Upper head bearing seal?

[redflash]

Howdy folks, how's the ridin? I just completed the BRoot's first head bearing replacement.  The bearing set from All Balls came with a top seal that wasn't present on the stocker. I added it because there was room for it and what the heck, can't hurt to have a seal up there too. Looks like it fits perfectly. Anyone else add it or leave it out? Comments? 61,000+ miles and she was pretty sloppy up front. Noticed it when I changed the front brake fluid then checked brake performance (what a difference!) I didn't have the top nut tool, so had to "best guess" the torque, but she seems SO much better now.

PS: Met Barnstormer a few Sundays ago, finally, and run into Tony frequently at work while he takes his lunchtime walk. Happy motoring!

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

I used the upper seal also. That was 1000 miles ago and all is still good.

[2qmedic]

Hey RedFlash,

I am going to R&R mine also on a I/S model. I have some wobble issues that are setting in around 100+ mph and this is the the most likely culprit. 
I've not done this before and was wondering what your experience was for this job and amount of time to complete.
Thanks for your thoughts
 

[redflash]

HI 2qmedic, sorry it took  a while to catch up with ya. Mine is an '03

standard, so a little less work, but 6 or 7 hours should be plenty of time.

I removed the handlebars as a unit, did not remove the controls, wiring or

mirrors even. DO remove the tank, even though the manual doesn't call for

it, it makes things much easier. I placed a 6" board on edge, on the back

end of the air cleaner to keep the handlebars pretty much upright. I let the

headlight bucket and driving lights hang, no problem. The upper race comes

out with a punch easily, but the lower one I caught the edge of with a stout

screwdriver at an angle, then drove from the top, down the inside of the

tube from a couple of spots on the race. Driving the new races in was a

piece of cake using a heavy hammer and piece of hardwood to start them, and

the old race to seat them. I had to take the lower tree to a shop to have

the bearing and old seal pressed off and new pressed on. Be sure to pack the

new bearing with good grease before hand. I use red synthetic marine bearing

grease, it lasts. Reassembly is pretty straightforward, but getting the

preload right is tricky if you don't have the Honda tool for the nut. I did

the old drive it with a hammer and punch till tight then swing the tree 5-10

times, loosen, swing, tighten again and swing again, then loosen and

retighten to the best of my ability to tell it's "right". Once the forks are

on you can tell if you did a good job of it. I'll see if I can get a picture or

two up sometime today or this evening.

I'd also like to say that some of the "harshness" after replacing the stock

fork springs last spring went away once I had new head bearings in,

huge difference!

[redflash]

Notice I left the gauges attached to the top clamp, no need to take them off, just set it a bit behind the head tube.  Brake calipers tied up to engine guard. The headlight is very light, no strain on the wires, same for the driving lights.  OH, and one note of interest, READJUST your headlight once you reinstall it, mine was off on the vertical plane after.