New generation MagnaCharger supercharger issues.

[fstsix]

Hi. finally put the supercharger back on . I think I am now the record holder for the four bolts. about 30 minutes. So far no leak. I had decided not to mess with a bigger filter until I was sure my blower didn't leak oil.  Run fairly well, hard to warm up but idles decently. my problem and question now is:
if I accelerate moderately no problem , good response. However if I give the throttle a hard twist it will speed up and then stall. Sometimes will then stutter and catch. I at first thought about rev limit but this happens below 5000 rpm. What is the rev limit BTW. I wonder if this is a function of the smaller filter. as I mentioned I have one that went on My raider big air kit that is larger. any thoughts. I have not done anything with the needles. and my screw is 2.5 turns out. I am going to run it for a while and then read the plugs. I may turn to you guys for help if i can become competent at taking and posting pics. At least I am learning a lot about the bike. Thanks.

Ron

Ron that hesitation is that dam slow jet see if it has a #25...put a #27.5 in it, before you do this just remove your Air filter and see what happens, should be fine for a day or three.BTW your factory rev limiter is set @ around 7000 rpm, you are gonna need to locate a Dyna 3000 for the timing retard.

[fstsix]

Greg, I put the clip on the third groove as it originally came on the Magna needle.  From what I understand about the needles, the 45mm and 48mm needles are the same. The 42mm needle taper is lower down the shaft closer to the tip. Now far as the jets they use the same jets for the 42mm and the 45mm, don't recall if they work in the 48mm.

I am wondering what effect the snorkle type air filter would have on the setup.

Dan

Dan give a ride around the block W/O the air filter, just to know that it is not a factor, but i am curious buy reinstalling the Magna needle you may now be on the rich side, that air filter setup should be fine with that large filter. what # do you have your Dyna set at ? I think i am about 3 turns out on the air screw almost too rich but smooth as silk at all throttle position. when you get it dialed you stab it you better be hanging on!!  again spark plug check needed.

[rdunbar123]

Hi. finally put the supercharger back on . I think I am now the record holder for the four bolts. about 30 minutes. So far no leak. I had decided not to mess with a bigger filter until I was sure my blower didn't leak oil.  Run fairly well, hard to warm up but idles decently. my problem and question now is:
if I accelerate moderately no problem , good response. However if I give the throttle a hard twist it will speed up and then stall. Sometimes will then stutter and catch. I at first thought about rev limit but this happens below 5000 rpm. What is the rev limit BTW. I wonder if this is a function of the smaller filter. as I mentioned I have one that went on My raider big air kit that is larger. any thoughts. I have not done anything with the needles. and my screw is 2.5 turns out. I am going to run it for a while and then read the plugs. I may turn to you guys for help if i can become competent at taking and posting pics. At least I am learning a lot about the bike. Thanks.

Ron

Ron that hesitation is that dam slow jet see if it has a #25...put a #27.5 in it, before you do this just remove your Air filter and see what happens, should be fine for a day or three.BTW your factory rev limiter is set @ around 7000 rpm, you are gonna need to locate a Dyna 3000 for the timing retard.

Dan since I am spending a lot of money anyway I have taken the approach of adding a real octane booster to each ttank of gas. I adds about a dollar a gallon but what the hell. I am looking for a dyana 3000 but no luck so far.

[dreamaker]

Greg, Well I checked the plugs and if I would take pics. you would think they were the same pics. as before. They look the same . The setting on the Dyna is set at 4 and at 4deg, retard. I did notice that when it is cold it wants to stall. If I wasn't brain dead I guess I would use the choke like normal people do. When it idles, it is a head turner, it sounds kind of hairy. Going to have to get ambitious so I can pull the tank to take off the filter.

Dan

[fstsix]

What are you guys running for Petcock shut off valves ?

[dreamaker]

I am using the stock petcock but it is rebuilt and tested.

Dan

[fstsix]

I am using the stock petcock but it is rebuilt and tested.

Dan

Get a Pingel or modify that stock to manual, I run a manual Stock shutoff.

[Murdoc]

This is a wealth of knowledge!  OK, I'm going to start off with the 27.5 slow jet and see how she runs, if I can find one.  I am having exactly the same symptoms as Rdunbar where it sputters/misses after a second at WOTand then catches back up when I let off the gas.   I did try removing my own custom filter and running it without a filter to rule that out.  No diff ....

I am using the Pingel external chopper petcock and dual nipple direct output from the tank.  It sure flows the gas when I don't have it hooked up to the carb...   I assume it is filling the bowl easily, but I'm not 100% sure, but I would say I could drain my tank in less than 2 minutes if I just output to a gas can.  Don't ask how I know..   

I also am running a Dyna that I picked up new a couple of years ago in preparation for this adventure, but at what I recall from Jeff K's suggestions, it is on setting 2 with a hobbs switch grounding to the white wire.  I noticed one of you was running the Dyna on setting 4?  What do you all recommend?

I wonder if we move the notch down to the lowest (richest) setting if that would make a difference on the stock 97 magna needle?

[fstsix]

Greg, Well I checked the plugs and if I would take pics. you would think they were the same pics. as before. They look the same . The setting on the Dyna is set at 4 and at 4deg, retard. I did notice that when it is cold it wants to stall. If I wasn't brain dead I guess I would use the choke like normal people do. When it idles, it is a head turner, it sounds kind of hairy. Going to have to get ambitious so I can pull the tank to take off the filter.

Dan

The morning start up, I always use the enricher choke, it will stall also without it in the morning, 'a must use' it will bring the idle up to 2000 rpms without stalling, i don't do long warm ups, about a minute and get on the street and go, at that point i turn the choke off.

[fstsix]

This is a wealth of knowledge!  OK, I'm going to start off with the 27.5 slow jet and see how she runs, if I can find one.  I am having exactly the same symptoms as Rdunbar where it sputters/misses after a second at WOTand then catches back up when I let off the gas.   I did try removing my own custom filter and running it without a filter to rule that out.  No diff ....

I am using the Pingel external chopper petcock and dual nipple direct output from the tank.  It sure flows the gas when I don't have it hooked up to the carb...   I assume it is filling the bowl easily, but I'm not 100% sure, but I would say I could drain my tank in less than 2 minutes if I just output to a gas can.  Don't ask how I know..   

I also am running a Dyna that I picked up new a couple of years ago in preparation for this adventure, but at what I recall from Jeff K's suggestions, it is on setting 2 with a hobbs switch grounding to the white wire.  I noticed one of you was running the Dyna on setting 4?  What do you all recommend?

I wonder if we move the notch down to the lowest (richest) setting if that would make a difference on the stock 97 magna needle?

Start with only the #27.5 slow, Do Not mess with needle until after you try the jet first .....i had a coffee can full of dead spark plugs BLACK  but if  the slow jet dose not help, only try 1 notch at a time on your needle...these things are touchy. i run the Dyna on 5 did have it on 3 from the start, just cruising not much boost, got the 4 lb hobbs switch and until you start boosting you can just offset with your retard selector. got 36 MPG this weekend on the way back from laconia bike week, did not hear any marbles at all and i was jamming down the Hwy, 410 mile trip Friday. i hammer this thing every time it goes on the road.

[Jeff K]

I played with the the Dyna setting on a dyno. We saw no real increase in power with any of the advance curves beyond setting #2. #2 is the stock curve with the "emissions dip" removed. As we went up in the range of curves we actually saw a slight drop in HP. And I have broken enough pistons, so I opt for safety in timing. I set the retard to come in at 2# of boost, with an adjustable Hobbs switch. Yes I too have a can full of used spark plugs, but I also have a box full of broken pistons.
Also, invest in a spark plug cleaner... saves a pile of money. 

[fstsix]

I am using the stock petcock but it is rebuilt and tested.

Dan

Dan, Put a vacuum gauge on that port where you have your petcock Vacuum hose hooked up to,..with your motor already warmed up use a temporary gas tank and start the motor, see what the gauge does when you snap the throttle, if it goes to 0 on the gauge that may be shutting off your petcock. I did not trust that thing, and before i leaned out and started breaking parts i did the vacuum delete , i didn't want a $.50 cent diaphragm causing a meltdown.

[fstsix]

I played with the the Dyna setting on a dyno. We saw no real increase in power with any of the advance curves beyond setting #2. #2 is the stock curve with the "emissions dip" removed. As we went up in the range of curves we actually saw a slight drop in HP. And I have broken enough pistons, so I opt for safety in timing. I set the retard to come in at 2# of boost, with an adjustable Hobbs switch. Yes I too have a can full of used spark plugs, but I also have a box full of broken pistons.
Also, invest in a spark plug cleaner... saves a pile of money. 

Jeff, were you cruising or on it hard when it let go, I have had the Mikuni on the Blower from just about day 1, 7 years now and i friggin hammer this thing, now my Oil temp never goes over 200* and i am on the rich side, but...by all means this thing should be in pieces LOL! kinda wish it would fall apart so i can do the head work that i want to do along with Flat top forged pistons, this may sound odd but i have tried to break it, Kinda impressed not a tick or a tap from even the valve train? i guess i am just lucky....sure have had some fun...i would not hesitate to load my T bag and head across the country back home to see Mom at any moment. Have not even had the gas tank off in three years 

[dreamaker]

I am using the stock petcock but it is rebuilt and tested.

Dan

Dan, Put a vacuum gauge on that port where you have your petcock Vacuum hose hooked up to,..with your motor already warmed up use a temporary gas tank and start the motor, see what the gauge does when you snap the throttle, if it goes to 0 on the gauge that may be shutting off your petcock. I did not trust that thing, and before i leaned out and started breaking parts i did the vacuum delete , i didn't want a $.50 cent diaphragm causing a meltdown.

Wow, I didn't consider that scenario with the diaphragm it makes allot of sense. Do you know the member that makes that plate conversion for stock petcock. Also do you know the part number for the Pingle, just in case.

Dan

[Murdoc]

I played with the the Dyna setting on a dyno. We saw no real increase in power with any of the advance curves beyond setting #2. #2 is the stock curve with the "emissions dip" removed. As we went up in the range of curves we actually saw a slight drop in HP. And I have broken enough pistons, so I opt for safety in timing. I set the retard to come in at 2# of boost, with an adjustable Hobbs switch. Yes I too have a can full of used spark plugs, but I also have a box full of broken pistons.
Also, invest in a spark plug cleaner... saves a pile of money.  

I picked up an adjustable Hobbs and I think it is set at 3# by default, but am not sure what to use to set it.  I assume you could use some type of low pressure / manual rig?  What do you recommend?  I'm probably over-thinking this as usual..

Went to my local Harley shop and amazingly enough, they had a 27.5 slow in stock.  Gonna put that on this evening and see how she does.

[fstsix]

I am using the stock petcock but it is rebuilt and tested.

Dan

Dan, Put a vacuum gauge on that port where you have your petcock Vacuum hose hooked up to,..with your motor already warmed up use a temporary gas tank and start the motor, see what the gauge does when you snap the throttle, if it goes to 0 on the gauge that may be shutting off your petcock. I did not trust that thing, and before i leaned out and started breaking parts i did the vacuum delete , i didn't want a $.50 cent diaphragm causing a meltdown.

Wow, I didn't consider that scenario with the diaphragm it makes allot of sense. Do you know the member that makes that plate conversion for stock petcock. Also do you know the part number for the Pingle, just in case.

Dan

Here is a link.. if you don't want to use that rubber hose just JB weld those nipples...http://daughertymotorsports.com/howto/tankvalve/tankvalve.html

[Jeff K]

I played with the the Dyna setting on a dyno. We saw no real increase in power with any of the advance curves beyond setting #2. #2 is the stock curve with the "emissions dip" removed. As we went up in the range of curves we actually saw a slight drop in HP. And I have broken enough pistons, so I opt for safety in timing. I set the retard to come in at 2# of boost, with an adjustable Hobbs switch. Yes I too have a can full of used spark plugs, but I also have a box full of broken pistons.
Also, invest in a spark plug cleaner... saves a pile of money. 

Jeff, were you cruising or on it hard when it let go, I have had the Mikuni on the Blower from just about day 1, 7 years now and i friggin hammer this thing, now my Oil temp never goes over 200* and i am on the rich side, but...by all means this thing should be in pieces LOL! kinda wish it would fall apart so i can do the head work that i want to do along with Flat top forged pistons, this may sound odd but i have tried to break it, Kinda impressed not a tick or a tap from even the valve train? i guess i am just lucky....sure have had some fun...i would not hesitate to load my T bag and head across the country back home to see Mom at any moment. Have not even had the gas tank off in three years 

It wasn't a "big bang" moment. It was a "why is there oil on the back of my motor?" moment. It then progressed to a "Hmm? there is smoke coming out of my breather?". I put thousands of miles on the bike with broken pistons, it made a mess but the bike still ran fine.
PIBIT put a lot of miles on his before it broke, Andre did too, But then again TJ popped his in short order. I think it was a lean condition that caused it. I think the old carb/pump/regulator setup was prone to going lean. I put different pumps and regulators on the bike I've worked on since then and have not seen any failures since. I also had timing issues, i installed my kit before Dyna made their unit. In fact I did a lot of "testing" for Dyna. They sent me units and asked me to evaluate them. I still have a few older versions laying around. So I'd say mine was self inflicted.

[rdunbar123]

Another question. have any of you guys used the morgan colourtune to adjust the carbs? sounds like a good idea and not real expensive. wonder if it works. Have ordered new pilot jet for mine just incase.

[dreamaker]

Kind of interesting I have one sitting in my tool box, have to check it out. Also Murdoc got his jet from a Harley dealer I guess they had it in stock.

Dan

[rdunbar123]

Just wondering, when it feels like I'm cutting out at hard acceleration, could my blower belt be slipping and how would I figure this out. would making match marks on the  pulleys and belts show anything"?  I don't hear any squealing.

[dreamaker]

I had a similar situation and I believe when I switch to 27.5 slow jet , I haven't had the problem.

Dan

[Jeff K]

Just wondering, when it feels like I'm cutting out at hard acceleration, could my blower belt be slipping and how would I figure this out. would making match marks on the  pulleys and belts show anything"?  I don't hear any squealing.

Match marks won't work, put a boost gauge on it and watch the boost. Don't buy a gauge for a turbo though they go too high and resolution on the scale is small. I use a 15 pound boost / vacuum gauge

[dreamaker]

Has anyone used the Iridium plugs with a supercharger. I have some in my spark plug box, was thinking about cleaning them and using them. The really don't have any miles on them.

Dan

[rdunbar123]

Just wondering, when it feels like I'm cutting out at hard acceleration, could my blower belt be slipping and how would I figure this out. would making match marks on the  pulleys and belts show anything"?  I don't hear any squealing.

Match marks won't work, put a boost gauge on it and watch the boost. Don't buy a gauge for a turbo though they go too high and resolution on the scale is small. I use a 15 pound boost / vacuum gauge

Stupid question, but where to attach the boost guage?

[dreamaker]

I don't know how your intake is but mine has the, I guess you call it the   J-tube extension on the back of the manifold is taken off of mine. So what I did is drill and tap two holes for 1/8" pipe or I guess you could drill one and run a "T" .  On the back of the manifold where the extension was. Also it is not a dumb question.

P.S. If you find a Dyna you will need the hole for a pressure switch to screw in to . From the Dyna there is a wire that sticks out that plugs in to the Pressure switch that retards the ignition when the boost kicks in.

Dan

[Murdoc]

Just wondering, when it feels like I'm cutting out at hard acceleration, could my blower belt be slipping and how would I figure this out. would making match marks on the  pulleys and belts show anything"?  I don't hear any squealing.

Match marks won't work, put a boost gauge on it and watch the boost. Don't buy a gauge for a turbo though they go too high and resolution on the scale is small. I use a 15 pound boost / vacuum gauge

Stupid question, but where to attach the boost guage?

I haven't hooked one up yet (not sure if I'm going to) but if I do, I plan to T off where I hooked up my hobbs switch.  I drilled a hole in the back of the manifold for the hobbs switch and ran an extension up underneath the tank to it so it would be out of the way.

[rdunbar123]

Thanks,
Just wondered if I was missing something obvious. no problem drilling a hole. Big problem finding a dyna 3000. I am considering buying an older higher milage valk if I can find one on the condition it has a dyna 3000. I've tried junk yards. no response. if anyone knows of a really great salvage place or wants to Trade a dyna 3000 for my stock ECU + some bucks email me. My experience with the dyna units on my other bikes is that unless you have some heavy mods they really aren't worth the money.

[fstsix]

Has anyone used the Iridium plugs with a supercharger. I have some in my spark plug box, was thinking about cleaning them and using them. The really don't have any miles on them.

Dan

I tired them, they would break up under heavy excel in 4th, i think these bikes work best on the NGK...the way i used to foul them out had to save money  Did you get your bike running better?  

[dreamaker]

Has anyone used the Iridium plugs with a supercharger. I have some in my spark plug box, was thinking about cleaning them and using them. The really don't have any miles on them.

Dan

I tired them, they would break up under heavy excel in 4th, i think these bikes work best on the NGK...the way i used to foul them out had to save money  Did you get your bike running better?  

I was just wondering how they held up under a boost. Back when, I had some NGK Iridium's with less then 500 miles on them just carboned up just sitting in a box.
Far as running,  at this point I guess OK. The idle turns heads. One thing is it seems the idle changes, what I mean is when I start it one time it will idle one way. Then when it starts an other time it will idle different.  These are cold starts. I check the plugs and doesn't seem to change from the last time I took pics. The electrode is a light beige. 
The thing that concerns me at this point is when I first start it, it is very reactive like a funny car. After I cruise several miles and it warms up, the gauge shows 180* and I whip the throttle the reaction is kind of lazy. I was thinking it had something to do with temp switch ECT.

Dan

[fstsix]

Has anyone used the Iridium plugs with a supercharger. I have some in my spark plug box, was thinking about cleaning them and using them. The really don't have any miles on them.

Dan

I tired them, they would break up under heavy excel in 4th, i think these bikes work best on the NGK...the way i used to foul them out had to save money  Did you get your bike running better?  

I was just wondering how they held up under a boost. Back when, I had some NGK Iridium's with less then 500 miles on them just carboned up just sitting in a box.
Far as running,  at this point I guess OK. The idle turns heads. One thing is it seems the idle changes, what I mean is when I start it one time it will idle one way. Then when it starts an other time it will idle different.  These are cold starts. I check the plugs and doesn't seem to change from the last time I took pics. The electrode is a light beige. 
The thing that concerns me at this point is when I first start it, it is very reactive like a funny car. After I cruise several miles and it warms up, the gauge shows 180* and I whip the throttle the reaction is kind of lazy. I was thinking it had something to do with temp switch ECT.

Dan

Did you do anything with the petcock yet?

[dreamaker]

Has anyone used the Iridium plugs with a supercharger. I have some in my spark plug box, was thinking about cleaning them and using them. The really don't have any miles on them.

Dan

I tired them, they would break up under heavy excel in 4th, i think these bikes work best on the NGK...the way i used to foul them out had to save money  Did you get your bike running better?  

I was just wondering how they held up under a boost. Back when, I had some NGK Iridium's with less then 500 miles on them just carboned up just sitting in a box.
Far as running,  at this point I guess OK. The idle turns heads. One thing is it seems the idle changes, what I mean is when I start it one time it will idle one way. Then when it starts an other time it will idle different.  These are cold starts. I check the plugs and doesn't seem to change from the last time I took pics. The electrode is a light beige. 
The thing that concerns me at this point is when I first start it, it is very reactive like a funny car. After I cruise several miles and it warms up, the gauge shows 180* and I whip the throttle the reaction is kind of lazy. I was thinking it had something to do with temp switch ECT.

Dan

Did you do anything with the petcock yet?

Well I am in the process of doing the modification, I had some parts left over from a petcock rebuild and using them. I JB Welded the parts but after I cut out the diaphragm center as per article I found that the o-ring part has shrunken. I guess I'll have to find some o-ring to replace the old ones  on the diaphragm.

Dan

[rdunbar123]

Took air filter off, ran like a scalded dog. Also talked to a mechanic a shop not connected with brands. He said that if you have a hesitation that happens at any rpm when you hit it hard could be the accelerator pump does not stay in long enough he said to try the no air filter first and if that works put the larger one on. If it helps some but still hesitates to back out the acceleator pump screw so that itdoesn't hit the stop as soon. He said he had a racing background. I am putting onthe larger filter and see if it still runs right.

[fstsix]

Took air filter off, ran like a scalded dog. Also talked to a mechanic a shop not connected with brands. He said that if you have a hesitation that happens at any rpm when you hit it hard could be the accelerator pump does not stay in long enough he said to try the no air filter first and if that works put the larger one on. If it helps some but still hesitates to back out the acceleator pump screw so that itdoesn't hit the stop as soon. He said he had a racing background. I am putting onthe larger filter and see if it still runs right.

Cool! just trying to follow you here, did you install the 27.5 slow jet?  and do you still have a hesitation?

[rdunbar123]

No, The jet is on order but I put the larger filter on and no hesitation. Idle is pretty good between 800 and 1100. I have learned not to blip the throttle at idle. I will read the plugs after a few miles and see if i need further adjustments.  I don't have as long of a piece between the filter and carb as you do but my filtr just barely fits. Ive seen bigger filters than the original on a 750. I did order the colortune and will try to use it and tell you how that worked out. Problably need to dyno at some point. would like to find a dyna 3000 at some point, It would save me from adding booster. The real stuff is fairly expensive.

[Murdoc]

Something is still not right with my install.  Plugs looked pretty lean so I installed the 27.5 slow and put the e-clip on the 2nd notch from the bottom to fatten it up a bit.  Better slow acceleration but really flat in the 4-5000 rpm range with the air cleaner off.  While I had the carb apart looked for anything plugged up and everything looks clear.  It has a 175 main jet in it and I assume a 97 needle, but couldn't see a mark on it to be sure.  Running the Dyna on curve 3 with the hobbs switch at (I think) 3#.  Ran with a friend on his IS and am not impressed with how it runs against a stock IS as they run about dead even, so it looks like I have quite a bit of work to do.  Roll on at 4000 RPM is about equal in 5th gear with a stock bike.  No snaps, crackles or pops, just real flat performance.  Just not sure where to go next.    Gonna see if they have any larger mains at the Harley dealer tomorrow and try a few more sizes up unless anyone else has suggestions?

[rdunbar123]

My bike shows no signs of hesitation but it is hard to tell how it runs vs stock. seems to accelerate very well butt dyno says 0-70 is better, but hard to tell after that. I have a stretch of road on the way to work that i can run flat out. I can get a dyno for 55 bucks with no tuning and if I want it dyno tuned both the metric and harley side have guys with racing backgrounds. I might just go for the dyno and compare it to stock. will report back.

[dreamaker]

Something is still not right with my install.  Plugs looked pretty lean so I installed the 27.5 slow and put the e-clip on the 2ND notch from the bottom to fatten it up a bit.  Better slow acceleration but really flat in the 4-5000 rpm range with the air cleaner off.  While I had the carb apart looked for anything plugged up and everything looks clear.  It has a 175 main jet in it and I assume a 97 needle, but couldn't see a mark on it to be sure.  Running the Dyna on curve 3 with the hobbs switch at (I think) 3#.  Ran with a friend on his IS and am not impressed with how it runs against a stock IS as they run about dead even, so it looks like I have quite a bit of work to do.  Roll on at 4000 RPM is about equal in 5th gear with a stock bike.  No snaps, crackles or pops, just real flat performance.  Just not sure where to go next.   Gonna see if they have any larger mains at the Harley dealer tomorrow and try a few more sizes up unless anyone else has suggestions?

I am assuming that you got your kit from Magna. (hard to keep track)  If so look close at the pic. of the needles I submitted. The top is 42mm #97 needle, the second is a 45mm stock #97 needle. The last one is a modified  Magna #97 needle for a 45mm. If you look close  you will see the difference of the location of the tapers start. Earlier we discussed moving the clip from the third to the second notch from the bottom. We were talking about the #95 needle not the Magna needle. When you went to the second notch was that on the #95 or was it the Magna needle. How does the plugs look now?  What filter setup did you finally end up with.  I am thinking about modifying my filter again, I don't what yet. On my bike I can definitely see the difference between stock and now.

Just for your info. when I quick twist my throttle it responds almost scary.  It has a sharp snap sound like you hear with high compression.

[Murdoc]

I got the kit from Bill at Magna last year, but didn't have a chance to install it until this year.  The carb came with a 97 needle, 25 slow and 175 main.  So far, I have just replaced the 25 slow with a 27.5 slow and moved the e-clip down 1 notch to the 2nd notch from the bottom.  I'm going to the Harley dealer today to see if they have any larger mains as the tuning manual says to run the bike at WOT for a few seconds and then back off to 7/8 throttle and see if you get a surge, which I do.  I think this indicates a lean condition from the instructions, but I may be misreading it.  When I pull the plugs, they are still light gray with the settings above and I think what we are after is a light tan to cocoa color on the tip... right?

[dreamaker]

Wow!!! I just about swallowed my tongue when I went to the gas station today. I checked my gas mileage and I was getting 16 miles to the gallon. I'm trying to figure out were the gas went. Did a few right hand twist but not many. I would think if I was using that much gas I could maybe smell gas and the plugs would be black.  How is everyone's mileage? I thought I was going to get mid 30s. I must be doing something wrong.

[fstsix]

Wow!!! I just about swallowed my tongue when I went to the gas station today. I checked my gas mileage and I was getting 16 miles to the gallon. I'm trying to figure out were the gas went. Did a few right hand twist but not many. I would think if I was using that much gas I could maybe smell gas and the plugs would be black.  How is everyone's mileage? I thought I was going to get mid 30s. I must be doing something wrong.

Something aint right, 30-36 mpg, what petcock did you install ?