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isaac
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« on: April 22, 2010, 09:08:21 AM » |
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I am riding a 1997 GL1500CT and has clocked 130000 miles. Clutch has been replaced.
Question : anyone know why there is rubbing noise when I pull the clutch lever all the way? ITs ok when the lever is about a finger away from the grips.
Anyone? Thanks!
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2010, 09:36:55 AM » |
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MIne has always done that when it gets really HOT......like bumper to bumper traffic in Daytona BEach FL. And as you say a finger away from the bars and no noise. Mine seems fine when its just normal operating temp. Overall it improved when I switched to sythetic oil, but it still does it a little
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RTaz
Member
Posts: 1319
Michigan...Home of InZane X -XI
Oscoda, Michigan
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« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2010, 11:55:51 AM » |
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My 97 was making a noise when you pull the grip in all the way...started about 1" from handle bar...started getting louder ...bike shifted okay but noise sounded like a bearing to me....well pull clutch apart...replaced the rivet band (which was okay) and replaced this bearing  ...put back together and noise was gone and has not come back yet (only about 300 miles on it) |
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 RTaz |
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DFragn
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« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2010, 12:10:38 PM » |
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Since the clutch has been done, do you know if the slave pin was inspected?
Early '97's were notorious for dry slave pins. Perhaps yours was one of them. Simple to check it with no need to crack the rear clutch cover. It's under the small slave cylinder bolted to the back center of the clutch case. If it's worn replace it. If it's only dry slather it up with Moly or High Temp Bearing grease or a mixture of the two.
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bentwrench
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2010, 05:32:59 PM » |
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My 98 tourer needed a dab of grease on the pin to shut it up.that was 30k ago and no niose.
bw
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fudgie
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Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2010, 07:54:54 PM » |
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Since the clutch has been done, do you know if the slave pin was inspected?
Early '97's were notorious for dry slave pins. Perhaps yours was one of them. Simple to check it with no need to crack the rear clutch cover. It's under the small slave cylinder bolted to the back center of the clutch case. If it's worn replace it. If it's only dry slather it up with Moly or High Temp Bearing grease or a mixture of the two.
so how is this done? I removed the 3 bolts but could not get it out? Hind sight, I assume you need to remove the clutch fluid? |
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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DFragn
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« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2010, 05:47:48 PM » |
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Since the clutch has been done, do you know if the slave pin was inspected?
Early '97's were notorious for dry slave pins. Perhaps yours was one of them. Simple to check it with no need to crack the rear clutch cover. It's under the small slave cylinder bolted to the back center of the clutch case. If it's worn replace it. If it's only dry slather it up with Moly or High Temp Bearing grease or a mixture of the two.
so how is this done? I removed the 3 bolts but could not get it out? Hind sight, I assume you need to remove the clutch fluid? No! No need to remove hydraulic fluid. But be careful no one squeezes the clutch lever while the slave cylinder is free. If the pin doesn't come out with the slave cylinder you should be able to grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers. |
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2010, 03:35:50 PM » |
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Since the clutch has been done, do you know if the slave pin was inspected?
Early '97's were notorious for dry slave pins. Perhaps yours was one of them. Simple to check it with no need to crack the rear clutch cover. It's under the small slave cylinder bolted to the back center of the clutch case. If it's worn replace it. If it's only dry slather it up with Moly or High Temp Bearing grease or a mixture of the two.
so how is this done? I removed the 3 bolts but could not get it out? Hind sight, I assume you need to remove the clutch fluid? No! No need to remove hydraulic fluid. But be careful no one squeezes the clutch lever while the slave cylinder is free. If the pin doesn't come out with the slave cylinder you should be able to grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers. I had the 3 bolts out put could not get it to budge. Otherwards couldn't get the cover off. |
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Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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DFragn
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« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2010, 03:52:31 PM » |
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Since the clutch has been done, do you know if the slave pin was inspected?
Early '97's were notorious for dry slave pins. Perhaps yours was one of them. Simple to check it with no need to crack the rear clutch cover. It's under the small slave cylinder bolted to the back center of the clutch case. If it's worn replace it. If it's only dry slather it up with Moly or High Temp Bearing grease or a mixture of the two.
so how is this done? I removed the 3 bolts but could not get it out? Hind sight, I assume you need to remove the clutch fluid? No! No need to remove hydraulic fluid. But be careful no one squeezes the clutch lever while the slave cylinder is free. If the pin doesn't come out with the slave cylinder you should be able to grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers. I had the 3 bolts out put could not get it to budge. Otherwards couldn't get the cover off. Maybe lightly tapping it with a rubber mallet - NOT a dead-blow mallet...   Should come right off. It will be some what rigid due to the hydraulic line, but flexible enough to move it out of the way a bit to grab the slave pin either from inside the slave cylinder or from the clutch case cover for inspection and lubing if needed. |
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isaac
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« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2010, 02:04:51 PM » |
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I just got my clutch looked as and changed the ones with rivets. Still the same ... the clutch lever sometimes cannot be pulled all the way. It stops about 1/2 inch away from the grips. The clacking sound comes on most of the time when cluth is pulled all the way. My mech suspects the clutch fork. Anyone experience this before?
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daytona
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« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2010, 04:02:24 PM » |
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I just got my clutch looked as and changed the ones with rivets. Still the same ... the clutch lever sometimes cannot be pulled all the way. It stops about 1/2 inch away from the grips. The clacking sound comes on most of the time when cluth is pulled all the way. My mech suspects the clutch fork. Anyone experience this before?
Clutch fork???? Does the clutch work smoothly otherwise? clackin only when it can't be pulled all the way? If you can get it to jam! open the bleeder to make sure the problem isn't in the master, if lever pulles all the way, sounds like you have plate grooves in the basket to me! Providing the clutch is assembled correctly. |
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Just started!  |
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isaac
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« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2010, 09:32:14 AM » |
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Hi Daytona,
Thanks for your reply.The clutch works fine. The clacking(like grinding sound) only happens when its hot and the clutch lever pulled all the way till it touches the grip. If its about 1/2 inch away, there is no sound. At times, the level can only go about 1/2 inch from the grip. It will not be able to go all the way.
Anyone experience this?
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