Trying to find 10mm 1.25 rod or bolt.(SEE MY NEW POST ABOVE)

[John Schmidt]

I've tried every fastener company in the Orlando area with no luck. I can buy 10mmx1.50 on any corner in town, but not the 1.25. What the heck was Honda thinking off. I'm ready to drill the forward fender plate nut out(rear fender) and tap it with SAE thread, but in checking diameter at first it appeared that 3/8" would do the trick. But, there's almost a .020 difference between the two diameters(10mm and 3/8"). That's too sloppy a fit, so I'm thinking maybe take it out to the next largest COMMON size and tap it with SAE. OR....since that forward bolt doesn't come in contact with the tire anyway, maybe just drill it out and not tap it...just bolt the sucker from the inside out and forget it. Works fine on the back one so why not the front one?? Any suggestions other than that?

[98valk]

honda's thinking is making custom length bolts so u have to buy from them at a major markup.

just buy the bolt u can and flat grind the end on a bench grinder to the length u need. have extra nuts so as to clean up the thds. I have done this before, works every time. My local ACE hardware usually has what I need in metric and sometimes in chrome.

[lee]

What I did John:
Bought 10mm X 1.50 bolt at ACE hardware.
Bought a 1.25 Die at sears.  (just another die for my hardly ever used supply)
I don't remember the length of the bolt but it was treaded about half way.
Cut head off bolt, cut threads 1.25 on head end. (kinda hard to hold but
if you gota big vise and a couple of pieces of oak easy to do.) Used 2 jam nuts
to screw in finder.  Used 1.50 nuts on outside for rail.
Final product: Stud bolt with 1.25 on one end and 1.50 on the other end.

[sandy]

Yes John: It should work to drill out the threads and use a bolt from the inside. I'd still keep it a 10mmX1.5 so that you don't have to remember/switch tools when working on it in the future. Use a nylock locknut for the first nut on the fender rail. Slip your new hitch over the stud and nut that. Spacers are gonna help with the bag mount.

[Ratdog]

Were the two links I sent you a bust?

[John Schmidt]

Were the two links I sent you a bust?

I was trying to find something locally. I'll have to take a look at those links, this is turning into a real PITA. I can't even find a high strength SAE carriage bolt, they're all that soft junk used for wood working.

[6jugzz]

http://www.boltdepot.com/dimension.aspx?cc=20&cs=77&cm=21

these guys got,em

[Valker]

Local Fastenal place should be able to get anything.

[junior]

drill and helicoil them

[John Schmidt]

I found that site but the bolts aren't threaded full length. I can get that hex head of the right size here in town, but have no way to cut the threads for the additional length. I have a die for 1.25, just try cutting thread on that large a bolt with it. I'm debating about going to a local machine shop and see if they will thread a rod for me, one with some strength, then I can cut it to length. Probably cost a bunch but unless I want to drill out the threads that exist, I'm stuck.

[roboto65]

I sent this to John already but for you guys that want to lighten up the Valk here ya go

http://www.jerseycycles.com/Product-Pages/Titanium.html

 

[Robert]

If you are in Orlando post the size and length you need and I will more than likely have it in my spare bolts bin and ship it to you. Oh and just verify the pitch dont want to get it wrong. I may even have it in allen head. it more than likely will only take a day plus I may have a warehouse in your area that has it.

[NITRO]

Same problem here recently. Fastenal can get threaded rod in 10mm 1.25 in meter lengths. It was $27 I believe.

[Sodbuster]

I've tried every fastener company in the Orlando area with no luck. I can buy 10mmx1.50 on any corner in town, but not the 1.25. What the heck was Honda thinking off. I'm ready to drill the forward fender plate nut out(rear fender) and tap it with SAE thread, but in checking diameter at first it appeared that 3/8" would do the trick. But, there's almost a .020 difference between the two diameters(10mm and 3/8"). That's too sloppy a fit, so I'm thinking maybe take it out to the next largest COMMON size and tap it with SAE. OR....since that forward bolt doesn't come in contact with the tire anyway, maybe just drill it out and not tap it...just bolt the sucker from the inside out and forget it. Works fine on the back one so why not the front one?? Any suggestions other than that?

Give Hitch Doc a call and ask what they have for hardware. They gave me longer bolts (Chrome !!) for mine when I ordered a Hitch to be used with hard bags.  Don't remember the length but it was quite a bit longer.

http://www.hitchdoc.com/motorcyclehitches.php

I'd be real surprised if you couldn't work out something with them.

[John Schmidt]

If you are in Orlando post the size and length you need and I will more than likely have it in my spare bolts bin and ship it to you. Oh and just verify the pitch dont want to get it wrong. I may even have it in allen head. it more than likely will only take a day plus I may have a warehouse in your area that has it.

I'm in the Orlando area...Winter Park to be exact. I need replacement for the two forward rear fender bolts. What I need is: 2 each 10mm x 1.25 thread, and approx. 100 mm long, and has to be full thread. If they are full thread, I can cut the head off and use them as a stud, like threaded rod. I found some bolts that are just threaded about the first 1.5 inches, that doesn't work, and I tried to cut more thread but can't. At 100mm length, that's slightly longer than what I need but I'd rather get them about 5mm too long...I can always cut the excess off. If available in a higher strength bolt...or just threaded rod, so much the better. I have the "quick bag drop" kit on the bike so they are actually a stud, not the OEM bolt. Thats's why a threaded rod actually is better than a couple bolts, I can cut the rod to length.

[Bob E.]

I bought some high-strength threaded rod in 10X1.25 from McMaster-Carr online.  But they didn't have stainless steel, so it has rusted on the end of the stud that shows through the nut.  Also, it was expensive.  I think around $18 for about a 12" piece.  However, I found the local Fastenal store said they could cut me any threaded rod I wanted in stainless.  So I'll probably eventually order some from them.

[John Schmidt]

I bought some high-strength threaded rod in 10X1.25 from McMaster-Carr online.  But they didn't have stainless steel, so it has rusted on the end of the stud that shows through the nut.  Also, it was expensive.  I think around $18 for about a 12" piece.  However, I found the local Fastenal store said they could cut me any threaded rod I wanted in stainless.  So I'll probably eventually order some from them.

I like the idea of SS but.....it's not very strong. The strength is at the lower end of the scale and since this is for mounting a hitch, that won't cut it. Those same bolts/studs are also used to mount the saddlebags and any weight they might carry. I want at least Grade 5, the bolts I removed are that and not SS, I used anti-seize on the entire bolt and a dab of clear coat on the end. Absolutely no rust in over five years.

I plan to check with a machine shop today where I know the owner, see if he has some good rod and will cut some thread for me. I'll get a piece long enough so I have some spare....just in case.

[junior]

silly me i didnt know it was for the back fender and for the hitch..............uncage the nuts and put grade 8 in there. put the bolt in from the tire side and use an acorn nut on the outside

[Bob E.]

I bought some high-strength threaded rod in 10X1.25 from McMaster-Carr online.  But they didn't have stainless steel, so it has rusted on the end of the stud that shows through the nut.  Also, it was expensive.  I think around $18 for about a 12" piece.  However, I found the local Fastenal store said they could cut me any threaded rod I wanted in stainless.  So I'll probably eventually order some from them.

I like the idea of SS but.....it's not very strong. The strength is at the lower end of the scale and since this is for mounting a hitch, that won't cut it. Those same bolts/studs are also used to mount the saddlebags and any weight they might carry. I want at least Grade 5, the bolts I removed are that and not SS, I used anti-seize on the entire bolt and a dab of clear coat on the end. Absolutely no rust in over five years.

I plan to check with a machine shop today where I know the owner, see if he has some good rod and will cut some thread for me. I'll get a piece long enough so I have some spare....just in case.

If you think about it, the rear bolt carries most of the load of the hitch, and that is only 8mm.  Depending on the grade of stainless, the ultimate strength is about 115ksi with a yield of 92ksi (type 316 stainless).  According to the formulas in AISC, two 8mm bolts in shear through the threads would be capable of carrying over 3000lbs.  Even considering these are dynamic loads with some impact, that is way overkill in my opinion. 

According to McMaster-Carr, Grade 5 bolts are ASTM A449...which has an ultimate strength of 120ksi, which is just slightly higher than the A316 stainless.