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bill v e
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« on: April 24, 2010, 06:36:05 AM » |
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2000 interstate w over 145,000 and just had brake fluid chngd and replaced pads oem. no air in lines, but brakes are still very mushy. have to pull lever all the way in to get normal results. replacing brake lines was recommended. after 145,000 miles i'm thinking i should just get standard oem brake lines. i mean, do you think it would be worth the extra bucks to get stainless steel lines after the originals gave 145k? inviting all opinions here. tia
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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DFragn
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2010, 06:44:51 AM » |
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Me? I'd probably stick with OEM because they've done well so far (80k) and they're practically invisible with my setup. Ah, but then again S.S. provides a better feel. That would be nice  |
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sandy
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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2010, 07:10:55 AM » |
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How did you bleed them? If you used a vacuum brake bleeder, then all the air should be out. But if you squeezed the lever to bleed you might still have air. Sometimes air can get trapped at the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. After covering the bike, break open the banjo bolt with pressure on the lever. I changed to Galfer lines on the front and I'm happy with the feel and knowing they'll last a long time. The MityVac is a hamd held vacuum bleeder that works quite well.
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2010, 09:06:33 AM » |
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Use something to keep the brake lever squeezed and leave it overnight. This willallow the air to move up the lines into the master cylinder. In the morning bleed normally.
Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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Robert
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« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2010, 04:01:31 PM » |
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IF you didn't drive the bike after you replaced the pads I would try that first. Then if that doesn't work re bleed the system. The pads need a few miles to fit into the grooves on the rotors and will not give a good feel at first.
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2010, 04:58:06 PM » |
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tie the lever down overnight, this will give the air a way to move to the reservoir.
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bill v e
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« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2010, 08:17:30 PM » |
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so if i leave the brake lever squeezed in all night, will i just be opening up the bleeders in the morning till all the air is out and i get some fluid?
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2000 i/s 207k/jun 14
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2010, 10:02:13 PM » |
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The brake lever squeezed all night will allow the air to move up the lines into the master cylinder. You will still need to bleed it normally. When you go to bleed the system, make sure you top it off first then keep it full. If you don't, you'll start again from scratch.
Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers. |
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1fastbob
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« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2010, 04:41:56 AM » |
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I'd stay with the stock brake lines. After all they lasted 145,000 miles!
Bob
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I'm on somebody's list! BFD!
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Kymbo
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« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2010, 05:03:06 AM » |
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If you fell there may still be air in the lines ,try using a large syringe with some clear hose attached to the bleed nipple, open the nipple and draw the fluid through .I find this more successful than using the brake lever to pump it through
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daytona
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« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2010, 05:31:31 AM » |
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Squeezed lever blocks fluid from replacing air in the line/slave! leave the lever in the normal position with B fluid over full, for a few hrs! Opening the bleeder on slave until clean fluid flow's will aid the bleed process. Want to bleed any faster get a mighty Vac.
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« Last Edit: April 25, 2010, 05:35:28 AM by daytona »
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Just started!  |
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matt
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« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2010, 03:33:32 PM » |
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had same issue with fronts found sticking piston rebuilt caliper,bleed system feels great.I was not impressed with rears after doing front removed caliper stepped on pedal same issue one piston moved.I then rebuilt rear caliper I bought bike used and never has rear brake worked so good
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vanagon40
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« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2010, 07:49:58 PM » |
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This problem is the exact reason why I would never replace the brake pads and fluid at the same time. When I had to replace my front pads, I changed the pads and then changed the brake fluid two weeks later. That way, if you experience problems, you have a much better idea where the problem is coming from.
bill v e: I would make sure everything is in order prior to replacing the brake lines. Is it possible that the brakes are mushy because you are still waiting for the pads to wear into the rotors? Are the rotors perfectly smooth? If not, it may take some time for the brakes to wear in.
Does pumping the brakes improve performance? If so, maybe air in the lines or again, possibly the pads have not mated to the rotors.
I have a very hard time believing that your brake lines, which have worked fine for 145,000 miles, coincidentally became defective at the same time you replaced your brakes and fluid. That said, maybe I am I am making an incorrect assumption that your brakes worked find before replacing the pads and fluid.
I have no experience with a motorcycle with over 145,000 miles, but I have A LOT of experience with cars with over that many miles, and rarely (almost never) have I had failures of the flexible brake lines.
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« Last Edit: April 25, 2010, 07:51:46 PM by vanagon40 »
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JetDriver
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« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2010, 02:12:25 PM » |
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The brake lever squeezed all night will allow the air to move up the lines into the master cylinder. You will still need to bleed it normally. When you go to bleed the system, make sure you top it off first then keep it full. If you don't, you'll start again from scratch.
Marty
+1 I use a long zip tie and pull the front brake lever as far as it will go and zip-tie it and leave it over night. I wedge a 2x4 on top of the rear brake lever to full compression and leave it over night. Works good. I've never had to bleed it after that, but if it's still mushy, I'd do what Marty said, then repeat squeezing the levers over night. |
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