Wheel bearing replacement is easy.
You use a drift to knock out the old bearings.
working from the opposit side of the wheel you force the bearing spacer collar off axis so that the inner edge of the far side bearing is exposed. A socket extension will work if you don't have a drift, but watrch out for small dents you may put in the end of the extension, you may have to file or grind them out.
work your way around the the inner circle of the bearing to force it out evenly.
the second side is easier because the collar and opposit bearing are already out.
Buy your bearings at
www.bearingsdirect.com.
They are less expensive and ship for less.
You will need to know the dimensions of the bearing for the order.
if you or someone you know has measurement calipers you are all set.
when putting the new bearings only put force on the outside race of the bearing if you hit the inside race you will damage the bearing. find a piece of pipe or large socket that matches the size of the outer race. Put the bearing in the freezer for 10 minutes before tapping in place. If you are quick between the freezer and the wheel it may go in very easily.
Last year I helped a freind change out his rear wheel bearings on an 1100 Honda Shadow Saber.
He was trying to go to Myrtle Beach but needed new tires.
We had to sledge hammer the rear axel out. There was a large gouge in the bearing spacer collar. We rat-tail filed that smooth and filed acouple of axel dinges smooth. The bearings did not roll smoothly under your finger so they needed to be replaced. We only had 2 more days to get him together for the trip with his freind.
Honda parts dealers would take 3 to 7 days to get the bearing and then ship to us at very high prices.
I found
www.bearingsdirect.com on the web.
They had both rear wheel bearings. One of the bearings is a double row ball bearing, but they had it.
