What carb rebuild kit?

[wjamesfl]

Im doing a thorough carb cleaning. Clymer manual says separating racks not needed but im reading from experts you should separate the carbs and remove ACV valves/rubber before doing carb cleaner /air cleaning, and replace fuel rail o-rings and ACV o-rings.

However I'm also reading the AllBalls kits ACV o rings are the wrong size, and have bad float needles. And RedEye kit is no longer available, for those who rebuild themselves, what do you use? Is there a better kit out there?

[rug_burn]

    I just bought all the o-rings myself.    It's way cheaper.  I either measured and calculated the o-ring size, or went from the parts list, seen from suppliers online, which usually tells you the ID and thickness/cross section diameter.
    O-rings with fuel or oil contact should e nitrile, or viton.  You can refer to the Parker O-ring Handbook if you want more details.
    I used The O-ring Store, online.  Good luck

[98valk]

Im doing a thorough carb cleaning. Clymer manual says separating racks not needed but im reading from experts you should separate the carbs and remove ACV valves/rubber before doing carb cleaner /air cleaning, and replace fuel rail o-rings and ACV o-rings.

However I'm also reading the AllBalls kits ACV o rings are the wrong size, and have bad float needles. And RedEye kit is no longer available, for those who rebuild themselves, what do you use? Is there a better kit out there?

don't listen to so called expert fear mongers that just want to rebuild carbs,  see DDT 700+K Miles before they needed any work. The back firing/popping is being said being caused by the ACV valves, maybe maybe not, since that can happen from either being too lean or too rich. with todays unleaded gas the spark plug porcelain cannot be read, so too many will run the engine richer than it should be. IMHO always use sta-bil if its going to sit for more than 2 wks and TC-W3 in every tank.

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,130099.0.html

[Mooskee]

If you will go to my website and use the "Contact us" feature, I can email you the answer your questions. I can also send you information on the carb rebuilding process. We sell carb rebuilding kits and supplies as well.

I have no way of sending you documents through this forum.

The site is www.valkyriecarbsandcustom.com

Apparently 98valk thinks I am one of the expert fearmongers he alluded to. So nice of my  fellow Valkyrie riders to hold us in such high esteem.  Don't believe everything you hear. I  have put a whole lot of dead bikes back on the road. So have other carb rebuilders.

If you tell me what is happening, I will advise you. Obviously all problems do not require rebuilding. Sometimes you just have a vacuum leak or other issue. If you are gushing gas, or the bike has sat for a long time, you probably do need to rebuild them.

I rebuilt DDT's carbs before we went on a trip. It is true that DDT's carbs went over 760,000 miles before rebuilding. They needed rebuilding. We replaced 3 ACVs among other things, which is quite rare. Running the machine is the best way to keep the carbs working well. Sitting for long periods can plug up the slow circuits, and a "fungus" like green funk grows in the bowls.

[Joe333x]

If you will go to my website and use the "Contact us" feature, I can email you the answer your questions. I can also send you information on the carb rebuilding process. We sell carb rebuilding kits and supplies as well.

I have no way of sending you documents through this forum.

The site is www.valkyriecarbsandcustom.com

Apparently 98valk thinks I am one of the expert fearmongers he alluded to. So nice of my  fellow Valkyrie riders to hold us in such high esteem.  Don't believe everything you hear. I  have put a whole lot of dead bikes back on the road. So have other carb rebuilders.

If you tell me what is happening, I will advise you. Obviously all problems do not require rebuilding. Sometimes you just have a vacuum leak or other issue. If you are gushing gas, or the bike has sat for a long time, you probably do need to rebuild them.

I rebuilt DDT's carbs before we went on a trip. It is true that DDT's carbs went over 760,000 miles before rebuilding. They needed rebuilding. We replaced 3 ACVs among other things, which is quite rare. Running the machine is the best way to keep the carbs working well. Sitting for long periods can plug up the slow circuits, and a "fungus" like green funk grows in the bowls.

Wait you mean that 20+ year old rubber o rings covered with ethanol don't last forever?! Lol I rebuilt mine and I should have saved the o rings and sent them to him, especially the fuel rail ones, to which he tells people to just tighten the bolts down, meanwhile my o-rings were completely shot.

[98valk]

If you will go to my website and use the "Contact us" feature, I can email you the answer your questions. I can also send you information on the carb rebuilding process. We sell carb rebuilding kits and supplies as well.

I have no way of sending you documents through this forum.

The site is www.valkyriecarbsandcustom.com

Apparently 98valk thinks I am one of the expert fearmongers he alluded to. So nice of my  fellow Valkyrie riders to hold us in such high esteem.  Don't believe everything you hear. I  have put a whole lot of dead bikes back on the road. So have other carb rebuilders.

If you tell me what is happening, I will advise you. Obviously all problems do not require rebuilding. Sometimes you just have a vacuum leak or other issue. If you are gushing gas, or the bike has sat for a long time, you probably do need to rebuild them.

I rebuilt DDT's carbs before we went on a trip. It is true that DDT's carbs went over 760,000 miles before rebuilding. They needed rebuilding. We replaced 3 ACVs among other things, which is quite rare. Running the machine is the best way to keep the carbs working well. Sitting for long periods can plug up the slow circuits, and a "fungus" like green funk grows in the bowls.

Wait you mean that 20+ year old rubber o rings covered with ethanol don't last forever?! Lol I rebuilt mine and I should have saved the o rings and sent them to him, especially the fuel rail ones, to which he tells people to just tighten the bolts down, meanwhile my o-rings were completely shot.

It isn't from the ethanol, its from the aftermarket fuel additives people use that eat away at the Buna-N o-rings.  Do some material engineering education for yourself look up the chemicals u were using and what Buna-N doesn't like. further more there are different grades of Buna-N and I'm sure Honda used the higher grade. ETHANOL DOESN'T HARM BUNA-N aka NITRILE NO MATTER HOW MANY YRS IT IS EXPOSED TO IT. DO YOU UNDERSTAND???  DDT's o-rings were not like that, his bike is a '99, again 20+ yrs has nothing to do with it. Brought my left over '98 new in '00. it was sitting on the showroom floor for 2 yrs, two miles on the ODO which means it has gasoline in it at one time. 25yrs later my carbs do not leak. many many others have stated their bikes are over 20+ yrs old and their carbs don't leak. Admit the truth and be honest with your self u were using aftermarket fuel additives and that is what ate up your o-rings. This is basic materials engineering which anybody can look up using your favorite adult web search engine.

[Joe333x]

Here's a photo of one of my fuel rails with your beloved o-rings. I'm the second owner of my bike and I did not use any fuel additives besides some stabil over the winter. Besides the fuel rail rings obviously being trash all of the other rings were dry and flat as well. Were all of the o-rings leaking? Of course not but obviously I was not going to just rebuild part of it. The before and after of the ultrasonic cleaning of my carbs is night and day. Take the o-rings out of the equation the ethanol leaves a green varnish in the bowls too. You're lucky, we get it but a day will come and your carbs will leak, more than likely starting with the fuel rail which you have been tightening down instead of just replacing the rings. I don't know why I continue to get baited into these replies but the two biggest carb rebuilders for these bikes are awesome guys who contribute to the valk community and are clearly not out there just trying to get people to rebuild there carbs for no reason.

[98valk]

Here's a photo of one of my fuel rails with your beloved o-rings. I'm the second owner of my bike and I did not use any fuel additives besides some stabil over the winter. Besides the fuel rail rings obviously being trash all of the other rings were dry and flat as well. Were all of the o-rings leaking? Of course not but obviously I was not going to just rebuild part of it. The before and after of the ultrasonic cleaning of my carbs is night and day. Take the o-rings out of the equation the ethanol leaves a green varnish in the bowls too. You're lucky, we get it but a day will come and your carbs will leak, more than likely starting with the fuel rail which you have been tightening down instead of just replacing the rings. I don't know why I continue to get baited into these replies but the two biggest carb rebuilders for these bikes are awesome guys who contribute to the valk community and are clearly not out there just trying to get people to rebuild there carbs for no reason.

so your the 2nd owner. so first owner used aftermarket fuel additives, etc.?, that ate away at the o-rings.  its is still amazing that u don't understand, 10% Ethanol does not eat away at OEM Buna-n o-rings. Honda in the owners manual states engine is designed for 10%.   It seems u cannot except your thoughts about ethanol eating away at the o-rings is wrong. every chemical chart out there tells u that u are wrong.  So then u have more proof that DDT's o-rings after 26 yrs and almost 800k miles where not falling apart.  Sad that u just can't admit that u are wrong. 

see that word "Acetone" how many put into their gas? it is also in many fuel additives.

BUNA-N should not be used in highly polar solvents such as acetone and methyl
ethyl ketone, nor should it be used in chlorinated hydrocarbons, ozone or nitro hydrocarbons.
Temperature range -54°C
(-65°F) to 135°C (275°F).

Buna gets ranked #1 for gasoline
RATINGS
1 High Resistance - All materials belonging to this class are Completely or Almost Completely inert when used with the
specified chemical at the specified concentration/temperature levels

https://www.gilsoneng.com/reference/ChemRes.pdf

[Joe333x]

Here's a photo of one of my fuel rails with your beloved o-rings. I'm the second owner of my bike and I did not use any fuel additives besides some stabil over the winter. Besides the fuel rail rings obviously being trash all of the other rings were dry and flat as well. Were all of the o-rings leaking? Of course not but obviously I was not going to just rebuild part of it. The before and after of the ultrasonic cleaning of my carbs is night and day. Take the o-rings out of the equation the ethanol leaves a green varnish in the bowls too. You're lucky, we get it but a day will come and your carbs will leak, more than likely starting with the fuel rail which you have been tightening down instead of just replacing the rings. I don't know why I continue to get baited into these replies but the two biggest carb rebuilders for these bikes are awesome guys who contribute to the valk community and are clearly not out there just trying to get people to rebuild there carbs for no reason.

so your the 2nd owner. so first owner used aftermarket fuel additives, etc.?, that ate away at the o-rings.  its is still amazing that u don't understand, 10% Ethanol does not eat away at OEM Buna-n o-rings. Honda in the owners manual states engine is designed for 10%.   It seems u cannot except your thoughts about ethanol eating away at the o-rings is wrong. every chemical chart out there tells u that u are wrong.  So then u have more proof that DDT's o-rings after 26 yrs and almost 800k miles where not falling apart.  Sad that u just can't admit that u are wrong. 

see that word "Acetone" how many put into their gas? it is also in many fuel additives.

BUNA-N should not be used in highly polar solvents such as acetone and methyl
ethyl ketone, nor should it be used in chlorinated hydrocarbons, ozone or nitro hydrocarbons.
Temperature range -54°C
(-65°F) to 135°C (275°F).

Buna gets ranked #1 for gasoline
RATINGS
1 High Resistance - All materials belonging to this class are Completely or Almost Completely inert when used with the
specified chemical at the specified concentration/temperature levels

https://www.gilsoneng.com/reference/ChemRes.pdf

Lol you're laughable man, you say that the o rings last forever, I show you a photo of my fuel rail. You come back with it must be from something else besides the gasoline with ethanol in it which has been known for many years to destroy carbs and everyone knows it but you apparently. One day every single Valkyrie will need its carbs rebuilt, it's just the nature of the beast. Idk why I keep getting sucked into responding to these when I know that it's like talking to a wall and thankfully there's enough members on here that will respond and disagree with you so that new members don't take bad advice and end up catching their bike on fire.

[98valk]

how many have used chemtool B12?
how many believe in scientific testing of material compatibility with different chemicals?
how many believe one should follow the industrial standard material compatibility with different chemical charts?
how many don't want their OEM Buna-N aka Nitrile material carb o-rings to fail?

""B-12 Chemtool Carburetor Choke Cleaner
Toluene 108-88-3 40-50
Methanol 67-56-1 20-30
Acetone 67-64-1 20-30
Methyl Ethyl Ketone ""

https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00009/08099822-20151111.PDF

see that word "Acetone" how many put into their gas? it is also in many fuel additives.

""BUNA-N should not be used in highly polar solvents such as acetone and methyl
ethyl ketone, nor should it be used in chlorinated hydrocarbons, ozone or nitro hydrocarbons.
Temperature range -54°C
(-65°F) to 135°C (275°F).

Buna gets ranked #1 for gasoline
RATINGS
1 High Resistance - All materials belonging to this class are Completely or Almost Completely inert when used with the
specified chemical at the specified concentration/temperature levels""

https://www.gilsoneng.com/reference/ChemRes.pdf

[98valk]

Nitrile, Buna-N in ethanol 20-40% swell, nothing about deterioration. 

Viton® Type A in ethanol 20-40% swell, nothing about deterioration. 

https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-chemical-compatibility-chart.htm#chemId=778