New member just got a Valkyrie has questions

[Sixgunluvr]

Hello everyone, new member here with many questions.  I recently bought a 2003 Valkyrie and am having very minor gas leak from middle carb on right side…is this #3.  Also have some hoses that are cut.  I know very little about DIY bike repair and hope to start a dialogue here.  Will post some pics as soon as I figure out how.

[sandy]

If you post where you live, maybe someone local can come take a look. BTW: you have a nice mechanic helper.

[Sixgunluvr]

She’s more of an ornament than a helper.  . Still working on pics.  Here is one of the hose missing.



Are carbs numbered a certain way?  It’s the middle carb on the right side of your sitting on the bike. It only seems to leak once per riding session in a very small amount of say a few drops and drips from what looks like the carb itself.

I also have some cruise pegs and fender trim for sale if anyone is interested.  I don’t use cruise pegs and I bought the fender guard before I realized I would have to drill a hole in the fender to install it…won’t be doing that. It would look nice however.
[url=https://postimages.org/]
][url=https://postimg.cc/G9Jk6Bdk]

[TrapperAH1G]

Seems you have the numbering down right.  Sitting on the bike, right front is 1, left front 2, right middle 3, left middle 4, right rear 5, left rear 6.  Looks like the hose you're missing is the vacuum line....if you're trying to show the cap in the photo.  Indicates your bike has been desmogged.  Should only have a vacuum line on number 6, left rear carb.  This will go to your petcock unless it's been changed to pingle or other non vacuum type petcock.

Interested in your items, send me a message.  Thanks

[TrapperAH1G]

BTW, do tell us where you are. 

[Jess from VA]

Welcome  (like your handle ).

If you didn't get one with the bike, you want the OE Honda 1500 1997-2003 Service manual (not aftermarket Clymers).

New is expensive, they can probably be found on Ebay cheaper.

Here's a PDF link.
https://web.archive.org/web/20220328115011/https://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

There's lots of links to good information on this site.  Like this one.  https://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

[Sixgunluvr]

Ok… so I went out and did some more checking by just letting it idle and taking a good look. It appears I have a leak coming from the fuel rail directly behind carb number three. This is quite disappointing as I have just bought the bike a couple months ago and it seemed fine on the two hour ride home.
  I live in Chester West Virginia about 45 minutes west of Pittsburgh. I fear at this point. I’m going to need to do a complete removal and rebuild. I see there is a guy on eBay that does total rebuild if you send him the carb bank. I think I could probably get the carb bank out this winter but I think a rebuild is definitely out of my league.
   I work full-time so I don’t have a lot of time, off Fridays and Saturdays and some vacation next week. Perhaps a member here would have a few minutes to chat over the phone. I will continue to update with pics and questions. Thank you so much everyone.

   Trapper has first dibs to discuss the pegs and trim rail as soon as I get time after work next day or so to respond.

[HayHauler]

Give Mooskee a PM here on the board.  He rebuilds carbs all of the time.

Just my opinion.

Hay  
Jimmyt

[Pluggy]

She’s more of an ornament than a helper.  . Still working on pics.  Here is one of the hose missing.



Are carbs numbered a certain way?  It’s the middle carb on the right side of your sitting on the bike. It only seems to leak once per riding session in a very small amount of say a few drops and drips from what looks like the carb itself.

I also have some cruise pegs and fender trim for sale if anyone is interested.  I don’t use cruise pegs and I bought the fender guard before I realized I would have to drill a hole in the fender to install it…won’t be doing that. It would look nice however.
[url=https://postimages.org/]
][url=https://postimg.cc/G9Jk6Bdk]

.

The stubby black rubber thing in the top picture is a Honda vacuum cap.  With the engine guard in the picture, it indicates we are at cylinder #2. This is the way Honda made it.  Nothing modified.

[Sixgunluvr]

“The stubby black rubber thing in the top picture is a Honda vacuum cap.  With the engine guard in the picture, it indicates we are at cylinder #2. This is the way Honda made it.  Nothing modified.”

   Gotcha, so after looking again it is “capped” at numbers  1,2,5 with hose connected to 3,4,6.

[wjamesfl]

I am also a new owner. I decided to take on rebuilding the carbs my self. It's alot (atleast for me, first time working on carbs), but the service manuals helped tremendously. Organization is paramount.

It couldn't hurt to check if the 4 bolts for your carb rack are torqued correctly since those tighten up the carbs together meaning the fuel rails too. I decided to crack open my carbs though and go through them replacing o-rings and hoses for piece of mind.

 I highly recommend checking out the YouTube channel Moto-Resto Machine and Repair. He has a Playlist of 16 videos working on Valkyries. Multiple videos of carb removal/disassembly/cleaning/reassembly to give you an idea of what you'd be in for. I learned alot about these bikes from that channel and watched all his videos before attempting carb rebuild.

If it looks like more than your willing to take on, there are definitely several options out there for shipping them out but you'll still want to use the resources mentioned above for removing them.

I dont know about the eBay option, but Valkyrie Flat Six and Valkyrie Carbs and Custom both seem to be the more established carb rebuilders from what research I did.

DM me id you have more questions on the carbs. Im no expert, far  far more experienced people on here, but I've been going through this recently (past 3 weeks)

[Pluggy]

   Gotcha, so after looking again it is “capped” at numbers  1,2,5 with hose connected to 3,4,6.

Your motorcycle is correct. That's how Honda built it.  

[Sixgunluvr]

Thanks for the responses so far everyone. I’m not really sure if they’re even is a carb issue. I was told when I bought the bike that the carbs were gone through a few years ago, but I have no way of verifying that. Remember the issue that I do know that is obviously present is that there is a leak I’m assuming at the fuel rail at this point.  Which of course means I might as well have the carbs gone through because they’re going to have to come off the bike and take apart to get to the fuel rail O-rings correct?

[HayHauler]

Like wjamesfl said above, there is no harm in verifying the torque on the long bolts that hold the carb banks together.  You never know, it just might stop your leak.
If it doesn't, then you can look into it further.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Sixgunluvr]

Like wjamesfl said above, there is no harm in verifying the torque on the long bolts that hold the carb banks together.  You never know, it just might stop your leak.
If it doesn't, then you can look into it further.

Hay  
Jimmyt

Ok Thats my next step. I took it for a ride this morning and the leak continues but it is very minor. Seems like if I get somewhere and wipe it clean it is dry when I get home….weird.
Can I access the carb long bolts without removing anything?

[Joe333x]

Like wjamesfl said above, there is no harm in verifying the torque on the long bolts that hold the carb banks together.  You never know, it just might stop your leak.
If it doesn't, then you can look into it further.

Hay 
Jimmyt

Ok Thats my next step. I took it for a ride this morning and the leak continues but it is very minor. Seems like if I get somewhere and wipe it clean it is dry when I get home….weird.

It's gasoline dripping onto a hot engine so it will evaporate quickly but it will end up leaving a greenish stain like this in the photo below. Mine started leaking fuel a little when I first got it and then it got worse to the point I wouldn't feel safe riding it. I rebuilt the carbs and, installed an electric fuel shut off as well as a non vacuum petcock.

[HayHauler]

if it seems to be getting better, the o-rings might be swelling back up after being dry for so long.  If it isn't dangerous, I would keep riding it to see if it completely stops.

Just my $.01875.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Sixgunluvr]

Like wjamesfl said above, there is no harm in verifying the torque on the long bolts that hold the carb banks together.  You never know, it just might stop your leak.
If it doesn't, then you can look into it further.

Hay  
Jimmyt

I just went out to check the nuts on the long bolts. Left side was firm so I had low expectations to start then I checked the one on the right side and it took about 3 to 4 mm of travel before it lightly went “tink.”  I now have high hopes gonna let it sit tonight while I’m at work and see what happens tomorrow afternoon when I take it for a ride..

[HayHauler]

Like wjamesfl said above, there is no harm in verifying the torque on the long bolts that hold the carb banks together.  You never know, it just might stop your leak.
If it doesn't, then you can look into it further.

Hay  
Jimmyt

I just went out to check the nuts on the long bolts. Left side was firm so I had low expectations to start then I checked the one on the right side and it took about 3 to 4 mm of travel before it lightly went “tink.”  I now have high hopes gonna let it sit tonight while I’m at work and see what happens tomorrow afternoon when I take it for a ride..

    

Please let us know how it goes.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Sixgunluvr]

Still leaking a few drops every few minutes up behind or including carb #3. Looks like I’m gonna have to try to get the carb rack out and send it off for a rebuild.  Just need to find a close storage where I can start on it.

[Sixgunluvr]

Seems like it doesn’t leak once I’ve gone somewhere and head home. In other words when I get somewhere and look, there’s a few drops, if I wipe them dry when I get home, it seems to be dry.
Weird…

[KTRT]

If I might chime in, you might suffer from the same problem as I did, the leak wasn’t coming from the carbs exactly, it was going from the fuel rails behind the carb. I’m told by more experienced members that it’s a common issue with o-rings that are 20 years old.

In fact, I think you should watch out for this leak getting worse overtime, this is what happened to me until it leaked like a sieve last Sunday.

[Sixgunluvr]

If I might chime in, you might suffer from the same problem as I did, the leak wasn’t coming from the carbs exactly, it was going from the fuel rails behind the carb. I’m told by more experienced members that it’s a common issue with o-rings that are 20 years old.

In fact, I think you should watch out for this leak getting worse overtime, this is what happened to me until it leaked like a sieve last Sunday.

Yes, I agree. I do think that is where it is coming from. I am trying to limp my way into October where I will attempt to pull the carb rack myself once the bike is in storage and send it somewhere to be refurbished/cleaned/rebuilt.  I did not realize when I bought the bike that it has more O rings than a redhead has freckles. 

[Draeger]

Change the O-rings. Easy, quick job. Probably have to do it anyway at this time in the bike's life. You won't regret it and it may cure your problem.

[98valk]

If I might chime in, you might suffer from the same problem as I did, the leak wasn’t coming from the carbs exactly, it was going from the fuel rails behind the carb. I’m told by more experienced members that it’s a common issue with o-rings that are 20 years old.

In fact, I think you should watch out for this leak getting worse overtime, this is what happened to me until it leaked like a sieve last Sunday.

20 yrs of age has nothing to do with it. people were using the 20 yr self life spec which has zero to do with installed life. conditions such as chemicals such as those on many over the counter fuel additives don't like Buna-n aka nitrile oem o-rings.

manual states all nuts, bolts, etc., should be checked for tightness every 8k? miles.  the end nuts of the thru bolts that hold the carb banks together do/can get loose, road vibrations and the expansion/contraction of the thru bolts from the engine heat cycles will cause those nuts to get loose.

my '98 brought new as left over in '00 and now 86k miles twice I had to tighten the nuts. leak stops.

https://madisongroup.com/o-rings-an-effective-simple-and-versatile-sealing-solution/

""In order to seal reliably, a continuous “seal line” must be formed at the interface between the O-ring and the mating gland surface. The creation of this “seal line” is a result of a combination of the gland design, the O-ring cross-section, and the proper level of compression of the elastomeric material.""

[Challenger]

Change the O-rings. Easy, quick job. Probably have to do it anyway at this time in the bike's life. You won't regret it and it may cure your problem.

I had a leak on # 3 several years ago. Tried tighting the through bolts which was fruitless.  Seperated carbs just enogh to remove the tube and replace packing. Did not remove carb bank. Took an hour and no more leak.

[Joe333x]

Change the O-rings. Easy, quick job. Probably have to do it anyway at this time in the bike's life. You won't regret it and it may cure your problem.

I had a leak on # 3 several years ago. Tried tighting the through bolts which was fruitless.  Seperated carbs just enogh to remove the tube and replace packing. Did not remove carb bank. Took an hour and no more leak.

Packing? Assuming that was supposed to say o-ring?

[Challenger]

Change the O-rings. Easy, quick job. Probably have to do it anyway at this time in the bike's life. You won't regret it and it may cure your problem.

I had a leak on # 3 several years ago. Tried tighting the through bolts which was fruitless.  Seperated carbs just enogh to remove the tube and replace packing. Did not remove carb bank. Took an hour and no more leak.

Packing? Assuming that was supposed to say o-ring?

No, couldn't find fue rail o-rings without buying the tubes with the seals on them so I used square edge packings out of an orbit motor seal kit. They were similar in size and fit perfectly. Still working. 

[Sixgunluvr]

So I decided to back off the tension on the long bolts through the carburetors and re-tighten them. When I did, I stripped one of the nuts does anyone have a link to where to get a couple of these or is it just something I can get from the local hardware?

[Joe333x]

So I decided to back off the tension on the long bolts through the carburetors and re-tighten them. When I did, I stripped one of the nuts does anyone have a link to where to get a couple of these or is it just something I can get from the local hardware?

Take the good bolt to the store and try to find a similar one. I wish the one guy on here that keeps telling people to jack down those bolts would stop. If your fuel rail is leaking the o-rings are shot, the fuel rail won't leak with those bolts not on at all if the o-rings are good, the bolts are just there to keep everything together, not to help create a seal. The o-rings are so far down into the carb on the fuel rails so it would not possibly slip out of the carb and the tube it goes in is not tapered.

[Mooskee]

It is an M6 x1 nut with a bit of a flange. You can get something at the hardware store.
Only tighten it 7 ft lbs. That is not much.
If you need thr through rod, let me know. I can sell you one. Also if you want the leak properly fixed contact me.

[Joe333x]

It is an M6 x1 nut with a bit of a flange. You can get something at the hardware store.
Only tighten it 7 ft lbs. That is not much.
If you need thr through rod, let me know. I can sell you one. Also if you want the leak properly fixed contact me.

Wait, you mean I shouldn't jack it down as tight as I possibly can to try and stop a leak caused by a shot o-ring?

[Sixgunluvr]

I’m no expert, I don’t think there is anything wrong with the through bolts. I just stripped the nut. I know one of the members mentioned making sure they were tight……….I gave it a shot. It didn’t work. So if anyone else tries to snug them up in hopes a leak will stop just don’t overdo it as Mooski mentioned they are only 7 foot pounds.
   I just want to replace the nut now and limp my way into October before I attempt to pull the carb rack myself and have it refurbished. I am certainly no mechanic and just pulling the carb rack will be at the edge of my abilities. I’m sure I will continue to watch some YouTube videos on the removal process.

[Joe333x]

I’m no expert, I don’t think there is anything wrong with the through bolts. I just stripped the nut. I know one of the members mentioned making sure they were tight……….I gave it a shot. It didn’t work. So if anyone else tries to snug them up in hopes a leak will stop just don’t overdo it as Mooski mentioned they are only 7 foot pounds.
   I just want to replace the nut now and limp my way into October before I attempt to pull the carb rack myself and have it refurbished. I am certainly no mechanic and just pulling the carb rack will be at the edge of my abilities. I’m sure I will continue to watch some YouTube videos on the removal process.

I'm not a mechanic by trade but I am mechanically inclined. You can definitely get the carbs out on your own, don't follow the service manual though. Use this PDF, I take no credit for this, this is from Dave at https://www.valkyrieflatsix.com/.
https://jumpshare.com/s/HzwAoHVhxOcwgIUjDkZB
I uploaded some videos on YouTube on rebuilding the carbs after I cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner. It's a meticulous job but I wouldn't say it's something only a mechanic can do. If you someone who could build a model or something similar it's definitely doable, I took mine off, set them up on a table in a room and rebuilt one at a time and I was good to go by the time spring came.

Disassembly
https://youtu.be/tx3AnNUVahI?si=XBHIoFeG6k_xUruP
Reassembly
https://youtu.be/qiY2pCfTwMw?si=p2qMvrZV13vTg7QI

[Sixgunluvr]

“ I had a leak on # 3 several years ago. Tried tighting the through bolts which was fruitless.  Seperated carbs just enogh to remove the tube and replace packing. Did not remove carb bank. Took an hour and no more leak.”   I sure wish I could do that. How did you manage to do that Challenger? 

[Challenger]

Sixgunluvr,  PMd you, check your inbox.