How do you press a new Steering Stem Bearing on ???

[valk2128]

I am about to replace the steeing stem bearings.

Once the steering stem is removed, how do you remove the races and install the new ones?

How do you remove the old lower bearing and press the new one on?


Thanks

[DFragn]

You can knock the upper race out from below with a mallet and screwdriver a bit at a time working your way around the circumference.

The lower race from above with a 5/8" threaded rod and a ground heavy washer locked in between 2 nuts on the bar. Screwdriver won't work on the lower.

Use the old races to seat the new ones - a small dead-blow works well or even a 16oz.+ hammer.

Bad news is the lower race will torment you, but it'll come out.

Pack the new bearings well.

Stem Seating torque. Don't listen to the manual...seat those bearings at 65lbs., work the head, back the torque off a bit and repeat 65lb. torque twice more before final torque setting of ? 12 lbs.? I think it is for Standard/Tourer / IS is a pound or so different I don't recall which way though (+/-)

[Warlock]

I am about to replace the steeing stem bearings.

Once the steering stem is removed, how do you remove the races and install the new ones?

How do you remove the old lower bearing and press the new one on?


Thanks

I use a small die grinder with a cut off wheel. Start cuting it on one side. Before you will cut thru it it will heat up and take a screwdiver and it will come off. I forgot to mention that's after you remove the outer part of the bearing. What I done after removing the inner race off the shaft I finish cutting it into on one side and use this for installing the new bearing. Slide you new bearing on and then the old race on top of that. That is used to push against the inner race on the new bearing. Now get you a piece of 1 1/4 pipe x 10" long. A piece of all thread rod will slide right thru your steering stem. Put some nuts on it and use it to push you bearing on the stem. I call it a poorboy press. Have used this method several times and works like a charm. The next one I do I plan on taking some pictures and see if they can post them in the Shoptalk. I'm offshore at present and plan on doing a buddies bike when I get home. So will be around three weeks before I get to take pictures.
David

[Ricky-D]

You can knock the upper race out from below with a mallet and screwdriver a bit at a time working your way around the circumference.

The lower race from above with a 5/8" threaded rod and a ground heavy washer locked in between 2 nuts on the bar. Screwdriver won't work on the lower.

Use the old races to seat the new ones - a small dead-blow works well or even a 16oz.+ hammer.

Bad news is the lower race will torment you, but it'll come out.

Pack the new bearings well.

Stem Seating torque. Don't listen to the manual...seat those bearings at 65lbs., work the head, back the torque off a bit and repeat 65lb. torque twice more before final torque setting of ? 12 lbs.? I think it is for Standard/Tourer / IS is a pound or so different I don't recall which way though (+/-)

I apologize, but I have to take exception to the part about tightening down on the bearings in order to seat the races in the steering stem assembly.

By tightening down using the bearings you risk indexing the bearings from the git-go.

All the races should be seated completely before hand. That means clean the mating surfaces completely and use other methods to fully seat the races. Like for instance an arbor. Failing to have an arbor you should use a threaded rod w/ washers and nuts.

Save the old races so they can be used to push the new races in to "fully seated"  Use a pipe to seat the  inside bottom race on the stem.

Like as always said, never use a hammer on new bearings, never use the bearings to tighten down the races.

You know, "a word to the wise".

***

[fudgie]

Be sure to recheck torque after a 1000 miles or so. 

[Madmike]

Proper installation procedures will help to realize maximum service life out of any bearing.  Any external forces that distort or damage the bearing are undesirable.  

If you elect to "seat" the bearings by torquing them up with the locknut you have to be very careful as you run the risk of flattening the rollers and damaging the races.

If you are going to drive on the races use a soft tool like a brass drift rather than a hard punch.  

After you drive the old races out check the surfaces that they seat up against to see if you have created any burrs that will interfere with getting a proper fit on the new parts.  

If you have the resources the best way to install a bearing on a shaft is to heat the bearing which will allow it to drop on without using any force at all.  

Most of us do not have an induction heater at home but an alternative is to heat the bearing in a small bucket of oil or use an old 110Volt deep fryer filled with clean engine oil and heat the bearing that way - this is handy as most are equipped with a heat control and will kick off automatically and you can use the basket to lift the bearing out of the oil.  Check out some garage sales and you may find one cheap.

 

The cups (outer races) will install much easier if you chill them in a freezer or alternatively get or make some dry ice and use that.  If you take the old cups and slightly reduce the OD on a bench grinder so that they will freely enter the bore you can use them with your tooling (redi rod and related hardware) to press on the new cups and help on the install.

Let all parts to equalize in temperature (have a coffee) before final assemble if you use the above methods.

packing bearings	powered by Aeva