valve clatter or what?

[Sandy S.]

Hi everyone I need some help. Its been less than 100 miles since I did some maintenance on the
valk. She has had an oil change, valve adjustment, desmog, coolant change, brake and clutch fluid
changed and I thought she was good to go. Oh also she is a 98 standard with 51,000 miles. This morning I rode for 26 miles thru the countryside and went back to meet up with my brother (Valk rider also) so we could go for a ride. We didn't get 3 miles from town and I heard a clatter coming from the
right side of the cycle. We pulled over and I could hear a clatter that would start when the engine got over 1800 rpm. I went back to the house and on the way the engine would clatter if I accelerated much as all. I could pick up speed slowly and would get little to no noise, also no noise if accelerating
and then pulling in the clutch. Once in the garage I took off the valve cover and checked valve clearances and all were as they should be. I took off the timing belt cover and did not see any problem there. The clatter gets more pronounced as I accelerate and it decreases during deceleration but is
still there. What else should I check? It has been running great. Any help is greatly appreciated.
   

[daytona]

Exh leak!

[sandy]

I agree with the exhaust leak Idea. BUT: Do you feel any vibration with the clatter? If so, check your U joint.

[Earl in Pensacola]

When checking the exhaust nuts for torque, be sure to be very careful about bringing them down "a little at a time" eveningly, untill they are all at spec.!!!!

[Ricky-D]

Sounds to me as if there is a bad valve adjustment on one valve.

***

[Sandy S.]

I rechecked my valve adjustment and all were spot on. There is no vibration either. I will try checking
for the exhaust leak and hope that's my problem. Thanks for the responses and I appreciate any other
ideas.

[Misfit]

Your valves need to be adjusted on a stone cold motor. If you checked them just after pulling into the garage I would check them again.

[R J]

Your valves need to be adjusted on a stone cold motor. If you checked them just after pulling into the garage I would check them again.

10-04 on stone cold...........

[V-SIX DS#121]

I hope this is not your problem, but did you mess with the timing belts?  If so its out of time. Only one tooth on one gear will warp a valve, I know from personal experience.  Good Luck

[bentwrench]

Mine did that shortly after a de-smog.one of the air pipe ends that I plugged was rattling against
the frt. left engine gaurd.It would only do under accel. it was silent at idle and light accel.It
seems I missed when I tightened the little tab that holds it in the cyl. head.At first I really thought I killed my engine
bw

[98valk]

per the service manual stone cold is below 35C, 95F.  There was a member on the old board named Vger who did a lot of dyno work and had stated that valves should be adjusted with the engine temp btwn 80-95F. He is also the one from his dyno work recommended the .001 over on both measurements. Web searches will shown that for most engines that require valve adjustments stone-cold actually means 80-100F.

[Misfit]

per the service manual stone cold is below 35C, 95F.  There was a member on the old board named Vger who did a lot of dyno work and had stated that valves should be adjusted with the engine temp btwn 80-95F. He is also the one from his dyno work recommended the .001 over on both measurements. Web searches will shown that for most engines that require valve adjustments stone-cold actually means 80-100F.

I did not mean that you have to put it in a deep freeze or only adjust valves in the winter. i meant adjust on a room temp motor. In his post he said he was out riding and pulled into the garage and checked his clearence. That would put his engine temp at closer to 180. Sorry for the confusion.

[Sandy S.]

Thanks guys. It was an exhaust leak. And I did check my valve clearances with the engine cooled off.
It ended up being one of my plugs from the desmog. As always thanks for your help.