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Author Topic: I’m no mechanic  (Read 251 times)
Sixgunluvr
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Posts: 29


« on: December 06, 2025, 01:01:06 PM »

But I did get the carb rack out with no problems. Some say the air box is a pain, but I took a tip to take the clamps off first and then reach in and keep the legs together as best you can and it slips right out. The plastic guard the shields the radiator/hose now that was a pain. Just have to squeeze it together as it slips out up through the top like the air box did. The plastic would have been more pliable if it was warm.     All in all no trouble going from parked with a full tank off gas to looking for a box to put the carb rack in in just 2-3hrs.
  I did not remove any mounting brackets. I did not fully remove the fuel selector.





I did take the wiring harness off the small frame studs. Removed the coil on the left and used a couple zip ties to keep things out of the way. I’ve read using zip ties when reinstalling the air box is a huge help.  
« Last Edit: December 06, 2025, 01:25:27 PM by Sixgunluvr » Logged
98valk
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Posts: 13677


South Jersey


« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2025, 02:50:49 PM »

no reason to remove the radiator shield. the tech manual instructs to move the upper engine mounts out of the way.
air box goes in and out much easier when done taken out and put in vertically end to end.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2025, 05:51:39 PM by 98valk » Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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Sixgunluvr
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Posts: 29


« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2025, 03:05:57 PM »


air box goes in and out much easier when done taken out and put in vertically end to end.

Yep, you have to turn it a bit.
I simply followed the video from D-Ray Smith/youtube and had no issue.  He said “if this ole redneck can do it, you can do it too.”  I did it.  Hopefully I can get it back together correctly.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2025, 04:37:32 PM by Sixgunluvr » Logged
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