2001 Interstate, 66k miles, 3rd owner - won’t idle

[leboyd]

I’ve read several threads on bikes that won’t idle, but my issue is slightly different (I think). On the ones I saw, someone had done some work of one kind or another on the bike and then it wouldn’t idle.

In my case, I purchased the bike from an elderly gentleman who didn’t have the strength to ride it anymore. He sent a video of the bike running (at idle) and when I went to look at it, it started and idled fine.

I then drove it up on the U-Haul motorcycle trailer, strapped it down and hauled it 350 miles home.

Once home, I was only backing it, so I didn’t attempt to start it. I rolled it back off the trailer and into the garage.

The next weekend, I had trouble getting it started, as it didn’t want to idle. I then went for a short ride, got to a parking lot and did 30-45 minutes of slow speed practice. During this, the bike died a couple of times when I stopped and generally would not idle.

I sent the seller a text asking what the trick was to get the bike to idle. He called me back immediately and was downright disappointed I was having troubles. He said he just put the “choke” on full and started it up. After a few minutes he would turn the “choke” off.

After trying to start it and get it to idle, simply by adjusting the “choke”, I’m just unsuccessful. This is true whether the bike is cold, warm or hot.

I verified that the battery is strong by measuring the volts at 13.7. Not that it matters much, but the battery is from Feb. 2025 Interstate. I don’t have cranking issues.

I do have a strong smell of either, what I would call, a rich exhaust or even a gas leak. I took off a lot of the chrome to look at the petcock, and there’s definitely no gas leak anywhere.

So… a long story (hopefully to address any questions someone might ask) to get to the question of “What might be the issue?”

I didn’t want to adjust the idle without getting some input from the experts. I realize the idle screw could have vibirated on the trip, but that didn’t seem too likely to me.

If the experts say to adjust the idle screw, that’s what I’ll do.

Thoughts from the experts?

[John97]

You are moving the choke lever all the way right? In case you aren’t familiar, when you push the lever down until it stops that’s not “on”   When the lever gets hard to move that’s when the choke is starting to come “on”. If you remove the 3 screws holding the long thin rectangular cover over the throttle linkage you will see the choke cable running lengthwise and you’ll see the small enrichment plungers that get pulled out in each carb. Move the lever and you’ll see it’s not until force is really put on the lever that the plungers move.

If you’re past this and the problem still exists then I’m not sure. I trailered my bike 1800 miles and my idle set knob never moved if that helps.

[leboyd]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I wasn’t clear. When I said “on”, I did mean full down position. I’ve tried the choke in multiple positions, from barely “on” to full “on”, with the engine cold to warm to hot. Although it changes how it works when adding throttle, starting and the idling problem doesn’t seem to change.

[ridingron]

On my other bike, a V4 Honda, that usually means the low speed jets aren't clean. Sometimes it'll start on full choke.

About the choke, I would remove the 3 screws and verify the choke mechanism is actually moving as mentioned above by John97.

Are you sure there is gas in the tank and the valve is on? Maybe try setting the valve to reserve (in case the level is low).

[Jims99]

I would check for a vacuum leak. Hoses and caps can get a hole in them that isn’t noticeable. Has it been desmogged? That will help to reduce vacuum leaks. You can also try to run a fuel cleaner through a tank. I’ve had good luck with berrymans b12, Techron and marvel mystery oil. 

[DragonRdr]

I have a 2000 Interstate. Have you tried adjusting the idle after the bike warms up? It's a black adjustment knob on the right side of the engine between the first 2 carb intake tubes. There's a picture on page 3-12 of the Valkyrie Honda service manual if you have it. The idle should be set at 900rpm. Not sure if this will help, but it's worth a try. Also, how long had the bike been setting before you bought it? You might try running some Berrymans B-12 in the gas. Some debris may have jarred lose from one of the carb bowls and might be blocking one of the idling jets. I had this happen on my Gold Wing. Good Luck  

[Joe333x]

As suggest you can try to adjust the idle with the black idle adjustment knob on the right under the manifolds. Also never apply throttle while the choke is on, you'll flood it. You should try running it with some Berryman B12 in the tank, you could have some old gas in there that clogged the jets.

[leboyd]

THanks for all the replies and suggestions.

The tank is full and I added B12 when it wouldn't idle the first time I tried it.

I don't know 100% whether it's been desmogged, but I don't think so.

The bike has a TON of "chrome" covering all of the engine/etc. I've removed several pieces on both sides just to get to where I could check for a fuel leak. To mount all these pieces there are many brackets mounted on the engine, which is uncommon from what I can see in YT videos. It appears I need to remove several of these just to remove the gas tank.

I can simply adjust the idle and see if that "sovles" the problem, but I wanted to checck to see if anyother had other thoughts.

Thanks again.

[Hook#3287]

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-7710-Transmission-Cover-Valkyrie/dp/B000GV9YQY&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiFsZKtneqQAxWh48kDHeInKwYQFnoECAkQAg&usg=AOvVaw2UHbyXt0QbQMEfrrWrcgoP

Is this what your dealing with? I've never owned those, but someone may that will give any advice on working with them.

To inspect if your bike has been desmogged check the hoses coming off the vent tubes of the carb intakes.  If there is only one going to the OEM petcock, or none going to a aftermarket, then she's  been desmogged.

Doesn't mean desmogged correctly, but if she ran right before, then probably.

There are many opinions on how to treat with B-12, and most will probably work, but mine is to add half a bottle to a full tank of new gas and go for a good ride.  Let her sit overnight (or longer) with treated gas in the carbs and go for another ride.

If no positive results, repeat.

If that doesn't change the situation, carb removal may be in your future.

Good luck.  Let's us know how your doing.

[leboyd]

Thanks.

I wish it was as simple as just two parts. I had to remove four on EACH side to get some view for inspection.

I don’t think it has been desmogged. It’ll take more removal of chrome parts and maybe some of the brackets.

How you use B-12 is the way I use it.

What’s your opinion of adjusting the idle?

[Mooskee]

Adjusting the idle will cause no harm. The adjustment knob is a grey or black knob on the right side of the #3 carb. You can reach it with your finger tips between the #1 & #3 carb intakes. That is on the right side as you sit on the bike. The knob has spines that stick out to facilitate the adjustment.

Adjust the RPM to 900 +/- 100 RPM.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

[98valk]

how many have used chemtool B12?
how many believe in scientific testing of material compatibility with different chemicals?
how many believe one should follow the industrial standard material compatibility with different chemical charts?
how many don't want their OEM Buna-N aka Nitrile material carb o-rings to fail?

""B-12 Chemtool Carburetor Choke Cleaner
Toluene 108-88-3 40-50
Methanol 67-56-1 20-30
Acetone 67-64-1 20-30
Methyl Ethyl Ketone ""

https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00009/08099822-20151111.PDF

see that word "Acetone" how many put into their gas? it is also in many fuel additives.

""BUNA-N should not be used in highly polar solvents such as acetone and methyl
ethyl ketone, nor should it be used in chlorinated hydrocarbons, ozone or nitro hydrocarbons.
Temperature range -54°C
(-65°F) to 135°C (275°F).

Buna gets ranked #1 for gasoline
RATINGS
1 High Resistance - All materials belonging to this class are Completely or Almost Completely inert when used with the
specified chemical at the specified concentration/temperature levels""

https://www.gilsoneng.com/reference/ChemRes.pdf

[DragonRdr]

how many have used chemtool B12?
how many believe in scientific testing of material compatibility with different chemicals?
how many believe one should follow the industrial standard material compatibility with different chemical charts?
how many don't want their OEM Buna-N aka Nitrile material carb o-rings to fail?

""B-12 Chemtool Carburetor Choke Cleaner
Toluene 108-88-3 40-50
Methanol 67-56-1 20-30
Acetone 67-64-1 20-30
Methyl Ethyl Ketone ""

https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00009/08099822-20151111.PDF

see that word "Acetone" how many put into their gas? it is also in many fuel additives.

""BUNA-N should not be used in highly polar solvents such as acetone and methyl
ethyl ketone, nor should it be used in chlorinated hydrocarbons, ozone or nitro hydrocarbons.
Temperature range -54°C
(-65°F) to 135°C (275°F).

Buna gets ranked #1 for gasoline
RATINGS
1 High Resistance - All materials belonging to this class are Completely or Almost Completely inert when used with the
specified chemical at the specified concentration/temperature levels""

https://www.gilsoneng.com/reference/ChemRes.pdf

You have a good point. You should be aware of the chemical compatibility of any thing you add to your fuel or oil. I've only used B-12 once, and as per the instructions on the bottle. I'm sure continuous use would not be good for the Buna o-rings and could cause serious problems down the road. The only other additive I use is Ethanol Shield for winter storage. I use to use Stabil Marine, but switched to Ethanol Shield a couple of years ago. The Safety Data Sheet for Ethanol Shield doesn't show anything of concern.

Substance/mixture: Mixture
Components Name CAS number Weight %**
Lubricant Base Oil (Petroleum) Highly refined
mineral oils (C15-C50)
Mixture * 50 – 70
Distillates (Petroleum), Hydrotreated, light,
Naphtha
64742-47-8 3 – 7
2-Cycle Engine Oil Additives Mixture Proprietary 30 – 40
Ethanol Shield Additive Proprietary 7 – 10

[da prez]

Maybe post your location. There is someone nearby that will help ,teach you.  Most dealers have no idea how to treat a Valkyrie.

                                                           da prez