Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 15, 2025, 07:12:08 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Clicking in front end after front wheel removal and re-install  (Read 2845 times)
Argon0639
Member
*****
Posts: 50


Maryland


« on: May 06, 2010, 09:15:06 PM »

Hey all!  It's been a long time since I posted anything on these boards, but I just recently got a new tire put on my front wheel.  I removed and re-installed the wheel myself.  Everything seems to spin freely and is centered properly and so forth, but when I took it for a test run, it seems that there is some kind of clicking sound coming from the left brake caliper or the speedo cable.  The speedo is functioning properly while moving.  Any ideas on what to check and how to fix it?  I followed all of the directions on the shop talk page for removal and install.  Thanks!
Logged
Steve K (IA)
Member
*****
Posts: 1662

Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2010, 10:52:16 PM »

Did you spin the wheel while it was on the jack?  Did you hear anything then?  I have a feeling that the axle isn't quite fully inserted into the left fork leg and what you are hearing is the rivets on the disc hitting the caliper.
Before mounting the calipers, tighten the axle and then lay a 2x4 against the left side.  Give it a whack with a rubber mallet making sure it is in as far as it will go and then tighten the pinch bolts on the left side.  Loosen the nut on the right side and re-tighten, tighten the pinch bolts on the right side.  Put the calipers on and pump up the brakes.  Give it a spin and then hit the front brake.  Do that a few times.  It works for me...YMMV  Smiley
Logged


States I Have Ridden In
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
Member
*****
Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2010, 09:05:19 AM »

I've found if you get the left end of the axle flush with the fork tube and then tighten the pinch bolts the caliper will clear the rivets on the rotor.
Logged
1FAST6
Member
*****
Posts: 164


Sanford, NC


« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2010, 12:33:07 PM »

There is a process to follow here.  First, pound the axel all the way into the left fork using a rubber hammer.  Then torque the pinch bolts on the left fork.  Next, torque the axel bolt on the right side.  Now let it off the jack, get on the bike, squeeze the front brake and pump the forks up and down several times (this seats the axel), now torque the right side pinch bolts and you're good to go!  You might want to jack her up and spin the wheel just to make sure all is as it should be.
Logged
Wildman
Member
*****
Posts: 111


« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2010, 01:07:11 PM »


assemble the parts don't tighten aything.
torque the axle nut.
If you have the rotor rivets hitting the caliper bracket the next step is the key.
Match the spacing on the left between the rotor rivets and the caliper bracket with the spacing on the right.
torque the pinch bolts.
For the clicking check the brake pad spring clips.
Logged
Wildman
Member
*****
Posts: 111


« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2010, 01:11:25 PM »

You match the spacing by moving the left leg on the axel.
Logged
BradValk48237
Member
*****
Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2010, 01:39:57 PM »

All,

 Just read this thread and I and also having a "buzzing" noise when I apply the Brakes.... Dosen't do this all the time, only when i apply the Brakes. Also a bit of a quiet howling when at sped. i thought it was just wind noise from the fairing. also a little growl when turning.... 
Could this be axle related? I had the bike off the ground because I thought the bearing might be bad, but its all nice and tight,no play that I could tell. I changed the brake fluid( was dark and brakes were a little mushy) and the wheel spun freely with no noise and just a hint of scuff from the brake pads. Took it for a ride yesterday and buzzing is still there when I apply the brakes, same with the "growl" I thought maybe the tire was cupping and causing teh "quiet growl"....this only happens when turning and is very light and almost unnoticable

So as soon as I send this , am going to check the pinch bolts..... loosen and re torque...

Should I loosen the axel and re torque it all?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Brad



Logged
Wildman
Member
*****
Posts: 111


« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2010, 02:54:16 PM »

The buzzing noise is the first sign that your brake pads need replacement.
they are worn past the grooves in the pads.
Logged
BradValk48237
Member
*****
Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2010, 03:05:04 PM »

Thanks....  they were ordered 2 days ago......


Logged
Argon0639
Member
*****
Posts: 50


Maryland


« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2010, 08:07:29 AM »

Based on what you guys have said, I am fairly certain that I have to pound that axle in a tiny bit further.  No problem since I have a lift.  I won't get a chance to fix it until Wed, but I will post a reply when I do.  Thanks for all the replies!
Logged
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2010, 09:09:28 AM »

Pounding anything on the front end is not the thing to do.

The axle bolt on the right side shock lower is sufficient to pull thing properly together.

You will find false security if you tighten the axle bolt without loosening the pinch bolts on the same, right side shock lower.  The pinch bolts need to be loose.

Using a striking tool to adjust, tighten, or align is not a good mechanical practice, generally speaking!

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Argon0639
Member
*****
Posts: 50


Maryland


« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2010, 05:16:08 PM »

Well, when I say pound, I am talking about a small non-marring deadblow mallet, not a sledge hammer lol!  I am really talking about more of a tapping than a pounding.  (That's what she said!)
Logged
Chili Pepper
Member
*****
Posts: 344


Michigan


« Reply #12 on: May 09, 2010, 05:38:06 PM »

 
Quote
Using a striking tool to adjust, tighten, or align is not a good mechanical practice, generally speaking!

Egads! And I thought percussive maintenance was a well-known alternative path to enlightenment  uglystupid2 2funny

Errr...well..I'm pretty strong for a 64" woman but I don't have the height and oomph to bounce a Valk up and down to seat the front axle. I use the tool provided in the emergency tool kit that came with the bike and put it on the axle bolt head, stick an adjustable wrench on it and turn it around and around while thumping firmly on the end with a rubber mallet. That pop/click/thump when the axle seats telegraphs thru the wrench...you can feel it. There's always an easier way to do things.

I'm just sayin'..... angel
Logged

sugerbear
Member
*****
Posts: 2419


wentzville mo


« Reply #13 on: May 09, 2010, 06:00:34 PM »

just remember,  never force it, just get a bigger hammer!! Cheesy Cheesy
Logged



Michvalk
Member
*****
Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #14 on: May 09, 2010, 06:42:00 PM »

If it can't be fixed with a hammer, the problem must be electrical cooldude
Logged
Steve K (IA)
Member
*****
Posts: 1662

Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #15 on: May 09, 2010, 07:48:26 PM »

If it can't be fixed with a hammer, the problem must be electrical cooldude

And as a last resort, there is always the handyman's secret weapon.  Duct Tape!  Cheesy
Logged


States I Have Ridden In
Garland
Member
*****
Posts: 451


#618

Hendersonville NC


« Reply #16 on: May 10, 2010, 07:22:12 AM »

The speedo cable may not be fully seated, I have also managed to deform the metal clip in the back of the brake caliper which can cause noise.
Logged
deadwood
Member
*****
Posts: 165

Albuquerque New Mexico


« Reply #17 on: May 10, 2010, 08:18:08 AM »

 Just read this thread and I and also having a "buzzing" noise when I apply the Brakes....


Interesting. I just replaced the front and rear tire and have noticed the same buzzing when applying the brakes. It doesn't matter it I apply the front or the rear brake, the slight buzzing it still there. The brake pads are new (2 months, 1000 miles)

I did all the right stuff in putting the front wheel back on as far as sequence of tightening pinch bolts etc but I still suspect something in the front axel.

Sounds like this is a fairly commen problem?
Logged

Skydive New Mexico Motorcycle Club, Touring Division.
1FAST6
Member
*****
Posts: 164


Sanford, NC


« Reply #18 on: May 10, 2010, 12:56:20 PM »

I noticed buzzing when I installed EBC pads on my rear last year.  Forgot to specify OEM only when I ordered.  They seemed to wear a little faster than OEM, but I had no other problems.  Replaced with OEM this spring and the buzzing stopped.
Logged
Argon0639
Member
*****
Posts: 50


Maryland


« Reply #19 on: May 19, 2010, 04:34:48 PM »

Ok, so I put the bike back up on the lift today and turns out that the axle wasn't quite in all the way.  The rivets on the left side disc (left side as you are sitting on the bike) were just barely rubbing the caliper.  When I fully inserted the axle it allowed the wheel to center properly.  I just had to tap it the extra 2 milimeters with a non-marring rubber mallet.  Then I re-tightened everything (in the proper order) and problem solved!  I put in a new battery for good measure because it was long overdue.  Thanks everyone for the help!
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: