing. zero corrosion or pressure in the system, since there is zero water.  again 24yrs of use and Zero issues.
Remember a hotter combustion chamber equates to more power and mpg.  Too bad they removed their technical section and just have FAQ now.
 It cools better due to it stopping local steam pockets. aka nucleate boiling

"https://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/13356.pdf
Increased Cooling Power with Nucleate Boiling
Flow in Automotive Engine Applications"


you have to read the complete design parameters and not just not in service heat transfer numbers. thousands upon thousands and esp racers use it and know the benefit.
https://evanscoolant.com/pages/faq
"Water-based coolant boils at a temperature only slightly higher than the operating temperature of the coolant. The boiling point of water-based coolant is somewhat above the boiling point of water for the pressure of the system. Localized boiling releases water vapor that can only condense into coolant that is colder than the boiling point of water. Any vapor that doesn’t condense occupies a volume that displaces liquid coolant. Water vapor is a very poor conductor of heat. Hot engine metal, insulated by water vapor, becomes an engine “hot spot” that can cause pre ignition and detonation. In contrast, the boiling point of Evans waterless coolant is much higher than the bulk coolant temperature and any locally generated vapor condenses immediately into the surrounding bulk coolant. There is no persistent vapor to insulate between hot metal and the liquid coolant. Liquid coolant is in contact with all of the coolant jacket at all times, providing a path of excellent heat transfer away from the hot metal."

"Typically no. Vehicles running under normal operating conditions should show either no change or a slight increase in temperature, but that will depend on cooling system configuration as well as driving conditions. In high horsepower applications, the temperature effect of running Evans waterless coolant will depend on the engine and cooling system components. Certain systems that use incompatible components, have an existing problem, or are poorly designed could run hotter.

Not really. With Evans waterless coolant, operating temperatures may be modestly higher than those of water-based coolant, depending on driving conditions and whether the vehicle is stock or configured as high-performance. When the engine is stressed, the coolant absorbs more heat and temperatures rise. This is not a concern when using Evans waterless coolant. The combination of the high boiling point of Evans waterless coolant and a correctly-sized cooling system means that an increase in temperature can be accommodated without cooling system failure."

[-mike-]

Whatever you may choose to believe.

Physics is the same everywhere on the planet.

At least now anyone can make his own decision, whether based on facts or marketing BS.

[Hook#3287]

Slow jets to 38's
Interstate carb springs
Handle bar risers
Blinker buzzer or light upgrade
Swap out OEM seat.

zero reason for 38 pilot jets vs the OEM 35s unless u like less MPG.  a stock engine has zero need for 38s

I quess that would be your opinion.

All 5 of my Valks have been upgraded to the 38's about 2 decades ago or when I purchased them.

Every year, after sitting for 4 - 5 months w/o any additional pre- hibernation process and corn gas, they start right up with out fail and with no misfiring.  I haven't experienced a clogged jet condition since the first back in the middle 2000's.

I've not experienced any loss of MPG at all.

If I ever purchase another, l'll do the same.

Is it a cure all of clogged slow jets?  IDK, but it's worked for me, 5 times.

[98valk]

Slow jets to 38's
Interstate carb springs
Handle bar risers
Blinker buzzer or light upgrade
Swap out OEM seat.

zero reason for 38 pilot jets vs the OEM 35s unless u like less MPG.  a stock engine has zero need for 38s

I quess that would be your opinion.

All 5 of my Valks have been upgraded to the 38's about 2 decades ago or when I purchased them.

Every year, after sitting for 4 - 5 months w/o any additional pre- hibernation process and corn gas, they start right up with out fail and with no misfiring.  I haven't experienced a clogged jet condition since the first back in the middle 2000's.

I've not experienced any loss of MPG at all.

If I ever purchase another, l'll do the same.

Is it a cure all of clogged slow jets?  IDK, but it's worked for me, 5 times.

"Rule of thumb....
If you go 1 size larger or smaller on the size of the pilot jet, you will change the fuel screw ~1.5x richer or leaner to retain the original idle mixture -"

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_pilot%20jet,%20affect%20of%20size%20on%20idle%20and%20cruise.html

[Moonshot_1]

Flux Capacitor
Stock Dark Side front and rear
Gears 6 AND 7
More trunk space
Different saddle bag lid design

[mello dude]

Flux Capacitor
Stock Dark Side front and rear
Gears 6 AND 7
More trunk space
Different saddle bag lid design

 

[mello dude]

I am very happy the way my bike turned out, it was a ton of work. Total bling it job. Polish forks. Chrome out.. wheels, calipers. Goldwing rotors polished, polish triples, Magna bar clamps, polish rear rotor and chrome brake plate, Spiegler SS lines, flame side covers, radiator cover, short mirror stalks, replace OEM mirrors with something smaller, Eagle LED Halo head light....plus a thousand other things I dont remember... (I posted many times during the project)
-- No real complaints.
Do overs? Wish list?
- Maybe chrome out the pumpkin..
- I hate the 3 piece exhaust, looks stupid, do something else if I can keep the OEM sound level..
- Really get the suspension settled, maybe send to Traxxion Dynamics before I polished the hooey out of them.
- Powder coat brake and clutch master cylinders black.
- Find some bar pullbacks, same OEM height, but an inch to inch and a half rearward.

Then a work in progress in search a of a round TUIT..... design a bracket for dual horns to fit on the front engine guard mounts.....

---then on Honda.... the bike is geared too high! I'm always reaching for a 6th gear.
(Um... do I got that right? Could pull lower RPM for the same speed.)


Am I going to do any of this? Geez no... the bike was apart 3-4 years, I am just riding it.

Cheers all!  

 

[Hook#3287]

Mello dude, your bike looks great

Nice work.

[mello dude]

Mello dude, your bike looks great

Nice work.

Thanks! 

[Squatch71]

thanks everyone for the replies.

I guess I need to look into

the Slow jets to 38'

a new seat.

new shocks.

a pull rack riser

and the coolant changed.

and putting in the fender brake light

[98valk]

thanks everyone for the replies.

I guess I need to look into

the Slow jets to 38'

a new seat.

new shocks.

a pull rack riser

and the coolant changed.

and putting in the fender brake light

you don't need the 38 pilot jets.  u can just open up the idle mixture screws more upto 4 turns out if u want more richness. 38 pilot jets are backwards emotional engineering, there is zero need for them unless major engine mods are done.  I need them but I installed aftermarket exhaust, modified air box and installed high flow cylinder heads. A Stock Valkyrie does not need 38 pilot jets. if u use sta-bil every tank the jets will never clog. consider TC-W3 also every tank, it cleans the complete intake system including the piston ring packs. see here for ratio to use. https://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91206