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pancho
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« on: December 14, 2025, 01:19:00 PM » |
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Going to change the oil and because it cranks too slow to start when very cold, thinking about 5W 40 oil. Wondering what the latest thinking is on the subject.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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ridingron
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« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2025, 08:59:24 PM » |
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Put the weight Honda says and pick your own brand.
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98valk
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« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2025, 05:06:37 AM » |
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Going to change the oil and because it cranks too slow to start when very cold, thinking about 5W 40 oil. Wondering what the latest thinking is on the subject.
what is very cold? the battery might be on the way out. make sure the oil meets ford spec https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/Ford%20Motor%20Company%20CK-4%20FA-4%20Position%20Statement.pdf
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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sandy
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« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2025, 08:14:31 AM » |
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Dinosoar oil gets thicker when cold. Synthetic does not, so the right viscosity won’t thicken in the cold.
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pancho
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« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2025, 08:45:53 AM » |
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Cold to me is 25 degrees or lower.. you might have something there sandy, I may have used dino oil the last time I changed it, not sure... be sure to use synthetic this time. I am looking for reports of any who have used 5w 40 for an extended time and their experiences. 
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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pancho
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« Reply #5 on: December 15, 2025, 08:55:26 AM » |
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Yeah, I was thinking about the battery 98valk, but is is only 3 years old and fires the bike right up at 32 and above.. don't have a proper load tester for it. Not sure at this point, but would like to try the lower viscosity oil unless someone has a report of the flaming death like used to go around car tires on valks.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2025, 09:47:38 AM » |
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Yeah, I was thinking about the battery 98valk, but is is only 3 years old and fires the bike right up at 32 and above.. don't have a proper load tester for it. Not sure at this point, but would like to try the lower viscosity oil unless someone has a report of the flaming death like used to go around car tires on valks.
3-4 years is all the aftermarket batteries are good for. You can MAKE them go 5 or more years but they are not optimal that long in service
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mello dude
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Posts: 998
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #7 on: December 15, 2025, 10:50:50 AM » |
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Cold to me is 25 degrees or lower.. you might have something there sandy, I may have used dino oil the last time I changed it, not sure... be sure to use synthetic this time. I am looking for reports of any who have used 5w 40 for an extended time and their experiences.
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,132030.0.html
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me....... * Mr. Murphy was an optimist.... * There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius..... * My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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NewValker
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Posts: 1403
VRCC# 36356
Oxford, MA
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« Reply #8 on: December 15, 2025, 02:10:43 PM » |
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I used Rotella T6, 5W 40 in my VTX for 80k miles. Tried them all, felt this was the best, and shifting was smoother. I bought my Valk in 2015 with 17k, went right to the T6, turned 87k just before snow last month. Neither bike used any oil between changes. Oil & filter changes were between 9-10 thousand miles. Also, my garage got well below 32* every winter and I run my bikes every 2 weeks at least. They always start ok, and I run them until the fan cycles. Always on a trickle charger, and batteries will last 7-8 years. YMMV,
Craig
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Turns out not what or where, but who you ride with really matters 
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98valk
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« Reply #9 on: December 15, 2025, 02:16:49 PM » |
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I used Rotella T6, 5W 40 in my VTX for 80k miles. Tried them all, felt this was the best, and shifting was smoother. I bought my Valk in 2015 with 17k, went right to the T6, turned 87k just before snow last month. Neither bike used any oil between changes. Oil & filter changes were between 9-10 thousand miles. Also, my garage got well below 32* every winter and I run my bikes every 2 weeks at least. They always start ok, and I run them until the fan cycles. Always on a trickle charger, and batteries will last 7-8 years. YMMV,
Craig
" and I run my bikes every 2 weeks at least." one of the worst things in the world to do
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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NewValker
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Posts: 1403
VRCC# 36356
Oxford, MA
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« Reply #10 on: December 15, 2025, 02:33:21 PM » |
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Ok, I’ll bite, why’s that?
Craig
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Turns out not what or where, but who you ride with really matters 
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Joe333x
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« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2025, 04:40:13 PM » |
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Ok, I’ll bite, why’s that?
Craig
I do the same now, start them up and let them run for a while every week or two in the winter. Last year I just used stabil and let it sit all winter and needed to run some B12 to get her running right again. This year no stabil and just keep the fuel flowing since really the worst thing you can do is let ethanol sit in the carbs for extended time. In the past I have heard people say starting them up can cause condensation to collect when they cool down but it's really no different than if you went and took it for a ride which I'll do as well as long as there's no salt on the road.
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98valk
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« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2025, 06:08:58 PM » |
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Ok, I’ll bite, why’s that?
Craig
u won't be able to get the oil up to operating temp of 220F to burn off the un-burnt raw fuel, water condensation, and acids that got into the oil during a cold start, both which greatly degrade the oil. and yes fuel injection greatly reduces the raw fuel event. if the oil has a low TBN the acids start to attack the bearings. Diesel oils always have a high TBN number. Also most of an engines wear is during a cold start esp., when temps are 32F and below. this can all be looked up and verified.
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« Last Edit: December 16, 2025, 06:42:05 PM by 98valk »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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pancho
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« Reply #13 on: December 18, 2025, 08:23:25 AM » |
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Well, I was barking up the wrong tree. As some mentioned, the battery was the culprit for not starting under the cold conditions. I didn't pursue that at first because I have always gotten 7-9 years on a motorcycle battery. When I looked it up, I see that I put this one in four years ago, (time flies) I think it was called a Black Max. Going back to Yuasa. I figured the bike itself would serve as a proper load to test the battery, and it was like 7 volts while cranking, now it had become a bit run down while messing around,, still. Like many have noticed over the years, a low battery will still spin the motor when the voltage is too low to fire the ignition.  The bike has had about 5K miles since the last oil change and like all of you know, it had not used a drop. We have great bikes... I did put 5w 40 synthetic oil in it, and we will see haw it acts when I can take a ride. I expect a 20 MPG increase in fuel consumption and dead quiet, effortless shifting. If I find any contrary effects, I'll let you know. As always, thanks all for the input.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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