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Author Topic: Wheel balancing  (Read 3305 times)
Youngsmoke
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Posts: 33


Las Vegas, NV


« on: March 17, 2010, 11:48:59 PM »

Hey all,
  I was on a road trip a while back and had a tire failure due to a bad valve stem.  I got lucky and the closest shop had a new front tire for me but they did not have the 90 degree valve stem that the valk takes so they replaced it with a straight stem to get me back on the road.  The new stem has been holding pressure fine, but it is starting to bug me how much more difficult it is to check and fill the tires.  As such I am going to take the bike in to have it replaced, the question I have is about DynaBeads.  I have wondered about them for a while and was thinking I would switch to them when the shop changes my stem.
   I tried to do some searching on the board but am not finding much in the way of feedback on them, just people admitting to having them.  Do you have them?  are they worth it? do they extend or even shorten the life of your tires?
  Thanks for the advice,
Hammer
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DFragn
Guest
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2010, 12:46:43 AM »

Many here swear by the "beads".

The only thing is if you change your mind the only way to get 'em out is to break down the tire from the rim.

But, no one has reported removing them due to dislike or imbalance. To the best of my knowledge. Can't say you'd do wrong doing' the beads.

Me, a bit conventional. Probably because I like the isolation of my "Man Cave" and do my own tire changes and balance'.



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Cliff
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Posts: 930


Manchester, NH


« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2010, 03:53:25 AM »

I use the beads in both front and rear (no weights) and at all speeds (not over 110) smooth as could be.  I just bought some in 5 lb bulk and now have a lifetime supply  Smiley
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roboto65
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Posts: 878


Conroe,TX


« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2010, 03:58:07 AM »

I have the beads in ALL my tires I like a couple other members bought them in bulk.  I truely belive in them some say hoopla but I have added the beads and taken all the weights off the truck and my bikes and smooth as glass.    Another instance my wife has a 2004 Explorer Sporttrac with 16 inch rims and larger tires not huge mind you just not stock and the truck was a salvage truck hit in the side.

We have had it aligned and all the good stuff but anyway we had a problem with cupping on the front left and this tire had cupping starting..   But after adding 5 oz to each tire it has reversed it's self and the truck rides smooth now so do I think they work.    Yes and if you buy in bulk they are not that much money or if you want to try them in your Valk shoot me a PM .

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Allen Rugg                                                       
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1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate
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wiggydotcom
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Do Your Best and Miss the Rest!

Yorkville, Illinois


« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2010, 05:05:34 AM »

DFragn,

Did you get your wheels chromed or are they just SUPER polished? They look nice, whichever the case.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30466


No VA


« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2010, 05:19:02 AM »

Best stems:
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/tire_valves/index.htm
 
Install for Valk same as for Wing (below):

EXCEPTION: 1988-2000 Honda GL1500 GoldWing & 2001-2008+ Honda GL1800 GoldWing, and all years Honda Rune: Not in stock form -- minor modification required.
Kudos to Mike at JBJ Cycles for pointing out this issue on the GL-series. Also note that on many years, rear valve will need to face left or be installed off-angle (70 - 75° instead of 90°) if installed pointed towards the right, to clear the rear caliper & caliper bleeder valve.
Honda created the wheels for it's GoldWing series with a T-support for the valve stem to address a valve clearance/collapse issue -- and stupidly enough, put the support to the left side (sidestand-side), so owners can't readily get at their tire valves without placing the bike on the centerstand. Taking a dremel to cut/grind away this "T" support (see picture of T-support here) flush with the rest of the valve seat area will permit installation of our valves, as well as permitting you to face the valve in the opposite direction as stock (i.e. - permitting it to face to the right side, so pressures can easily be checked & air easily added while stopped on the sidestand). If mounting facing the caliper, for many years' models, you must install the valve at an slightly off-angle to prevent it from contacting the caliper (70 - 75° to direction of rotation of the wheel, instead of 90° -- please check clearance before dismounting the wheel to ensure your placement will be feasible (we suggest use of a wax pencil to mark the acceptible seating angle).



Dyna beads OR Ride-On.

http://www.ride-on.com/prod_mot.asp

Balancing and Ride and Stability Issues

The product manufactured by our leading competitor was originally designed for use in bicycle tires, and according to their website is “not intended for speeds in excess of 75 mph”. Ride-On is designed to actually help hydrodynamically balance tires at highway speeds. Once installed in a tire, it will actually act to dampen vibrations for the life of a tire so you do not need periodic rebalancing. Although we don’t condone speeding, our dealers and customers comment that their bikes actually run smoother at speeds as high as 150 mph. Ride-On should be installed in tires and wheels that have been professionally mounted and balanced. Once installed, you should not try to rebalance a tire containing Ride-On – just let it do what it is was formulated to do!


 
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shortleg
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Posts: 1816


maryland


« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2010, 07:12:46 AM »

  Both Goody and I put them in our tires before we went to Inzane last year.
This was the first time for both of us[so we were very gentle]
  They were smooth as glass. Goody put them in his front tire for his trike
and I used them both front and rear.
               Shortleg[Dave]
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DFragn
Guest
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2010, 07:38:52 AM »

DFragn,

Did you get your wheels chromed or are they just SUPER polished? They look nice, whichever the case.

That's funny... Cheesy to me. 'cause that rear wheel was pitted terribly, because I got lazy and only cleaned the front after a winter road salt excursion. I spent about 15 hrs wet sanding (then polish compound/buffing wheel for another 3 hrs.). My heavily calloused finger tips were bleeding from the wet sanding.
I stay off of the salted roads now. Guess I'm geting lazier.
Thanks for thinking they were chromed. I wish they were!
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2010, 07:49:32 AM »

I dont have any weights on my front tire and its smooth a silk. Had the tire mounted last march and he had 2.25 oz off weight. Felt a tad bouncy so I took them off. Front tire looks good after 8k.  crazy2
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Youngsmoke
Member
*****
Posts: 33


Las Vegas, NV


« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2010, 12:26:18 PM »

THanx all,
  Think I am gunna make the leap, I run Metzler 880's front and back, how much should i be putting into each?  The chart on dynabeads website says 2oz front and back, would you recommend more?
cheers
Hammer
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Youngsmoke
Member
*****
Posts: 33


Las Vegas, NV


« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2010, 10:57:11 PM »

@jess from VA
   So i was looking into those new valves and I am thinking about ordering them, but I am confused abbout weather or not they will fit.  Is that paragraph saying that all I need to do is cut off the "T" piece and then they will fit fine?
thanks
Hammer
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Disco
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Republic of Texas


« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2010, 05:09:44 AM »

I would go with 3oz in the rear - that's how much lead I took off my wheel + Avon Cobra.

Here's another popular replacement valve stem.  They're not as cool or pretty as the billet alternatives, but they work and are much cheaper.  I recently bought 4 on eBay for about $16.00 delivered and most of that was shipping.  Patchboys 90 degree valve stem

If you go the Patchboys route, be sure to snug them pretty tightly or they'll leak.  Don't ask...   tickedoff
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30466


No VA


« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2010, 06:58:24 AM »

@jess from VA
   So i was looking into those new valves and I am thinking about ordering them, but I am confused about whether or not they will fit.  Is that paragraph saying that all I need to do is cut off the "T" piece and then they will fit fine?
thanks
Hammer

Yes.

The valves are 90 degrees and lay flat on the rim.  Without cutting the T's, the stems must be aimed at the low side (left).... not really a problem on the front, but a royal pain on the back with hardbags (laying on your belly underneath to check and add air).  Cutting the T's is no big deal... you'll never use the substandard OE 2-piece setup again.  Cut them off and smooth the rough edges; done.
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Gunslinger
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Posts: 404


Brian Huntzinger, EMT-P

Wamego, KS


« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2010, 06:57:07 AM »

If you are going to replace the vavle stem anywayABSOLUTELY go with an all metal setup such as one of those described. The OEM 90 stem has a rubber seat, and if the support goes missing the valve stem has a tendency to crack and dump all of the air.

Convieniently this happens most often at cruising speed (and in my case mid corner on a Mountain pass) tickedoff Not a fun time to lose all the air in the front tire.
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alph
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Eau Claire, WI.


« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2010, 08:49:54 AM »

DFragn,

Did you get your wheels chromed or are they just SUPER polished? They look nice, whichever the case.

i'll second that coment!  they look great!!  hard to believe they're not chromed!!
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6jugzz
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LUV2RIDE...buy safety chrome

Rock hill,SC


« Reply #15 on: March 22, 2010, 01:19:28 PM »

I use the beads in both front and rear (no weights) and at all speeds (not over 110) smooth as could be.  I just bought some in 5 lb bulk and now have a lifetime supply  Smiley

+1...got some coming with my new tire today.
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f6dood
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Posts: 5


Spring, Texas


« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2010, 07:47:15 PM »

I just installed Bridgestones on my wing w/ Dyna Beads. Smoth as butter. I'll soon put them in my Valkyrie. Highly recommend them.
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