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Author Topic: Front Brakes-What'd I do wrong?  (Read 1756 times)
Bald-dude
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« on: April 01, 2010, 05:14:17 PM »

I had the wheels on the fat lady off for new rubber and figured I'd change the pads.
Now on the left side I have friction noise without applying the brakes.
What'd I do wrong?
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Warlock
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Magnolia, Ms


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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2010, 05:27:26 PM »

I had the wheels on the fat lady off for new rubber and figured I'd change the pads.
Now on the left side I have friction noise without applying the brakes.
What'd I do wrong?
Sometimes the axle isn't in all the way. It should be flush on the left sid. If not it will rub on the calipers. Several has had this happen.
David
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ptgb
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Youngstown, OH


« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2010, 07:23:23 PM »

Me and a buddy just put my wheels back on after a tire change. Followed the proper way to mount the front wheel including seating the axle. Thought the left caliper bracket looked a bit close to the disc. It was; the first ride sounded like a grinder was being used on the front wheel.

Came home and took a look at things... it was the caliper bracket rubbing. Checked the Honda Service Manual and it says to make sure that there is at least 0.03" (7mm) between bracket and disc; mine wasn't. Problem was, the manual didn't say what to do if their wasn't proper clearance.

Checked my Clymer manual and it said if it didn't clear, to loosen the pinch bolts on the side that was rubbing and manually pull the fork away from the wheel. Sounded odd to me, but why not. As soon as I loosened the second pinch bolt I heard "TOINK" and the fork moved about an 1/8" to 1/4" on its own. Tightend the pinch bolts back up and no more rubbing.

Check your clearances... good luck.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2010, 07:32:09 PM by ptgb » Logged



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Valker
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2010, 08:30:11 PM »

The proper procedure for installing the front wheel is to not completely tighten the pinch bolts. Install the front axle all the way with the bolt that goes in the right side, then loosen that bolt. Put the bike on the ground, hold the front brake and 'pump' the front forks several times. Tighten the axle and then the pinch bolts.
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DFragn
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« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2010, 04:53:50 AM »

Yep, as was said.
It's your left lower fork tube.
I roll my bike and grab a handful of brakes several times to spring the left leg into position. There (generally) should be a gap between the fork tube and the speedo sensor.

Let the upper fork tube position the lower then secure the left pinch bolts first, torque the axle nut, then the right side pinch bolts. All be be good then...
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Wildman
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« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2010, 07:29:00 AM »

Jouncing the front end does not always get the left leg to slide to where it should be..
After torquing the axle pry the left leg out until it has the same spacing between the disc and rotor as the right side then tighten the pinch bolts. Jouning is a guess, setting it works.
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bigdog99
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« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2010, 07:52:47 AM »

had the same problem, when i took them off this winter found that i had slightly bent the spring loaded piece that holds pads straight. had to bend it back because it was rubbing the disc. i didnt even know i did it when i put them on, but you could see where it rubbed.
 crazy2
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DFragn
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2010, 03:44:24 PM »

Jouncing the front end does not always get the left leg to slide to where it should be..
After torquing the axle pry the left leg out until it has the same spacing between the disc and rotor as the right side then tighten the pinch bolts. Jouning is a guess, setting it works.

I don't see your point. How is bouncing a guess?
By letting the left upper fork tube come down multiple times (via compressing the forks) it self aligns the lower leg. You must compress the forks fully to be 100% effective. I'm too short & too light to bounce 'em from the seat. I roll the bike forward crisply while standing to the left side and grab the brakes. That has never ever failed me or created any problems once I learned to do it right.

Stick a screwdriver or what ever in there and prying out the lower leg is the guess! How are you gonna know the lower tube is aligned with the upper otherwise. By prying and guessing you stand a darn good chance of missing the mark and creating stiction between the upper & lower tubes. That will wear the guides, bushings and seals to a point where you'll not only experience potential handling issues, but you'll also create premature fork fluid leaks.

Let the left fork do the aligning...it knows where it needs to be.

Humbug to prying. There's your guess-work...
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Wildman
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2010, 04:54:16 PM »

When you jounce the front end it does not necessarily line the left leg up. so you have to take it as a fact that the leg went where it should. if you just set the spacing you know for sure that it's right.
It takes two seconds with a screwdriver to slide the lower leg to the right spacing. Why would you jounce it then go check it again. just set the distance. The manual is no good on this because it doesn't tell you what you are looking for just the method that does not always work.

I used to have this problem also. I grt tired of explaining the right way to do it. it should be in the shpo talk section.

The lower tube is set when it matches the right side the right side is set by the dimensions of the components and torquing the axle.

This is not rocket science. if your tubes don't line up when the distances are matched then something is bent.


Some front ends stick mine did that's why I had to learn this technique by inspection of the distances between the components of the front end to get mine to stop making noise.
I'm 6 foot tall and weigh 240 pounds and I can jounce the hell out of my front end. but that does not do the job.

Match the distance between the rotor and the caliper it's easier and fool proof.
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