Spark Plugs?

[Farther]

So, Honda Owner's Link (www.ahm-ownerlink.com/) spec out traditional spark plugs as follows:

Cold Climate: NGK DPR6EA-9
Standard:  NGK DPR7EA-9
Extended High Speed: NGK DPR8EA-9

The NGK Iridium cross referenced models are as follows:
Standard: NGK DPR7EIX-9
Extended High Speed: NGK DPR8EIX-9

Since I am planning to ride my '03 Valkyrie Standard about 5,000 miles this summer I have installed the extended high speed NGK iridium models.  Anybody have experience with these extended high speed plugs or have some words of wisdom?  Do any of you folks on the long range Valkyrie Interstates use the extended high speed plugs?  

[Valkflyer]

I run the standard NGK, DPR7EA-9 8,000 miles between swaps.  I commute 80 miles nearly every day.  Weather temps range from low 40's - high 90's.  The thought of putting out that kind of money for six Iridium plugs when the NGK's work well is most likely something I will not do.

[Rio Wil]

IMHO using anything but the stock plug in this motorcycle is a waste of time and effort.  I changed my plugs (out of guilt) at 100K miles.  They still looked new, had sharp edges on the center electrode and the new plugs made absolutely no difference in idle quality or or high speed performance. The bike had no idle or at speed issues that motivated me to change them except as I mentioned .......guilt.  These engines are very easy on plugs, probably half my 100K is high speed highway driving in 35 to 110 degree weather....no issues with the stock plugs.

[9Ball]

agreed...the standard NGK have been good for me, and at a little over $2/each are a bargain.

[Wildman]

I'm right there with Rio Wil above.
I have tried other plugs but never felt any difference.
I've run E3's for the past 25 k  miles. No difference.
85 K miles total.

I'd say insepct them if they look great like mine always do, put the plugs back in and save your dollars.

[Chrisj CMA]

standard plugs bought at CAR parts places will save lots of $$ and why take them out at 8k miles......they will go for 60, 70 80K miles easy.  I try to remember to change them out after 50K or so if I dont get to it by 60K oh well, they always look like new and the new ones never make a difference.  I do index them, so once they are in I like to not worry about it for awhile

[Valkflyer]

   Insert Quote
standard plugs bought at CAR parts places will save lots of $$ and why take them out at 8k miles......they will go for 60, 70 80K miles easy.  I try to remember to change them out after 50K or so if I dont get to it by 60K oh well, they always look like new and the new ones never make a difference.


This kind of mileage takes me back,   I don't always go by the book but the Clymer's manual calls for the plugs to be replaced at 8k so I've pretty much, at least in this case, stuck with it because I thought they might be basing it on some other type of use issue that I'm not aware of.  If I'm wrong about that, and it appears that may be this case, you've saved me some $$$.  Thanks!!!  Would like to hear if others are doing as well????   ???

[Bone]

My 98 Tourer just turned 70k. I have put the last 50k on her checking the appearance and gap on the plugs twice a season. They looked so good I couldn't just toss them but did a month ago while chasing a sooty #6 plug. (Petcock diaphragm) I couldn't tell any difference with the new plugs

[Steve K (IA)]

I changed the plugs in my 2000 I/S when it reached 16,000 miles.  Couldn't tell them from new.  The bike has almost 54,000 miles and I probably won't bother with them until next year.  (I ride about 5000 miles a year) I will stick with the recommended NGK's.

[Farther]

Honda also recommended NGK DPR8EA-9 for extended high speed.  Is anybody using the Honda recommended NGK plugs for extended high speed operation?

[valkmc]

Honda also recommended NGK DPR8EA-9 for extended high speed.  Is anybody using the Honda recommended NGK plugs for extended high speed operation?

I don't see any reason to use them. I rode to Detroit last summer from Ocala Florida. I rode great two lanes most of the way up, but the rivets on my clutch started screwing up while I was riding around Michigan. I put her I-75 one morning at 5am and got off her just out side of Macon Ga. that evening. Ran her between 70 and 90 the whole way and when I got her home while I was doing the clutch I pulled the plugs to check them and they look like new still(about 40,000 miles on them).

If they cost more or you think you will neeed to change them for regular riding don't waste your $.

[Daniel Meyer]

I don't always go by the book but the Clymer's manual calls for the plugs to be replaced at 8k so I've pretty much, at least in this case, stuck with it because I thought they might be basing it on some other type of use issue that I'm not aware of.  If I'm wrong about that, and it appears that may be this case, you've saved me some $$$.  Thanks!!!  Would like to hear if others are doing as well????   ???

The reason for the short interval is that it's a nice steel plug into an aluminum head, and they need to be removed/replaced at an interval so they don't sieze up. Plugs can go bad even if the 'trodes look good, so I change 'em when I pull 'em rather than clean and put back.

I don't see any benefit in the big wampum $$ plugs though.

[Chrisj CMA]

I don't always go by the book but the Clymer's manual calls for the plugs to be replaced at 8k so I've pretty much, at least in this case, stuck with it because I thought they might be basing it on some other type of use issue that I'm not aware of.  If I'm wrong about that, and it appears that may be this case, you've saved me some $$$.  Thanks!!!  Would like to hear if others are doing as well????   ???

The reason for the short interval is that it's a nice steel plug into an aluminum head, and they need to be removed/replaced at an interval so they don't sieze up. Plugs can go bad even if the 'trodes look good, so I change 'em when I pull 'em rather than clean and put back.

I don't see any benefit in the big wampum $$ plugs though.

A light coat of anti sieze and you can check on them lil pups every 20K miles or so and they slide right out no problem

[98valk]

I don't always go by the book but the Clymer's manual calls for the plugs to be replaced at 8k so I've pretty much, at least in this case, stuck with it because I thought they might be basing it on some other type of use issue that I'm not aware of.  If I'm wrong about that, and it appears that may be this case, you've saved me some $$$.  Thanks!!!  Would like to hear if others are doing as well????   ???

The reason for the short interval is that it's a nice steel plug into an aluminum head, and they need to be removed/replaced at an interval so they don't sieze up. Plugs can go bad even if the 'trodes

agree, that's why I take ohm readings on every plug for a base line, same for plug wires.

[X Ring]

I don't always go by the book but the Clymer's manual calls for the plugs to be replaced at 8k so I've pretty much, at least in this case, stuck with it because I thought they might be basing it on some other type of use issue that I'm not aware of.  If I'm wrong about that, and it appears that may be this case, you've saved me some $$$.  Thanks!!!  Would like to hear if others are doing as well????   ???

The reason for the short interval is that it's a nice steel plug into an aluminum head, and they need to be removed/replaced at an interval so they don't sieze up. Plugs can go bad even if the 'trodes look good, so I change 'em when I pull 'em rather than clean and put back.

I don't see any benefit in the big wampum $$ plugs though.

A light coat of anti sieze and you can check on them lil pups every 20K miles or so and they slide right out no problem

Copper based not nickel based anti-seize

Marty

[Chrisj CMA]

Hey Marty..........whatever is in the tube copper, nickel......I have no clue, I just know that for over 100K miles its working like a champ on all the pesky tightening things that I have used it on.  PERMETEX in the grey tube.....I looked, cant see where it specifies whats in it..........oh well it works

[Ricky-D]

Anti seize on the plugs,,,, every time,,,, without fail!

***

[X Ring]

Hey Marty..........whatever is in the tube copper, nickel......I have no clue, I just know that for over 100K miles its working like a champ on all the pesky tightening things that I have used it on.  PERMETEX in the grey tube.....I looked, cant see where it specifies whats in it..........oh well it works

Copper based is gold colored and will conduct electricity.  Nickel based is silver colored and will not.  If you got it at the parts store it is most likely copper based.  Considering how much of our fasteners are exposed to weather, I buy it by the jar.

Marty

[98valk]

Hey Marty..........whatever is in the tube copper, nickel......I have no clue, I just know that for over 100K miles its working like a champ on all the pesky tightening things that I have used it on.  PERMETEX in the grey tube.....I looked, cant see where it specifies whats in it..........oh well it works

copper is higher temp and has a copper color. would be better for an air cooled engine.
nickel is lower temp than copper and has a silver color.
ohm resistance is slightly lower with copper but difference not needed for spark plugs.
I have used nickel type for yrs, no problems.
and then there is the high temp black/graphite type used for oxygen sensors.

ok so did I start a "the best anti-seize to use" war?  

[Chrisj CMA]

OK, mine is nickel then because its greyish silver, but it works on everything.  I never knew it was based on a metal nor that there were other metals to choose from.  I use this silver grey stuff on the spark plugs, the alternator bolts, the rear brake caliper locking pin and the right side lower shock bolt.........never let me down yet after 8 years

[Wildman]

It's great for exhaust uts & bolts also.

[Valkflyer]

ok so did I start a "the best anti-seize to use" war?   


Good feedback, might as well through in my two cents.......Arm Pit Juice :    

[Rio Wil]

Just want to add, zinc is used in a anti seize also and it is silver.......so now we gotta get to the bottom of how to tell whether its zinc or nickel...I'm sure its very important to your torque wrench..  Speaking of torque wrenches, keep in mind when you slather fasteners up with anti-seize and torque it to the "specified" value, you probably just exceeded that value by 50 %!, thats a swag, but you get the idea.  So, easy on those spark plug round trips every 5-8K miles, easy enough to destroy the threads by over tightening.

[Chrisj CMA]

Just want to add, zinc is used in a anti seize also and it is silver.......so now we gotta get to the bottom of how to tell whether its zinc or nickel...I'm sure its very important to your torque wrench..  Speaking of torque wrenches, keep in mind when you slather fasteners up with anti-seize and torque it to the "specified" value, you probably just exceeded that value by 50 %!, thats a swag, but you get the idea.  So, easy on those spark plug round trips every 5-8K miles, easy enough to destroy the threads by over tightening.

spark plugs tightening procedure:  18mm deep socket and short extension NO HANDLE.....with a film of antiseize they spin into the threads like butter......when it hits bottom I attach the handle and turn it a nudge more....like 1/8 of a turn or less....probably less torque than header nuts (the other fastener I never use a torque wrench on)  This procedure has done me well on six motorcycles over the last 35 years........I think its working

[Farther]

Is there graphite in the antisieze too?

[Madmike]

Just want to add, zinc is used in a anti seize also and it is silver.......so now we gotta get to the bottom of how to tell whether its zinc or nickel...I'm sure its very important to your torque wrench..  Speaking of torque wrenches, keep in mind when you slather fasteners up with anti-seize and torque it to the "specified" value, you probably just exceeded that value by 50 %!, thats a swag, but you get the idea.  So, easy on those spark plug round trips every 5-8K miles, easy enough to destroy the threads by over tightening.

I've seen aluminum, nickle and copper...... but there are lots more kinds and they all have different lubricating characteristics ....we always use nickle around gas because it can be very acidic........