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Author Topic: Seat Pan Modifications  (Read 1774 times)
mirion
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*****
Posts: 254

1997 Std - 2000 IS

Frankenmuth, Michigan


« on: March 09, 2010, 08:23:35 AM »

I would like to modify a Corbin seat that was made for a Standard to fit on my 97 that has a Interstate tank. It is presently on there but I had to make a spacer for the bottom of the seat to extend the seat latch because the longer seat sits on the tank and won’t reach the latch. This is not good for the tank and the seat does not sit on the frame as it should. It also puts me higher than I like. Has anyone done this modification to the seat that would require detaching the upholstery, cutting and reforming the seat pan, and then reattaching the upholstery? How would you cut, reform and weld the plastic pan?
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junior
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Posts: 1427


new hampshire


« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2010, 01:40:20 AM »

i know this issue i did it myself. drill the rivets off the nose of the seatpeal the leather back and cut about 1/2 inch off the nose and reshape the outter corners of the seat pan not the foam, pull the seatcover back in place and test fit if its to your liking rivet it back in place and the mod souldnt be notieable, mine isnt  cooldude i used a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder and a hacksaw
« Last Edit: March 10, 2010, 01:42:04 AM by junior » Logged

GRR
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Posts: 21


Left Coast


« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2019, 09:16:40 AM »

I realize this is an old thread, but my experience may be of some help the next time someone wants to do the same thing - put a Corbin solo saddle on a first gen Valkyrie Interstate.

I bought a used stock Corbin solo seat for the Valkyrie, part #VSB. The Corbin site makes no mention of this fitting the Interstate, which I have.

The seat will not fit without modification.

I removed the forward-most 14 rivets, pulled the leather back, and cut off close to 2 inches of the fiberglass pan, leaving the soft foam in place.  I can't say for sure how much I took off because I did it in steps, but it required removing a lot more than I expected. I found a hacksaw worked best and didn't create too much dust, whereas a rotating blade creates a big mess.

When finished, the front of the pan was mostly squared off, rounding not necessary, and when installed, sat 1/8" behind the tank. The underside of the pan hit the radio module, so I had to remove the battery cover/radio holder to get the radio to sit lower.

There was still interference with something, perhaps the sides were too narrow, so I put 3/8" spacers under the seat latch to get it to lock in.

The result is that the seat fits well enough, with the now-soft nose laying over the rear of the tank.

As someone noted, it takes courage to go hacking into an expensive seat. Think twice if you are considering this and think about other brands that drop right in.

I like the way the result looks and it's more comfortable than the stock solo seat.

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GRR
Member
*****
Posts: 21


Left Coast


« Reply #3 on: March 31, 2019, 08:42:40 AM »

I should have been more clear - when removing material, I cut it back 2" from the front edge of the soft foam. I'm not sure how much actual fiberglass was removed, maybe a half inch or so.
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