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bill v e
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« on: March 10, 2010, 10:11:05 AM » |
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running down the hwy last wkend - in a moment there's grinding and clattering - pull in the clutch, noise stops, roll to a stop. assumed u joint. get her trailered home - removed rear wheel, shaft, boot and one good u joint. don't know what to think now. have it up on the lift still. any suggestions?  |
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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Cattman
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« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2010, 10:14:02 AM » |
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Wheel bearings. Clutch plates?
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2010, 10:18:04 AM » |
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I'd say it was the clutch basket rivets.
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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RLD
Member
Posts: 318
'99 I/S Red/Black
Eden Prairie, MN
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« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2010, 10:23:56 AM » |
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Clutch would be my guess. If it stops with the lever pulled in, it can't hardly be wheel bearings. According to the service manual, it does not list first pulling the motor to fix this.
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Dress for the slide, not the ride. ATGATT
VRCC #2505
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bill v e
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« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2010, 10:32:33 AM » |
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ok - just went out and started her up, put her in gear and let out the clutch. engine shaft rotated just fine, no grinding - so . . . will inspect final drive and shaft again - can't be rear wheel bearing if it rolled without noise when i pulled the clutch lever in, right? just in case, how do i check for rotation on the rear wheel with it off?
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2010, 10:39:26 AM » |
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You can feel the bearings with your finger. Any roughness would indicate a bad bearing. Whether or not that would cause your problem is conjecture.
Did you run through the gears when you started the motor?
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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bill v e
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« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2010, 11:03:16 AM » |
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just first and second - i'll go try all gears - since i remember grinding when i tried to move forward in first after i stopped, i didn't think to check all gears. maybe it only grinds under load (u joint, shaft and final drive connected?) still thinking i would have sensed the noise was coming from the grip/handle area instead of below me. trying to think of something simple like most honda problems are, but not coming up w anything yet.
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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bill v e
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« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2010, 11:14:36 AM » |
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probably going to need a local mechanic try to diagnose this. when i went through all gears it seemed fine, until i let the rpm's get low in high gear - then it was noticably 'gurgling' somewhere forward of the exposed engine shaft (that the u joint fits on). the engine runs just fine in nuetral. this is really starting to puzzle me. ???
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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Daniel Meyer
Member
Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2010, 11:14:58 AM » |
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Pull the driveshaft out of the pinion cup...that is, out of the rear end joint. Methinks you'll find what you are looking for there. (it just pulls out...if it's sticking, give it a tap with a hammer whilst wiggling and pulling)
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer  |
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Detn8er
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« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2010, 11:18:15 AM » |
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Pull the driveshaft out of the pinion cup...that is, out of the rear end joint. Methinks you'll find what you are looking for there. (it just pulls out...if it's sticking, give it a tap with a hammer whilst wiggling and pulling)
You beat me to it Daniel......His drive shaft and pinion cup are toast. Parts are less than a hundred dollars. Don't forget to order a new dust seal with a shaft and pinion cup. |
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bill v e
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« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2010, 01:00:13 PM » |
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THAT'S IT! THANKS DANIEL AND SOUTH CAROLINA! wish i would have checked that before pulling the u joint - oh well, there's a reason for everything. i'll clean everything up good in there and learn how to reassemble. not sure how to get that pinion gear cup off yet. where can i get the shaft, seal and pinion gear cup for $100 or less? and, i suppose this has happened because i've never greased in there, just on final drive and u joint end of shaft. am i supposed to get grease in there when i pull the rear wheel and pumkin?
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2010, 01:12:24 PM » |
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THAT'S IT! THANKS DANIEL AND SOUTH CAROLINA! wish i would have checked that before pulling the u joint - oh well, there's a reason for everything. i'll clean everything up good in there and learn how to reassemble. not sure how to get that pinion gear cup off yet. where can i get the shaft, seal and pinion gear cup for $100 or less? and, i suppose this has happened because i've never greased in there, just on final drive and u joint end of shaft. am i supposed to get grease in there when i pull the rear wheel and pumkin?
 You can get the pinion cup off with an impact wrench, and back on too... Over the last few years I've read a lot of stuff about the other questions you asked, Daniel and another VRCC member named Lee seem to be the best sources of non-manual information... See those holes in the bottom of the pinion cup? When you have the cup in your hand you can see that they are different - lube from the final drive goes in one hole, and back to the drive through the other hole... lube is not lost from the drive, but lube from the drive lubes the pinion end of the drive shaft and the pinion cup, the seal keeps lube from being lost... reassemble the pinion end of the drive shaft with just a light coating of moly-grease (not moly paste) - don't use enough to clog up the holes... it would be interesting if you told us if your old pinion cup's holes were clogged... Hopefully Daniel or Lee will read this an correct anything I got wrong... -Mike |
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bill v e
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« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2010, 01:40:29 PM » |
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well, i don't have the center nut and washer? at the bottom out yet (i guess i'll have to put the pumkin and final drive back together to be able to impact that nut off) but i can definitely tell the holes are/were plugged. i should be able to pull that seal back and make sure the holes are unplugged every time i take the pumkin off. a few thousand miles ago when i chngd my back tire, i pulled back that pinion cup seal and noticed it was dry in there so i forced a dab of waterproof grease down in there. i bet the holes were already plugged then.
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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Daniel Meyer
Member
Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #13 on: March 10, 2010, 02:42:01 PM » |
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The holes can clog because the thing is a great centrifuge...it spins out all the crap from the rear end fluid and it gunks up. If you pull it apart every 10,000 miles or so (when you do the splines) and clean the crud out of it (look in the "butt" of the shaft too) and then a light coating of grease (not paste) for assembly lube...then you can get a lot of miles out of these (they do wear "some"). With proper maintenance I expect 80-100k miles out of one. Always change the shaft and pinion cup together. You can get the parts at http://www.hdlparts.com/ |
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer |
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #14 on: March 10, 2010, 04:48:59 PM » |
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I broke mine awhile back. Put the flange back in the final drive and put a bar between two of the pins on the flange to keep things from turning and use an impact wrench to loosen the nut. It worked well both tearing down and putting the new one on.
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