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txhood
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« on: March 09, 2010, 11:10:44 AM » |
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Have an 03 standard and have a problem with the idle on my bike. When first starting it and riding around town, it idles fine at about 900. If I drive at highway speeds for any length of time and come to a stop, the bike will not idle below 1700 or 1800. Is this common or is there some problem with my bike? If the motor is allowed to cool off the idle drops back down.
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Madmike
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« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2010, 12:29:18 PM » |
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I'd start by checking the easy things first... throttle cables and linkage not binding on the RHS you will see where the cables wrap on the linkage and you can manipulate it there, may also want to check that the enricher is fully off ....
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Joe Hummer
Member
Posts: 1645
VRCC #25677 VRCC Missouri State Representative
Arnold, MO
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« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2010, 12:32:06 PM » |
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I would be willing to put money on that it is gunk in your choke circuit on the carbs. When I picked my bike up, it sat for 2 years and was not put up right. The old gas had gunked up everything. A thorough cleaning fixed that problem.
Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
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DFragn
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« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2010, 03:48:12 PM » |
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Mine has acted like that since I took delivery as new. My first ride home in the dark the idle shot up to 17-1800. And, I had no idea where the adjustment was at the time.
My recommendation. Set your idle adjustment at operating temperature not when cold or warm.
When the engine components heat up and expand they will self adjust your idle for you and it's always too high.
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D.Tater
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« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2010, 10:17:47 AM » |
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Set your idle adjustment at operating temperature not when cold or warm.
When the engine components heat up and expand they will self adjust your idle for you and it's always too high.
I would agree. If my idle is set to 900 at a normal operating temperature it idles at around 500 when cold and slowly works its way back up to 900. Not sure if everyone's does this.....this it the way mine operates. |
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David '97 Standard ![](http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/weathersticker/gizmotimetempbig/language/www/US/FL/Jacksonville.gif") |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2010, 10:47:11 AM » |
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That particular problem is indicating a synchronization most likely is needed.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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DFragn
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« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2010, 11:06:34 AM » |
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That particular problem is indicating a synchronization most likely is needed.
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There's something to be about engine temp when syncing too. Engine & component temp also effects the quality of a carb sync and where it ends up at normal operating temps. Sync usually sees the engine temp well above op temp so under average running temps most Valk's aren't running as sync'd as when they were adjusted, which usually ends up being done at a much higher temp in a garage. |
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Pete
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« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2010, 04:51:27 PM » |
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That is why they make $15.00 box fans --- to cool a Valk during carb Sync.
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2010, 06:08:33 PM » |
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Friend's was doing that....we found 2 large holes in vacuum lines
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2010, 07:32:49 PM » |
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My 99 I/S was just sync'd and it still idles at bout 500+ when cold and 900+ at operating temp as was mentioned before. Set it at desired RPMS at operating temp and for get abour it.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast. |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2010, 07:15:17 AM » |
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My 99 I/S was just sync'd and it still idles at bout 500+ when cold and 900+ at operating temp as was mentioned before. Set it at desired RPMS at operating temp and for get abour it.
In my opinion I think that's about right. Employing the choke will keep a cold motor running at a fast idle enough to warm the motor. 900 rpm's is a touch low for my taste and just barely enough for the alternator to be in a positive charging state. Within a couple of minutes of warming the rpm's are enough to maintain a good steady idle. *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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DFragn
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« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2010, 09:27:23 AM » |
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My 99 I/S was just sync'd and it still idles at bout 500+ when cold and 900+ at operating temp as was mentioned before. Set it at desired RPMS at operating temp and for get abour it.
In my opinion I think that's about right. Employing the choke will keep a cold motor running at a fast idle enough to warm the motor. 900 rpm's is a touch low for my taste and just barely enough for the alternator to be in a positive charging state. And with a 200rpm pwr consumption reduction load it maintains 14.2 at idle. However I do have an inconsistent idle drop issue - cause unknown - though heat related... Alt=85k & bushing replacement @ 60k Within a couple of minutes of warming the rpm's are enough to maintain a good steady idle. *** My Alternator puts out 14.2 @ 600rpm according to my gauge that's been test confirmed. But I keep my rpm @ 1100 'cause all my consumption drops it to 900 where I like it. |
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« Last Edit: March 11, 2010, 11:24:28 AM by DFragn »
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2010, 11:19:29 AM » |
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At night when I pull into the garage I notice the variable intensity of the headlight, depending upon the rpm's.
Seem like 1000rpm's is enough to keep em nice and bright, while at 900 rpm's the light intensity dims a bit.
This is, of course, according to my tachometer.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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