Turn the bars all the way to the right, fill it and do a clutch circuit bleed job.
I would do this before another clutch master rebuild.
Yes I did that the first time but......
Yesterday afternoon, I raised the handlebars to a higher level, meaning the fluid "angle" was more flat.
It did not seem to make a difference. Went out this AM and checked it seemed to be "corrected". There was "pressure" and the clutch handle when I pulled it in and it seemed to be operational. I will let it sit a few more days (suppose to have higher in the high 90's to 100 plus the next three days). Then I will take it out for a ride and see if it holds up.
That is the only real issue. I have no idea what I would do if the clutch failed to disengage and I wanted to stop the bike while in gear. I have never, to my memory, shifted gears on the bike without using the clutch.
I did, however, back in the late nineties, drive my 1996 Ford Ranger four speed stick shift, from somewhere in Florida to back home (in SC) with a failed clutch. Just got lucky.