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AussieValk
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« on: March 19, 2010, 09:37:27 PM » |
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I'll try and keep this brief but descriptive.
2000IS, had rear wheel off about six months ago to change to CT and do regular maintenance. Checked bearings, lubed everything, assembled as per method in shop talk. Has been fine and running well.
Cooked the rear brake fluid on some steep twisty roads a short time back so I replaced brake pads and fluid. Took caliper apart and cleaned cyclinders, and all worked fine. Last run was about 500kms with no problems. It's been hot and wet here so no riding for about the last month.
Today was fine so went out for a short run to get some clean fuel. Had hardly left home when I heard a sort of clunking/rattling noise that seemed to come from the rear on the brake disc side. I pulled over, checked what I could and everything seemed tight so I put it down to maybe flicking up a rock with the CT. Took off again and all was well. Rode about 50kms with no problem or noise. Stopped to pick up some lunch and when taking off the same noise came back, a real rattling/clunking sound. Stopped and checked again but seemed ok. Rode home no problems.
I put the bike on the lift to look for the noise (I was looking for a loose bolt 'cause thats what it sounded like). Everything tight, shocks, brakes, exhaust, and spun the rear wheel and could feel a slight brake drag. Tried to move wheel sideways to check bearings but all seemed tight.
So now I'm lost as I cant think what else it could be. I'm planning a 1500km ride over Easter and I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with something broken. Any ideas what else I should be checking??
TIA.
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sandy
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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2010, 11:19:37 PM » |
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Time to check the U joint.
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AussieValk
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2010, 11:29:53 PM » |
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It did seem to happen on slow left hand corners.
Would the U joint noise be symtomatic on one type of corner/speed only, or would it be a constant noise while not under load?
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eric in md
Member
Posts: 2495
ride hard now we all can rest when were gone !!!
in the mountains .......cumberland md
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2010, 03:09:16 AM » |
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still could be a bearing. wheel to tight? check bearing again and u joint dont over tighting the wheel axle nut
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2010, 06:12:57 AM » |
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Check the caliper real good. there are two spring metal clips that hold the pads. Its very easy to lose one or have it get bent (loosen) so it is ineffective at stabilizing the pads, and then they will rattle like that
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fast black
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« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2010, 06:16:01 AM » |
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I believe you have a bad left rear wheel bearing.
adios
fast black
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PushStart
Member
Posts: 19
Black '99 InterState
Story City, Iowa
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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2010, 06:52:07 AM » |
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When mine sounded like that it was the bearings.
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fudgie
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Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2010, 07:01:46 AM » |
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Check the brakes over again. I had a left hand turn metal click, 2 up. Took pads off and reaplied and all was fine.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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AussieValk
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« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2010, 07:37:27 AM » |
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Thanks all. I'll start with the brake caliper and work my way back through.
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Blackduck
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« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2010, 08:11:47 AM » |
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If you heated the rear up that much I would pull the wheel off again and relube splines, check the bearings and uni to be safe. Far easier at home than on the roadside.
Have had some weird noises from tyre wear on different road surfaces in turns. Have a good look at the tyre edges as well.
Cheers Steve (West Aus)
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Warlock
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« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2010, 08:27:16 AM » |
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Thanks all. I'll start with the brake caliper and work my way back through.
Also check your rear dampeners. They have been known to make a clicking noise. If rear loose they will click on the drive pins. Just something else to check while tire rear end is off. David |
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 I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby |
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alph
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« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2010, 11:12:03 AM » |
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i guess i would start with the bearings. with a car tire, (not that i know any thing about 'em) i would think that you're adding alot more mass to the rear wheel, more then the OEM bearings can handle.
if anyone knows of this being a problem for bearings let me know, i'm thinking of a car tire myself!!
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Promote world peace, ban all religion. Ride Safe, Ride Often!!   |
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2010, 12:23:13 PM » |
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i guess i would start with the bearings. with a car tire, (not that i know any thing about 'em) i would think that you're adding alot more mass to the rear wheel, more then the OEM bearings can handle.
if anyone knows of this being a problem for bearings let me know, i'm thinking of a car tire myself!!
9k on my CT, 54k on the bike, original bearings. |
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Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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AussieValk
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« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2010, 04:32:35 PM » |
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Ok, it's Sunday morning here and time to find the fault.
First up, if I put the bike in gear and rock forward and back, there is a little bit of movement and a slight thud on change of direction. Not really what I'd call a loud clunking or clicking sound and I think its always been there that I know of. Is that normal?
The U-joint removal will require the dropping of the swingarm, correct? I haven't been that far in before and I hate doing unneccesary work so if I don't need to venture there I won't. In reality how susceptible to failure is the U-joint/drive shaft?
Oh, and she's got 104000kms on her now so it wouldn't surprise me to find bits starting to wear. I thought I was keeping up with the preventative maintenance but obviously not.
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MP
Member
Posts: 5532
1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar
North Dakota
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« Reply #14 on: March 20, 2010, 04:37:37 PM » |
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No, do NOT drop the swingarm. Go to http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html, and there is an article there about changing it without removal of the arm. I just did one on my IS, and it is not too bad. The rear wheel, etc. does need to be removed though, so you can check that all out carefully as you remove it, to see if anything else went bad. If not, then on to the U-joint. With that many miles, I would just go ahead and change it anyway. About $100. Peace of mind for you. MP |
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« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 04:41:43 PM by MP »
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 "Ridin' with Cycho" |
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AussieValk
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« Reply #15 on: March 20, 2010, 04:47:44 PM » |
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Thanks MP.
Very much appreciated.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #16 on: March 20, 2010, 09:56:18 PM » |
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i guess i would start with the bearings. with a car tire, (not that i know any thing about 'em) i would think that you're adding alot more mass to the rear wheel, more then the OEM bearings can handle.
if anyone knows of this being a problem for bearings let me know, i'm thinking of a car tire myself!!
The ground holds up the car tire. The bearings hold up the back half of the bike, but not the wheel. |
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