rebuilding carbs.

[scoobydoo]

Ordered the o-ring kit from red-eye to rebuild the carbs. While I'm in there is there any other mods. that are worth doing while I have it apart?
Thinking about the desmog.
I don't really want to do it this time let alone redo it later to do something I didn't know about.
Thanks
Scoobydoo

[9Ball]

I'm assuming you bought the big o-ring kit.  What are you trying to fix with the rebuild?  Typically, all these carbs need is the jets cleaned (I prefer replacing), the pilot circuit cleaned and new o-rings on the pilot screws, and a thorough flushing of the float/bowls.  You can do this without breaking them apart from the bank assembly.

The kit you bought (again, an assumption) requires you to split the carbs from the bank.  Most times, unless there is some sort of gas leakage, this is unnecessary and a lot more work.

One item recommended for replacement are the bowl screws (either with the kit from redeyetech on ebay or hex head bolts from your local Ace hardware).  The stock screws are very soft and tend to weld themselves in place, thereby making them difficult to remove without buggering a few of them.

Good luck. ..

[scoobydoo]

I've had a hydolock about 3 or 4 times, fuel is leaking past the float seats on a couple carbs. Have rebuilt the petcock but now I'm going to replace it to get rid of the vacuum side. I have run several  cans of techron thru it already.

[9Ball]

well, sounds like you have one or more floats sticking and a bad petcock.  Replacing the petcock only fixes half the problem and you're right to remove and clean the carbs.  It is unlikely you need to do more than what I stated above.  If a float is bad, then that might need replacing.  I wouldn't recommend splitting the carbs from each other if you don't have to.  You can remove the slides, needles, bowls and jets to clean everything.  Again, from my experience you are way ahead if you replace the jets rather than trying to clean them.  A personal preferrance, but if you don't get them spotless, or score them while cleaning, then you will have to pull the carbs again.

Good luck....don't forget to order the bowl screws.

[Ricky-D]

The float bowl screws are special screws!

They are made to be soft so that if you strip the threads, it is the screw rather than the carburetor body that gets damaged.  The cost of screws are cheap. The carburetor body is expensive.

The biggest problem encountered with the screws are ill-fitting and worn screwdrivers, causing the stripping of the screw heads.

It could be an unwise decision to simply get a different screw to eliminate one problem thereby causing a potential greater and more expensive problem.

Greater attention to addressing the problem of getting the screws out is the answer.

Replace the screws that are damaged with new stock replacement screws is the best solution rather than reusing the damaged screws.

***

[ataDude #62]

Ordered the o-ring kit from red-eye to rebuild the carbs. While I'm in there is there any other mods. that are worth doing while I have it apart?
Thinking about the desmog.
I don't really want to do it this time let alone redo it later to do something I didn't know about.
Thanks
Scoobydoo

Hey, guys.  I've been around since this forum started but seldom post.  Here's my latest to clean the carbs.

FWIW... if they only need a good cleaning, I just finished with mine after it sat for quite a while... a way to clean without removing the carb platform... one at a time.  

1. Drain the carb by opening the drain screw (regular flat-blade screwdriver) which faces outward under the float bowl.

2. Remove the lower chrome runner (from carb to head).  Loosen the lower screw clamp (Phillips screwdriver) on the rubber and remove the two bolts (8mm socket) which hold the chrome runner to the head.

3. Remove the upper chrome cover, bellows,slide and needle (three Phillips-head screws).

4. Find a socket which has a 1 5/16" OD.  Cut off a corner of a sandwich bag to cover the socket... sealing it around and over the top.

5. Insert the covered socket (with the sandwich bag corner on top) into the rubber housing on the carb and tighten the screw clamp.

6. Use a syringe or turkey baster to fill the carb with carb cleaner.  I used the gallon can of stuff you can buy at any auto supply store.  

7. As the carb cleaner penetrates the jets and the float bowl, refill as needed to keep the cleaner level over the jet.  

8. Once full, let the carb sit for an hour or so, soaking.  You can move on to another if you have enough 1 5/16" OD sockets.

9. Drain the carb cleaner and reassemble.  Good to go... just like new!

As a side note, I did mine while on a jack with the bike sitting straight up.

[roboto65]

Use a syringe or turkey baster to fill the carb with carb cleaner.  I used the gallon can of stuff you can buy at any auto supply store.

The carb cleaner you get in a can be it a gal or 5 gal is know to Swell rubber I do not know weather I would be filling the carb up with it because of all the Orings and such.

[John U.]

The float bowl screws are JIS phillips (Japanese Industrial Standard), any Phillips screwdriver commonly available in this country will be "poorly fitting" when brand new. This link will show some options, or do a search. http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89
Having said all that, my advice is to replace the screws once you've gotten them out with your handy-dandy JIS screwdriver (don't worry it will come in handy on other PIA screws). Put some antisieze on the new ones and congratulate yourself with a cold (or warm) beverage. 

[Tropic traveler]

I just buttoned up a set of carbs earlier this evening. I used a set of the Redeye bowl screws. The OEM screws took a bit of a beating coming out, 89,000 mile- 2000 Valk, first time into.
The Redeye screws fit the screwdriver better than the OE's and have a slightly larger head too. I like the idea of hex head screws, but I hope this is a one & done deal!

[ataDude #62]

Use a syringe or turkey baster to fill the carb with carb cleaner.  I used the gallon can of stuff you can buy at any auto supply store.

The carb cleaner you get in a can be it a gal or 5 gal is know to Swell rubber I do not know weather I would be filling the carb up with it because of all the Orings and such.

Used the same stuff several years ago without adverse reactions.  To each, his own.  Thanks.

.

[fudgie]

Use a syringe or turkey baster to fill the carb with carb cleaner.  I used the gallon can of stuff you can buy at any auto supply store.

The carb cleaner you get in a can be it a gal or 5 gal is know to Swell rubber I do not know weather I would be filling the carb up with it because of all the Orings and such.

Use a syringe or turkey baster to fill the carb with carb cleaner.  I used the gallon can of stuff you can buy at any auto supply store.

The carb cleaner you get in a can be it a gal or 5 gal is know to Swell rubber I do not know weather I would be filling the carb up with it because of all the Orings and such.

Used the same stuff several years ago without adverse reactions.  To each, his own.  Thanks.

.

I would think carb cleaner would be good on carb o-rings. I have used it on many Rochester carbs and any other thing I have with a carb on it. Never a problem.

[fudgie]

Might as well set the pilots to 2 1/2 turns out while its out. Easier now then with the intakes back on it. I have a pilot tool if you need to borrow one. Let me know. Also might want to change to I/s carb springs. See doubletee's post down the way. Check yours to see what ones you have in them now.