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Author Topic: Rear rotor rubbing on caliper mount  (Read 2455 times)
scooter
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Posts: 24


Minnesota


« on: April 23, 2010, 08:49:02 PM »

I just replaced my rear bearings and now the rotor rubbs on the inside of the caliper mount so it is rubbing the right side of the rotor.  By looking at the plastic ring on the final drive I can tell the wheel sits into the final drive about an 1/8" more than it used to.  Does anyone know what might have happened.
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97 Valkyrie standard
roboto65
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Conroe,TX


« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2010, 09:01:51 PM »

Did you forget to put the spacer back in when you replaced the bearings?
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Allen Rugg                                                       
VRCC #30806
1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate
1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project
scooter
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Posts: 24


Minnesota


« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2010, 09:07:04 PM »

I remembered to put the spacer in.
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97 Valkyrie standard
DFragn
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« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2010, 09:26:15 PM »

Did you remove the retaining plate for the wheel dampeners. If so, maybe it's not seated properly & pushing the Star Drive splines unit out a bit.

Is the left wheel spacer seated against the left bearing [into the dust seal] where it should be or is it hub -> caliper - > spacer ->swing arm. [I don't even know if that's possible!] Or is the spacer's broad-end against the dust seal?

Are your bearings seated completely? If not, proper axle torque may not be enough to "final" seat the bearings.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2010, 09:32:05 PM by DFragn » Logged
sandy
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Posts: 5389


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2010, 07:16:39 AM »

Maybe a lost thrust washer when replacing the wheel??
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2010, 09:11:18 AM »

I just replaced my rear bearings and now the rotor rubbs on the inside of the caliper mount so it is rubbing the right side of the rotor.  By looking at the plastic ring on the final drive I can tell the wheel sits into the final drive about an 1/8" more than it used to.  Does anyone know what might have happened.

There is very little that will affect where the wheel is running in relation to the final drive unit.

I don't think you can use the dust cover to make a decision about the location of the wheel.

First thing is to assure the rear brake caliper bracket is positioned properly and the axle is properly torqued.   

Now all this is predicated upon the assumption that you have not changed the brake rotor
. If you have changed the brake rotor all bets are off. You've most likely are using the incorrect rotor for your model.

Now with that being said, the only possibility for the wheel to be incorrectly positioned is a faulty process when changing the wheel bearings.  The wheel bearings are the one and only parts that affect where the wheel will be located.

You say you definitely placed the internal bearing spacer. So the only other possibility are the bearings.

It could be you replaced the bearings with improper replacements or that you failed to properly seat the bearing races in the wheel hub. Or maybe you switched the bearings and installed them in the wrong side of the wheel.

I kinda think you did not seat the bearings properly in the wheel. Torquing the axle could have damaged the bearing if they are not seated properly. Just saying.

Anything related to the drive flange, like the thrust washer, actually has no bearing upon this problem you are having.
Likewise the spacer on the brake side of the wheel can only fit on one way since it is also the seal runner and has to fit inside the seal.

I would suggest taking the wheel off and going over your bearing replacement effort.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
DFragn
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« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2010, 09:20:35 AM »

I just replaced my rear bearings and now the rotor rubbs on the inside of the caliper mount so it is rubbing the right side of the rotor.  By looking at the plastic ring on the final drive I can tell the wheel sits into the final drive about an 1/8" more than it used to.  Does anyone know what might have happened.

I kinda think you did not seat the bearings properly in the wheel. Torquing the axle could have damaged the bearing if they are not seated properly. Just saying.


Are your bearings seated completely? If not, proper axle torque may not be enough to "final" seat the bearings.

Note: My axle torque comment wasn't intended to imply that it would be a good idea to seat wheel bearings via axle torque or over torquing & backing off. It most certainly is not...
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scooter
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Posts: 24


Minnesota


« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2010, 09:45:04 AM »

Is there anything that keeps the splined end of the flange from going into the final drive to far?  Could anything wrong in the final drive area?
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97 Valkyrie standard
DFragn
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« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2010, 09:51:09 AM »

Is there anything that keeps the splined end of the flange from going into the final drive to far?  Could anything wrong in the final drive area?

Scooter, the star flange will only seat so far.

You seem to definitely have something going on. You've got no choice but to pull the wheel again check everything & reinstall. My bet is you'll spot the problem quickly. Look everything over succinctly.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2010, 10:23:47 AM »

Sometimes you dont notice things until you work on a part, then you notice and dont remember it was always like that.  Kinda like the guys that see that ring(line) on the hub of the rear wheel and didnt remember it was exposed before they started, but now they are convinced the wheel is not in the final drive all the way.  The rear brake usually makes a slight scraping sound when you roll the bike.  Mine has ever since I first had it. almosts new, 113,000 miles, its never been a problem.  Im talking slight, and its not noticable when riding at all, never......but especially when I back the bike into its parking spot, I usually hear a faint scraping sound as she rolls in.  Could this be just a normal thing you never noticed before?
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #10 on: April 24, 2010, 01:35:37 PM »

Quote
Note: My axle torque comment wasn't intended to imply that it would be a good idea to seat wheel bearings via axle torque or over torquing & backing off. It most certainly is not...


I wasn't trying to infer anything like that.  You're correct (and I agree), that is not a good way to seat any bearings.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
daytona
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Port Orange, FL


« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2010, 02:59:29 PM »

Isn't there two diff brgs? one double row and a single, same O.D./I.D.
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Disco
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Republic of Texas


« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2010, 05:13:16 AM »

Quote
Isn't there two diff brgs? one double row and a single, same O.D./I.D.

Yes, the two rear bearings, 5204 & 6204, have the same 20mm ID and 47mm OD.  The difference is their width.  5204 is 20.6mm wide and 6204 is 14mm wide.
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daytona
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Posts: 209


Port Orange, FL


« Reply #13 on: April 25, 2010, 05:39:19 AM »

Quote
Isn't there two diff brgs? one double row and a single, same O.D./I.D.

Yes, the two rear bearings, 5204 & 6204, have the same 20mm ID and 47mm OD.  The difference is their width.  5204 is 20.6mm wide and 6204 is 14mm wide.
Na!!! he couldn't have done a swap around could he!
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #14 on: April 25, 2010, 08:56:32 AM »

Quote
Isn't there two diff brgs? one double row and a single, same O.D./I.D.

Yes, the two rear bearings, 5204 & 6204, have the same 20mm ID and 47mm OD.  The difference is their width.  5204 is 20.6mm wide and 6204 is 14mm wide.
Na!!! he couldn't have done a swap around could he!
easy enough to check.  I dont think you could get the dust seal set, with the fatter bearing in the left side, if you could get it in I would think it wouldnt go in all the way....also it would have been VERY VERY hard to get the parts all in because the little spacer thinggy that goes between the wheel bearing and the caliper plate would need to be shortenend to make up for the fatter bearing
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scooter
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Minnesota


« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2010, 05:49:37 PM »

THANK YOU to everyone that helped me.  Today I took it all apart, removed the flange, inspected the bearings and thrust washer.  Everything looked as it should.  Put it back together and now I have one millimeter gap inbetween the rotor and the caliper bracket.  It obviously doesn't rub anymore, but it still doesn't seem like much of a gap.  Inbetween the other side of the rotor and the bracket there is 2-3 millimeters space.  That's probably the way it was and I didn't realize it.  Atleast it doesn't grind anymore.
Thanks again to everyone.  I really appreciate it!!!    cooldude
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97 Valkyrie standard
DFragn
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« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2010, 07:32:58 PM »

Quote
Note: My axle torque comment wasn't intended to imply that it would be a good idea to seat wheel bearings via axle torque or over torquing & backing off. It most certainly is not...


I wasn't trying to infer anything like that.  You're correct (and I agree), that is not a good way to seat any bearings.

***

Oh no, nothing like that.
I simply realized my comment could potentially be misinterpreted.
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DFragn
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« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2010, 07:35:07 PM »

THANK YOU to everyone that helped me.  Today I took it all apart, removed the flange, inspected the bearings and thrust washer.  Everything looked as it should.  Put it back together and now I have one millimeter gap inbetween the rotor and the caliper bracket.  It obviously doesn't rub anymore, but it still doesn't seem like much of a gap.  Inbetween the other side of the rotor and the bracket there is 2-3 millimeters space.  That's probably the way it was and I didn't realize it.  Atleast it doesn't grind anymore.
Thanks again to everyone.  I really appreciate it!!!    cooldude

Good deal.  cooldude
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