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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Im not much for fancy gimmicks, BUT...  (Read 1577 times)
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14783


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« on: March 26, 2010, 01:13:10 PM »

I finally broke down and tried one of those ratcheting box wrenches.  I bought just one, the 10mm to use on header nuts.  Wow, the internal "teeth" that do the ratcheting are fine enough on this thing (AutoZone Duralast) that it can ratchet in very small places...that was my concern and reason for not buying these before, I thought it would be little help in confined spaces like for the header nuts on our exhausts, but it does great.  It cuts the job of snugging them puppies up in half......nice tool, I will probably get more sizes now
« Last Edit: March 26, 2010, 01:26:30 PM by Chrisj CMA CR3M » Logged
3W-lonerider
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Posts: 1014

Shippensburg Pa


« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2010, 01:30:12 PM »

i have 2 sets of those..and when i reach for a wrench..thats the first wrench i reach for..BUT..do not use those wrenches if the affending nut or bolt is really tight..you will strip the locking mechanisim out of it. that changes the direction of the ratchet.
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14783


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2010, 01:46:17 PM »

i have 2 sets of those..and when i reach for a wrench..thats the first wrench i reach for..BUT..do not use those wrenches if the affending nut or bolt is really tight..you will strip the locking mechanisim out of it. that changes the direction of the ratchet.

Ya, I figured they were a light duty piece.  Thats why I decided to try it on the header nuts first. I figure it will be a handy way to get one of those pesky nuts wound down snug in a tight place that a big ratchet handle is clumsy then, if it needs a hefty torque Id just attach a socket for that final heave ho
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2010, 04:01:22 PM »

They are among my most used tools.  For a shade tree mechanic, they had full sets of Mastercraft brand (probably china) at Costco in metric and SAE for MUCH cheaper than craftsman on other name brands.  Never broke one yet.  10mm was a good choice for a singe wrench....
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Ratdog
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Somewhere out West, Which way did I go?


« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2010, 06:19:34 PM »

I've got stubbys and full length in metric and SAE.  Note:  I don't care for the ones that have a "switch", like a socket wrench handle does.  They can bind up.  Instead, I have the ones that you flip over to "reverse" direction.  No problems with those.
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Make yourselves sheep, and the wolves will eat you. - Benjamin Franklin. If it ain't Zesty, it's only a two-tone.
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14783


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2010, 07:08:30 PM »

I've got stubbys and full length in metric and SAE.  Note:  I don't care for the ones that have a "switch", like a socket wrench handle does.  They can bind up.  Instead, I have the ones that you flip over to "reverse" direction.  No problems with those.

Ya, thats true about the ones without the switch being more reliable but I need the angled head to be able to be used either way depending on the obstacles to the nut.  That requires the switch because the thing might only fit one way so you have to make it do what it needs to do (switch)
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3W-lonerider
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Posts: 1014

Shippensburg Pa


« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2010, 07:08:46 PM »

chris..you'll break a header stud before you strip one of those wrenches..the nuts and bolts i'm refering to would be like highway peg bolts that need to be extremely tight..or frame bolts that are corroded..sorta like the rear brake bolt that gets corroded in the frame..
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